ADVICE AND REPORT ON THE CAMINO PRIMITIVO
This is Ange - I walked with a French group in July and found that the mornings could be quite chilly. Everyone gets up before six and dresses in the dark. The Spaniards would take off at 6 without breakfast and stop at a bar for cafe con leche and tostados around ten. They would then walk right through till they arrived at the Albergue between 2 and 5 depending on the kilometres. My group, being French – say no more... would have breakfast before leaving – sometimes outside in the dark, then stop for coffee when passing a bar, then stop for a picnic lunch. This ended up with us always arriving in later and on a few occasions not getting a bed. We had two small tents which we used on a couple of occasions. I will do the promised report on available camping spots in a separate note.
Anyway, my advice on the Primitivo is to bring a rectangular pillowcase to put over their pillows, and to pop your fleece/clothes into it on the rare occasion that there are no pillows. The nearer you get to Santiago the more likely the hospitalero will hand you a disposable fitted sheet and pillowcase to use. All albergues had a blanket. Some albergues only have a visiting hospitalero who turns up to book everyone in around 5pm so its first come first served for the beds. If they are closed hunt down the nearest bar for info/key.
Some of the mornings from Grado onwards were foggy and one morning it rained heavily. A warm lightweight fleece (I bought mine from Decathlon which has branches at all big cities in France, Spain and Portugal (I saw signs for one on the outskirts of Oviedo), and an impermeable of some kind will keep you dry on the foggy starts, the humidity was pretty bad and even my backpack straps were soggy.
Everyone raves about Bordenaya but to fit it in means either very short or long stages. Shorter means more days but for this part of the Primitivo maybe worth it. My suggested stages, which my group did not follow are: Day 1 Oviedo to Escamplero (9 kms). up hill above Oviedo into lovely rolling scenery. There is an Ermita with a selos that was open in July. Day 2 Escamplero to Cornellano (23kms). After Grado a climb up past the albergue San Juan de Villapanada and down into the valley and a wonderful albergue in the old monastery at Cornellano Or carry on to Salas (EtoS 37?)– mountain town with a river running right through – the new albergue is in a modern apartment block over the river in the new part of town and the nearby bars have the key not many beds. Day 3 Cornellano to Bordenaya (16kms)– a short stage but so worth being able to stop at Alex Gonzales’ albergue. We walked past in the morning having been redirected to Cabrunana from Villapanada which was full and ended up walking several kilometres on tarmac the next morning to pick up the route again. We stopped to say hello and were given fresh milk, and morning biscuits by Alex and his family. Their little girl gave us all little yellow arrow pin badges and we shared some Pruneaux d’Agen and left some cereal bars for the little girl. Day 4 Bordenaya to Tineo or Borres or Pola de Allande (BtoT 16kms BtoB 30kms BtoPola 37-40?) Tineo Albergue is modern, clean and bars and shops right nearby. If you carried on to Salas on day 3 then day 4 to Tineo is about 18-20kms) The albergue at Borres is unattended, key in a box, full of flies but does have loos and shower, microwave and plenty of beds (no shops or bar) most pilgrims stamped their credencias and carried on to Pola. Day 5 Assume Tineo to Pola de Allande. Mud in bad weather – this is where the walking batons really proved useful to find buried stepping stones. Also the start of heavy downhills and uphills. For anyone overweight like me they allowed my arms to pull some of my weight uphill and took the shock and kept me balanced downhill, saving my knees. Day 6Pola to La Mesa nothing here so have food wth you ((20kms) Day 7La Mesa to Grandas de Salime (20kms) This stage is really hard with fantastic scenery, very little shade, and massive downhill to Grandas – don’t try to do both stages in one day. The albergue in Grandas is really bad. We booked into a pension opposite cafe La Regeida. Twin room for 14 euros each. The albergue in Castro has reopened and we went past it in the morning – they do breakfast:.(5 more kms) Day 8 Grandas or Castro to Padron (28/22kms) outskirts of village and O Fonsagrado small town. First taste of the Santiago cake. Padron was next to road; but clean with small rooms of 4 bunks but only one bathroom each for M/W.Day 9 Padron to Cadavo Baleira (29kms) Modern albergue – full so booked into Hotel Moneda (twin room 16 euros each). Day10 Cadavo to Lugo (29kms) got the last four beds – walled city lots of places to eat, shopping and sightseeing. Day 11 Lugo to St Roman de Retorta (20?) full so we ended up in Augus Santas – list given to us in the Tourist office in Lugo. Augus Santas is a district, so we nearly missed the actual hamlet with a school – no showers – it was after Ferreira with Roman bridge. Slept on the floor. If St Roman is full once you arrive on a village road after Ferreira ask someone.Day12St Roman to Melide (25kms) JOIN
CAMINO FRANCES.
The most useful information was on the site
http://www.mundicamino.com click on the yellow bar for Camino Primitivo, then start with No.1 Oviedo to Grado then click on the left Trazado/Perfil (line/outline) repeat and print off each stage. These give the ups and downs and distances which proved invaluable. I cut off the superfluous bits; but left the bottom clear and added notes on all the albergues which are available on the other pages – perhaps worth printing off the photos of the Albergues so that you know what to look for. You can then work out your stages, distances and albergue stops for yourself. Check other sites for up to date albergue info and Tourist Offices when you arrive in the bigger towns.
You will see from the profiles that a lot of the Camino Primitivo is at increasing altitudes which can make you feel more tired and sick. Be aware of this and make sure you eat – get something cooked when you can – the bars and restaurants in the villages and towns are not expensive. When you join the
Camino Frances in Melide if you like seafood, specifically octopus then the Pulperia opposite a small Ermita in the town centre is a must. No plates, knives or forks, just wooden ‘tooth’ picks, wooden platters of octopus cooked then served hot with olive oil and paprika, crunchy flat bread with ‘elastic’ centre and boiled potatoes with more olive oil and lemon. House wine was served in little terracotta bowls: Finish off with a slice of Santiago cake: Cost all in about 8 euros each. The atmosphere was incredible. Buen Camino!
