A walk from Muxia to Santiago- Part 2

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 1-
After spending two days in Santiago where the weather was chilly and mostly cloudy, I was actually glad to leave as I'd been to the city a number of times before. The new bus station is really nice and waiting for the bus to Muxia was actually a good experience.

We always enjoy the more laid-back feel of Muxia, especially walking to the cathedral near the water, watching waves crash on the big boulders, and climbing the hill to the cross, which looks out over the town.

This morning was gorgeous and we left Muxia, walking to Dumbria as our destination for the night. This is considered walking backwards and needs a bit more vigilance to keep an eye on the mojones as they are always pointing in the opposite direction. The route was a combination of country lanes and dirt paths and not particularly difficult as it passed through nice forests, a few interesting hamlets, and horreos at nearly every turn. We only met one couple from Ireland going in our same direction, but about 15 walkers were going the other way.
We met a gal, Laura, from Germany, who is living in Spain. She invited us in for a drink of water, cookies, and fruit. I assumed she would appreciate a donation, but she adamantly refused to be paid; a real Trail Angel.

The day was long for me as I am slow and by the end at nearly 22k, my feet were "talking to me" with overall soreness.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 2-
We walked from Dumbria to Quintans today, a total of about 18k.

We had breakfast at our pension before we left, and later had stopped for a proper cafe con leche. A man overheard me chatting with my son and asked if I was American. Come to find out we lived on the same street in a Minneapolis suburb growing up and went to the same schools! What a freak coincidence. He was on his first Camino as a new retiree; walking the Frances from SJPdP to Santiago and now he was continuing on the Finesterre/Muxia circuit.

We had our own lunch with us and found a lovely spot by a babbling brook to eat it and rest. My feet thankfully seemed back to normal and I'm sure the shorter day helped.

This was another perfect weather day in Galicia and added to that was an overall great walk mostly on country lanes with some wide open vistas in view. We had some climbing on asphalt which brought us up near several windmills on occasion with their unique swooshing sound as they go round and round; there seem to be more of them than I remember in past years. It was a rather windy day up high, but as long as I held my hat down on my head, I didn't mind it as the temperature was great for walking.

Dinner was at our pension tonight as there were no other food options close by. We each had chiperones, and shared a lovely large salad with egg, and also a piece of excellent homemade cheesecake for dessert...oh and I had two glasses of very good vino blanco.

 

[BarbaraW]

Enjoy it. Maybe a bit late for you but I posted some time for route finding etc here:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/walk-finisterre-to-santiago-backwards-to-avoid-crowds.80226/

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Enjoy it. Maybe a bit late for you but I posted some time for route finding etc here:

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/walk-finisterre-to-santiago-backwards-to-avoid-crowds.80226/

Thank you for the link. We just finished the third day with two more to go. I see there is a lot of interesting information to read on your link. I always enjoy reading of others' experiences, so it will still be a benefit.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 3-
Today was a very good day. The uphills were gradual and easy on the feet as they were mostly on asphalt, so very few rocky paths to watch every step I take. It's recently dawned on me (after quite a few Caminos) that the country backroads have inclines that are less steep than when walking on trails in the woods with their occasional deeper valleys to navigate.

We did pass a few more wind farms, which made for a very windy day that didn't quit, but at least it was sunny with good temperatures. We had many lovely views of the rolling hills from those viewpoints, and they were often squared off with newly plowed fields.

We met a group of Aussies having a chat on the road, so asked for a photo. Then later waiting for dinner I overheard two women speaking English. One was from the UK and the other from California. I always enjoy meeting others who speak English as I know very little Spanish, and we had a nice conversation over a glass of wine.

There were no interesting towns to pass through today, imo, but there were still plenty of the interesting grain horreos. I finally had to tell myself..."do not stop to take any more pictures of horreos!", but there are always lovely flowers along the roadsides in spring and I can't resist taking a "few" pictures every day.

The "pilgrim dinner" offered here at our pension where we are staying was rather sub-par, so I'll say no more about it to keep from complaining.
Everything else about the day was great, but oddly my backpack seems to get heavier each day. We walked about 18k today from Quintans to Vilaserio.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

It's recently dawned on me (after quite a few Caminos) that the country backroads have inclines that are less steep than when walking on trails in the woods with their occasional deeper valleys to navigate.

Better late than never Chrissy! Yep, cars can't negotiate steep like legs can so the backroads are a great walkers hack for a more knee& heart rate friendly ascent/descent.

I finally had to tell myself..."do not stop to take any more pictures of horreos!", but there are always lovely flowers along the roadsides in spring and I can't resist taking a "few" pictures every day.

But Chrissy...thats the beauty of digital...snap away 'til your heart's content!
Flowers are a favourite subject of mine too; many a days plan has gone astray due to this glorious distraction. I must also confess, such is my dedication, things like rain, dogs & even one time, a pelaton of cyclists have snuck up & caught me completely unawares.
A wonderful evening pastime is going through the days pics & having a 'delete' fest. Often surprising which photo ends up being your favourite.

May your pack lighten...
xo

 

[goldie from aus]

Day 2-
A man overheard me chatting with my son and asked if I was American. Come to find out we lived on the same street in a Minneapolis suburb growing up and went to the same schools! What a freak coincidence. He was on his first Camino.

As every enjoying reading your posts. The world truely is a small place.

If you come across another meal not quite par excellence (hopefully not) just think of that cheese cake mm mm. BC

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Better late than never Chrissy! Yep, cars can't negotiate steep like legs can so the backroads are a great walkers hack for a more knee& heart rate friendly ascent/descent.


But Chrissy...thats the beauty of digital...snap away 'til your heart's content!
Flowers are a favourite subject of mine too; many a days plan has gone astray due to this glorious distraction. I must also confess, such is my dedication, things like rain, dogs & even one time, a pelaton of cyclists have snuck up & caught me completely unawares.
A wonderful evening pastime is going through the days pics & having a 'delete' fest. Often surprising which photo ends up being your favourite.

May your pack lighten...
xo

Kaz, I love your musings! I too, have "delete fests" most evenings. It's a good thing and rolls of film are a thing of the past or I'd definitely go broke getting all my pictures developed!

 

[dougfitz]

There were no interesting towns to pass through today, imo, but there were still plenty of the interesting grain horreos. I finally had to tell myself..."do not stop to take any more pictures of horreos!"

I was talking with a fellow pilgrim back home before starting out on my 2022 pilgrimage along the CP. She was quite animated about the joy she got from the different styles of horreos, how they were scattered across both the countryside and through villages and towns, and the different materials used in their construction. So I stopped for every horreos I saw, even some quite distance from the path, to get a photograph.

I don't think I appreciated how different they could be from each other before doing this.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I was talking with a fellow pilgrim back home before starting out on my 2022 pilgrimage along the CP. She was quite animated about the joy she got from the different styles of horreos, how they were scattered across both the countryside and through villages and towns, and the different materials used in their construction. So I stopped for every horreos I saw, even some quite distance from the path, to get a photograph.

I don't think I appreciated how different they could be from each other before doing this.

So true, @dougfitz, and both of you express my own enthusiasm at "all things horreo"! From the oldest of old, to the renovated and repurposed ones, and a few spanking new ones built on the property of beautiful, well cared for homes, I'm sure they are all proud of their past.

 

[Kirkie]

Have missed out for the last while, but so glad to see all seems to be well on your camino, Chris. Safe landings, again Santiago, and onwards to home.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 4-
There was a 50% chance of rain today, but the sky stayed blue and a perfect temperature all day long and into the evening. We headed out this morning after a nice breakfast of bacon and fried eggs.
It was another good day; not too windy, and the uphills were very moderate as we were mostly going gradually downhill for well over half the day. While walking, we had many lovely views and some nice forests; always such a contrast.

We are staying in Ventosa tonight at "A Casa do Boi". It is a totally renovated property with a few lovely buildings, including a restaurant, and most are the original stone structures. Although the owner spoke very little English he attempted to answer a few questions I had, and brought out his scrapbook of all the "before and after" pictures, which were very interesting and an amazing accomplishment. We have noticed similar outstanding renovations in many other places we have stayed, as well.

While basking in the sun outside our room with a very late afternoon drink, we met the other couple staying in our little building. They are from Quebec and had just completed the Portuguese Way from Porto. They speak French, but knew just enough English to have a conversation.

On the path today we met a man from Paris, and also another younger man from the Czech Republic walking to Finesterre; telling us it was a life-long dream of his.

I noticed large numbers of "bikagrino" t-shirts for sale in Santiago last week and we've been seeing many bicycles on this portion we've been on of the "circuit". With E-bikes slowly becoming a new normal in pedaling, I'm sure bicycles will continue to rise as a popular option on the Camino. In fact, I've seen quite a few of these new signs while walking.

Tomorrow will be our final walking day as we head back to Santiago for two nights before taking a train to Madrid, then on to Chicago.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 5-
Another beautiful day unfolded and it was a very short one as we arrived back in Santiago at 1:00pm, and I have no complaints whatsoever with the walk today.

We passed numerous people heading towards Finesterre today, as we headed in the opposite direction as we neared Santiago. I never saw so many pilgrims and walkers as today, and the majority were wearing day packs, but I'm not sure why there were so many.
It was exciting to see the cathedral pop-up in the distance as we approached.

Tonight we went to a mainly local hangout near our pension and spent nearly two hours chatting with a gal from Texas after we heard her speaking English. It was nice to spend time with someone from the US, and she had some interesting stories to tell.

Tomorrow is our last day in Santiago before heading home and I am ready. It's been an interesting and rewarding month having completed the Camino Del Norte after it was cancelled in 2020, and then walking from Muxia to Santiago. I was surprised at the many numbers who are walking past Santiago...
"The End".

 

[mspath]

Camino Chrissy,

Thank you for sharing your camino and wonderful photos here on the forum.
May your flight home go well.
Take care and enjoy your memories of these special days.

 

[dougfitz]

@Camino Chrissy, thanks for sharing. It has been interesting following your pilgrimage.

 

[Kirkie]

Day 5-
Another beautiful day unfolded and it was a very short one as we arrived back in Santiago at 1:00pm, and I have no complaints whatsoever with the walk today.

We passed numerous people heading towards Finesterre today, as we headed in the opposite direction as we neared Santiago. I never saw so many pilgrims and walkers as today, and the majority were wearing day packs, but I'm not sure why there were so many.
It was exciting to see the cathedral pop-up in the distance as we approached.

Tonight we went to a mainly local hangout near our pension and spent nearly two hours chatting with a gal from Texas after we heard her speaking English. It was nice to spend time with someone from the US, and she had some interesting stories to tell.

Tomorrow is our last day in Santiago before heading home and I am ready. It's been an interesting and rewarding month having completed the Camino Del Norte after it was cancelled in 2020, and then walking from Muxia to Santiago. I was surprised at the many numbers who are walking past Santiago...
"The End".
View attachment 147554View attachment 147555
View attachment 147557
View attachment 147556
View attachment 147558
View attachment 147559

Safe trip home, Chris. As said above, it has been a well documented report and a pleasure to see your photos. Till the next time!

 

[jungleboy]

Congratulations on finishing another pilgrimage and thanks for sharing it with us!

 

[nycwalking]

Chris,

Thanks for sharing.

Loved your posts.

Get home safely.

Buen camino.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Well done @Camino Chrissy...on completing your walk, reaching your goals & documenting it for everyone to share.
I'm quite certain amongst the accomplishments of this trip what you will treasure most is the time spent with your son.
Enjoy Madrid, safe trip home, then rest up!

 

[Washie]

What a lovely read. I have just 4 days in August and was planning Barcelos to TUI but I think I will do Santiago to Muxia (opposite direction to you) after reading this.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

What a lovely read. I have just 4 days in August and was planning Barcelos to TUI but I think I will do Santiago to Muxia (opposite direction to you) after reading this.

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed my updates and that you have found some positives in my writing; it's great to be an encouragement with my words.

 

[woody66]

Hi Chrissy!
I have just found your posts as i was looking for info on the Santiago, Finisterre, Muxia, Santiago path and whether i could cope with the path conditions!
Well going by your comments i will happily give it a go.

Had to cancel my May 2nd Frances due to a bad leg infection.
Flights now booked for 6th Sept fly to Barcelona for one night there (been there twice)then a flight to Leon where i start walking.
I've got 28 days so taking my time with shorter stages just in case my duff leg plays up.
Just got one question were you able to sleep in private rooms for the duration.
I want the Albergue /Hostel feel but i can't cope in a bunk rooms or shared bathrooms!!!
Really pleased you had great walk.
All the best.
Woody

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Just got one question were you able to sleeps in private rooms for the duration.
I want the Albergue /Hostel feel but i can't cope in a bunk rooms or shared bathrooms!!!

You can get a list of accommodations for each town along the way for the Santiago/Finisterre/Muxia loop at the Gronze site. Each in the list links to its own page.

Camino de Fisterra y Muxía | Gronze.com

www.gronze.com

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hi Chrissy!
I have just found your posts as i was looking for info on the Santiago, Finisterre, Muxia, Santiago path and whether i could cope with the path conditions!
Well going by your comments i will happily give it a go.

Had to cancel my May 2nd Frances due to a bad leg infection.
Flights now booked for 6th Sept fly to Barcelona for one night there (been there twice)then a flight to Leon where i start walking.
I've got 28 days so taking my time with shorter stages just in case my duff leg plays up.
Just got one question were you able to sleeps in private rooms for the duration.
I want the Albergue /Hostel feel but i can't cope in a bunk rooms or shared bathrooms!!!
Really pleased you had great walk.
All the best.
Woody

Hi Woody,
We stayed at really great, lovely places, but I would not say they had an albergue feel to them as they were all private rooms in pensions, although two of them had a separate building that housed one. We did mesh with a few other walkers though at meals occasionally.

Here is where we stayed, but we did not walk the whole circuit. I used booking.com.