Conquering the Challenges of the 14-day Camiño Dos Faros

[fenix]

After my 14-day Camino Invierno in the second half of this May, I am going to walk a 14-day Camiño Dos Faros.

I attempted this camino before, in 2018 after a Portuguese Camino. I had a 9-day itinerary. I got completely washed out by the weather unfortunately. I did it from end to end - but with lots of taxi jumps and skips and cheats.

The official association website is very pollyanna in its descriptions. So fair warning, this is actually a very, very difficult way, even in good weather. It is difficult everyday, lots of up & down, and is downright dangerous in a few spots.

Also warning - cheap lodging is sparse. Booking ahead is highly recommended. This is not a "traditional" camino with pilgrim infrastructure.

But it is - and I can't understate this - spectacular!

I hope to have better weather on this attempt. I am also hedging my bets with a 14-day itinerary, backpack transport, and hopefully, a walking partner.

I built my itinerary with the association website as a starting place. You can see it here if you are interested (second tab): My Obsessive Planning Google Doc for 2023 Camino dos Faros (2nd tab)

It is still a work in progress, so I welcome any questions, comments, and advice!

I also intend to walk back to Santiago from Fisterra to make it "official".

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@fenix, although I have never really considered this route, your words have definitely scared me off. My two sons have walked the final sections from Muxia to Finesterre, but told me no hair raising stories.

If you want spectacular coastal scenery with cliffs overlooking beautiful bays, but without danger and less bad weather, head south to the Fisherman's Trail on the Rota Vicentina in Portugal. It is gorgeous, but very doable. I walked it in late April 2019 with very mild weather in about 7-10 days. (I'm not home to view my notes.) @jungleboy has walked it and will have more info if you are interested.
Here is one of my posts where I added several pictures, which may whet your appetite.

EDIT- From Lisbon you can take a bus to Porto Covo, which is where I started, then at the end in Sagres, take another bus back up to Lisbon or continue to Porto; not difficult connections.
Post in thread 'Great accommodation? - Fisherman's Trail' https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...ommodation-fishermans-trail.72816/post-988625

 

[fenix]

Oh my goodness, I didn't mean to scare anyone off of it! I just don't think the association website paints a realistic picture because they are (rightfully) very passionate about the route. But one should always be aware of what they're taking on.

What makes this coastal route so stunning - and hair-raising sometimes - is that it literally hugs the rugged coast. It's not a slightly inland hill walk with nice sea views. The Camino Santiago way between Muxia and Fisterra is gentler than the Faros way between them. That's probably what your boys walked.

Due to the weather, I walked more of the Santiago way of those sections previously.

Thank you for the wonderful route suggestion. I love Portugal - and the coast. I'll definitely check this out!

 

[fenix]

@fenix, although I have never really considered this route, your words have definitely scared me off. My two sons have walked the final sections from Muxia to Finesterre, but told me no hair raising stories.

If you want spectacular coastal scenery with cliffs overlooking beautiful bays, but without danger and less bad weather, head south to the Fisherman's Trail on the Rota Vicentina in Portugal. It is gorgeous, but very doable. I walked it in late April 2019 with very mild weather in about 7-10 days. (I'm not home to view my notes.) @jungleboy has walked it and will have more info if you are interested.
Here is one of my posts where I added several pictures, which may whet your appetite.

Yeah, they definitely whet my appetite! I see the green & blue flashes are the trail markers? Is the Vicentina an official GR?

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Yeah, they definitely whet my appetite! I see the green & blue flashes are the trail markers? Is the Vicentina an official GR?

Yes, the blue/green are the official trail markers. Here is a red and yellow one are added on to it, so I'm not sure if it's a GR path, but never investigated...very colorful when combined.

 

[fenix]

Yes, the blue/green are the official trail markers. Here is a red and yellow one are added on to it, so I'm not sure if it's a GR path, but never investigated...very colorful when combined.View attachment 139556

Pretty!
Yeah, I have a love/hate with GR's. I did a section of GR 10 on the French-Spanish border before starting my northern Camino in 2015. It was a spectacular beast. My heart always twitches with fear a bit when I see GR markings coincide with a Camino.

I'm convinced the unofficial motto of the GR system is "Why go around when you can go over?"

The Faros Camino could be a GR, personality- wise.

 

[fenix]

QUESTION:

Has anyone used backpack transport on the Faros? Do you have any contact info?

 

[pinkwadingbird]

Short answer- kind of. Back in 2018 I had some time left after finishing the VDLP. I arranged with Traci Saunders of Little Fox Retreat House a 3-day itinerary on the Camino dos Faros. Each morning she would drive me to the starting point for the days stage and pick me up at the end returning me to stay the night at LFRH. Since her place was my home base I only had to carry a daypack each day. Don't know if she's still doing this sort of thing. I do remember that because of the driving distance involved she would only do that sort of thing for 3-4 stages but it's better than nothing. If she's not doing this anymore she might know someone who is. And yes, it's a spectacular route with an interesting history but not for the faint of heart.

 

[fenix]

Short answer- kind of. Back in 2018 I had some time left after finishing the VDLP. I arranged with Traci Saunders of Little Fox Retreat House a 3-day itinerary on the Camino dos Faros. Each morning she would drive me to the starting point for the days stage and pick me up at the end returning me to stay the night at LFRH. Since her place was my home base I only had to carry a daypack each day. Don't know if she's still doing this sort of thing. I do remember that because of the driving distance involved she would only do that sort of thing for 3-4 stages but it's better than nothing. If she's not doing this anymore she might know someone who is. And yes, it's a spectacular route with an interesting history but not for the faint of heart.

I stayed with Traci at LFH in 2017, and she took me on some driving tours, including the English Cemetery. I should reach out to her. I have heard that LFH moved elsewhere fairly recently? She was having real problems with the neighbors in the original village - something about a garden dispute. Not sure where she is now?

 

[BombayBill]

After my 14-day Camino Invierno in the second half of this May, I am going to walk a 14-day Camiño Dos Faros.

I attempted this camino before, in 2018 after a Portuguese Camino. I had a 9-day itinerary. I got completely washed out by the weather unfortunately. I did it from end to end - but with lots of taxi jumps and skips and cheats.

The official association website is very pollyanna in its descriptions. So fair warning, this is actually a very, very difficult way, even in good weather. It is difficult everyday, lots of up & down, and is downright dangerous in a few spots.

Also warning - cheap lodging is sparse. Booking ahead is highly recommended. This is not a "traditional" camino with pilgrim infrastructure.

But it is - and I can't understate this - spectacular!

I hope to have better weather on this attempt. I am also hedging my bets with a 14-day itinerary, backpack transport, and hopefully, a walking partner.

I built my itinerary with the association website as a starting place. You can see it here if you are interested (second tab): My Obsessive Planning Google Doc for 2023 Camino dos Faros (2nd tab)

It is still a work in progress, so I welcome any questions, comments, and advice!

I also intend to walk back to Santiago from Fisterra to make it "official".

Please keep updating your progress on this route. I may try it in September 23

 

[Snoopy99]

Please keep updating your progress on this route. I may try it in September 23

I also start on September 23rd and am very excited about this Camino dos Faros.