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a bit nervy/unsure about the del Salvador

phildimashq

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CP coastal then central then spiritual June 22
Hi folks,

I did my first camino in June this year (Porto to SdC with several detours) and got a lot of great advice off this forum.

Then I had the serious blues on my return, and felt I hadn’t finished walking. It was kinda like I was just getting going in the second week and when I got to SdC I felt I had a lot of miles left in me.

So I’m planning to go back at the end of this month and do a longer walk.

Unfortunately, I don’t have the days to do the whole Camino Frances and I’d rather save that until I have the time to walk the whole route in one trip.


I’m a big fan of mountains and do a lot of hiking at home in Ireland, which brings me to the Caminos del Salvador and Primitivo.

I can have 3+ weeks of actual walking and think this is enough to do both caminos (and maybe continue to Finisterre).

I have done a fair bit of research and read the latest version of Ender’s guide and Elle Bieling’s blog from 2020 as well as scouring the forum here for information.

However, I’m a bit nervy/unsure about the San Salvador camino and am looking for some guidance/reassurance from the good folks on this forum.


So here’s what’s playing on my mind.


I understand that accommodation is quite spread out in places and also that there are certain stages where the availability of food may be very limited.

I only have a few very basic phrases of Spanish so won’t be able to call ahead to ensure an albergue is open, or even to check if they can provide a meal.

I do enjoy walking alone, but am also quite a social person so am also a little worried this route might be too much solo – especially with the language barrier.


My aim is to do the San Salvador in 6 (or even 7) stages, which should still leave me plenty of time for the Primitivo.

So I’m hoping someone can advise me of a potential itinerary where I don’t really need worry or can minimise the worry about places being open and where I’m going to eat.


Thanks a million,


Phil
 
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Tincatinker

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2012
@phildimashq sounds to me like you’ll be fine. You’ve a month to work out some basic Spanish to cover abrir/ comer and a few other useful questions or just to find a translation app and download Watsapp.
The only issue I can see, though I’ll stand to be corrected, is stretching a 5 day Camino to 7 days though I’m sure someone can.
My inclination would be to plan extra days in Oviedo
 

BombayBill

Still Learning
Time of past OR future Camino
September 2022 Salvador Primitivo
Hi Phil I’m on the Salvador right now. I only met one other person to walk with. He speaks 5 languages so he is quite helpful. However by using Google Translate or by asking someone’s help I was able to book ahead everyday. I carried only a few power bars and peanuts as extra food. I ate double helpings of tortilla patata in every cafe. I booked into accommodations that provided food. Like Bar Mundo, Posada Embrujo, Albergue Cascoxu. I used Wise Pilgrim Salvador app for route finding though in general it’s well marked. I took my time and am on the 6 day plan.

See https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...vo-end-aug-september-2022.76560/#post-1064088
I will update the above thread when I reach Oviedo.

The first 3 days are strenuous. However, in my late 60s , I’m used to mountain walking and am comfortable with the Camino ways. Now in very early September there are no other pilgrims but this may change. Feel free to ask me questions.
 
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Beeman

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Primitivo,2017,Argonne and salvador,sept.2019
I did the Salvador in 2019 and loved it. I love mountains and enjoyed it. Especially Pajares. I was 75,know little Spanish and had no troubles. If I did it today I would stay in the first town,walk past LA Robla to the next village. I did the primitivo in 2017 and had no trouble. Give it a try
 
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Carl Remarx

Walking where you’re not
Time of past OR future Camino
Planning a a Camino de Carlos
Hi folks,

I did my first camino in June this year (Porto to SdC with several detours) and got a lot of great advice off this forum.

Then I had the serious blues on my return, and felt I hadn’t finished walking. It was kinda like I was just getting going in the second week and when I got to SdC I felt I had a lot of miles left in me.

So I’m planning to go back at the end of this month and do a longer walk.

Unfortunately, I don’t have the days to do the whole Camino Frances and I’d rather save that until I have the time to walk the whole route in one trip.


I’m a big fan of mountains and do a lot of hiking at home in Ireland, which brings me to the Caminos del Salvador and Primitivo.

I can have 3+ weeks of actual walking and think this is enough to do both caminos (and maybe continue to Finisterre).

I have done a fair bit of research and read the latest version of Ender’s guide and Elle Bieling’s blog from 2020 as well as scouring the forum here for information.

However, I’m a bit nervy/unsure about the San Salvador camino and am looking for some guidance/reassurance from the good folks on this forum.


So here’s what’s playing on my mind.


I understand that accommodation is quite spread out in places and also that there are certain stages where the availability of food may be very limited.

I only have a few very basic phrases of Spanish so won’t be able to call ahead to ensure an albergue is open, or even to check if they can provide a meal.

I do enjoy walking alone, but am also quite a social person so am also a little worried this route might be too much solo – especially with the language barrier.


My aim is to do the San Salvador in 6 (or even 7) stages, which should still leave me plenty of time for the Primitivo.

So I’m hoping someone can advise me of a potential itinerary where I don’t really need worry or can minimise the worry about places being open and where I’m going to eat.


Thanks a million,


Phil
This may be useful:
 
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akmcewan

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2016 CF from St.Jean
2019 CP from Lisbon
2022
Hi folks,

I did my first camino in June this year (Porto to SdC with several detours) and got a lot of great advice off this forum.

Then I had the serious blues on my return, and felt I hadn’t finished walking. It was kinda like I was just getting going in the second week and when I got to SdC I felt I had a lot of miles left in me.

So I’m planning to go back at the end of this month and do a longer walk.

Unfortunately, I don’t have the days to do the whole Camino Frances and I’d rather save that until I have the time to walk the whole route in one trip.


I’m a big fan of mountains and do a lot of hiking at home in Ireland, which brings me to the Caminos del Salvador and Primitivo.

I can have 3+ weeks of actual walking and think this is enough to do both caminos (and maybe continue to Finisterre).

I have done a fair bit of research and read the latest version of Ender’s guide and Elle Bieling’s blog from 2020 as well as scouring the forum here for information.

However, I’m a bit nervy/unsure about the San Salvador camino and am looking for some guidance/reassurance from the good folks on this forum.


So here’s what’s playing on my mind.


I understand that accommodation is quite spread out in places and also that there are certain stages where the availability of food may be very limited.

I only have a few very basic phrases of Spanish so won’t be able to call ahead to ensure an albergue is open, or even to check if they can provide a meal.

I do enjoy walking alone, but am also quite a social person so am also a little worried this route might be too much solo – especially with the language barrier.


My aim is to do the San Salvador in 6 (or even 7) stages, which should still leave me plenty of time for the Primitivo.

So I’m hoping someone can advise me of a potential itinerary where I don’t really need worry or can minimise the worry about places being open and where I’m going to eat.


Thanks a million,


Phil
Just listened to this episode of ‘Spirit of the Camino’ podcast. It details a recently completed Camino del Salvador, and it’s very well done! https://podcasts.apple.com/ca/podcast/spirit-of-the-camino/id1537858962?i=1000576899014
Buen Camino!
 

neverlost4good

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
April 2015
Hi Phil I’m on the Salvador right now. I only met one other person to walk with. He speaks 5 languages so he is quite helpful. However by using Google Translate or by asking someone’s help I was able to book ahead everyday. I carried only a few power bars and peanuts as extra food. I ate double helpings of tortilla patata in every cafe. I booked into accommodations that provided food. Like Bar Mundo, Posada Embrujo, Albergue Cascoxu. I used Wise Pilgrim Salvador app for route finding though in general it’s well marked. I took my time and am on the 6 day plan.

See https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...vo-end-aug-september-2022.76560/#post-1064088
I will update the above thread when I reach Oviedo.

The first 3 days are strenuous. However, in my late 60s , I’m used to mountain walking and am comfortable with the Camino ways. Now in very early September there are no other pilgrims but this may change. Feel free to ask me questions.
Thanks for the great info: I'll be setting out on this trail Sept. 24th and plan on 7 days. I have a short-short day on day 4 (Pajares to Llanos de Someron: 5 km) but this is the extreme downhill section, so I'll count it as a rest day and maybe help out at the albergue, sweeping, cleaning, etc. I too am nervous about reservations, and I will have to ask for help in calling Pajares and Llanos de Someron. I'm 64, so I don't want to push too hard, plus, I walk slowly anyway admiring flowers, animals, clouds...:)

I didn't know Wise Pilgrim had this trail! Thanks again.
 

Carl Remarx

Walking where you’re not
Time of past OR future Camino
Planning a a Camino de Carlos
Just listened to this episode of ‘Spirit of the Camino’ podcast. It details a recently completed Camino del Salvador, and it’s very well done! https://podcasts.apple.com/ca/podcast/spirit-of-the-camino/id1537858962?i=1000576899014
Buen Camino!
Would you mind saying what this link is? I'm hesitant to download unknown files.
It’s the local ayuntamiento’s(government’s) website for the Salvador. Quite safe, shows CDS at 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 day arrangements.
 

Albertagirl

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances; Aragones; VdlP; Madrid-Invierno; Levante
I am planning to walk the San Salvador, alone, in the second half of October, then on to Olviedo for a few days and the Primitivo to Santiago. I was an experienced mountain walker, but have largely given up mountain walking since I discovered the caminos. I shall walk at least six days on the San Salvador, as I shall have extra time heading for Santiago and then my flight home. I am ten years older than @neverlost4good , so I am planning to spread out my days on the San Salvador as much as possible.
Yesterday I watched Efren Gonzalez's videos on the San Salvador and was quite inspired by the beautiful scenery. But I don't intend to push as much as he did.
 
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peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
I only have a few very basic phrases of Spanish so won’t be able to call ahead to ensure an albergue is open, or even to check if they can provide a meal.

I think the easiest way to communicate with most of these places is via WhatsApp. I think all of the owners understand enough English to respond to a request for accommodation or for a meal. I’ve said this many times, but more than 90% of the cell phones in Spain use WhatsApp.
I understand that accommodation is quite spread out in places
Specifically what places are you talking about? It is true that there are some stages where you will have to choose between long stages and short stages, but you are never forced to walk long stages if you don’t want to. Ender’s guide and several posts on this forum give you great ways to break it up into as many is eight or nine days, but that’s probably excessive for you.

lapoladegordon.es/fijos/fijos3/pdf/pdf1_1.pdf[/URL]
That is an out of date version of Ender’s guide. There is a 2022 version that incorporates a lot of changes. The OP said that he has seen Ender‘s guide, so I’m hoping that the references to the current one. But I put in the link just in case. Someone needs to notify the Town hall of Pola de Gordon so they can update!

In short, I think you will be fine on the Salvador. I would definitely have a GPS. The route is very well marked, but there are stretches that are what I would describe as remote, and it is a good back up to have.
 

BombayBill

Still Learning
Time of past OR future Camino
September 2022 Salvador Primitivo
Thanks for the great info: I'll be setting out on this trail Sept. 24th and plan on 7 days. I have a short-short day on day 4 (Pajares to Llanos de Someron: 5 km) but this is the extreme downhill section, so I'll count it as a rest day and maybe help out at the albergue, sweeping, cleaning, etc. I too am nervous about reservations, and I will have to ask for help in calling Pajares and Llanos de Someron. I'm 64, so I don't want to push too hard, plus, I walk slowly anyway admiring flowers, animals, clouds...:)

I didn't know Wise Pilgrim had this trail! Thanks again.
Someone may want to correct me but Pajares and Llanos de Someron are on opposite shoulders of the valley. You might want to examine this more closely and pick one or the other. I vote Llanos.
 
Time of past OR future Camino
Sept. 2022 El Salvador, Oct. 2022 Tui Portugués
I’ve said this many times, but more than 90% of the cell phones in Spain use WhatsApp.
Laurie, to my great surprise the Albergue in Pola de Lena no longer has a WhatsApp connection even though Gronze states WhatsApp is the preferred method of communication. I double checked it this morning with Merce, the hospitalera through FB who confirms NO WhatsApp, no reason provided.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Laurie, to my great surprise the Albergue in Pola de Lena no longer has a WhatsApp connection even though Gronze states WhatsApp is the preferred method of communication. I double checked it this morning with Merce, the hospitalera through FB who confirms NO WhatsApp, no reason provided.
How strange! But very good to know. They have only been open for about a month after more than two years closed, so I wonder if there is new management or something.

Did she tell you what methods of reserving she prefers? Because Gronze says that reservations are obligatory. In part that’s because it’s located within a municipal social center of sorts (lots of organizations have offices there) — and the building is closed on weekends.

When I stayed there, I was the only person in the HUGE place — at the time there were two big unconnected separate wings — one for men, one for women. The only recent commentary in Gronze does not comment on that feature, so maybe they have just opened one half or something. But in any event, it is a bit out of town, up some stairs near the train station, but perfectly fine.

I stayed last year in La Payareta in a single room and it wasn’t too expensive. There were several peregrinos there and the staff is very nice (it’s owned by the people in the bar down the street and they will throw in breakfast).
 
Time of past OR future Camino
Sept. 2022 El Salvador, Oct. 2022 Tui Portugués
Did she tell you what methods of reserving she prefers
I stayed last year in La Payareta in a single room and it wasn’t too expensive. There were several peregrinos there and the staff is very nice (it’s owned by the people in the bar down the street and they will throw in breakfast).
I will try to find out further. It seems she prefers a phone call.
Good to know.
 
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Texasguy

And so...we keep on walking ..
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Lebaniego y Vadiniese - October 2022
Hi folks,

I did my first camino in June this year (Porto to SdC with several detours) and got a lot of great advice off this forum.

Then I had the serious blues on my return, and felt I hadn’t finished walking. It was kinda like I was just getting going in the second week and when I got to SdC I felt I had a lot of miles left in me.

So I’m planning to go back at the end of this month and do a longer walk.

Unfortunately, I don’t have the days to do the whole Camino Frances and I’d rather save that until I have the time to walk the whole route in one trip.


I’m a big fan of mountains and do a lot of hiking at home in Ireland, which brings me to the Caminos del Salvador and Primitivo.

I can have 3+ weeks of actual walking and think this is enough to do both caminos (and maybe continue to Finisterre).

I have done a fair bit of research and read the latest version of Ender’s guide and Elle Bieling’s blog from 2020 as well as scouring the forum here for information.

However, I’m a bit nervy/unsure about the San Salvador camino and am looking for some guidance/reassurance from the good folks on this forum.


So here’s what’s playing on my mind.


I understand that accommodation is quite spread out in places and also that there are certain stages where the availability of food may be very limited.

I only have a few very basic phrases of Spanish so won’t be able to call ahead to ensure an albergue is open, or even to check if they can provide a meal.

I do enjoy walking alone, but am also quite a social person so am also a little worried this route might be too much solo – especially with the language barrier.


My aim is to do the San Salvador in 6 (or even 7) stages, which should still leave me plenty of time for the Primitivo.

So I’m hoping someone can advise me of a potential itinerary where I don’t really need worry or can minimise the worry about places being open and where I’m going to eat.


Thanks a million,


Phil


I did the El Salvador last June. It was beautiful and with very few peregrinos. The accommodations were a little scarce, but it was doable.
You will be fine.
The Primitivo this year in conjunction with the El Salvador, but we did not hurry on the primitivo, and my goal was to do Hospitales, IT WAS FANTASTIC!!

Go for it!!!

Buen Camino!!!

Texasguy
 

Eamonrodden

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
French, Norte, Primitivo, portuguese, via del plata, madrid
I cannot comment on what is open, but I walked it in 6 days (4 nights) easily, That was 3 years ago I was 67 and had (still have ) arthritic knee. Great walk. I downloaded an app.
Good luck
 

BobY333

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2023 (planning!)
This will be an incredible journey that you will love! I walked them this past May and I can’t wait to go again with my wife.

I walked the San Salvador in 5 days and the Primitivo in 11. Yes, there were many miles of walking on my own. But, I always met up with other pilgrims either on the Camino or in the village/albuerge where I stayed.

I used the Camino Ninja app (RIP) extensively, and it’s great - particularly its GPS map function.

If you’re interested, I posted every day in the “Live from” section of this forum. Enjoy!

Buen Camino!
 

phildimashq

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CP coastal then central then spiritual June 22
Wow.. thank you so much everyone for the responses - I'm not sure where to start and I'm sorry if I leave anyone out

The only issue I can see, though I’ll stand to be corrected, is stretching a 5 day Camino to 7 days though I’m sure someone can.

Realistically, I think I'll be aiming for six days - probably split stage 3 into two days as I've heard it can be a very long day and the daylight hours will be short when I'm doing the walk

Hi Phil I’m on the Salvador right now. I only met one other person to walk with. He speaks 5 languages so he is quite helpful. However by using Google Translate or by asking someone’s help I was able to book ahead everyday. I carried only a few power bars and peanuts as extra food. I ate double helpings of tortilla patata in every cafe. I booked into accommodations that provided food. Like Bar Mundo, Posada Embrujo, Albergue Cascoxu. I used Wise Pilgrim Salvador app for route finding though in general it’s well marked. I took my time and am on the 6 day plan.

See https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...vo-end-aug-september-2022.76560/#post-1064088

Thanks Bob, I have been following your thread


thank you

Just listened to this episode of ‘Spirit of the Camino’ podcast. It details a recently completed Camino del Salvador, and it’s very well done! https://podcasts.apple.com/ca/podcast/spirit-of-the-camino/id1537858962?i=1000576899014
Buen Camino!

Thanks, will listen to it this evening

That is an out of date version of Ender’s guide. There is a 2022 version that incorporates a lot of changes. The OP said that he has seen Ender‘s guide, so I’m hoping that the references to the current one. But I put in the link just in case. Someone needs to notify the Town hall of Pola de Gordon so they can update!

Actually, I didn't have the current one. This is brilliant, thank you. I've already had a brief scan through it and I feel a lot more confident now.

If you’re interested, I posted every day in the “Live from” section of this forum. Enjoy!

Thanks, I'll be reading this later on too.



One again, thank you one and all.

I really, really, appreciate everyone's responses and all your encouragement.

I've been having some last minute jitters and needed a bit of a confidence boost (and/or a good kick in the backside) to make a decision.

I'll be booking my flight tonight.

Cheers,

Phil
 
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jungleboy

Spirit of the Camino (Nick)
Time of past OR future Camino
Some in the past; more in the future!
Realistically, I think I'll be aiming for six days - probably split stage 3 into two days as I've heard it can be a very long day and the daylight hours will be short when I'm doing the walk
I definitely recommend this as you’ll hear if you listen to the podcast. ¡Buen camino!
 
Time of past OR future Camino
CF 2021; CSS/CP 2022
Everyone’s comments have been enormously helpful. Thanks Phil for starting the discussion. I’m anticipating starting San Salvador around October 4, and currently giving myself 7 days. (My feet are very old soles…😄) Nervous too but very, very excited. * Note that Sandra at Bendueños says the albergue remains closed due to community water problems. But check back at the end of the month to see if the situation is resolved. * Phil, I’m using WhatsApp to communicate (and Google translate when I’m unsure of myself). I’m also depending on Wise Pilgrim and Camino Ninja (RIP) apps. Often, an hospitaler@ will kindly call ahead to your next destination if asked and if they can. At least, that was my experience last year on the CF. Buen camino a todos!
 

Colette Z

Happy Pilgrim
Time of past OR future Camino
CF; Norte; Ingles; Augustine; Portugues Central
Hi folks,

I did my first camino in June this year (Porto to SdC with several detours) and got a lot of great advice off this forum.

Then I had the serious blues on my return, and felt I hadn’t finished walking. It was kinda like I was just getting going in the second week and when I got to SdC I felt I had a lot of miles left in me.

So I’m planning to go back at the end of this month and do a longer walk.

Unfortunately, I don’t have the days to do the whole Camino Frances and I’d rather save that until I have the time to walk the whole route in one trip.


I’m a big fan of mountains and do a lot of hiking at home in Ireland, which brings me to the Caminos del Salvador and Primitivo.

I can have 3+ weeks of actual walking and think this is enough to do both caminos (and maybe continue to Finisterre).

I have done a fair bit of research and read the latest version of Ender’s guide and Elle Bieling’s blog from 2020 as well as scouring the forum here for information.

However, I’m a bit nervy/unsure about the San Salvador camino and am looking for some guidance/reassurance from the good folks on this forum.


So here’s what’s playing on my mind.


I understand that accommodation is quite spread out in places and also that there are certain stages where the availability of food may be very limited.

I only have a few very basic phrases of Spanish so won’t be able to call ahead to ensure an albergue is open, or even to check if they can provide a meal.

I do enjoy walking alone, but am also quite a social person so am also a little worried this route might be too much solo – especially with the language barrier.


My aim is to do the San Salvador in 6 (or even 7) stages, which should still leave me plenty of time for the Primitivo.

So I’m hoping someone can advise me of a potential itinerary where I don’t really need worry or can minimise the worry about places being open and where I’m going to eat.


Thanks a million,


Phil
Join the Facebook Camino Salvador group. The pilgrims are posting daily right now so live conditions/feedback. I too will walk mid October 2022 alone (hoping to meet others) and seems accommodation is NOT an issue when you walk it in 5-7 stages ;as I plan to do then continue in the Primitivo).
 
Time of past OR future Camino
Sept. 2022 El Salvador, Oct. 2022 Tui Portugués
Join the Facebook Camino Salvador group.
There are 2 large San Salvador FB groups. Ender’s, author of the recently updated Salvador guide that Peregrina2000 translated and available here on the forum, is listed as Camino del salvador lower cases as just written. The other is CAMINO DEL SALVADOR all caps by Gregori.
 
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phildimashq

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CP coastal then central then spiritual June 22
****UPDATE****

Hi folks,

Just thought I'd come back with an update and maybe another question or two 😁

My flight is booked and starting walking from Léon on October 4th (Tuesday).

Thanks to everyone's advice, live from the camino posts, and the latest version of Ender's guide from perergrina2000 I have decided on the following initial stages and have accommodation booked

  • Pension Mundon in La Robla Tuesday 4th.
  • Posada el Embrujo in Poladura for Wednesday 5th
  • Albergue Cascoxu in Llanos for Thursday 6th
I'm still undecided about the rest, and so am looking for opinions on these two options:

Option A:

Looking at the profile of the route, it would appear that Llanos to Mieres on Friday 7th is doable, which would then have me walking Mieres to Ovideo on Saturday 8th

This would allow me to visit the cathedral which I believe is closed on Sunday.

Option B:

I loved the description of Benduenos albergue in Nick's podcast and if it is back open when I am on the camino this might be an option on Friday 7th.

Then walk to Mieres on Saturday 8th, and continue to Oviedo on Sunday 9th.

Of course, the cathedral will be closed and so I could take Monday 10th as a rest day in order to visit the cathedral and the city.

The alternative is to visit the cathedral on Monday morning and then hike to Grado on the Primitivo but I think that's a bit of an ask in terms of time.


Option A could have me on the Primitivo on Sunday 9th while Option B would most likely have me on the Primitivo on Tuesday 11th.

Flight home is booked for Weds 26th and I would like to walk the Primitivo and on to Finisterre.


Just in terms of what is "doable" - I appreciate this means different things to different folks. So to give you an idea of me : I'm a 50 year old guy, train regularly in the gym, and hike at least once a week covering typically 20 - 25 km with 900/1000 meters gain/loss, so I think I'm reasonably fit.


After all this waffling, my main question is - if benduenos is open, is it worth adding maybe two days just to visit?

And the second question is - would it be feasible to visit Oviedo cathedral on a Monday morning and still have time to walk to Grado?

I do realise that I might be overthinking things (more last minute nerves) and best thing could be just to go with whatever takes me when I'm on the camino - but I would appreciate any advice and opinions from folks who have done this already.

thanks a million

Phil






 

Tincatinker

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2012
The cathedral is closed for touristic visits on Sundays. There is nothing to prevent you attending mass and visiting the camara sancta as a pilgrim if that is your desire and inclination. If you only wish to visit as a “tourist” then you’ll have to try for Monday morning. Opens 10:00am
 

phildimashq

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CP coastal then central then spiritual June 22
The cathedral is closed for touristic visits on Sundays. There is nothing to prevent you attending mass and visiting the camara sancta as a pilgrim if that is your desire and inclination. If you only wish to visit as a “tourist” then you’ll have to try for Monday morning. Opens 10:00am

Ah I had that completely wrong then. Not sure how I got my wires so crossed and I do remember thinking it was very odd that a cathedral is closed on Sunday of all days 🤣.

Can you also get your Salvadorana on a Sunday?
 

LavanyaLea

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances (May/June 2022)
Option B:

I loved the description of Benduenos albergue in Nick's podcast and if it is back open when I am on the camino this might be an option on Friday 7th.​
If you want to stay in Benduenos on Friday, then the day before you don't have to go as far as Llanos... (Llanos-Benduenos is only 10k) You can stay in Pajares instead... or have both options open and see how you feel.

So:
Poladura - Pajares (14k)
Pajares - Benduenos (16k)
Benduenos - Mieres (22k)

for a 6-day Salvador

The alternative is to visit the cathedral on Monday morning and then hike to Grado on the Primitivo but I think that's a bit of an ask in terms of time.
I read that some pilgrims who spend the morning to visit the Naranco churches (a few kms away from Oviedo city centre) will stop at Escamplero at the end of day 1 (12k). Then Escamplero-Cornellana (day 2).
 
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BobY333

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2023 (planning!)
Phil,

I don't know the answer to the Salvadorana question. But, here's my take on the rest. For reference, it sounds like we're in similar shape, so I think I can give you decent perspective.

La Robla - Pension Mundo was great. The woman that runs it was a treat.
Poladura - I stayed at the muni, but I ws only there to sleep and was at El Embrujo for the rest of the time for beer, dinner, and such.

Llanos - I also had reservations there. But, I arrived, alone, at 1:45pm. The forecast was for rain, there is literally nothing else in the village, and the Albuerge didn't open its doors until 5pm. At that point I decided to walk on to Bendueños (I has spoken with Sandra the day before and knew she had availability and was flexible - I could come or not, she didn't mind either way). This was a very long day, and the hardest part for me was the downhill from Llanos on the pavement - my knee were barking a bit, so I rested on the guardrail a few times. Also, the Llanos hospitaleros totally understood why I had moved on, and were not angry.

As great as Bendueños was, I would not add an entire day (or two!) just for that one experience. I would keep that day in your pocket for any unforeseen circumstances along the Primitivo and out to Fisterre. It already feels like you're pressing it a bit. I did the Primitivo in 11 days with Lugo - Santiago in three. It was long, but certainly doable. And, I would recommend Muxia as well if you're going to Fisterre. Keeping that day allows for this as a possibility. (In 2018 we walked SdC-Muxia in three days and then to Fisterre in one more day).

You will have an amazing journey I'm sure. I'm envious!

Buen Camino,
Bob
 
Time of past OR future Camino
CF 2021; CSS/CP 2022
Hi Phil, we are walking almost the exact same time! I’m a day behind you, depending on when I leave León. Hope to see you on the Camino…check with Sandra at Bendueños before you leave to see if she’s open.
 

BobY333

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2023 (planning!)
One more thing - I really loved every stop along my Primitivo. I would really recommend staying at Bodenaya since this is David's last season and he's a bit of a legend! San Juan de Villapañada and the Castro schoolhouse were two other absolute favorites, oh, as was "Heidi's Place" which doesn't show up in a number of the apps, but was amazing for my last night prior to walking into SdC.
 
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Sept. 2022 El Salvador, Oct. 2022 Tui Portugués
And the second question is - would it be feasible to visit Oviedo cathedral on a Monday morning and still have time to walk to Grado?
It took me about 6.5 h to walk to Grado. Leisurely walk with a couple of stops along the way. From Miraflores the town before Grado to Grado was beautiful in May 2019 with flowers and newborn animals, donkeys, horses, cows but the sun was blazing and no shade for that entire stretch.
 

phildimashq

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CP coastal then central then spiritual June 22
Thank you once again to everyone for your input, advice, and experience.

Really appreciate it.

On another of your questions: Oviedo to Grado is 26km. If you’re leaving the city by 11:00am it’s very doable. So is the shorter day to Escamplero but via the beautiful Naranco monuments

Thanks, thought it might be too much of a push.

Llanos - I also had reservations there. But, I arrived, alone, at 1:45pm. The forecast was for rain, there is literally nothing else in the village, and the Albuerge didn't open its doors until 5pm. At that point I decided to walk on to Bendueños (I has spoken with Sandra the day before and knew she had availability and was flexible - I could come or not, she didn't mind either way). This was a very long day, and the hardest part for me was the downhill from Llanos on the pavement - my knee were barking a bit, so I rested on the guardrail a few times. Also, the Llanos hospitaleros totally understood why I had moved on, and were not angry.

That's good to know. Just emailed Sandra to see if there's a chance she'll reopen in October

Hi Phil, we are walking almost the exact same time! I’m a day behind you, depending on when I leave León. Hope to see you on the Camino…check with Sandra at Bendueños before you leave to see if she’s open.

Haha - I'm sure we will bump into each other. Buen Camino

I would really recommend staying at Bodenaya since this is David's last season and he's a bit of a legend! San Juan de Villapañada and the Castro schoolhouse were two other absolute favorites, oh, as was "Heidi's Place" which doesn't show up in a number of the apps, but was amazing for my last night prior to walking into SdC.
Wow, thanks again Bob - I'm going to note those down (still haven't really started to "plan" my stages for the primitivo yet)
 

Tincatinker

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2012
Hello. I am planning to walk this camino from Leon to Oviedo in October and I am not sure is it necessary to have a credential of this camino if I want to sleep in albergues, maybe someone knows the answer? Thanks a lot
Most Albergue operators will expect you to have a credencial. Readily available in Leon.
The Cathedral will also expect you to show a credencial if you wish to claim a Pilgrim’s access and a Salvadorana
 

Tincatinker

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2012
Thanks a lot for you answer. I will start my camino in the morning after night trip from madrid to leon by bus, can you advice me please where I can find to buy credecial in the morning after I will arrive to Leon? Thank you very much for your help :)
Albergue del Convento de las Carbajalas, Pl. Santa María del Camino, 3
 
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NadineK

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances (2014)
Norte/Primitivo (2015)
San Salvador (2016)
Le Puy-Cahors (2017)
Aragonés (2019)
If you want to stay in Benduenos on Friday, then the day before you don't have to go as far as Llanos... (Llanos-Benduenos is only 10k) You can stay in Pajares instead... or have both options open and see how you feel.

So:
Poladura - Pajares (14k)
Pajares - Benduenos (16k)
Benduenos - Mieres (22k)

for a 6-day Salvador


I read that some pilgrims who spend the morning to visit the Naranco churches (a few kms away from Oviedo city centre) will stop at Escamplero at the end of day 1 (12k). Then Escamplero-Cornellana (day 2).

I just walked the San Salvador (for the second time!) in July; my first time was in 2016 and this time around was even more beautiful than I'd remembered! (it probably helped that I had perfect weather)

The stages that @LavanyaLea lists was exactly what I did this summer: 6 stages, staying in Pajares, then Benduenos, then Mieres. I thought it was perfect, and I was so happy to get to stay in Benduenos (but I also really like Pajares, too, it's just such a beautiful spot!)

I'm not sure if it will be of any interest, but I've been posting videos over on YouTube of my summer pilgrimage; the San Salvador was in the middle of a longer Camino walk and so I've just now started putting up those videos. More to come in the next week or two! You may not want to see too many visuals ahead of time, but if you're interested, here's the link to the first video:
 
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LavanyaLea

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances (May/June 2022)
I just walked the San Salvador (for the second time!) in July; my first time was in 2016 and this time around was even more beautiful than I'd remembered! (it probably helped that I had perfect weather)

The stages that @LavanyaLea lists was exactly what I did this summer: 6 stages, staying in Pajares, then Benduenos, then Mieres. I thought it was perfect, and I was so happy to get to stay in Benduenos (but I also really like Pajares, too, it's just such a beautiful spot!)

I'm not sure if it will be of any interest, but I've been posting videos over on YouTube of my summer pilgrimage; the San Salvador was in the middle of a longer Camino walk and so I've just now started putting up those videos. More to come in the next week or two! You may not want to see too many visuals ahead of time, but if you're interested, here's the link to the first video:
I read your 2016 Salvador blog posts and that inspired me to do this year’s!
 

Lynnhardy

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2019
If you want to stay in Benduenos on Friday, then the day before you don't have to go as far as Llanos... (Llanos-Benduenos is only 10k) You can stay in Pajares instead... or have both options open and see how you feel.

So:
Poladura - Pajares (14k)
Pajares - Benduenos (16k)
Benduenos - Mieres (22k)

for a 6-day Salvador


I read that some pilgrims who spend the morning to visit the Naranco churches (a few kms away from Oviedo city centre) will stop at Escamplero at the end of day 1 (12k). Then Escamplero-Cornellana (day 2).
Good point. I cannot book albergue in Poladura . It’s full on my date in September. Just hoping the Muncipal won’t be full. Certainly having second third ideas if I should do this as places appear booked out
 

LavanyaLea

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances (May/June 2022)
Good point. I cannot book albergue in Poladura . It’s full on my date in September. Just hoping the Muncipal won’t be full. Certainly having second third ideas if I should do this as places appear booked out
What is your date for Salvador?
 
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Lynnhardy

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2019
What is your date for Salvador?
I also didn’t get a booking for la robla as I do not Spk Spanish for phone. I booked Gordon from leon as first day instead in a panic. I have realised it’s 34/38 Km! I’m being a bit stupid as not fit recovering from op! But previously walked a lot…… so still going! But I see a train goes leon to la robla in mornings …. And it would be strange as I never take transport on camino/walks but I might do that and walk to gordon from there to give a more break in first day. I am doing the Primitivo too . And as I said May do the Villamanin route too as a hostel bootable there….. make life bit easier at the moment!
 

LavanyaLea

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances (May/June 2022)
I also didn’t get a booking for la robla as I do not Spk Spanish for phone.
Apart from the municipal, there are 2 private hostels in La Robla. Pension Mundo and Hostal Ordoñez . I contacted Ordoñez via WhatsApp so have not needed to speak directly - contact is +34 652 921 630
 

phildimashq

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CP coastal then central then spiritual June 22
I also didn’t get a booking for la robla as I do not Spk Spanish for phone. I booked Gordon from leon as first day instead in a panic. I have realised it’s 34/38 Km! I’m being a bit stupid as not fit recovering from op! But previously walked a lot…… so still going! But I see a train goes leon to la robla in mornings …. And it would be strange as I never take transport on camino/walks but I might do that and walk to gordon from there to give a more break in first day. I am doing the Primitivo too . And as I said May do the Villamanin route too as a hostel bootable there….. make life bit easier at the moment!
Hi Lynn, I'm staying in Pension Mundo at the start of October. I also don;t have enough spanish for a phone call so I asked a Spanish friend of mine to ring and ask for their whatsapp number. Then I was able to communicate using google translate and make my booking :) The lady I was messaging seems very nice, the room was €20, and the number I have is +34 676 237926
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
I also didn’t get a booking for la robla as I do not Spk Spanish for phone. I booked Gordon from leon as first day instead in a panic. I have realised it’s 34/38 Km! I’m being a bit stupid as not fit recovering from op! But previously walked a lot…… so still going! But I see a train goes leon to la robla in mornings …. And it would be strange as I never take transport on camino/walks but I might do that and walk to gordon from there to give a more break in first day. I am doing the Primitivo too . And as I said May do the Villamanin route too as a hostel bootable there….. make life bit easier at the moment!
I would not recommend the route via Villamamin under any circumstances. It is a total highway walk, along side a busy road with lots of trucks coming towards you. On my first Salvador, we missed the turn at the water shed and wound up in Villamanin. From there to Pajares was a nightmare, and this was on a Sunday. If it had been on a weekday it would’ve been much worse.

The most beautiful part of the Salvador is from Buiza to Pajares, and if you go via Villamanin, you won’t see much of that
 

Lynnhardy

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2019
Apart from the municipal, there are 2 private hostels in La Robla. Pension Mundo and Hostal Ordoñez . I contacted Ordoñez via WhatsApp so have not needed to speak directly - contact is +34 652 921 630
Thank you I managed to book hostel Ordonez via WhatsApp
 
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philbus65

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Unsure!
I am planning to walk the San Salvador, alone, in the second half of October, then on to Olviedo for a few days and the Primitivo to Santiago. I was an experienced mountain walker, but have largely given up mountain walking since I discovered the caminos. I shall walk at least six days on the San Salvador, as I shall have extra time heading for Santiago and then my flight home. I am ten years older than @neverlost4good , so I am planning to spread out my days on the San Salvador as much as possible.
Yesterday I watched Efren Gonzalez's videos on the San Salvador and was quite inspired by the beautiful scenery. But I don't intend to push as much as he did.
Might see you out there - I'm planning to start from Leon on October n16 (depending on how long it takes me to get from SJPP to Leon along the Frances!). Also planning to continue on the Primitivo.
 

Colette Z

Happy Pilgrim
Time of past OR future Camino
CF; Norte; Ingles; Augustine; Portugues Central
Might see you out there - I'm planning to start from Leon on October n16 (depending on how long it takes me to get from SJPP to Leon along the Frances!). Also planning to continue on the Primitivo.
I’ll start from Leon Oct 21 or 22 depending on weather. Planning a 6 day Camin to Oviedo but remaining flexible to adjust for weather and having company over the mountains. Thereafter I will continue on the Primitivo. Keep me iup to date with your start date. Buen Camino !
 

Lynnhardy

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2019
Hello, ok I shall look at that again then. Most guide books say to do that route if raining / bad weather as otherwise too differcult.
 

phildimashq

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CP coastal then central then spiritual June 22
Once again, thanks everyone for all the advice and encouragement.

I've a taxi picking me in 4 hours to go to the airport and catch a 6 am flight to Madrid. Get to Leon on Monday and will be on the San Salvador on Tuesday morning all going to plan.
 

BobY333

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2023 (planning!)
Once again, thanks everyone for all the advice and encouragement.

I've a taxi picking me in 4 hours to go to the airport and catch a 6 am flight to Madrid. Get to Leon on Monday and will be on the San Salvador on Tuesday morning all going to plan.
Keep us updated so we can live vicariously! Or, post in the LIVE section (but let us know here that you're doing that)! Buen Camino!
 
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LavanyaLea

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances (May/June 2022)
Once again, thanks everyone for all the advice and encouragement.

I've a taxi picking me in 4 hours to go to the airport and catch a 6 am flight to Madrid. Get to Leon on Monday and will be on the San Salvador on Tuesday morning all going to plan.
We saw a pilgrim on the Primitivo, who had to bail out of the Salvador because on his first night in La Robla, he got bitten by many bed bugs in Pension Mundo. This was last Friday.
 

BobY333

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2023 (planning!)
Always always check your bed for signs before putting down your gear. It can happen anywhere in the world. If the managers were made aware of it, they would have taken care of it - they have a business they want to protect! I had a wonderful experience there in May - the woman behind the bar was awesome!
 
Time of past OR future Camino
Sept. 2022 El Salvador, Oct. 2022 Tui Portugués
I stayed in a private room at Pension Mundo with a shared bath. The wing and room was recently built and impeccably clean. Fresh sheets and towels. That night we were 5 Peregrinos that kept running into each other while walking. We saw no bed bugs. Wonder where the unlucky Peregrino was lodging.
 

phildimashq

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CP coastal then central then spiritual June 22
Thanks folks.. but I'm already feeling itchy :-( and I'm not even in the bed yet cos I was posting something :D did my usual check earlier and all looked good but now...

 
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