Advice on Central route May 2023

[sarahchicago]

I’m planning to walk my second Camino in spring 2023, the portugues central from Porto. I walked sjpdp to SdC mid-May to mid-June this year with my husband (31 walking days including Samos- too fast, on reflection, so will walk that route again leisurely another time). I’m planning to walk solo in spring. Here are my questions for experienced souls:
1. Does the portugues have the same big waves starting May 1 (Labor Day holiday) to mid May that the Frances seems to have?
2. If yes, are there bottlenecks where reservations are a good idea at the peak periods (like orisson and roncesvalles on the Frances)
3. Is a midweek start in the first half of May likely to mean long periods completely alone? (I like reflecting and walking without talking but prefer to see a pilgrim or two in the distance or several times a day for safety’s sake)
4. Is the spiritual significantly harder than the central? I might be in Camino shape as I get closer but I’m not sure if I will add that on. I can take about 21 days total.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions!

 

[FLEUR]

Ponte de Lima to Rubaies section (Central) has a steep rocky climb and descent. On the Espiritual Variante from Combarra to Armenteira there's steep climbing plus you then have the route of Water and Stones that is quite a scramble. However we had fine weather and managed
We are retirees and not Spring chickens!

 

[FLEUR]

End of April to mid May was when we walked and it wasn't busy. It took us 13 days.

 

[sarahchicago]

End of April to mid May was when we walked and it wasn't busy. It took us 13 days

Was it rainy? Cold? I’ll check average temps and the keep a close eye on the weather before departure but I get cold easily, so I might overpack a bit

 

[Grousedoctor]

Hey Sarah. We’re just back from having walked the Camino Portugués por la Costa (we had already done the Central route). IMHO both are great routes. Neither is particularly difficult. This time after Pontevedra, we detoured off the Central to walk the VE. Loved it! The only “more” difficult part, as mentioned above, is the climb from Combarra to Armenteira. However, the trek up is mostly on pavement. We didn’t find the descent any particular challenge and in fact a refreshing change to going uphill on quite a hot day. Your reward is Armenteira. If possible, stay in the Monestario. We had a wonderful stay there, took in the pilgrim’s mass, and then enjoyed a bite to eat at the café/bar just outside the monastery gates. The second reason to take this route is the spectacular boatride from Vilanova de Arouza to just outside Padrón. We cruised with Amare. The boat launch was no more than a couple minutes walk from our albergue (A Salazon). The unique crosses one see on the ride are well worth the effort to get there. On neither of our Portugese Caminos did we find big crowds although more pilgrims were traveling the Central route this past April/May which was evident when we connected with the interior route near Redondela. Pilgrims were not having difficulty finding beds. I know you’ll enjoy this camino.

 

[sarahchicago]

Hey Sarah. We’re just back from having walked the Camino Portugués por la Costa (we had already done the Central route). IMHO both are great routes. Neither is particularly difficult. This time after Pontevedra, we detoured off the Central to walk the VE. Loved it! The only “more” difficult part, as mentioned above, is the climb from Combarra to Armenteira. However, the trek up is mostly on pavement. We didn’t find the descent any particular challenge and in fact a refreshing change to going uphill on quite a hot day. Your reward is Armenteira. If possible, stay in the Monestario. We had a wonderful stay there, took in the pilgrim’s mass, and then enjoyed a bite to eat at the café/bar just outside the monastery gates. The second reason to take this route is the spectacular boatride from Vilanova de Arouza to just outside Padrón. We cruised with Amare. The boat launch was no more than a couple minutes walk from our albergue (A Salazon). The unique crosses one see on the ride are well worth the effort to get there. On neither of our Portugese Caminos did we find big crowds although more pilgrims were traveling the Central route this past April/May which was evident when we connected with the interior route near Redondela. Pilgrims were not having difficulty finding beds. I know you’ll enjoy this camino.

Such great information and advice @Grousedoctor thank you! I’ve copied it over to my planning notes

 

[sarahchicago]

Ponte de Lima to Rubaies section (Central) has a steep rocky climb and descent. On the Espiritual Variante from Combarra to Armenteira there's steep climbing plus you then have the route of Water and Stones that is quite a scramble. However we had fine weather and managed
We are retirees and not Spring chickens!

This sounds manageable. We walked the Frances pretty fast and had several back to back 30km+ days but I found the downhills to zubiri, after alto de perdon and after Cruz de ferro were the hardest on my still-healing shin splints. Thanks for weighing in!