A few questions for experienced pilgrims

[AnnaK]

Hello! I'm new to the forum and am planning my first Camino walk - the Primitivo, Oviedo to Santiago in May 2015.

Firstly this forum has already been so interesting, useful and informative - thank you so much to all contributors! And I apologise in advance if some of my questions have already been discussed and I've missed them.

I'm planning to do the route in 13 days including a day off in Lugo so that averages 25km most days. I do hope I'm not overestimating my capabilities - I am 55 and have a spinal fusion; I am used to walking trails in the UK including Scotland and other mountainous areas but not on so many consecutive days carrying a pack. I intend to train of course. However if I find I'm slower I don't want to get stressed about missing a flight home. Does anybody know how likely it is that I'd be able to book a flight from Santiago back to the UK at short notice?

Also - I'd love to see Finisterre but can't extend my trip that long - are there public transport options from Santiago to make the trip in a day?

I have read a lot about the eating possibilities but am still wondering about eating at albergues that have a kitchen but not a bar, or a shop nearby, where they offer common meals or it's suggested you get food in the previous town. This is probably a silly question but I wonder how to know what to buy and how much in such cases. Not keen on walking with big bags of groceries but how to know what might be needed to produce a hot meal... Even how many people will be there?!

Lastly - I'm a keen wild swimmer and wonder if anyone knows if there are particular spots on the route that might be good for a dip - river pools or lakes with access.... would be the icing on the cake (I hope in May not literally "icing")

Best, Anna

 

[Anniesantiago]

Hi there, and welcome to the forum!

Finisterre. There are several buses that leave from Santiago every day, go to Finisterre and return the same day. The cost is between 30 and 40 euros. Get information at the Tourist Info office on current schedules. Another great option is to get together with 3 other pilgrims and rent your own taxi to take you for the day. This way you can leave when you want, go see Finisterre (the taxi will wait while you explore), then have him drive you to also see Muxia (and wait while you explore), then back to Santiago. The cost is around 150 euros for the day and if split 4-5 ways, is about the same or less than the bus. Plus it gives you the option of going and returning at your own schedule.

Food. Most albergues have a kitchen where you can cook. Pilgrim meals are offered all along the route. I prefer to eat earlier in the day, between noon and 2 pm and buy the Menu del Dia, which is less expensive and better, in my opinion, than the Pilgrim menu. Then I just snack in the evening or find tapas in a bar somewhere. If you stay in parochials, they often offer a family style meal that is included in the price of your stay (which is generally donativo.) If they are offering a mat on the floor I usually leave 5 -7 euros. If they are feeding me, I will give 8-12 euros.

Swimming. Not sure about that route.

 

[Castilian]

Hi! Welcome to the forum!

Does anybody know how likely it is that I'd be able to book a flight from Santiago back to the UK at short notice?

It shouldn't be a big problem. If direct flights were full, you could get flights changing planes in Madrid or Barcelona. The main problem could be price because flights booked at short notice can be much more expensive than flights booked (well) in advance.

Also - I'd love to see Finisterre but can't extend my trip that long - are there public transport options from Santiago to make the trip in a day?

Yes, you can make it a daytrip from Santiago to Fisterra (aka Finisterre) by bus. Take a look at the web of monbus for info about schedules, fares and ticket purchase.

http://www.monbus.es

 

[ebrandt]

Hi Anna --

I am planning on walking the Primitivo in June 2015 and have assembled a guide from info on this form, the CSJ and Cicerone Guides, and the Eroski and Gronze websites. I haven't actually walked so the info is all second hand, but I've tried to rely on good sources! I posted it in the resource section of the forum here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...tiago-and-then-to-muxia-finisterre-guide.225/. I've tried to include good info on whether there are meals available at the albergue, whether it has a kitchen and whether towns have bars and stores. Hopefully you will find this helpful. In terms of knowing what to buy if you are going to cook, I suspect after the first couple of days you will be able to make plans with fellow pilgrims as you go along for an evening meal and what you each will contribute. I think there are only a couple of places that don't have a store -- San Juan Villapanada at the beginning is one of them. But I wouldn't worry and just play things by ear and I think you will be fine and not walking with bags of food!

Annie Santiago gave you good advice about Finisterre.

Sorry I don't know about booking flights at the last minute or about wild swimming! On the swimming though, you are at relatively high elevations on much of the Primitivo so the water is likely to be very cold that early in the summer. Maybe that's part of the adventure?

Buen Camino and Welcome to the forum.

Liz

 

[Jodipup]

Hi Anna,
My husband and I walked Northern Route and Primitivo in October. It was wonderful! I am 57 years old and also reasonably fit. What I found the most useful is that on all my training walks I walked with my backpack on. I slowly built up the weight until I was walking with between 8-9kgs. When I started my Camino my pack weighed 6kg excluding my water. I was SO thankful that I trained with a heavier pack. It was lovely to be able to walk feeling comfortable with my pack. Any extra food that I may have had to add did not cause me any discomfort.
On the Primitivo route you dont have many options for accommodation or distances to travel. We found that because of walking 20 days on the Northern route before getting to the Primitivo, we were well prepared. The mountains are steep, the hills are many and the roads are hard but it is well worth it. It is sometimes hard to find food in the many small villages but the staff in the albergues are very knowledgeable and prepare you for the following day. You will be see authentic rural Spain, no commercialization.
Have fun, I loved every minute of it.
Lesley
P.S. I am planning my next Camino, hopefully a short one in May.
P.P.S It was our first Camino as well.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Hola Anna and welcome to the forum.
I would suggest that you get a CSJ guide to the Primitivo and also the Cicerone guide to the Caminos del Norte (Amazon) . There are also the online guides such as Gronze. (You can make extra notes in the CSJ guide to keep packing weight down.)
The CSJ guide is good because it does state where to keep to the road in bad weather and Gronze has the elevations. It is possible to catch the once-a-day ALSA if needed between Oviedo and Grandas de Salime , where it crosses or coincides with the Camino. I would suggest that with your back issue that you seriously consider taking the bus from Pola de Allande or after to avoid walking over Buspol. That downhill section is really difficult even if really fit.
If you have any other questions do ask them. You can also check out the various blogs on the Primitivo.
Buen Camino

 

[Anemone del Camino]

There are several buses that leave from Santiago every day, go to Finisterre and return the same day. The cost is between 30 and 40 euros.

I prefer to eat earlier in the day, between noon and 2 pm and buy the Menu del Dia, which is less expensive and better, in my opinion, than the Pilgrim menu.

Anniesantiago, I think the price of the bus to Finisterre is a bit high. If memory serves me right, it was 12 Euros or so, return trip.

As for eating earlier and prefering the menu del dia vs the evening Pilgrim menu: absolutely! Learned that last fall on Norte - what a difference in the quality and variety you get. Great tip.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

it was 12 Euros or so, return trip

24.90E round trip at the moment.

 

[Dutch]

Flights to UK (london) on short notice is no problem. I've done it in september without any problem. If there are no direct flights, just fly via Madrid/Barcelona. There is always a flight with a free seat.

Any destinations in the UK other then London, i don't know.

 

[AnnaK]

Thank you all, some great advice there and links I hadn't seen - that looks really well put together and invaluable Liz, thank you! Great idea about the taxi to Finisterra and a good heads up re the Buspol descent. Lesley, how did you find that? Is it better with sticks maybe? I think I will be following your example re pack weights! My dog weighs about 9kg so maybe I should cart him around for a bit!

It sounds like it won't be a problem to get home so that's good.

As for the swimming, maybe time for some experimentation and my own guide! Water coming down from mountains is always really cold...

Getting quite excited now. Just have to make sure I fit the training into my busy schedule.

Thanks again. Any more tips gratefully received!

Anna

 

[Anniesantiago]

Anniesantiago, I think the price of the bus to Finisterre is a bit high. If memory serves me right, it was 12 Euros or so, return trip.

As for eating earlier and prefering the menu del dia vs the evening Pilgrim menu: absolutely! Learned that last fall on Norte - what a difference in the quality and variety you get. Great tip.

It changes and depends on the bus you take. This is probably high but I'd rather budget in too much than too little.
I still think the taxi is the best way to do it.

 

[ebrandt]

One followup to Annie Santiago's point. Some buses to Finisterre are much more direct than others. So sometimes the ride can be LONG! If you do the bus and not the taxi, make sure you check both the departure and arrival time so you don't get on a bus doing the local milk route! Liz

 

[Deleted member 3000]

 

[Tincatinker]

Does anybody know how likely it is that I'd be able to book a flight from Santiago back to the UK at short notice?

If you do find yourself needing a short booked flight check out flights from A Coruna (easily accessed by bus from Santiago) into Heathrow

 

[docpam]

Hello! I'm new to the forum and am planning my first Camino walk - the Primitivo, Oviedo to Santiago in May 2015.

Firstly this forum has already been so interesting, useful and informative - thank you so much to all contributors! And I apologise in advance if some of my questions have already been discussed and I've missed them.

I'm planning to do the route in 13 days including a day off in Lugo so that averages 25km most days. I do hope I'm not overestimating my capabilities - I am 55 and have a spinal fusion; I am used to walking trails in the UK including Scotland and other mountainous areas but not on so many consecutive days carrying a pack. I intend to train of course. However if I find I'm slower I don't want to get stressed about missing a flight home. Does anybody know how likely it is that I'd be able to book a flight from Santiago back to the UK at short notice?

Also - I'd love to see Finisterre but can't extend my trip that long - are there public transport options from Santiago to make the trip in a day?

I have read a lot about the eating possibilities but am still wondering about eating at albergues that have a kitchen but not a bar, or a shop nearby, where they offer common meals or it's suggested you get food in the previous town. This is probably a silly question but I wonder how to know what to buy and how much in such cases. Not keen on walking with big bags of groceries but how to know what might be needed to produce a hot meal... Even how many people will be there?!

Lastly - I'm a keen wild swimmer and wonder if anyone knows if there are particular spots on the route that might be good for a dip - river pools or lakes with access.... would be the icing on the cake (I hope in May not literally "icing")

Best, Anna

I hope to start from Oviedo on 26 May. I intend walking under 20kms per day. I went to http://www.urcamino.com/ to help with the planning. I have the Cicerone book and have ordered the CSJ book. I am currently walking 5kms every day and usually 15-20 on a Sunday.
When are you starting?

 

[AnnaK]

I expect to start walking on either 21st or 28th May. My stages are mostly 25km (some a bit more). I may catch you up on the way - if I can cope!

 

[Pelegrin]

Hi Anna and welcome to the forum.
Trying to respond to your question about swimming
In the Primitivo you'll find quite a few little rivers but not deep enough to swim.
In first satage river Nalón is deep but i think is not safe and clean, instead you have a swimming pool in Grado (climatized)
In second stage you'll find river Narcea in Cornellana, wide but not deep enough, but you could ask someone if there is any pool in the river.
Then, you have swimming pools in Tineo (not sure), Pola de Allande and Grandas de Salime.
In Lugo you have the fantastic river Miño, but as far as I know it wouldn´t be easy to have a bath (anyway you can ask).There is a municipal project to build a fluvial beach, but probably the beach wouldn´t be available this summer .

http://elprogreso.galiciae.com/nova...go-renuncia-retoque-proclama-concello?lang=es

 

[peregrina2000]

One followup to Annie Santiago's point. Some buses to Finisterre are much more direct than others. So sometimes the ride can be LONG! If you do the bus and not the taxi, make sure you check both the departure and arrival time so you don't get on a bus doing the local milk route! Liz

There are actually two buses companies making the trip from Finisterre to Santiago. The longer route is the one run by Castromil that falcon's screen shot above shows. This is the bus information that you will get from the tourist office in Santiago. But there is also another bus that is quite a bit shorter. It requires a change, which may be why many non-Spanish speaking pilgrims don't want to take it. But the change is simple. You get off the bus and stand on the side of the road and another bus comes right behind and picks you up. If you can say Santiago, you will be fine. It doesn't have the pretty drive along the rias to Muros, though. It also has a stop at that big Juan XXIII parking lot, which is very close to the cathedral, so that makes it a little quicker, too.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hello! I'm new to the forum and am planning my first Camino walk - the Primitivo, Oviedo to Santiago in May 2015.

I have read a lot about the eating possibilities but am still wondering about eating at albergues that have a kitchen but not a bar, or a shop nearby, where they offer common meals or it's suggested you get food in the previous town. This is probably a silly question but I wonder how to know what to buy and how much in such cases. Not keen on walking with big bags of groceries but how to know what might be needed to produce a hot meal... Even how many people will be there?!

Best, Anna

Hi, Anna, welcome to the forum, you will love the Primitivo, it's just as beautiful as everyone says.

The food question is not silly, but in my experience, things always work out and one of several things happens - everyone chips in whatever food they have in their packs, and somehow a feast emerges; several people happen to meet up in the grocery store and divide things up and when you get to the albergue you feel like a freeloader, but then learn the next day when you're the one whose bought the food that it all evens out over the walk; or since you can't buy one or two servings of pasta or some other ingredient, you make a big pot to share and others contribute other stuff; but don't worry it always works out.

Specifically talking about the Primitivo, the albergue in San Juan de Villapanada is about 5 km uphill from Grado with no food store nearby. The hospitalero makes the meal, and people just contribute bits and pieces. He may even be down in Salas when you arrive, and he'll tell you what to bring! (BTW, no need to go to the first store you see coming into Salas, thinking it may be the only game in town, there are several further on to lighten the load a bit).

The meal in Bodenaya is prepared by Alejandro, and the only contribution he asks for is that you be generous in the "donativo box" on the way out in the morning, to cover your bed, his washing your clothes, your dinner, and your breakfast (and if you're lucky he'll do some magic tricks after dinner!).

Some of the municipal albergues along the way dont' have food stores (Berducedo, La Mesa, probably others), and there you'll be on your own without the hospitalero doing the cooking.

So, in general, I think that if you haven't made plans, just have some food for yourself and if there's no grocery store nearby, you'll either eat out or use the occasion to use up the uneaten bits and pieces in your bag. Food stores and restaurants are not in short supply on the Primitivo, and pilgrims are generous with their food. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[ebrandt]

Laurie -- did you mean that San Juan Villapanada is up the hill from Grade (not Salas)? Liz

 

[peregrina2000]

Laurie -- did you mean that San Juan Villapanada is up the hill from Grade (not Salas)? Liz

Oops, so sorry. I always mix those two up. You are so right. It up the hill from Grado. I've edited the post. Thanks, Liz

 

[Pelegrin]

Hi Anna and welcome to the forum.
Trying to respond to your question about swimming
In the Primitivo you'll find quite a few little rivers but not deep enough to swim.
In first satage river Nalón is deep but i think is not safe and clean, instead you have a swimming pool in Grado (climatized)
In second stage you'll find river Narcea in Cornellana, wide but not deep enough, but you could ask someone if there is any pool in the river.
Then, you have swimming pools in Tineo (not sure), Pola de Allande and Grandas de Salime.
In Lugo you have the fantastic river Miño, but as far as I know it wouldn´t be easy to have a bath (anyway you can ask).There is a municipal project to build a fluvial beach, but probably the beach wouldn´t be available this summer .

http://elprogreso.galiciae.com/nova...go-renuncia-retoque-proclama-concello?lang=es

....... I forgot river Navia, big dam before Grandas, but I couldn´t find on Internet any aesy way to get to the river bank, I don´t even know if bath is allowed. Maybe you can ask at the hotel near the dam.

 

[peregrina2000]

Well, Pelegrin, is it possible that there's a place to jump in before you cross the dam, near where the submerged town (one of many, I know) is?

 

[Tia Valeria]

The track to the old village is marked, but it is a long detour as it only goes to the lake and then you have to return to follow the Camino waymarking. Not recommended. It might be possible to swim from the Hotel at El Salto if staying as a guest. It looks as though their terrace might have access to the water. I suspect that anywhere the water will be bitterly cold as it will be melt-water at that time of year.

 

[peregrina2000]

The track to the old village is marked, but it is a long detour as it only goes to the lake and then you have to return to follow the Camino waymarking. Not recommended. It might be possible to swim from the Hotel at El Salto if staying as a guest. It looks as though their terrace might have access to the water. I suspect that anywhere the water will be bitterly cold as it will be melt-water at that time of year.

Tia, did you take the track to the old village? What was there? Why don't you recommend it?

 

[Tia Valeria]

Tia, did you take the track to the old village? What was there? Why don't you recommend it?

We took the advice in the CSJ guide which is not to follow the old wooden sign to Salime - it points downhill as one descends Buspol and is before the 6km sign for the GR route. The reason being that
a) it now goes nowhere as Salime is a drowned village. There might be one or two houses but not a community as such
b)you cannot cross the lake and would have to climb Buspol again back to the Camino
c) it is as steep, or steeper, than the proper descent of Buspol - and that is hard enough without making a detour
I suspect that not only is it totally isolated but that it may well lack any mobile signal and so it could be impossible to call for help if needed and there will be no passing pilgrims.

So - to answer your first question last - no we didn't, but took the guide books advice.

 

[laurap]

Anna--

Regarding the food question (I'm always worried about not having enough food on pilgrimage for some reason)--I'd echo Laurie that food on the route tends to work out just fine. I remember walking into Grado on a Monday, planning to buy food for San Juan de Villapañada, only to learn all of the food shops in Grado are closed on Mondays! I managed to purchase a baguette from one of the bars in town, but when I arrived in SJdV, we all pitched in with what we'd brought, and made food with the hospitalero.

I do find it to be helpful to always have some food with me, just in case. For me sometimes that is fruit or vegetables (since I know I'll be unhappy if I don't get enough of those in my diet) or something high-calorie like chocolate or nuts or cheese if I know I might need an energy boost. Everyone is different, so determining what you'll want to carry is somewhat personal.

I think most of the albergues do have something nearby--the exceptions might be La Mesa and As Seixas (although there is a new bar in As Seixas, which probably provides meals). The hospitalero in La Mesa offers a few basic provisions for purchase (pasta, tomato sauce, butter, cheese, coffee, etc.)--although these may just be available in the summer. In La Mesa there is also a food truck that stops around 4pm on Tuesdays and Fridays. I believe there is also a food truck that comes to As Seixas most evenings.

Enjoy!

 

[giedre]

Hello! Didn't want to start new thread 'cause mine starts quite the same as AnnaK I'm new to the forum and me and my husband are planning our first Camino walk - the Primitivo, Oviedo to Santiago starting in May 2nd, hoping for a nice end at 22nd (including walking to Finisterre and Muxia). We are not very experienced, our goal is just to clear our minds... Read a lot about Caminos and finally we decided to take Primitivo.
I have a few questions that are really bothering us I've read a lot here and found lots of useful information but I can't find anything considering weather in May. Is it all rainy days and cold? What should we bring with us, what kind of clothes? I'm looking to buy a new jacket now, but don't know how warm\light it should be. Atleast I'm happy with my new hiking shoes
We are planning a really REALLY small budget journey. Will we find working albergues along the way? If there's no kitchen in albergue it means that we should eat somewhere in town?
Few more questions We are landing in Barcelona ('cause of the cheapiest flights), what's the best way to get to Oviedo? How's hitchhiking in this part of Spain? We are planning to catch a flight from Madrid after walking Camino ('cause it's the cheapiest ), whats the cheapiest way to go from Santiago to Madrid?

Will be very happy if you calm our minds...

Giedre

 

[Dutch]

Cheapest to get from SdC to Madrid will probably be bus or train. Train can be about 20-30 euro pp. Depending on what train you take, the duration can be 5/6 hours upto almost 10 hours. You can buy traintickets or get info right nextdoor of the pilgrimoffice in SdC.

Also check out the flight though. Sometimes you can fly for as little as 19 euros pp with one of the pricefighters, if you dont have checked luggage.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Hola and welcome @giedre. We have walked in May, at about the same dates. It can be really cold, especially early in the morning and after dark. It can be quite hot, especially later in the month. It all depends on the weather in any particular year. If you plan to dress in layers then this isn't a problem. Waterprooofs are essential and IMO if you have waterproof breathable trousers, not gaiters, you can start with them on when it is cold and easily remove them as the day warms up. Poncho or jacket is a personal preference, we prefer ponchos and take two fleeces. Check out our blogs and the other Primitivo threads for more detailed answers and feel free to keep the questions coming, and if you neeed to then start a new thread.
Buen Camino

 

[dougfitz]

Few more questions We are landing in Barcelona ('cause of the cheapiest flights), what's the best way to get to Oviedo? How's hitchhiking in this part of Spain? We are planning to catch a flight from Madrid after walking Camino ('cause it's the cheapiest ), whats the cheapiest way to go from Santiago to Madrid?

Will be very happy if you calm our minds...

Giedre

If you haven't already booked your flights, you might want to reassess the costs including all the costs of getting around, including the cost of travel from Barcelona to Oviedo and SDC to Madrid, and then compare that to more direct options.

 

[KinkyOne]

We are landing in Barcelona ('cause of the cheapiest flights), what's the best way to get to Oviedo? How's hitchhiking in this part of Spain? We are planning to catch a flight from Madrid after walking Camino ('cause it's the cheapiest ), whats the cheapiest way to go from Santiago to Madrid?

Hi, Giedre,

I assume you're from Lithuania because of your name (have a good friend with the same name ). If that's really so why don't you fly from Vilnius to Madrid both directions? With approximately 2 weeks window the Ryanair tickets per person are around 90€. Furthermore from Barcelona to Oviedo you would have to change train in Leon and there are only 3 trains per day in March (May schedule doesn't shows yet), whereas from Madrid you have 7 trains and only three with changing (Valladolid, Leon) the others are direct. Also you cut train ride time in half that way.
I searched airfares through: www.skyscanner.com and train schedule here: www.renfe.com.

Ultreia!

 

[peregrina2000]

considering weather in May. Is it all rainy days and cold? What should we bring with us, what kind of clothes? I'm looking to buy a new jacket now, but don't know how warm\light it should be.
We are planning a really REALLY small budget journey. Will we find working albergues along the way?

Few more questions We are landing in Barcelona ('cause of the cheapiest flights), what's the best way to get to Oviedo? How's hitchhiking in this part of Spain? We are planning to catch a flight from Madrid after walking Camino ('cause it's the cheapiest ), whats the cheapiest way to go from Santiago to Madrid?

Giedre

Hi, Giedre, welcome to the forum. You've chosen a wonderful first Camino to walk. As others have said, walking in May can be a bit of every season, I've had snow several times. The Primitivo has some higher elevations, so you never know. I would be prepared for chilly weather and rain, and then if the snow comes, you'll just tough it out.

Many of the albergues on the Primitivo have kitchens, and you will find plenty of albergues (there are plenty of lists, check out ebrant's great resource here: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...tiago-and-then-to-muxia-finisterre-guide.225/

Once you get to Galicia, you're likely to find that the municipal albergues have kitchens but no equipment, so unless you bring your pots and pans, you are not going to be able to cook towards the end).

Hitchhiking in Spain is now very difficult, not like the early 70s when I hitchhiked all over the country. I was in Melide a couple of years ago with some young Spanish pilgrims. One of them was a pilot and really needed to get to Santiago because he was scheduled to fly a plane. After more than two hours standing at a busy intersection with a sign, they asked me to stand with them, thinking that having an "old lady" there would make someone more willing to stop. Well, after about 45 minutes, just as he was getting ready to hop in a cab, someone did stop and took him, but it wasn't easy. I wouldn't count on hitchhiking in Spain anywhere.

And about your travel, I agree with Doug and Kinky that you should pay attention to the costs of getting from Barcelona to Oviedo, because a cheap flight to BCN isn't really cheap if you have to spend a lot of money to get to Oviedo.

Good luck with your planning! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Dutch]

Together with two other pilgrims i hitchhiked from the Finisterre lighthouse back to town Took about 5 cars before we could hop in with a nice Spanish couple

The thumbs UP was more for fun then for the ride though haha

 

[peregrina2000]

Together with two other pilgrims i hitchhiked from the Finisterre lighthouse back to town Took about 5 cars before we could hop in with a nice Spanish couple

The thumbs UP was more for fun then for the ride though haha

Well now that you mention it Dutch, I too have "hitchhiked" a ride on a couple of recent caminos. One, the four kms from the Camino to the church at Santa Eulalia outside Lugo and once on the Vadiniense from the monatery of Santo Toribio in Liebana back into Potes. Just last summer I flagged down a car to take my walking partner about 8 kms into our destination of Aguilar de Campoo because of her blisters. On minor roads in small towns, you can always count on people to stop.

These more obviously "local" hitches are very easy to get, but I wouldn't want to try to hitch hike from Barcelona to Oviedo. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Dutch]

Well now that you mention it Dutch, I too have "hitchhiked" a ride on a couple of recent caminos. One, the four kms from the Camino to the church at Santa Eulalia outside Lugo and once on the Vadiniense from the monatery of Santo Toribio in Liebana back into Potes. Just last summer I flagged down a car to take my walking partner about 8 kms into our destination of Aguilar de Campoo because of her blisters. On minor roads in small towns, you can always count on people to stop.

These more obviously "local" hitches are very easy to get, but I wouldn't want to try to hitch hike from Barcelona to Oviedo. Buen camino, Laurie

And now your post made me think again. I happily "cheated" once also, from Finisterre to Muxia. I took a wrong turn.
I litteraly went left where i should have gone right and i ended up on a long and winding road for km's on end and i walk away from muxia imstead of towards. The walk only should have lasted an hour or two, but i was on that road for at least 3 hours and did not pass any form of life. I got so sick of it, walking on the shoulderless tarmac road, that my thumb went up. Again after about 4 cars ( there wasnt alot of traffic) a nice man stopped amd said he wasn't going to Muxia, but he would drop me in the right direction.
We got to talking and then he just decided to drive me all the way to Muxia where he did not have to go to. How nice is that!!
The car ride lasted for at least 30 minutes. Thats how far of i was. I was sooooooo happy.

When we got to Muxia he stopped somewhere inconspicuous so that other pilgrim would not see me getting out of a car hahaha. I thought that was hillarious. Then he openend his booth and insisted i take at least 2 bottles of drinks with me.
He was a salesrep for Heineken and his booth was filled with all sorts of drinks

I thought that was so awesome and nice. I was proud to tell other pilgrims i hitched a ride with a fantastic guy

Thats the camino for ya!

 

[giedre]

Thank you all for your answers! I will keep everything in mind.
Thank you Tia Valeria for the info on clothes! You helped me a lot.
As for the flights (yap, KinkyOne, departing from Vilnius, Lithuania ) we already booked a flight to Barcelona. We have few friends there, so they wouldn't be pleased knowing we are walking Camino without saying Hi in first place But we didn't buy return flight yet. There're flights from SdC to Vilnius for 105 euro and from Madrid to Vilnius for 47 euro. We started to think about taking flight from Sdc... We could spend more time in and around Santiago, especially if we fail to keep up with walking stages. All in all it's quite the same price, no? We need to do some serious calculation

Peregrina 2000, thank you! I've already printed that guide you mentioned and started to analyze it I really like http://www.urcamino.com/ as well with all the information on albergues. Are there more some good Primitivo guides? Is it possible to get some maps on the way? I myself have hitchhiked from Vilnius to Switzerland. If it's possible in Switz it will be in Spain My friend did Camino Frances last year and hitchhiked from Vilnius to Astorga all by herself. Though we really don't want to..

Thank you for your answers, you're all so helpful!

Giedre

 

[Castilian]

For bus info (schedules, fares, ticket purchase...) from Barcelona to Oviedo, take a look at the web of Alsa:

http://www.alsa.es/en

Furthermore from Barcelona to Oviedo you would have to change train in Leon and there are only 3 trains per day in March

Not necessarily (most days). The 12:10 Alvia is direct to Oviedo (no changes of trains involved) and runs daily except Saturdays.

 

[KinkyOne]

I wouldn't count on hitchhiking in Spain anywhere.

Last year in Muxia (on Sunday) I hardly finished my cigarette by the road and the car stopped. It was approximately 30th car that passed by and I was in Cee in a matter of minutes But could be a whole different thing hitchhiking somewhere else in Spain though...

 

[KinkyOne]

And now your post made me think again. I happily "cheated" once also, from Finisterre to Muxia. I took a wrong turn.
I litteraly went left where i should have gone right and i ended up on a long and winding road for km's on end and i walk away from muxia imstead of towards. The walk only should have lasted an hour or two, but i was on that road for at least 3 hours and did not pass any form of life. I got so sick of it, walking on the shoulderless tarmac road, that my thumb went up. Again after about 4 cars ( there wasnt alot of traffic) a nice man stopped amd said he wasn't going to Muxia, but he would drop me in the right direction.
We got to talking and then he just decided to drive me all the way to Muxia where he did not have to go to. How nice is that!!
The car ride lasted for at least 30 minutes. Thats how far of i was. I was sooooooo happy.

When we got to Muxia he stopped somewhere inconspicuous so that other pilgrim would not see me getting out of a car hahaha. I thought that was hillarious. Then he openend his booth and insisted i take at least 2 bottles of drinks with me.
He was a salesrep for Heineken and his booth was filled with all sorts of drinks

I thought that was so awesome and nice. I was proud to tell other pilgrims i hitched a ride with a fantastic guy

Thats the camino for ya!

Oh, a hitchhike like that would put a BIIIG smile on a my face

 

[KinkyOne]

Are there more some good Primitivo guides?

Take a peek in here:
http://www.gronze.com/camino-de-santiago/caminos/guia-del-camino-primitivo
http://mundicamino.com/rutas.cfm?id=54
http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/los-caminos-de-santiago/primitivo/

Ultreia!

 

[amancio]

wow,this turned out to be such a varied thread with so many different issues!

AnnaK, if you are going to be tight on time, you are not going to enjoy it; maybe consider starting in Tineo and skipping a couple of stages.
Cooking facilities are not so easy to find, really, but eating out is not so expensive either, and the food is GREAT, worth the extra economic effort, avoid Menú del Peregrino and be brave into Spanish food, Menú del día will be a much better choice.
Santiago-Fisterre in one day can be a loooong trip, like 5 coach hours, easily, I would not try to fit so much in one single day. If you are so determined to see Muxia/Fisterre,you might want to consider starting in Pola de Allande.
Swimming; nothing that I know of, and in May, outdoors, it will be cold. Very cold. These are salmon breeding rivers, do not forget.

And for the Lithuanian who is planning to go from Barcelona to Oviedo, it is not only a long distance, but also an awkward route in a way, Spain was designed so that every trip pretty much has to to through Madrid, otherwise connections are awkward and long and time consuming.

I do not mean to discourage you, but if you look at the roadmap or the trainmap in Spain, connections are complicated and distances are long.

IN GENERAL, my view is you might have to compromise in something, I think you are trying to do too much with too many restrictions, at some stage you will have to waiver something.

This said, do not be discouraged, you have great plans ahead and the Primitivo is absolutely beautiful, but it is better to face it without time or budget restrictions. It is worth it, believe me!

Buen camino!

 

[Castilian]

And for the Lithuanian who is planning to go from Barcelona to Oviedo, it is not only a long distance, but also an awkward route in a way, Spain was designed so that every trip pretty much has to to through Madrid, otherwise connections are awkward and long and time consuming.

I do not mean to discourage you, but if you look at the roadmap or the trainmap in Spain, connections are complicated and distances are long.

I agree the train route, although direct, doesn't take a more or less straight route to join Barcelona and Oviedo. Well, there's a more straight train route but isn't direct, involves a mix of Iberian gauge and narrow gauge trains (being the narrow gauge trains very slow), would require two changes of trains and one change of stations and an overnight stay in Bilbao or Santander... so for those wanting just to go from Barcelona to Oviedo, the non-straight direct route would be a far better option than the straight non-direct route.

However, I think the route by road (Barcelona-Zaragoza-Bilbao-Oviedo) is pretty straightforward and can be made all of it by dual carriageways and motorways. An alternative road route would be Barcelona-Zaragoza-Logroño-Burgos-León-Oviedo that can be also made by dualcarriageways and motorways except for part of the route between Logroño and Burgos that it's (just) a road (unless you wanted to make a detour through Miranda de Ebro in which case, if you are heading to Oviedo, it would make more sense to go via Bilbao).

 

[ebrandt]

Hi Giedre -- welcome to the forum. I made a guide for my husband and I to use when we walk this June -- its posted in the Camino Resources section and peregrina2000 included a link in her post above.

In terms of clothing, I walked the Frances in April and here in the US I live at about the same altitude as some of the higher sections of the Primitivo (although a bit further north in latitude). I think Tia Valeira's advice is good -- dress in layers. Just to give you an idea, when I walked the Frances I took the following layers: On bottom, light weight silk long underwear and hiking pants. On top long sleeve turtleneck light weight silk long underwear shirt, T shirt, Long sleeve button front vented breathable shirt, long sleeve fleece and ultra light weight packable rain jacket. I had a couple of April days when I wore all these layers , but mostly I wore just some depending on temp and whether it was raining. I probably could have made it without the long underwear shirt. I'm walking the primitivo just after you in June and I am not taking the long underwear (on bottom or top) and I'm taking a fleece vest instead of a full long sleeve fleece. But other than those changes, my layers will be the same.

Buen Camino,

Liz

 

[ebrandt]

Are there more some good Primitivo guides?

Giedre -- In addition to the online sources recommended above, The Confraternity of St. James has a great step by step guide with info about sites, albergues and places to eat. You can get it for 5 lb. at their website here: http://www.csj.org.uk/product/los-caminos-del-norte-f-camino-primitivo/. Also there is a great guide by Cicerone Press that includes the Camino Primitivo -- Whitson & Perazolli, The Northern Caminos. It will be out in a new 2015 edition later this spring and the new edition is already available on kindle. Here's the link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RVEO89C/?tag=casaivar02-20 . The cicerone guide has little maps and lots of great historical info as well as info about albergues and places to shop and eat. Liz

 

[Anemone del Camino]

When we got to Muxia he stopped somewhere inconspicuous so that other pilgrim would not see me getting out of a car hahaha. I thought that was hillarious. ... I thought that was so awesome and nice. I was proud to tell other pilgrims i hitched a ride with a fantastic guy

I think that any km you have walked without getting a Compostela gets credited to another Camino where you do get to Santiago. No? Sounds good to me!