9 days on El Salvador-albergues?

[alaskadiver]

Are there enough albergues (or pensiones, hostels, etc) on the El Salvador to facilitate a 9 day itinerary? I have Ender's 2016 guide that has a 9 day stage option but I'm wondering what the reality on the ground is. Are the albergues and other accommodations listed in the guide still relatively accurate?

I will also gladly take any suggestions for a 2 week section elsewhere. Language is not a problem and no need to end in Santiago.

 

[alaskadiver]

Is there an updated version of the 2016 guide? I haven’t been able to find one.

 

[Kiwi-family]

The nine days Ender suggests are viable. If it were me going at that rate thought I'd need to take a good book, some sketching materials and a pair of socks to knit, because the stages are very short. However, the landscape is beautiful and so it would not be a problem to sit looking at the mountains with some handwork (if it's not raining!)

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@alaskadiver, Nice to see you are dreaming/preparing for another Camino. If language is no problem and since you are a seasoned hiker, the more unusual and obscure routes in Spain are your oyster! I'm sure you will get other good suggestions from some of the Camino gurus around here!

 

[peregrina2000]

I have no reason to think that the listings are out of date -- I know that foroum members have used the guide recently and no one has sent me any info for updates or corrections. Ender has turned his primary attention to the Olvidado, but I'm sure he would be happy to incorporate changes if people send them on to me or him.

I do know of one change -- the former parador that was closed at the puerto/pass of Pajares has begun a renovation and re-opening project. Apparently the bar is now open, but I would hate to see that it takes away too much business of the longtime bar on the other side of the street!

As far as two week sections go, happy to suggest some others if you tell me distances and type of terrain you like -- lots of the less traveled caminos are in the south where temps may be too hot for your liking and the distances longer than what your average would be in 9 days on the Salvador.

The Camino Catalan from Llanca to Montserrat is one gorgeous northern option. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-cami-st-jaume-from-llançà-to-montserrat.36051/
The Olvidado from Aguilar de Campoo to Ponferrada would work.https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...dado-viejo-camino-camino-de-la-montaña.28456/
The Invierno is a great choice. (forum guide in Resources section)
Parts of the Castellano-Aragonés could work too.
How about the ARagonés starting further back in France before Somport to make it two weeks?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Laurie, I knew you'd be one of her best resources for other options and as usual you never disappoint!

 

[alaskadiver]

The nine days Ender suggests are viable. If it were me going at that rate thought I'd need to take a good book, some sketching materials and a pair of socks to knit, because the stages are very short. However, the landscape is beautiful and so it would not be a problem to sit looking at the mountains with some handwork (if it's not raining!)

Well, I'm not going to make you walk this Camino so no need to worry

I enjoy photography and talking with the locals. I'm not interesting in rushing through 30 km days when I have the luxury of slow travel.

 

[alaskadiver]

I have no reason to think that the listings are out of date -- I know that foroum members have used the guide recently and no one has sent me any info for updates or corrections. Ender has turned his primary attention to the Olvidado, but I'm sure he would be happy to incorporate changes if people send them on to me or him.

I do know of one change -- the former parador that was closed at the puerto/pass of Pajares has begun a renovation and re-opening project. Apparently the bar is now open, but I would hate to see that it takes away too much business of the longtime bar on the other side of the street!

As far as two week sections go, happy to suggest some others if you tell me distances and type of terrain you like -- lots of the less traveled caminos are in the south where temps may be too hot for your liking and the distances longer than what your average would be in 9 days on the Salvador.

The Camino Catalan from Llanca to Montserrat is one gorgeous northern option. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/my-cami-st-jaume-from-llançà-to-montserrat.36051/
The Olvidado from Aguilar de Campoo to Ponferrada would work.https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...dado-viejo-camino-camino-de-la-montaña.28456/
The Invierno is a great choice. (forum guide in Resources section)
Parts of the Castellano-Aragonés could work too.
How about the ARagonés starting further back in France before Somport to make it two weeks?

Thank you for the helpful answer Laurie. Like Chris said, you can always be counted on for good information without judgment . I am looking at the Invierno, The Ingles-Finisterre, and I will look at the other ones you mentioned too. I like walks that don't have a ton of people. Looking for something without days walking on hard surfaces, and yes, no hot weather. I've spent several weeks in Andalucia and while I love the area, it's just way too hot for us. A Camino that uses a GR route would be great. We'd like to to no more than 20km days with a preference for 18km. I find no enjoyment in 25 or 30km days. I want a nice leisurely pace with plenty of time to explore the towns and talk with the locals.

 

[Kiwi-family]

Well, I'm not going to make you walk this Camino so no need to worry

I enjoy photography and talking with the locals. I'm not interesting in rushing through 30 km days when I have the luxury of slow travel.

Aha - so I’d take a sketchbook and you’ll take your camera. I wasn’t meaning that you shouldn’t do it - just pointing out that the distances between accomodations are short and because it’s a quiet route there may not be anyone to chat with. The route is spectacular - both wide vistas and at a macro level; a wonderful place to wander with camera.
Please accept my apologies if I came across as judging your intentions. I certainly did not mean to, and while I do enjoy long days, I would actually happily do short ones to be able to spend time sketching too (exactly what I’m planning for my upcoming Madrid walk)

 

[alaskadiver]

Aha - so I’d take a sketchbook and you’ll take your camera. I wasn’t meaning that you shouldn’t do it - just pointing out that the distances between accomodations are short and because it’s a quiet route there may not be anyone to chat with. The route is spectacular - both wide vistas and at a macro level; a wonderful place to wander with camera.
Please accept my apologies if I came across as judging your intentions. I certainly did not mean to, and while I do enjoy long days, I would actually happily do short ones to be able to spend time sketching too (exactly what I’m planning for my upcoming Madrid walk)

It's all good. I've never been a fast walker and even less so now that I discovered that I am prone to plantar fasciitis and even got a (temporary) Morton's neuroma during my Camino last year. I can walk for days in the backcountry, but throw me on hard surfaces and apparently I fall apart . At least I don't get blisters or have knee problems.

My husband, and possibly a very close friend, would be coming with me so I'll always have someone to talk with. But I've been know to take an hour trying to get the "right" photograph of a particular landscape. I'd never make any progress if I could sketch!

 

[peregrina2000]

Thank you for the helpful answer Laurie. Like Chris said, you can always be counted on for good information without judgment . I am looking at the Invierno, The Ingles-Finisterre, and I will look at the other ones you mentioned too. I like walks that don't have a ton of people. Looking for something without days walking on hard surfaces, and yes, no hot weather. I've spent several weeks in Andalucia and while I love the area, it's just way too hot for us. A Camino that uses a GR route would be great. We'd like to to no more than 20km days with a preference for 18km. I find no enjoyment in 25 or 30km days. I want a nice leisurely pace with plenty of time to explore the towns and talk with the locals.

The Aragonés is really a beautiful camino, you could start a few days back in France and end in Puente la Reina. Great albergues, some of the absolute best if you are an albergue person. And very little asphalt if memory serves. But the Invierno is one of my favorites. I think you could find stages to fit your walking style, and I would be happy to help you with that. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Kiwi-family]

@alaskadiver do you have any hints on how to take time for photography when travelling with others? I am struggling with sketching on the go when I want to take longer than hubby who sees a scene and captures a book-worthy photo in seconds and the kids who are also drawing but much quicker than me.
We are still trying to find our together groove! Maybe you can help.
So far I’ve come up with:
* communicate!
* learn to paint faster
* be satisfied with less than perfect
* come back later if possible (this pic was drawn in pencil and got one quick wash of colour while hubby scooted round with camera and kids were doing their drawings....then we returned to the same spot to eat lunch and I added some more paint and ink - although obviously the light was all different four hours later!)
* other times there is only a three minute window and I find it a bit disappointing art-wise, but still happy to have captured a memory:


I don’t like rushing and I don’t like keeping others waiting so I’m not sure how to combine painting and other people!
How do you do it?

 

[alaskadiver]

@alaskadiver do you have any hints on how to take time for photography when travelling with others? I am struggling with sketching on the go when I want to take longer than hubby who sees a scene and captures a book-worthy photo in seconds and the kids who are also drawing but much quicker than me.
We are still trying to find our together groove! Maybe you can help.
So far I’ve come up with:
* communicate!
* learn to paint faster
* be satisfied with less than perfect
* come back later if possible (this pic was drawn in pencil and got one quick wash of colour while hubby scooted round with camera and kids were doing their drawings....then we returned to the same spot to eat lunch and I added some more paint and ink - although obviously the light was all different four hours later!) View attachment 43258
* other times there is only a three minute window and I find it a bit disappointing art-wise, but still happy to have captured a memory:
View attachment 43259

I don’t like rushing and I don’t like keeping others waiting so I’m not sure how to combine painting and other people!
How do you do it?

My husband is very patient and really doesn't mind just pulling up a piece of grass and chilling out while I do my thing. But even he has his limits and if I take too much time he will remind me of the time. It's impossible to take the time the I need when there is someone else with us. So I try to compose quickly and then take a few shots. Even a rushed photo is better than no photo I can't imagine how hard it is for artists. You can only sketch so fast.
Very lovely sketches, btw. I can barely draw a stick person.
I actually don't plan to take my DSLR on next year's Camino. I can take pretty good photos on my iPhone 7 Plus and I will just get frustrated carry a heavy camera that I won't really be able to use to its fullest potential. I can live with that. Plus it will keep me from walking slow

 

[alaskadiver]

The Aragonés is really a beautiful camino, you could start a few days back in France and end in Puente la Reina. Great albergues, some of the absolute best if you are an albergue person. And very little asphalt if memory serves. But the Invierno is one of my favorites. I think you could find stages to fit your walking style, and I would be happy to help you with that. Buen camino, Laurie

I like the Invierno. I do like albergues and we don't mind doing a combo of accommodations. I will take a closer look at the Aragones. I also have to take into consideration how much time it takes to get to the starting point from Alaska. Just getting to Madrid uses up 2 days plus a day to sleep and recover from 24 hours of traveling. Same on the return.

Thanks!

 

[ritaj]

Are there enough albergues (or pensiones, hostels, etc) on the El Salvador to facilitate a 9 day itinerary? I have Ender's 2016 guide that has a 9 day stage option but I'm wondering what the reality on the ground is. Are the albergues and other accommodations listed in the guide still relatively accurate?

I will also gladly take any suggestions for a 2 week section elsewhere. Language is not a problem and no need to end in Santiago.

Alaska diver -- check out my 9 day posting "Older People on the Salvador" from last fall. You don't have to be older to enjoy a more relaxed Camino with time for photos, reading, checking out the towns, getting to know people (etc. etc.). We loved our shorter days.

 

[malingerer]

Alaska diver -- check out my 9 day posting "Older People on the Salvador" from last fall. You don't have to be older to enjoy a more relaxed Camino with time for photos, reading, checking out the towns, getting to know people (etc. etc.). We loved our shorter days.

cant find your Older people posting and would love to as the distances quoted as "short" by those with legs of oak and lungs of brass have me reaching for the smelling salts! Am quite prepared to use hotels, pensions, etc and catch buses, taxis, mule trains as long as it takes my carcass another few miles and not on a stretcher! Steroid injections haven't worked on pain in spine and hips so am waiting for x rays and another consultation to see what is realistic for me! My pedometer told me yesterday I had smashed my previous record and had done 8kms! Hope for me yet, eh?

yours aye,

The malingerer.

 

[Former member 49149]

cant find your Older people posting and would love to as the distances quoted as "short" by those with legs of oak and lungs of brass have me reaching for the smelling salts! Am quite prepared to use hotels, pensions, etc and catch buses, taxis, mule trains as long as it takes my carcass another few miles and not on a stretcher! Steroid injections haven't worked on pain in spine and hips so am waiting for x rays and another consultation to see what is realistic for me! My pedometer told me yesterday I had smashed my previous record and had done 8kms! Hope for me yet, eh?

yours aye,

The malingerer.

Older pilgrims on the Salvador should be the one you want. Just set off!

 

[CdnDreamer]

3 Canadians just walked the Salvador on the 9 day timetable. We found that the guide was very good. We stayed mostly in the albergues. In Cabanillas we were alone. La Robla was almost full. Buiza we had one other person stay with us. Poladura filled up. Since we were walking a full stage the next day, we booked a room in Pajares as we did not want a bed race. Benduenos was full the night we were there. Pola de Lena did not fill up. We booked a hotel in Mieres and in Oviedo.

The first 3 days were difficult for us. We were walking for most of the day to finish these short sections. Then it began to rain, and the trail got much harder when it was mud. Most of the days we were walking from 8 am to 4 pm or later. The trail had trees down, and was washed out in places and we had streams to cross. The old Roman roads were hard to walk on with mud and water rushing down them. We understand that the government is going to go in and clear up the trail. Even though it was difficult, it was a great trip and we were all glad that we had walked the Salvador. The views were breathtaking.

The guide was very accurate. The phone numbers worked and we were able to book our dinners in advance. We actually met "Ender", the writer of the guide at the albergue in Poladura.

If you have any questions, please ask. My experience of the trail will be different than yours, as I am from Toronto and have no experience walking in mountains. I kept my pack weight down to under 10 pounds, knowing that I was going to be climbing mountains. I think we were all surprised at how steep some of the sections were, and how narrow some of the paths were. But people who were walking at the same time as us were not finding it that difficult. One young woman came to Benduenos from Poladura, walking 40 km by herself, but she said she had been walking in mountains all her life.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks for this great update. The most surprising thing I read was:

Benduenos was full the night we were there.

I was alone when I slept there, and remember thinking -- WHY don't more people stay here! Glad to hear it seems to have caught on, it was an amazing place. I don't know if you got inside the church, but there are some 19th century paintings in the room behind the altar that seem to show what look like Afro-Cuban or Brazilian women dancing. The paintings are in terrible shape, in great need of restoration, but I fear the €€€€ are not there.

Did you by any chance take the direct route from Bendueños to Campomanes that doesn't backtrack through Herías?

 

[CdnDreamer]

No the road was just a huge mud puddle so we decided to go back to Herias to see if the trail was any better. The going up from Herias wasn't too bad but It was really hard walking down the hill in the mud.

 

[Dsavid Keyte]

Are there enough albergues (or pensiones, hostels, etc) on the El Salvador to facilitate a 9 day itinerary? I have Ender's 2016 guide that has a 9 day stage option but I'm wondering what the reality on the ground is. Are the albergues and other accommodations listed in the guide still relatively accurate?

I will also gladly take any suggestions for a 2 week section elsewhere. Language is not a problem and no need to end in Santiago.

The León part of the San Salvador is a little sparse when it comes to Albergues, while in Asturias there are more, realistically the walk takes around 5 days, we did it in 2015. things may have changed.

 

[jpflavin1]

Are there enough albergues (or pensiones, hostels, etc) on the El Salvador to facilitate a 9 day itinerary? I have Ender's 2016 guide that has a 9 day stage option but I'm wondering what the reality on the ground is. Are the albergues and other accommodations listed in the guide still relatively accurate?

I will also gladly take any suggestions for a 2 week section elsewhere. Language is not a problem and no need to end in Santiago.

Camino Madrid is a good 2 week walk.

 

[alaskadiver]

Ol

Camino Madrid is a good 2 week walk.

Old thread from 1 year ago. We leave in a month for the Camino de Invierno.

 

[IngridF]

Hi

3 Canadians just walked the Salvador on the 9 day timetable. We found that the guide was very good. We stayed mostly in the albergues. In Cabanillas we were alone. La Robla was almost full. Buiza we had one other person stay with us. Poladura filled up. Since we were walking a full stage the next day, we booked a room in Pajares as we did not want a bed race. Benduenos was full the night we were there. Pola de Lena did not fill up. We booked a hotel in Mieres and in Oviedo.

The first 3 days were difficult for us. We were walking for most of the day to finish these short sections. Then it began to rain, and the trail got much harder when it was mud. Most of the days we were walking from 8 am to 4 pm or later. The trail had trees down, and was washed out in places and we had streams to cross. The old Roman roads were hard to walk on with mud and water rushing down them. We understand that the government is going to go in and clear up the trail. Even though it was difficult, it was a great trip and we were all glad that we had walked the Salvador. The views were breathtaking.

The guide was very accurate. The phone numbers worked and we were able to book our dinners in advance. We actually met "Ender", the writer of the guide at the albergue in Poladura.

If you have any questions, please ask. My experience of the trail will be different than yours, as I am from Toronto and have no experience walking in mountains. I kept my pack weight down to under 10 pounds, knowing that I was going to be climbing mountains. I think we were all surprised at how steep some of the sections were, and how narrow some of the paths were. But people who were walking at the same time as us were not finding it that difficult. One young woman came to Benduenos from Poladura, walking 40 km by herself, but she said she had been walking in mountains all her life.

Ingrid here. I lost Enders guide info. As a fellow Torontonian is it possible to ger your info. Am currently hospi in Sahagun. Thinking of going on San Salvador tx

 

[CdnDreamer]

The Enders Guide is on the forum in the Resources Section. I hope this is the correct link https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/camino-del-salvador-guide-in-english.590/