LIVE from the Camino A walk on the Camino Del Norte

[Camino Chrissy]

I am excited to be heading to Spain once again to walk the second half of the Camino Del Norte. My son and I walked the first half of this route in 2016, but had decided to finish on the Primitivo at that time. All arrangements had been made to return to finish the second half in the spring of 2020, but the pandemic had abruptly halted all international travel and we were forced to cancel.

So here we are again, ready to leave tomorrow to fly to Madrid, then a train to Oviedo where we will begin the Norte, and eventually finish walking in Muxia.
We will be gone for one month, which includes a few leisure days. I'm hoping all goes well with no setbacks related to an injury either of us would have to deal with along the way.

I truly feel grateful to be able to go on another of these long treks that I love, and am appreciative of my husband for being supportive about this "hobby" I keep embracing while I am able.

I look forward to sharing my daily journal writings, along with a few pictures on the forum.

Chrissy

 

[KariannNor]

Have a safe trip and a great start. Looking forward to hearing from you and look at pictures along the way

 

[jungleboy]

¡Buen camino! Look forward to seeing your updates.

 

[Suzanne S.]

Chrissy! I am so happy for you! I'll be with you in spirit and looking forward to your posts!

Buen Camino, my friend...
Suzanne

 

[dbier]

And post about the train ride, please!

Buen Camino

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Safe travels Chrissy & most of all, happy trails...how exciting!
Looking forward to your updates...in either/both format/s
Take care & enjoy
xo

 

[Peter Fransiscus]

Enjoy your walk Chris

 

[lt56ny]

About 5k after Abadin is this treasure of an albergue. It is literally in the woods with no services around. The owners are lovely people and cook a delicious communal dinner. There is also a small amount of food to buy and breakfast is included. There were only 3 of us when I stayed in November of 2018 and it is just a beautiful and comfortable and clean place to spend a restful evening.

Albergue O Xistral | Albergue de Peregrinos en As Paredes (Castromaior) | Gronze.com

Información del albergue de peregrinos Albergue O Xistral, en As Paredes (Castromaior): Precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

 

[JerryStroebele]

While there are "too many good options" one of my three favorite albergues on any Camino is Albergue Rural Witericus, about 10 km beyond Baamonde. Also "hidden in the woods", just off the Camino to the right. Wise Pilgrim guide lists it at Santa Leocadia/Carballedo. Good food, delightful vibes. Buen Camino

 

[peregrina2000]

Buen camino, Chris!

I know you didn’t ask for suggestions, but here goes anyway. There are several real jewels along that section. I highly agree with lt56ny’s endorsement of O Xistral. It is really lovely. Some others: Casa Carmina in Muros de Nalón (in what used to be the grandma’s grocery store, I believe) (and a side trip to Cudillero is a terrific idea - it’s a touristy but amazing little town hidden in a cove); Parga Natura on the north alternative after Baamonde is very nice (the hospitalera used to be at Ferreira with Juanma on the Primitivo, but they amicably went separate ways); Abeiro da Loba is stunning (food was so-so, but the place is great — its misfortune is that it is only 6 km further on from Sobrado dos Monxes, where most people will want to stay, especially the first time — but it is gorgeous and has won lots of eco-architecture awards).

I don’t know if you have seen the coastal alternative thread, but there are a bunch after the cut-off. for the Primitivo. Especially, the high route from Soto de Luiña the high is really 5-star and perfectlly walkable despite the dire warnings given by the hospitalero.

Looking forward to hearing all about your Norte, buen camino, Laurie

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Thanks, Laurie, for all the help you offer me and your enthusiasm is always contageous! You had given me a few suggestions in early 2020, and I had transferred them as notes in my guidebook, so had recently refreshed myself, including Cudillero. I did know about the coastal alternatives from your last visit up that way and plan to take it, but the link will be helpful. Also you'd mentioned beautiful views from top of the hill in Luarca, including the cemetery. We will be visiting Tapia de C. on the way to Ribadeo, and will take a taxi hopefully if time permits to visit Playa Catredales if the tide is low, yet another of your suggestions.
We have booked all lodging ahead of time on booking.com, so can not make use of a few of your suggestions, but I know others reading this thread will take notes for future Norte's.
Here is a post I'd made on a thread where I list my lodgings after Baamonde. They looked quite nice on the booking website...
Post in thread 'Suggestions Please: Baamonde -> Sobrado dos Monxes -> Arzua' https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...e-sobrado-dos-monxes-arzua.80064/post-1129773

The first time in Oviedo we stayed at the Albergue de Peregrinos, which was very nice; I think it was a Catholic hospital in its past life.
This time have chosen to stay two nights at this really cute inexpensive place called Uria 25 Rooms. The private room and bath has two huge sets of floor to ceiling windows that look out over pretty buildings on the street several blocks over from the cathedral. Edit- There is also a common area washer and dryer and a clean kitchen for our use. I think they only have five rooms total.

Off to dinner now before "crashing" for the night as we've had almost no sleep since leaving home.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

And post about the train ride, please!

Buen Camino

The train to Oviedo from the Madrid airport was about 3.5 hours and not difficult to find it. The last half of the ride was beautiful with some jagged rocky mountains and far off stunning views. I think they may have been a section of the Picos de Europa. It was very enjoyable! Hope this helps.

 

[grayland]

Enjoy Chrissy..

We stayed on the Norte the first time we walked it.
I returned later (with grandsons) to finish on the Primitivo....both routes were great. The Norte after Oviedo was much quieter and fewer pilgrims.

 

[Youren2010]

Buen camino, Chris!

I know you didn’t ask for suggestions, but here goes anyway. There are several real jewels along that section. I highly agree with lt56ny’s endorsement of O Xistral. It is really lovely. Some others: Casa Carmina in Muros de Nalón (in what used to be the grandma’s grocery store, I believe) (and a side trip to Cudillero is a terrific idea - it’s a touristy but amazing little town hidden in a cove); Parga Natura on the north alternative after Baamonde is very nice (the hospitalera used to be at Ferreira with Juanma on the Primitivo, but they amicably went separate ways); Abeiro da Loba is stunning (food was so-so, but the place is great — its misfortune is that it is only 6 km further on from Sobrado dos Monxes, where most people will want to stay, especially the first time — but it is gorgeous and has won lots of eco-architecture awards).

I don’t know if you have seen the coastal alternative thread, but there are a bunch after the cut-off. for the Primitivo. Especially, the high route from Soto de Luiña the high is really 5-star and perfectlly walkable despite the dire warnings given by the hospitalero.

Looking forward to hearing all about your Norte, buen camino, Laurie

Thank you for the suggestion

 

[Youren2010]

I am excited to be heading to Spain once again to walk the second half of the Camino Del Norte. My son and I walked the first half of this route in 2016, but had decided to finish on the Primitivo at that time. All arrangements had been made to return to finish the second half in the spring of 2020, but the pandemic had abruptly halted all international travel and we were forced to cancel.

So here we are again, ready to leave tomorrow to fly to Madrid, then a train to Oviedo where we will begin the Norte, and eventually finish walking in Muxia.
We will be gone for one month, which includes a few leisure days. I'm hoping all goes well with no setbacks related to an injury either of us would have to deal with along the way.

I truly feel grateful to be able to go on another of these long treks that I love, and am appreciative of my husband for being supportive about this "hobby" I keep embracing while I am able.

I look forward to sharing my daily journal writings, along with a few pictures on the forum.

Chrissy

Thank you for posting, looking forward to reading them, buen Camino!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 1-
We spent the day strolling around beautiful Oviedo in low gear. It is a lovely city with a couple of great parks, a few interesting ancient churches; including Iglesia San Juan, and the Cathedral San Salvador.





Breakfast was at a quirky restaurant where the theme on all the walls depicted scenes from London, and yet not one person working there spoke a word of English; reminded me of an oxymoron.



A very late lunch brought us back to Tabla del Campillin for a platter of awesome lightly fried chiperones and padron peppers. We'd eaten there in 2016 and we were pleased to see it was still on the menu. We saw a man at another table eating this; Cachopo Minero. It looked interesting, so we ordered it, but it was humongous on a wood platter, so we ate most of it for dinner later.



I'll say good night with a couple of pictures of the lovely streets/buildings.

 

[Magwood]

Buen camino!

 

[Corned Beef]

There is a sign in the Cathedral Square that marks the start of the Camino de San Salvador. Assume you are in Oviedo to transit rather than start that one

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 2-
Today was not very exciting, although the weather was great; sunny mid-70's F by afternoon. I'd hoped when pre-planning to stay halfway between Oviedo and Avilas at the only lodging , Hotel Royal, but it was all booked up for the date we needed. I knew I couldn't walk the whole way since it was my first day, so chose to take a bus from Oviedo to Miranda, then walk the second half to Aviles. It was road walking the whole way and not very picturesque although we did stop once for a coke, and to eat the lunch we brought. It ended up taking us five hours to arrive and that seemed long enough.

Aviles is a fairly large city and I'm glad we are only spending one night here before moving on tomorrow.

Here are a few pictures from today.

 

[goldie from aus]

View attachment 145708

I so want to know what this is?? Is that chocolate sauce omg

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I so want to know what this is?? Is that chocolate sauce omg

It is layers of thin roast beef and ham with white cheese in-between. It is then breaded with a corn meal coating and squid ink mixed in, which gives it the brown color. Then it's fried and has a nice crusty edge. The fries have mayo mixed with squid ink drizzled on top. Hope this helps to either whet your appetite or makes you cringe.

 

[goldie from aus]

It is layers of thin roast beef and ham with white cheese in-between. It is then breaded with a corn meal coating and squid ink mixed in, which gives it the brown color. Then it's fried and has a nice crusty edge. The fries have mayo mixed with squid ink drizzled on top. Hope this helps to either whet your appetite or makes you cringe.

Thanks for clearing that up - much prefer squid ink mayo on my chips to chocolate If you ever get to Australia closest thing we have is parma & chips mm mm.

 

[Corned Beef]

If you haven't booked your accommodation in Cudillero, there is some very nice accommodation on the outskirts at El Pito (Casona De La Paca). There is also a great traditional Asturias restaurant close by (Restaurante Arbichera) and the Palace Selgas which is like a French chateaux (open to the public).

The Casona is one of the Indianos(?) you'll find on this coast. Well appointed country homes, built by those returning from the Americas/Indianos who made their fortunes. Not only is it a beautiful building, it's also very well run.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

If you haven't booked your accommodation in Cudillero, there is some very nice accommodation on the outskirts at El Pito (Casona De La Paca). There is also a great traditional Asturias restaurant close by (Restaurante Arbichera) and the Palace Selgas which is like a French chateaux (open to the public).

The Casona is one of the Indianos(?) you'll find on this coast. Well appointed country homes, built by those returning from the Americas/Indianos who made their fortunes. Not only is it a beautiful building, it's also very well run.

Thank you, @Corned Beef for always offering great suggestions. All our lodgings were arranged ahead of time, but we are planning to visit Cudillero on our way to. I will make note of the Arbichera restaurant and Palace Selgas, too, and hope we have enough time.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 3-
As we walked through more of the historical area on our way out of Aviles, I was more appreciative of the architecture then yesterday.

In addition to attractive buildings, there was a type of colorful quaint roads I'd not seen before, alongside local bars using many huge painted wooden barrels as tables for outdoor eating; I'd never seen so many!



The sky was a blanket of white clouds all day; a good walking temperature and we luckily we didn't have a drop of rain. We walked on quaint paved twisting backroads with pretty flowers and bushes in the yards of well manicured lovely higher end homes. I was told a few years ago that whenever a home has a palm tree out front, it is a sign of apparent wealth and status.


Continuing on, we passed through several huge eucalyptus forests on dirt tractor paths. They shed long strips of thin bark and leaves; it reminds me of giant mulch covering the floor, where no other plants seem to grow.


We ended our day outside the town of Soto del Barco at a quaint family owned hotel.

 

[Mycroft]

I am excited to be heading to Spain once again to walk the second half of the Camino Del Norte. My son and I walked the first half of this route in 2016, but had decided to finish on the Primitivo at that time. All arrangements had been made to return to finish the second half in the spring of 2020, but the pandemic had abruptly halted all international travel and we were forced to cancel.

So here we are again, ready to leave tomorrow to fly to Madrid, then a train to Oviedo where we will begin the Norte, and eventually finish walking in Muxia.
We will be gone for one month, which includes a few leisure days. I'm hoping all goes well with no setbacks related to an injury either of us would have to deal with along the way.

I truly feel grateful to be able to go on another of these long treks that I love, and am appreciative of my husband for being supportive about this "hobby" I keep embracing while I am able.

I look forward to sharing my daily journal writings, along with a few pictures on the forum.

Chrissy

Thanks for starting this--I plan on walking some of the Norte later this year so all the suggestions and comments are helpful treasures. Looking forward to hearing and seeing more of your journey.

 

[Taswegian Traveller]

How lovely that you can resume your Camino with your son Chrissy! We had booked the Camino del Norte for August 2020, but obviously that wasn’t meant to be I’m thanking God or some other Higher Power now, since having just walked from San Sebastián last week to Santander today and I think I would have died with the combination of hot weather and the seriously big hills in the Basque Country!!

I too have had the blessing of walking with my boy (21yo) and although things didn’t work out quite as he expected due to an Achilles heel injury in the first week, he has already learnt the important life lesson of listening to your body, not just “pushing thru” (which our Aussie males are always being told).

Anyway it has been an amazing 2 weeks on the CdN and on Monday he flies out ro Albania and Montenegro to continue his adventures. And as for me I will continue to Santiago but there is little chance I will catch you up, which is a shame. So Buen Camino to you and your boy and I hope you both have a fabulous time travelling the way

 

[jane tishkoff]

How lovely that you can resume your Camino with your son Chrissy! We had booked the Camino del Norte for August 2020, but obviously that wasn’t meant to be I’m thanking God or some other Higher Power now, since having just walked from San Sebastián last week to Santander today and I think I would have died with the combination of hot weather and the seriously big hills in the Basque Country!!

I too have had the blessing of walking with my boy (21yo) and although things didn’t work out quite as he expected due to an Achilles heel injury in the first week, he has already learnt the important life lesson of listening to your body, not just “pushing thru” (which our Aussie males are always being told).

Anyway it has been an amazing 2 weeks on the CdN and on Monday he flies out ro Albania and Montenegro to continue his adventures. And as for me I will continue to Santiago but there is little chance I will catch you up, which is a shame. So Buen Camino to you and your boy and I hope you both have a fabulous time travelling the way

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 4-
This was an interesting day; part tourist, part long slog. The day was overcast once again, but no umbrella needed.

We took a bus from Soto del Barco to Cudillero for a mere €1.55 and arrived around 10:30 before hoards of tourists showed up two hours later; it was as if they were all let off a cruise ship. Thankfully we had walked around out to the pier, then climbed many steps up to a viewing tower well above the town. It was a lot of fun with many beautiful photo opportunities. I will add that we were the only "tourists" wearing full backpacks and Camino garb.
An interesting old communal laundry facility.



Afterward we sat down at one of the many outdoor lunch spots at 1:00 and treated ourselves to drinks, chiperones, and Galician style pulpo w/potatoes; all familiar and all yum!


We walked out of town at 2:00 back to the Camino on quiet country lanes to start, with an occasional mile here and there walking through uninteresting newly de-forested eucalyptus trees.
The most difficult part was the several miles of ups and downs surrounding the area of impressively tall cement pilings used for a newer bridge that curved and snaked over the deep valley. As we walked there were awesome views from different angles of its 1200 meters. Here is a Link to see incredible pictures or read about it.

Viaducto Concha de Artedo - Google Search

We didn't arrive to our lodging, Hostal Paulino, in Soto de Luina until after 6:00pm. Dinner tonight was a hodgepodge straight from our backpacks.

 

[peregrina2000]

This was an interesting day; part tourist, part long slog

My reactions are easy to sum up — wow and yum. Glad you beat the crowds, Chris. We were there on a weekday and didn’t have to deal with that, but it must be a very popular weekend destination.

 

[Josep Montserrat]

Day 4-
This was an interesting day; part tourist, part long slog. The day was overcast once again, but no umbrella needed.

We took a bus from Soto del Barco to Cudillero for a mere €1.55 and arrived around 10:30 before hoards of tourists showed up two hours later; it was as if they were all let off a cruise ship. Thankfully we had walked around out to the pier, then climbed many steps up to a viewing tower well above the town. It was a lot of fun with many beautiful photo opportunities. I will add that we were the only "tourists" wearing full backpacks and Camino garb.
An interesting old communal laundry facility.
View attachment 145846View attachment 145847
View attachment 145848

Afterward we sat down at one of the many outdoor lunch spots at 1:00 and treated ourselves to drinks, chiperones, and Galician style pulpo w/potatoes; all familiar and all yum!
View attachment 145852View attachment 145853

We walked out of town at 2:00 back to the Camino on quiet country lanes to start, with an occasional mile here and there walking through uninteresting newly de-forested eucalyptus trees.
The most difficult part was the several miles of ups and downs surrounding the area of impressively tall cement pilings used for a newer bridge that curved and snaked over the deep valley. As we walked there were awesome views from different angles of its 1200 meters. Here is a Link to see incredible pictures or read about it.

Viaducto Concha de Artedo - Google Search

View attachment 145856View attachment 145857

We didn't arrive to our lodging, Hostal Paulino, in Soto de Luina until after 6:00pm. Dinner tonight was a hodgepodge straight from our backpacks.

Hi Criss,
I'm also planning Camino del Norte.
That's why I thank you for your information and inspiration.
Buen Camino.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

There is also a great traditional Asturias restaurant close by (Restaurante Arbichera) and the Palace Selgas which is like a French chateaux (open to the public).

CB, we were unable to go to the Palace Selgas yesterday; unfortunately it does not open for the season until June (thru October). I was looking forward to seeing it as it looks outstanding on the website. We did not go to the restaurant that was nearby.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 5-
Well, what can I say about today. It started out cloudy, but by afternoon became partly sunny. We left Soto de Luina by 8:10am and stopped for a cafe con leche; a morning ritual I love in Spain as I look for the first open bar.
We saw about eight other walkers today; the most we have seen so far.

We tried our best to take the coastal routes, but it seemed more often than not we were funneled in to eucalyptus forests, going up and down valleys with paths filled with many rocks; I had to be careful to not roll my foot on the downhills. There were numerous pretty clumps of purple columbine added to the drab forest floor path.
One yellow arrow said "costa" so we followed it, but we never saw any water, only more ups and downs in the woods; disappointing and tiring.

Finally, outside Novellana, we saw beautiful views at Playa del Silencio, which was our favorite area. It was worth the climb down and up and many people were there out on Sunday drives. Later on was Playa Calabon, where people were taking picnics down to the beach.

Occasionally we were on country lanes with lovely colorful wild flowers along the road and many of the homes had horreos. All were shaped in a perfect square and some were refurbished for storage and had carports below.
We ended the day in Cadavedo, a town where they have some lovely cliff beach views seen from a local park.

Edit- I have been unable to load any pictures tonight as the wifi here is not very strong.

 

[peregrina2000]

We tried our best to take the coastal routes, but it seemed more often than not we were funneled in to eucalyptus forests, going up and down valleys with paths filled with many rocks; I had to be careful to not roll my foot on the downhills. There were numerous pretty clumps of purple columbine added to the drab forest floor path.

I’m very sorry if I had anything to do with this, but I always try to make clear that it’s not the “coastal route” that you want from Soto (if you want to get off the camino), it’s the high route. Gronze has a good description and illustration. The lower route (which the hospitalero always strongly recommends) goes close to the coast but I’ve been told you rarely see the ocean and it’s a lot of asphalt. The high route is a perfectly fine route for anyone who has managed the norte till now. It’s got 600 m of gradual ascent. See the tracks here. The views down are glorious on a good day.

Hope you have a better day tomorrow, Chris!

 

[Kirkie]

Enjoying your reports, Chris. In 2019, we had to book a place for Playa de las Catedrales. No charge, simply a control on numbers. Well worth it. Had a swim in one cave!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hope you have a better day tomorrow, Chris!

Laurie, you did absolutely nothing wrong, so do not fret. For some reason I thought the words "coastal alternative" meant the opposite, so when we saw that "costa" sign, I assumed wrongly. I have re-read the pdf notes and the words make perfect sense now. I will mention that behind us all of the mountains were shrouded in fog all day long anyway, yet there was never any fog on the coast so we saw a number of beautiful cliff top views.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Today we woke up to full sunshine.
There was much better wifi this morning, so a few pics from yesterday.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 6-
Today was a good day! It had perfect sunshine, good walking temps, a nice breeze and was a shorter day, less than 20k to Luarca, when adding in a "varient" to the beach, Playa du Cueva, which was lovely. I enjoyed the interesting piles of smooth round stones thrown up on shore and picked up a couple of small ones to keep.




There was only one beast of an uphill today, passing many areas of burned trees from fires. Thankfully an area of green was a nice change from the eucalyptus.




I like the downhills and they slowly took us into picturesque Luarca, where we had dinner tonight and a free day tomorrow. All is well!



Edit-
We saw about ten walkers on the Norte today, including a few weekenders as today is their May 1st holiday; many cyclists and a few walkers out on a lovely day with their daypacks. I notice that true backpacking hikers/pilgrims all seem to speak Spanish and have their own walking partner/s and are not very outgoing, which is similar to what we experienced before on the first half of the Norte.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 7-
I'm glad we had a rest day in Luarca or we never would have seen this incredible beach my son had researched and wanted to see. It was at least a mile away from the top of Luarca where we had just climbed an easy road to see the lighthouse and cemetery with great views of the harbour. (Pic 1 & 2) After walking a mile+ further we started descending down a straight steep paved path and I wondered what I'd gotten myself into as I began to dread the eventual ascent with every step I took downward. Fortunately the reward at the bottom was worth it all and was spectacular! We stayed an hour and enjoyed poking around and sitting on a few flat rocks gazing at the incredible outcroppings.

If we had not planned for this extra day in Luarca, (thanks to a few forum members who suggested it), we would have never had the time for this amazing detour. Best of all we had it all to ourselves.

EDIT- The beach was Playa de Portizuelo; a tad east of Luarca.


We made it back in time to enjoy a menu del dia for a late lunch, and walking a different area of town along the river.
Btw, we have not had any insects bother us at all, nor have we seen any wildlife beyond seagulls and pigeons, thus far; although
dogs and cats are everywhere, as usual.
Tomorrow we're off to Navia.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 8-
We left Luarca for a 20k walk to Navia. It sounded quite doeable for me as that has always been my favorite average. The day went well; a combination of lanes, paths, and a few roads. Thankfully there were no eucalyptus forests today, and although a few climbs, nothing unmanageable. That said, it took nearly seven full hours with only a 30 minute lunch break to reach our awesome b&b Inn in Navia, which made the long slog worth it. I must be slowing down as it wouldn't have taken me that long to reach my destination a few short years ago.

Along the way, we met a family from Australia, and also two friends from Baltimore walking together so chatted with them for awhile as English speakers are few and far between on the Norte. We also saw a number of bicagrinos and several other walking pilgrims along the way.
I think Luarca must be an end stage or beginning stage for many, and I am not surprised with its lovely harbour.

It was almost too warm a day for my preference; going from partly cloudy to sunny, and then back again. Our final half hour produced a light rain, so we used our umbrellas for the first time and it was great to not be digging out rain gear for such a short amount of time.

After checking in and showering we decided to eat in our room and enjoy its balcony with views of a beautiful Norfolk Island pine and palm tree in their garden, along with the river view, instead of going out for dinner. We enjoyed vino blanco with ice, and Ceasar salads for dinner.
All in all, a good day that ended well.

My pictures are not loading; a very nice Inn, but unfortunately poor wifi. I'll try in the morning again.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Wow @Camino Chrissy, just had a lovely catch-up of your last few days (I've been away).
Apart from your honest & descriptive writing & beautiful photos, I'm hugely impressed with your dedication to posting/sending each day! I know you enjoy writing & its incredibly helpful to others who hope to follow, but is it a chore? Do you have to 'make' yourself sit down & do it? I usually post once a week-ish when away but find even that a challenge although I love to write as well. Thinking about it , it's probably easier to post daily rather than a long spiel less often, knowing it's going to take hours to do!
Oh...as an aside & in reference to your other post about 'strange Camino things',
I've worked out what the blobby creature by the camp sign is; it's your meal from Day 1!
Keep going, you're doing great...both with the walking & the posts/emails!
Take care & continued Happy Trails.
xox

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Here are a few pictures from yesterday, day 8, between Luarca and Navia. Every time we see a humongous tall bridge, (4 of them so far) we are at the bottom of a deep valley looking up. They are very impressive, but it usually means we will be climbing back up the other side.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I'm hugely impressed with your dedication to posting/sending each day!

Kaz, I am a person who paints pictures of my Caminos with words, so my daily posts can get rather long. If I don't do it every evening at the end of the day, the details fade somewhat as I lose some of the vivid recollections by the next day's walk if I don't write them down.
Glad to hear you are enjoying the daily updates. If I happen to miss a day or two, don't think I have fallen off a cliff!

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Glad to hear you are enjoying the daily updates. If I happen to miss a day or two, don't think I have fallen off a cliff!

Heaven forbid! Don't tempt fate when on a coastal trail...

 

[Youren2010]

Day 8-
We left Luarca for a 20k walk to Navia. It sounded quite doeable for me as that has always been my favorite average. The day went well; a combination of lanes, paths, and a few roads. Thankfully there were no eucalyptus forests today, and although a few climbs, nothing unmanageable. That said, it took nearly seven full hours with only a 30 minute lunch break to reach our awesome b&b Inn in Navia, which made the long slog worth it. I must be slowing down as it wouldn't have taken me that long to reach my destination a few short years ago.

Along the way, we met a family from Australia, and also two friends from Baltimore walking together so chatted with them for awhile as English speakers are few and far between on the Norte. We also saw a number of bicagrinos and several other walking pilgrims along the way.
I think Luarca must be an end stage or beginning stage for many, and I am not surprised with its lovely harbour.

It was almost too warm a day for my preference; going from partly cloudy to sunny, and then back again. Our final half hour produced a light rain, so we used our umbrellas for the first time and it was great to not be digging out rain gear for such a short amount of time.

After checking in and showering we decided to eat in our room and enjoy its balcony with views of a beautiful Norfolk Island pine and palm tree in their garden, along with the river view, instead of going out for dinner. We enjoyed vino blanco with ice, and Ceasar salads for dinner.
All in all, a good day that ended well.

My pictures are not loading; a very nice Inn, but unfortunately poor wifi. I'll try in the morning again.

Thanks for posting daily, I am walking with you along your posts.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 9-
When planning our Camino to finish the Norte, we decided to take a bus from Navia to the town of Tapia on the coast, which we did today.

It was sunny and after walking around for an hour doing a little sightseeing, we then followed the Camino out of town all the way to Ribadeo. With a short picnic lunch stop it still took us four hours to go the meager 13+ kilometers to the small hotel we were spending the night; I am s l o w.
The walking was really good and was mostly small lanes with views; sometimes of the sea, and was quite flat...yay!

We eventually saw dark clouds forming and rain far off in the distance.
The 600 meter long bridge going into Ribadeo crossing the large inlet seemed to go on forever, but I felt very safe in spite of my semi-fear of heights...whew, I was glad when we arrived on the other side. (Btw, this put in perspective the massive bridge from several days earlier, spanning a valley that was 1200 meters long. We walked under it, then had to wind our way to the top.)

Anyway, we no sooner arrived in Ribadeo heading to our hotel when big drops of rain started to fall, so our umbrellas came to the rescue. Waiting to check in, a fifteen minute storm kicked up, knocking over a couple of dining umbrellas in the courtyard off the street.

We were just in time to enjoy a Menu del Dia at a nearby restaurant before they closed up until dinner time. It was family owned for several generations, and we had the nicest conversation with our waiter, who spoke English.

We saw quite a few additional pilgrims today and several were on the bus...the numbers are growing.
If we'd had an extra day here, I'd have taken a taxi out to Catedrales beach at low tide, but the evening stayed cloudy and we did not have enough time.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 10-
Leaving Ribadeo and the coast permanently this morning, the weather was mostly sunny and breezy. Our destination was a private albergue near Gondan and only about 18-20k of walking. Gronze rated it a three out of five in difficulty; most of which came in the last half. My hat's off to those of you who are Seniors and still choose to walk 25-30k a day. I now plan a number of off stages to reduce that number.

I thought it a great walking day on narrow backroads (few natural paths though) all to ourselves weaving between a few forests and views of the countryside. I was thankful for the delightful breeze as I dislike walking in any heat if at all possible as it zaps my energy in a big way.

We walked with a man from Belgium who rode his motorcycle to Luarca before walking. He was winging the lodging and finding most things booked up. He was going to be walking 36k to sleep at a bus station in Lugo.

We stopped at a cafe/bar a little off trail as we were in a very rural area and we had large fluffy home-made omelets filled with lots of minced chorizo cooked fresh for us...so yummy.

In all these days so far on the Norte, very few churches or chapels have been unlocked. I always check them as we walk by and it is disappointing to not be able to peek inside. I was rather surprised as on the Via Francigena last fall nearly every cathedral, church and chapel were open.

A few random pictures from today.

 

[JerryStroebele]

If you didn't yesterday, today you will pass a farmhouse on your right with some goodies arranged on a table under a overhanging part of the house. The wonderful farm lady will make you fresh coffee. Buen Camino

 

[Camino Chrissy]

If you didn't yesterday, today you will pass a farmhouse on your right with some goodies arranged on a table under a overhanging part of the house. The wonderful farm lady will make you fresh coffee. Buen Camino

I'm sorry, but we never noticed a farmhouse with goodies on a table. I'm sure we missed a very nice experience of Spanish hospitality.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 11-
We headed out this morning at 7:00 am, which was quite early for us. We usually leave by 9:00 am, which is one of the nice things about private lodgings; being in no hurry to leave, and no rush to arrive in time later in the day to secure beds.

We no sooner stepped out when rain began to fall, so we scrambled to put on our Frogg Togg rain gear, including our umbrellas as we were not sure what to expect. It stopped a half hour later, and after drying out, packed it away, but with easier access in case it rained again.

A couple of hours later, we were walking along on a quiet lane and all of a sudden we heard stampeding hoofs; turning around there were two runaway horses speeding down the road towards us with no bridles or saddles. We jumped out of the way for fear of being trampled as they kept going. A minute later two vehicles chased them, blocking off their path and after a struggle, got the horses to calm down enough to put bridles on and lead them off. Whew, that was exciting.

Next, while having a coffee at a cafe in Lourenzo, about twenty motorcycles zoomed past. They must have gotten the word out to join in for a Saturday joy ride. It was kind of exciting to watch as they raced through town.

The old monastery here was not in the best condition, but at least we got inside to look around a bit. I noticed the old organ was a real beauty with its colorful pipes.

Today was another good day; possibly because it was shorter as we'd planned it about 17-18k to reach Mondonedo. The first half of the walk was often in eucalyptus forests on wide tracks; not bad going at all this time and quite nice. The second half was walking through meandering paths with built up stone walls on the sides and those paths were really lovely.

My dinner choice tonight in Mondonedo was grilled squid, which thankfully tasted far better than it looked as I was not expecting it to swim in the black ink.
We're hoping to visit the 11th century cathedral on our way out of town in the morning.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 12-
Heading out of Mondonedo this morning, we first stopped in at the beautiful cathedral built in the early 1200's. The twin organs are massive and impressive.

Heading into the countryside mostly on back roads with no traffic was a delight for me as asphalt is never a problem for my feet, and I prefer it if paths are filled with big rolling rocks, acorns and sticks to watch out for. The many sweeping views of "Galician green" were amazing all day long, combined with a few hamlets, cows and sheep along the way.

The short day of 17-18 kilometers to Abadin wasn't bad at all, especially after we met two interesting and funny Irishmen to chat with for an hour or two. Each day we tend to see more pilgrims; some from Spain (naturally), a few from Germany, Belgium and Bulgaria...and two Americans.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 13-
We left Abadin this morning on another perfect weather walking day of 21k, and best of all it had very few uphills and they were gradual. We were on little back roads and wide paths, enjoying the lush green deciduous forests without eucalyptus trees, and the picturesque pastures with cows.

A farmer was guiding about a dozen cows to another pasture, followed by two yapping dogs who kept them moving forward and corraled in a semblance of order as we coincidently walked by them in the opposite direction on the same path...Camino cows. It was quite exciting, but a bit unsettling as we tried to keep out of their way because we were nearly touching them as they walked past.

We came upon a small chapel today with the door open so I went inside. An old priest dressed in black mimed if I wanted a sello so I nodded and got it out. He went into a little room off the altar area and came back with the stamp and a small offering basket.I put in €1.50 and he smiled and said "merci boucoup"...I thought that a bit odd. The little church was connected to an interesting cemetery, so we took a look around before moving on.

We arrived in Vilalba mid-afternoon and just in time to order a delicious Menu del dia, which was only the second one we've had opportunity to enjoy in nearly two weeks. I've been ordering coke zero if we stop in the early afternoon for a break and I always ask for ice on the side.

We seemed to be in a bit of a bottleneck of walkers at times today, so numbers must be increasing.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 14-
Today was a fairly easy day of walking with only 18k, not much uphill, and only a spit of rain when we first headed out; nothing our umbrellas couldn't handle.

There were lots of backroads again and some wide paths, but what really captured my inerest were the literally miles of fences made from chunks of fascinating slate and bluestone, so I took quite a few pictures...yeah, I Iike rocks of all kinds and how they are used. I first noticed these types fences on the Primitivo.

We ended our day with a few individual Galician offerings for dinner, and shared them to try them all. We had squid croquettes, large fava type beans in a sauce with clams, a hamburger with egg and bacon, and a homemade dessert similar to a custard. All were yummy and two glasses of vino blanco rounded out the meal.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

...what really captured my interest were the literally miles of fences made from chunks of fascinating slate and bluestone...

I love fences too!...they're a great example of using what's available rather than bringing in materials.

We ended our day with a few individual Galician offerings for dinner, and shared them to try them all. We had squid croquettes, large fava type beans in a sauce with clams, a hamburger with egg and bacon, and a homemade dessert similar to a custard. All were yummy and two glasses of vino blanco rounded out the meal.

View attachment 146674

Ahhh Chrissy...for me, your meals are an epi-pen waiting to happen!

Happy trails...you must be past the halfway point by now.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I love fences too!...they're a great example of using what's available rather than bringing in materials.

Ahhh Chrissy...for me, your meals are an epi-pen waiting to happen!

Happy trails...you must be past the halfway point by now.

Kaz, if you take the squid out of those croquettes, and the clams out of the beans you should be just fine.

 

[goldie from aus]

Maybe Kaz could just have the vino.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Kaz, if you take the squid out of those croquettes, and the clams out of the beans you should be just fine.

Yep, but then the egg in the hamburger will get me...!!!
I'm such a problem child...

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Yep, but then the egg in the hamburger will get me...!!!
I'm such a problem child...

You are a problem child I would be happy to have.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 15-
Today was the half way point of this particular Camino. We left Baamonde and did not follow the normal markings; instead making our own way on mostly narrow back roads to our lodging for the night to shave off several kilometers before our arrival at "Bi Terra tu descanso zona". It is a lovely renovated rural property and we had a wonderful dinner in their restaurant before heading to bed. The menu was pureed zucchini soup, scallops in white wine sauce, fish with herbs, and homemade cheesecake. Yum!

The walk was easy and only about 18k, and it had hardly any uphills, so it was a very good day. Scenery, although not spectacular, was very pleasant as we passed by old dilapidated stone structures mixed in with some that were new. Every one has a fence around it and well cared for gardens of kale and peppers, and fields of cut hay.

The cows are interesting because they always stop what they are doing (which is eating grass), and turn their heads to stare at us, even coming closer to the fence.

Tomorrow we are off to Sobrado to see the monastery and spend some time there.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 16-
Today was chilly and combined with some wind, but it was fine by me as I usually feel more invigorated and have more energy for walking.

It was a short day of about 17-18k to reach Sobrado. Nothing was particularly remarkable along the walk, but pleasant enough. Our main goal was to tour the monastery and it did not disappoint and was the highlight of the day.

Several pictures from today.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Maybe Kaz could just have the vino.

Ahh...so we've met somewhere before...!?!

 

[goldie from aus]

Ahh...so we've met somewhere before...!?!

I love Tassie, especially Stanley and New Norfolk and .... I would have gone for the vino tinto

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Day 17-
We left our pension a bit late today at 10:15am after one of the most wonderful, robust cafe con leches I have ever had. I asked the owner of the cafe if she served any eggs she had no clue what I'd said so she got out her smartphone translate app and had me speak in its microphone. (I notice more older folks doing this feature now compared to my last time in Spain in 2019.) She smiled and said "yes". We saw her leave the premises and a few minutes later came back carrying a dozen eggs from the nearby Supermarcado. I was surprised at how she went the extra mile for us! I sometimes miss eggs for breakfast on the Camino and tire of the chocolate filled croissants even though I really like them.

We walked 22k today on meandering backward roads and dirt tracks. A lovely day and cool temp, although we had our umbrellas out a few times for short lived sporadic drizzle. Nothing truly remarkable to capture in photos today, but overall it was nice and not difficult.
I love the bluestone walking paths and enjoy seeing the horrios here and there.

Our destination was Ar"zoo"a, and is where the Del Norte converges with the busier Frances route.

We enjoyed a bottle of nice white wine in our room before heading out to dinner. We shared Pulpo, Calamari chiperones with homemade chips, and Padron peppers. They are a few of the standard items we order when we are unsure of other things listed on the menu.

Tomorrow we take a bus from Arzua in the morning, skipping straight to Santiago for a two night stay to enjoy the city.
Afterward we will be taking a bus to Muxia, staying there for two nights before walking back to Santiago in five days.
I will take a break from posting for now, and pick it back up on our walk back to Santiago from Muxia.

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Oh Chrissy... thanks for taking us along with you to this point. I imagine joining the CF at Arzooa () was a bit of a shock to the system!
Well done on reaching your incremental goal.
Would be interested to read of your son's thoughts on the overall experience if you're both happy to share.
Enjoy your well earned break/rest & we'll look forward to your next wonderful trail instalment après Muxia!

 

[goldie from aus]

That's for sharing, and can I just say, that breakie - Yum. Enjoy your quiet days. Buen Camino