- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2009-2022: CFx6, CP, VdlPx2, Mozarabe, more later.
Hello all, (oh well, this is a long one...)
I had wanted to do this camino for years, being a Norwegian and all that, and this year was the time. As I understood it, no guides existed, but thanks to the helpful people on this forum, I was able to piece together enough info to get on with it. I thank you all. I am very glad I did this walk, and in return, I decided to record my walk and take photos, putting together some systematic info for a guide.
Well, so I headed out of Burgos, and sure enough, my research paid off, and I was on the trail within an hour out of Burgos.
I had no problems going on: All was marked, but no other walkers. But the weather was great, and I enjoyed my solitude. There was definitely no bed race; my first overnight stay was booked, and I had all the time I needed. Tranquil.
When I reached Modubar de la Cuesta, ca. 15 kms after Burgos, it was time for are real break, with an ice cold beer. I couldn't find any markings here, but a short chat with a friendly young woman behind the bar revealed that I was actually enjoying my beer right on the camino. She pointed out my direction, and I walked on to my first overnight stop, in Modubar de San Cibrian. A peaceful stay, and a long chat with the hostess Mauri; talkative and friendly. We had a good chat about what to have for dinner, and ate together: I was the only one there. I suspect she discussed me into what she wanted to eat, and it was all very good.
Next day started early, since it was some 27 kms to go. It is possible to stay in another casa rural halfway, but I felt confident to do the stretch... I should later pay for that confidence...
Anyway, after ca. 4 kms I came to Los Ausines, and NO markers. I used my navigational skills as a skipper, and was on my way again after some stressing minutes. If you look at a waymap made by an earlier walker, Wikiloc.com, you can see that in Los Ausines, the person initially got off in the completely wrong direction, but then understood and turned. But all this is explained in my guide.
From the next village; no problems. And then I stumbled into a bar in Quintanalara for a beer, and when the friendly barkeeper understood that I planned to write a guide, he vanished as a light bolt. I didn't care: I was only enjoying my icy beer (bottle... small... I bought two). Suddenly he reappeared after 5 mins together with a man and a young woman. It turned out that there was a library in this TINY village! So I had to follow them to the library and get the full story. The rest is history, documented in my guide. Some clever marketing people in that tiny pueblo...
Anyway, after 3 more kms I felt for another refreshment and went into Cubillo de Cesar and asked for a bar. Great uprising! Half the willage ran around looking for the hostess of the local casa rural who had the keys and finally was found, and I had my refreshment (=cold beer).
Same happened here: I was writing a guide; Carmen (the hostess) needed marketing. Kind woman, who speaks well enough English to understand and be understood. Very nice people in that village.
This 2nd day was hot (+35C) and just before Quiantanilla de las Vinas, the long day in the heat got me. I started to feel dizzy, and my feet were not precicely following orders. I arrived at the bar in the village and talked to the owner. After he had gotten a picture of himself together with that crazy pilgrim/walker, he asked around for transport. It turned out that there were 3 elderly Spanish men having lunch inside, and they were going to be driving by my next stop, so they took me there by car. My own judgement was that I had been close to a heatstroke, and it would not be a good idea to continue by foot.
But first, before we drove off: One of the guys confessed he had done 5 different caminos, WITH his Parkinsons decease! When he saw my pack with the forum badge as well as the Norwegian flag, he had to put it on, and demand his buddies take pictures of him from all angles. I got me a friend for life
Anyway, when we arrived at Mambrillas de Lara, my destination for the day, the Spanish guys insisted on inspecting the whole place in order to decide if it was a fitting place for me. After some 30 mins everything had been checked and accepted, and they drove off after a good deal of hugging this crazy Norwegian walker.
Right: I was now safely installed with in Casa Rural Rincon de Alfoz, and in the hands of the hostess Ana Garcia Alonso. A very kind person, with an equally kind husband, former mayor of the village. For dinner, she made a VARIETY of dishes that we enjoyed together, while having a long and good conversation where we befriended in a very nice way.
After dinner I walked to the local bar for refreshments. I had a coffee and brandy with Dona Ana's husband, who obviously had had the same thought as I: Refreshments. Lots of locals and lively.
I had made an appointment with Dona Ana about breakfast/lunch package 08.00 AM, but she didn't show up, so at 8.10 AM I just set out for the last leg (from the day before, I knew it would be hot during the day, and I wanted to do the 1 hour climb at the start before it got too hot). It was pretty tough climbing in places, but when I had done 3/4 of the climb, I spotted a man sitting quietly beside the path, with his backpack. "Finally another pilgrim/walker?" I thought.
No. It was Dona Ana's husband. He was just sitting there in solitude 3/4 the way up the mountain, waiting for me. And 5 mins later Dona Ana showed up as well. They had been driving an alternative shortcut to be able to reach me: She came to the casa rural at 8.15, 5 mins after I had left. She was worried I hadn't had a breakfast, so she made a huge boccadilo, fried sardines (super!) and ice cold water, got her husband up, and set after me.
They then walked together with me to the top of the mountain, and there we had a late breakfast, overlooking the landscape towards Covarrubias (and everything else as well: Incredible).
Needless to say, it was an emotional moment for all three of us when we departed. I have to go back to those kind, gentle and warm-hearted people.
I then turned and walked on to finish my camino. Details are in my guide.
The food that Dona Ana had prepared for me was enough that I had huge leftovers for dinner, with a bottle of wine, in my hotel room in Covarrubias: NO WAY would I waste Dona Ana's caringly prepared food just for me!
And that's just about it, friends: This is a friendly camino where you will meet soo friendly people, and at the same time so peaceful and tranquil, completely without stress. If I ever come to Burgos again, I will treat myself to another El Camino San Olav.
I had wanted to do this camino for years, being a Norwegian and all that, and this year was the time. As I understood it, no guides existed, but thanks to the helpful people on this forum, I was able to piece together enough info to get on with it. I thank you all. I am very glad I did this walk, and in return, I decided to record my walk and take photos, putting together some systematic info for a guide.
Well, so I headed out of Burgos, and sure enough, my research paid off, and I was on the trail within an hour out of Burgos.
I had no problems going on: All was marked, but no other walkers. But the weather was great, and I enjoyed my solitude. There was definitely no bed race; my first overnight stay was booked, and I had all the time I needed. Tranquil.
When I reached Modubar de la Cuesta, ca. 15 kms after Burgos, it was time for are real break, with an ice cold beer. I couldn't find any markings here, but a short chat with a friendly young woman behind the bar revealed that I was actually enjoying my beer right on the camino. She pointed out my direction, and I walked on to my first overnight stop, in Modubar de San Cibrian. A peaceful stay, and a long chat with the hostess Mauri; talkative and friendly. We had a good chat about what to have for dinner, and ate together: I was the only one there. I suspect she discussed me into what she wanted to eat, and it was all very good.
Next day started early, since it was some 27 kms to go. It is possible to stay in another casa rural halfway, but I felt confident to do the stretch... I should later pay for that confidence...
Anyway, after ca. 4 kms I came to Los Ausines, and NO markers. I used my navigational skills as a skipper, and was on my way again after some stressing minutes. If you look at a waymap made by an earlier walker, Wikiloc.com, you can see that in Los Ausines, the person initially got off in the completely wrong direction, but then understood and turned. But all this is explained in my guide.
From the next village; no problems. And then I stumbled into a bar in Quintanalara for a beer, and when the friendly barkeeper understood that I planned to write a guide, he vanished as a light bolt. I didn't care: I was only enjoying my icy beer (bottle... small... I bought two). Suddenly he reappeared after 5 mins together with a man and a young woman. It turned out that there was a library in this TINY village! So I had to follow them to the library and get the full story. The rest is history, documented in my guide. Some clever marketing people in that tiny pueblo...
Anyway, after 3 more kms I felt for another refreshment and went into Cubillo de Cesar and asked for a bar. Great uprising! Half the willage ran around looking for the hostess of the local casa rural who had the keys and finally was found, and I had my refreshment (=cold beer).
Same happened here: I was writing a guide; Carmen (the hostess) needed marketing. Kind woman, who speaks well enough English to understand and be understood. Very nice people in that village.
This 2nd day was hot (+35C) and just before Quiantanilla de las Vinas, the long day in the heat got me. I started to feel dizzy, and my feet were not precicely following orders. I arrived at the bar in the village and talked to the owner. After he had gotten a picture of himself together with that crazy pilgrim/walker, he asked around for transport. It turned out that there were 3 elderly Spanish men having lunch inside, and they were going to be driving by my next stop, so they took me there by car. My own judgement was that I had been close to a heatstroke, and it would not be a good idea to continue by foot.
But first, before we drove off: One of the guys confessed he had done 5 different caminos, WITH his Parkinsons decease! When he saw my pack with the forum badge as well as the Norwegian flag, he had to put it on, and demand his buddies take pictures of him from all angles. I got me a friend for life
Anyway, when we arrived at Mambrillas de Lara, my destination for the day, the Spanish guys insisted on inspecting the whole place in order to decide if it was a fitting place for me. After some 30 mins everything had been checked and accepted, and they drove off after a good deal of hugging this crazy Norwegian walker.
Right: I was now safely installed with in Casa Rural Rincon de Alfoz, and in the hands of the hostess Ana Garcia Alonso. A very kind person, with an equally kind husband, former mayor of the village. For dinner, she made a VARIETY of dishes that we enjoyed together, while having a long and good conversation where we befriended in a very nice way.
After dinner I walked to the local bar for refreshments
. I had a coffee and brandy with Dona Ana's husband, who obviously had had the same thought as I: Refreshments. Lots of locals and lively.I had made an appointment with Dona Ana about breakfast/lunch package 08.00 AM, but she didn't show up, so at 8.10 AM I just set out for the last leg (from the day before, I knew it would be hot during the day, and I wanted to do the 1 hour climb at the start before it got too hot). It was pretty tough climbing in places, but when I had done 3/4 of the climb, I spotted a man sitting quietly beside the path, with his backpack. "Finally another pilgrim/walker?" I thought.
No. It was Dona Ana's husband. He was just sitting there in solitude 3/4 the way up the mountain, waiting for me. And 5 mins later Dona Ana showed up as well. They had been driving an alternative shortcut to be able to reach me: She came to the casa rural at 8.15, 5 mins after I had left. She was worried I hadn't had a breakfast, so she made a huge boccadilo, fried sardines (super!) and ice cold water, got her husband up, and set after me.
They then walked together with me to the top of the mountain, and there we had a late breakfast, overlooking the landscape towards Covarrubias (and everything else as well: Incredible).
Needless to say, it was an emotional moment for all three of us when we departed. I have to go back to those kind, gentle and warm-hearted people.
I then turned and walked on to finish my camino. Details are in my guide.
The food that Dona Ana had prepared for me was enough that I had huge leftovers for dinner, with a bottle of wine, in my hotel room in Covarrubias: NO WAY would I waste Dona Ana's caringly prepared food just for me!
And that's just about it, friends: This is a friendly camino where you will meet soo friendly people, and at the same time so peaceful and tranquil, completely without stress. If I ever come to Burgos again, I will treat myself to another El Camino San Olav.
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