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Accommodation in Torres del Rio

simpleton

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino del norte (2015)
The group that I am currently with decided that instead of staying in Los Arcos, we would continue onto Torres del Rio, to make the next day easier. When we arrived in the town, we were so relieved as it was a long day of walking and we were all starving. A woman came to us and told us to come to Hostel San Andres. She said that for €10 we would get a room shared by two people, a tv, wifi, private bathrooms... we had a look inside and it was really fancy compared to the albergues, but we told her we would try the albergue instead. The albergue was only a little way away and on the door there was a sign saying that the albergue was closed and the only place available in town was HSA. So we decided to go there, not knowing the terror that was yet to befall us.
Here are the bullet points of our stay, and why you should avoid this place at all costs!!!
- they don't give you a key to your room! Every time you leave the room you have to ask to be let back in. This felt so demeaning. Even worse was that with the security of locked rooms you feel like you can make the most of the space and be a little less cautious with valuables. After dinner hours the matroness unlocked all the room doors and left them open while we were all still downstairs, without even telling us. Alarm bells were sounding in my head...
- it may only be €10 for the bed, but being the only place in town (the local supermarket was closed so again we had no other option) we were really shocked at how difficult the staff made life for a pilgrim. I mean, difficult financially. We tried to wash our clothes in the sink as we had been doing in all the albergues before, but the matroness got really angry, and told us to use the washing machine in the basement. So we went down there and she charged us €3 per 5 items of clothing... we were so utterly shocked! Then we put our clothes in the dryer for €3 and while we were having dinner she came to us and got really angry at us because we put all the clothes in together in one load (it wasn't a lot of clothes but it was 3 peoples' clothes). It was incredibly embarrassing and everyone turned to look. The Spanish speakers in our group got really upset and said that they didn't like the way she coaxed us into going to her hostel.
- we all sat down together to eat, but two friends were running late. It was €12 for the pilgrims menu, and the food wasn't bad... but when our friends arrived they wanted them to pay immediately, before even having tried the food. This is not typical of Spain... it's not even typical of the camino! We hadn't even been asked to pay yet, and our meal was already coming to an end. Our friends were offended, and the waiter conceded defeat eventually. Then at the end of the meal, mrs matroness charged us an extra €3 on our bill for 'various' expenses. When she had left the bar, we approached the barman and he corrected the issue, after much persuasion.
- to rent a towel for one night is €4... that's more than it costs to purchase a towel...
- there is nowhere to get food, except the HSA restaurant, which only opens at 7. We waited two hours, starving, until we could get something decent to eat. Normally we would make our own food, but the supermarket was closed and the hostel doesn't even have a kitchen for patrons to use.
- being charged for every single thing made me worried at dinner because I was afraid to ask where the bathroom was in case that incurred a fee... it made for even more discomfort through the embarrassment.

I must say that the owners of HSA are not from Spain, and my friends assured me (as a first time pilgrim) that Spaniards never treat their guests in that way. For a town that can only survive off of pilgrims walking through, eating and possibly staying the night we were disgusted by the way they treated the pilgrims. I know that we don't want any special treatment, but I felt as though we were not treated with dignity or respect. I have had bad hotel experiences before, but nothing that has made me this angry because of how rude the matroness was and how she yelled at us at the dinner table in the restaurant for something that she never even explained to us beforehand! And then she tries to put more money into the bill...

I would strongly suggest that if you are walking from Los Arcos and something happens to you and you think 'perhaps I will stay in Torres del Rio tonight' find the energy to walk that 1.5km back to Sansol where I am sure you will be met with a smile, an honest matron and a welcoming atmosphere... staying in HSA is not worth it after hours of walking, when all you want to do is unwind.

I think I have just made the best use of their free wifi.

Simpleton

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It is the Spanish business model, although it usually comes with a lot more respect and hospitality. Businesses are operated for the owner, not the customer. The place is new and very fancy for the Camino, so the owner is probably in a near panic on cash flow! That is no excuse for taking advantage of pilgrims, though. I think you will need to take it in stride, or you will spend your pilgrimage in anger. Some of the extra charges are normal, though pilgrims are usually notified in advance, if only by a sign that says there is a charge for linens or towels. If you have some good translations services at hand, use them to get clear information up front. Many albergues do not want clothes washed in bathroom sinks, but they usually have laundry sinks too. Electricity is expensive, so washing machines and dryers are expensive. Over-filled dryers break down regularly, so the hospitalera was probably just being overly protective of her machine. Use drying lines instead of a dryer unless it is raining.

Try to have fun. I think you will encounter many more minor frustrations, so keep cultural differences in mind.
 
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- they don't give you a key to your room! Every time you leave the room you have to ask to be let back in. This felt so demeaning.

Thank you for the write-up, Simpleton, it’s good to know these things, as I often stay in a pension or hostal if I don’t feel in the mood for an albergue one night. Ivar’s app will come in very useful for this . . . once I have it on my android device :)

Regarding locking the doors, a similar thing happened to me on my first stay in Santiago (2012), but in this case the senora locked the front door of the pension (at all times of the day and night) so you couldn’t get out without ringing the bell for her. I was so stressed about being able to leave early in the morning to catch the first bus to the airport, and so not miss my plane, that I couldn’t sleep, believing I was in Hotel California for my sins, and that I could check out but could never leave! I spoke no Spanish, and she spoke no English, but I had somehow managed to convey to her that I wanted to leave at 5.45am, as she was waiting for me at the front door to let me out. I wrote a review on tripadvisor as soon as I could. Jill
 
Thank you for the write-up, Simpleton, it’s good to know these things, as I often stay in a pension or hostal if I don’t feel in the mood for an albergue one night. Ivar’s app will come in very useful for this . . . once I have it on my android device :)

Regarding locking the doors, a similar thing happened to me on my first stay in Santiago (2012), but in this case the senora locked the front door of the pension (at all times of the day and night) so you couldn’t get out without ringing the bell for her. I was so stressed about being able to leave early in the morning to catch the first bus to the airport, and so not miss my plane, that I couldn’t sleep, believing I was in Hotel California for my sins, and that I could check out but could never leave! I spoke no Spanish, and she spoke no English, but I had somehow managed to convey to her that I wanted to leave at 5.45am, as she was waiting for me at the front door to let me out. I wrote a review on tripadvisor as soon as I could. Jill

I have had several similar experiences over the years, being locked inside, either in a pension or an albergue. It made me very nervous, not because I needed to leave at any particular time, but because of the safety risks. This just has to be a violation of Spanish law, but I'm going to do some poking around to see if I can find out anything specific.

Buen camino, Laurie

p.s. And I cannot even fit into my memory of Torres del Rio a suitable spot for this big place. I just remember a tiny old village with an octagonal church. But then I haven't been in Torres del Rio on that part of the Frances in about a decade, so I guess I'd better get back and see what's going on!
 
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It made me very nervous, not because I needed to leave at any particular time, but because of the safety risks.
Yes, I remember looking for a fire exit, thinking I could leave that way if the senora didn't let me out, but I couldn't find one.
 
....
And I cannot even fit into my memory of Torres del Rio a suitable spot for this big place. I just remember a tiny old village with an octagonal church. But then I haven't been in Torres del Rio on that part of the Frances in about a decade, so I guess I'd better get back and see what's going on!

Laurie,

Here is their web.

I , too, had an unfortunate experience in Torres del Rio late last October during a mid-morning 'comfort stop' for coffee and the loo. In that slick new bar/restaurant/hostal after chatting with a friendly group of French walkers who had spent the night in this up-market spot I went into the ladies toilet which also served as the disabled facility. Motion sensitive lights shone as I entered and the wide heavy door automatically rolled shut without a touch. It also LOCKED in place. Eventually when I attempted to exit the door could neither be budged nor opened. No instructions were visible describing HOW to turn what in order to get out. Panic!! I loudly banged and yelled for help. Luckily after a few seemingly endless minutes the French clients and not the local staff heard my cries and told me through the door that a security agent was at last on the way. When he arrived he clicked the magic switch and the door rolled smoothly open. All cheered. I was told "No problem Senora, that OFTEN happens with this door" and my coffee would be offered by the house !! Evermore I shall be very wary of sliding doors that may lock.
 
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I cannot even fit into my memory of Torres del Rio a suitable spot for this big place.
It is a new renovation, completed about the time all the street construction was being done. It is close to the Ayuntamiento, and between Casa Mari and Casa Mariela. It borders on luxurious, and may have over-stretched the pilgrim demand for accommodations. Tourists might love the pool and hot tub, but pilgrims will head for the albergue accommodations. Off season it will be a ghost town, hence the apparent desire to squeeze every possible Euro out of customers.
 
Samos does the same thing, locked door and no one can leave before 6am. So does Cacabelos but at least you can stand out doors if there was a fire. There should be a law!
Regarding the new hostel in Torres del Rio, these places are popping up all along the Camino. New operators trying to cash in on the trade and they have agents to "chat you up" along the way before the previous village as well. Buyer beware!
 
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Remember Torres del Rio has at least four other accommodation options and so it might be prudent to check those out before writing off the whole town based on the performance of one Hostal.
I remember Torres as a lovely town with restaurants that offered variety of meals not seen on the Camino until there. Vowed to stay there next time. This being said, what were the owners of this place thinking? Too much money invested for the type of clients they will get. I can see why they would not be pleased having people wash clothes in bathroom sinks. Poor market research on their part?
 
I stayed in Albergue La Pata de Oca (April 2013) and it was wonderful. Also the Church Laurie refers to is Church of the Holy Selpulchre XII Century


Tores Church .jpg
 
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Albergue La Pata de Oca
The crew for "The Way" headquartered here, but all the footage was left out of the film. The albergue and hostal are in the renovated manor house of the local big wig. Many of the decorative features of the original building have been preserved, including tiles and bannister. The food and beverage are very good.
 
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Since you had a bad experience here Simpleton, think of how much better everything will seem in comparison on the rest of your Camino! Take it in stride and chalk it up to being an experience you don't wish to repeat.
 
I can't say that I am happy that others have had a similar experience, because this is not what you want on this journey... nonetheless, it's behind us now and I have an amazing road ahead. Today was much better in Logroño, and I have grown to be so much more appreciative! This is the best time of my life, and I don't think I will stop smiling for a long time!! :D
 
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Leaving your key at the desk is customary in Spain even at super nice hotels, not demeaning at all.
Hi, the point was that we were never given a key at all, either the OP to his room, or me to let myself in or out of the front door which was permanently locked :(
 
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Hi, the point was that we were never given a key at all, either the OP to his room, or me to let myself in or out of the front door which was permanently locked :(
Ok. That's odd. I'd be weirded out too
 
Hmmmm..... First, let me say that I do not doubt the OP's version of his experience at HSA. I believe that the OP genuinely had a terrible stay.

That said, why the title "DO NOT STAY AT HSA"? Why not just say "I had a really bad experience at HSA? Are you asking for other people to punish the hostel for your bad experience? After all, there are apperently many other pilgrims and guests who enjoyed their stay there and expressed their opinion on-line. I appreciate that the OP is trying to save other pilgrims from a similar experience but is the wish really for the hostel to be closed down because one person or group had a terrible time there? That seems drastic to me.

Maybe my reply addresses not just this post but is colored by seeing a few other "DO NOT STAY AT..." posts. Let's provide data points, temper expectations of future guests and provide feedback to hospitaleras rather than aim to ruin people's livelihoods. Peace.
 
I stayed in Albergue Casa Marilla in 2012 and it was a pleasant place. There seemed to be several different albergues in Torres del Rio. Maybe they are not all open yet IMG_8737.jpg

as it is still early in the season? Loved the opportunity to see the church pictured above by Kevin_A - a very special place indeed. It was opened later in the afternoon when someone in the albergue contacted a local woman who came down.
Margaret
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
A double at the hostal is 62E, so 10E for a bed was a desperate hospitalera trying to pay the electric bill!

The key policy was not intended to be demeaning. It is primarily to keep from losing keys. The operators can always get into your room when you are not there, so leaving the key at the front desk does not decrease security. It is a very common practice in Europe. It is rare to get a key to the front door. Access to the building is normally controlled by the concierge; you can normally get out, but you cannot get back in after hours.

Towels and linens are included in the room rate for a private room, but are never included in albergues, hence the separate towel charge. It is not "fair" to sneak it in just because a room is offered at an albergue price. It is a symptom of hospitalera remorse! She desperately wanted the income, but really did not want to cut prices as she had. Again, she was focused on HER business, not the CUSTOMER'S satisfaction -- the Spanish business model (you can even see it when you buy a coffee!!).

Food in Spain is offered late. In the major cities, restaurants open at 2100. In pilgrim towns they have accommodated pilgrims with a 1900 opening. Lunch is often the major meal of the day in Spain, and the menu del dia was mandated by Franco for that custom. I have seen an increase in charges for bread, which I find curious. Water is not free unless you specify tap water. For a menu peregrino, you can choose between water and wine (and sometimes beer). If you choose both, you will be charged. Paying for a meal in Spain is different than in the USA. Most of the time one one brings a bill; you have to ask. More common is just to go to the bar or cash register and pay. Sometimes I would have killed to pay at the beginning so I could just leave at the end!! It is possible that the restaurant was nearing closing time, and they just wanted to get the bills paid before someone went home. Again, it was focus on the business, not the customer, that Spanish business model!

Hostales and albergues are not responsible for the opening and closing of the supermercado. It is a good idea to keep some food in your pack while you wait for the openings and closings of stores and restaurants.

Central Americans own about half the businesses in Torres del Rio. I found them to be excellent hosts, but they probably have a bit of friction with the Spanish (who sold them the busineses).
 
Central Americans own about half the businesses in Torres del Rio. I found them to be excellent hosts, but they probably have a bit of friction with the Spanish (who sold them the busineses).

The last time I stayed in Torres del Rio was ages ago, but I think it was in Albergue Casa Marilla -- is that the place where the albergue opens out onto the back on a different level from the ground floor where the restaurant is?

In any event, my memory was that the family running the albergue was from Argentina. Grandma, married couple, a few kids. I also remember the hospitaleros in Los Arcos made a point of coming over to Torres del Rio regularly for coffee/meals because the young wife was very charming and beautiful. Are they still there by any chance? This would have been at least a decade ago, how time flies.

But back to the original comments about the owners of the fancy hostal. In my experience, there is a group of hoteliers across Spain just like this -- overly fussy and unable to let their guests just come and go (is it trust? is it worry about their investment?). I have found them always to be good people, but really just not cut out for the business of having total strangers coming and going every day and trapsing through their property.

Buen camino, Laurie
 
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the family running the albergue was from Argentina
My memory is a bit unclear, but I think I had a conversation with the hospitalero running Casa Mariela about him being from Central America, and how is accent was hard for locals to understand. It could have been South America. He is related to the operators of the Casa Mari. He had an program on his computer where he could type something in Spanish and the computer would speak it in English! We both were fascinated by it. He functioned as store clerk, hospitalero, bartender, and chef for the store below the albergue. There was only two of us in the albergue, so he had plenty of time for us. We had drinks, dinner, and an architectural tour at Pata de Oca, and after dinner drinks at Casa Mari, which opened at the request of our personal hospitalero.
 
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My memory is a bit unclear, but I think I had a conversation with the hospitalero running Casa Mariela about him being from Central America, and how is accent was hard for locals to understand. It could have been South America. He is related to the operators of the Casa Mari. He had an program on his computer where he could type something in Spanish and the computer would speak it in English! We both were fascinated by it. He functioned as store clerk, hospitalero, bartender, and chef for the store below the albergue. There was only two of us in the albergue, so he had plenty of time for us. We had drinks, dinner, and an architectural tour at Pata de Oca, and after dinner drinks at Casa Mari, which opened at the request of our personal hospitalero.
Casa Mari, now that sounds familiar. So there is both a Casa Mariela and a Casa Mari?
 
Casa Mari, now that sounds familiar. So there is both a Casa Mariela and a Casa Mari?
Yes, and the new hostal seems to be right between them! Casa Mariela opened in 2009.

NĂşmero de plazas: 50 (+4 en hab. dobles)
Dormitorios: 5, de entre 6 y 14 plazas (+2 hab. dobles)
Año de apertura: 2009
Titularidad: Albergue privado
GestiĂłn: Particular
Encargado: Fernando Berdeja
 
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Really suprised to hear Casa Mariela was closed - in 2003 the only bar in town was run by a family from Bolivia and they had just had a baby. A few tears later they started serving menus in an upstairs room. They then founded Casa Mariela. The baby is now almost a teenager.
Casa Mari is on the other side of town and must have been one of the first albergues in existance. It is more than adequate - this would have been open for sure as the lady who owns it lives next door but one.
How is HSA going to survive ???? eeeeeeeeeerrr.
Viana which is the next town has Palacio de Pujadas , a fab Hotel and that is not reliant on pilgrim trade.
I may still give HSA a try , just to make sure?
 
............. and you think 'perhaps I will stay in Torres del Rio tonight'

By the way , It was more than a year ago that staff at Casa Mariela told me about HSA and that , Quote " It will be a hotel with single rooms for pilgrims" .... so that was always part of the plan .... and they did not seem perturbed at all ..... San Andrés .......Bolivia? Makes sense now that the albergue was in mothballs for winter.
 
I stayed at Casa Mariela, the very same one in KiwiNomad06's photo, in 2012 and 2014 (so says my sello from 2014) and I love that family, although last year I did notice they seemed to be busier than ever. Running two places, it's possible and that makes sense. Torres del Rio is a very special place, the sepulchre is a wonderful structure and looks like it was built in our times.
Moderator, is it possible to change the title of this thread to something more positive about Torres del Rio?
 
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In view of all that has been said on this thread I find this experience kind of weird. On March 10th I emailed Casa Mariela to make a booking for June 9th. I have had no reply until this morning March 28th and it is headed HOSTAL SAN ANDRES ALBERGUE CASA MARIELA.
Nor having received a reply after a few days I booked somewhere else. but you can imagine my surprise when I opened my email this morning and found an email from HOSTAL SAN ANDRES whom I had never contacted.

It would have suited me better to stay in Torres del Rio but I will let my booking in Sansol remain.

Casa Mariela Reservado, Martes 9 Junio
Hola Fernando, Quiero hacer una reservada por la noche Martes 9 junio ...........
Mar 10
HOSTAL SAN ANDRÉS ALBERGUE CASA MARIELA
7:49 PM (11 hours ago)
Good afternoon reserve for the date of June 9 is confirmed at CASA MARION
any questions you have can contact by email or by phone 948648251
a greeting
FERNANDO BERDEJA

So obviously there is a very close connection between the two establishments.
 
In view of all that has been said on this thread I find this experience kind of weird. On March 10th I emailed Casa Mariela to make a booking for June 9th. I have had no reply until this morning March 28th and it is headed HOSTAL SAN ANDRES ALBERGUE CASA MARIELA.
Nor having received a reply after a few days I booked somewhere else. but you can imagine my surprise when I opened my email this morning and found an email from HOSTAL SAN ANDRES whom I had never contacted.

It would have suited me better to stay in Torres del Rio but I will let my booking in Sansol remain.

Casa Mariela Reservado, Martes 9 Junio
Hola Fernando, Quiero hacer una reservada por la noche Martes 9 junio ...........
Mar 10
HOSTAL SAN ANDRÉS ALBERGUE CASA MARIELA
7:49 PM (11 hours ago)
Good afternoon reserve for the date of June 9 is confirmed at CASA MARION
any questions you have can contact by email or by phone 948648251
a greeting
FERNANDO BERDEJA

So obviously there is a very close connection between the two establishments.
Hi
I Know Fernando very well, and took a tour with some friends of mine around his hotel/hostel whilst under construction. I laughed when he showed us the gym,then he explained that the building was for tourists, when it was to open.
Fernando run's/owns the albergue Casa Mariela and run its very well, with numerous pilgrims returning on future pilgrimages.he has excellent reviews and spends a lot of time phoning ahead if you need anything arranged for your next stop such as a emergency dentist appointment in Logrono etc.I have stayed on many camnios.

However it is his fathers Hostel/Hotel, designed for the tourist stopping over not your average pilgrim.and as the OP States had a difficult time which to me is unjustified considering the place is for tourist. I stayed there and had no problems what so ever, then again if I am in a such a lovely establishment I would expect item by item to be charged for washing as you do for example in hotel Akerreta just after Larrasoana where it is stated no washing of clothes in the sink.

In Albergues I often ask others to share a washing machine with me or wash a few things in the sink...in a albergue.

This years I stayed at Fernando albegrue on two camino's and visited his father in the hotel/hostel to change a 200 euro note.
and found some of his fathers new staff a a little bewildered when I was there early on this year.. I would assume they had not long arrived in The country and hotel/hostel work was knew to them.
out of interest I have stayed at albergue pata de oca but prefer casa mariela.

Fernando and his family have invest a lot of money in Torres del Rio. not just his albergue & the hostel/hotel, also the infrastructure which was needed for the good of all.

I truly think the title of this thread does a Disservice to Fernando and his efforts....and give Torres del Rio a undeserved air
 
Yes, I'm inclined to agree. One bad experience should not condemn a whole town or a particular establishment. Staff and owners have good and bad days, feedback and customer experience change operations. It is also unfair that an operator will have no idea of what is posted on the forum and has no opportunity to respond. If you have a bad experience, the first thing to do is write the owner a letter or email setting out your complaints in a fair and objective way, and suggesting solutions. The worse that can happen is a rude reply!

We do not want to censor fair comment, especially if it helps pilgrims, but in many countries publishing derogatory statements about a person can result in a court case. As this forum is available in many different countries @ivar and the moderators have to be cautious about what is allowed.

I have edited the title of the thread.
 
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