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LIVE from the Camino A few notes on the forum Invierno guide

Glenshiro

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Le Puy - A Rua, Frances, Invierno (2012 - 2022)
I thought I might just post a few updates on Laurie's excellent guide to the Invierno, gleaned from a short trip earlier this month. I got as far as A Rua before Covid intervened.

Loose dogs: I didn't encounter any of these between Ponferrada and A Rua. I heard the occasional barking dog, but seldom even saw them.

Santalla del Bierzo: the bar on the highway is now for sale, but looking semiderelict, with glass missing from at least one window.

Castillo de Cornatel: current opening hours are Wednesday to Sunday, 11 AM to 2 PM, then 4 PM to 8 PM. There is a telephone number, 606 89 8140.

Borrenes: I had lunch in the restaurant attached to the hotel Cornatel Medulas - not sure if it's the same place as Bar Casa Marisol, but the food was good. The landlady, initially a bit on the gruff side, mellowed quickly and took good care of me, including calling a taxi to my next destination.

La Peregrina, Carucedo. I had booked here as the hotel in Borrenes had no availability. I was aware that it was in a rural location, so was not greatly surprised when I arrived to find it locked and unattended, with a telephone number to ring for admission. Two telephone calls in Spanglish got me into the building and to a good room on the ground floor. It's a nice, modern hotel, and I have no complaints about my room (ceiling fan rather than air conditioning, but sufficient) However, I quickly discovered that there would be no staff there at all for the rest of the day and, in particular, no meal service. The person to whom I spoke on the phone suggested that I go to the supermarcado in the village, about a mile away in temperatures in the mid 30s, as there was nowhere open nearby serving meals on Monday evening. I ended up taking a rather expensive taxi to Las Medulas and an excellent meal in the hotel Medulio, whose manager gave me a lift back to the Peregrina. With hindsight, I should have stayed there. Later on, in A Rua, I met a Spanish peregrino who had had exactly the same experience, including staying in the same room.

Puente de Domingo Flórez: Bar el Cruce is closed on Tuesdays. I stayed the night at Hostal La Torre II, the two star hotel, at a rate of €55 for the night. Though slightly old-fashioned, the hotel is clean and comfortable. My original room was south facing and very hot and, without prompting, the manager appeared when I was having a drink in the bar and suggested I move to a cooler room, with a balcony. The staff are a friendly bunch, and I had a good evening meal there.

O Barco De Valdeorras: every bit as nice as advertised. I stayed at the Hotel Malecon, a modern air-conditioned building, without restaurant, in Rua des Pescadores, just off the Malecon. Good value at €52.50 a night. I had lunch and dinner at Casa Galaica, and confirm the food is excellent and good value, especially the menu del dia. Very friendly and helpful staff.

A Rúa de Valdeorras: had lunch at Mesón O Toño, Rúa Benito Fernández, which was good value and obviously very popular with locals.

The Invierno is a very interesting Camino, with some beautiful scenery. It is very quiet, pilgrim-wise: I only met one in the four days I was on it, a Spanish chap from Madrid. I hope to return next year to complete my journey to Santiago.
 
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Bad Pilgrim

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Time of past OR future Camino
Yes
I stayed the night at Hostal La Torre II, the two star hotel, at a rate of €55 for the night

I once only paid 18 euros when I stayed there (2015 or 2018). Does anyone know if this is the difference between Torre I and Torre II?
 

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Glenshiro

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Le Puy - A Rua, Frances, Invierno (2012 - 2022)
I forgot to mention that on this camino I received lots of "buen camino" wishes from the locals, still not blasé about the number of peregrinos as they surely are on the CF. It's a common greeting in France, but I hadn't heard it since I arrived at the Spanish border from Le Puy.
 
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Mycroft

Veteran Member
I thought I might just post a few updates on Laurie's excellent guide to the Invierno, gleaned from a short trip earlier this month. I got as far as A Rua before Covid intervened.

Loose dogs: I didn't encounter any of these between Ponferrada and A Rua. I heard the occasional barking dog, but seldom even saw them.

Santalla del Bierzo: the bar on the highway is now for sale, but looking semiderelict, with glass missing from at least one window.

Castillo de Cornatel: current opening hours are Wednesday to Sunday, 11 AM to 2 PM, then 4 PM to 8 PM. There is a telephone number, 606 89 8140.

Borrenes: I had lunch in the restaurant attached to the hotel Cornatel Medulas - not sure if it's the same place as Bar Casa Marisol, but the food was good. The landlady, initially a bit on the gruff side, mellowed quickly and took good care of me, including calling a taxi to my next destination.

La Peregrina, Carucedo. I had booked here as the hotel in Borrenes had no availability. I was aware that it was in a rural location, so was not greatly surprised when I arrived to find it locked and unattended, with a telephone number to ring for admission. Two telephone calls in Spanglish got me into the building and to a good room on the ground floor. It's a nice, modern hotel, and I have no complaints about my room (ceiling fan rather than air conditioning, but sufficient) However, I quickly discovered that there would be no staff there at all for the rest of the day and, in particular, no meal service. The person to whom I spoke on the phone suggested that I go to the supermarcado in the village, about a mile away in temperatures in the mid 30s, as there was nowhere open nearby serving meals on Monday evening. I ended up taking a rather expensive taxi to Las Medulas and an excellent meal in the hotel Medulio, whose manager gave me a lift back to the Peregrina. With hindsight, I should have stayed there. Later on, in A Rua, I met a Spanish peregrino who had had exactly the same experience, including staying in the same room.

Puente de Domingo Flórez: Bar el Cruce is closed on Tuesdays. I stayed the night at Hostal La Torre II, the two star hotel, at a rate of €55 for the night. Though slightly old-fashioned, the hotel is clean and comfortable. My original room was south facing and very hot and, without prompting, the manager appeared when I was having a drink in the bar and suggested I move to a cooler room, with a balcony. The staff are a friendly bunch, and I had a good evening meal there.

O Barco De Valdeorras: every bit as nice as advertised. I stayed at the Hotel Malecon, a modern air-conditioned building, without restaurant, in Rua des Pescadores, just off the Malecon. Good value at €52.50 a night. I had lunch and dinner at Casa Galaica, and confirm the food is excellent and good value, especially the menu del dia. Very friendly and helpful staff.

A Rúa de Valdeorras: had lunch at Mesón O Toño, Rúa Benito Fernández, which was good value and obviously very popular with locals.

The Invierno is a very interesting Camino, with some beautiful scenery. It is very quiet, pilgrim-wise: I only met one in the four days I was on it, a Spanish chap from Madrid. I hope to return next year to complete my journey to Santiago.
Always nice to get updates. Thanks for this!
 

Bad Pilgrim

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Yes
I just called hostal la Torre in Puente Domingo Florez. A room would be 42 euros; he said that this was the cheapest. (I presented myself as a pilgrim). I reserved a place at the albergue Rosa instead. It seems that the times where a room at la Torre would be 20-30 euros are gone?
 

Glenshiro

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Le Puy - A Rua, Frances, Invierno (2012 - 2022)
I just called hostal la Torre in Puente Domingo Florez. A room would be 42 euros
Was that without a private bathroom? I stayed in Hostal la Torre II, which may be the more upmarket one.
 

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This graph shows numbers and trends by month of Compostelas issued for Pilgrims on the Camino Invierno (as defined by the Pilgrim Office). Keep in mind that the data is by month of arrival in...

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