Advice on Via de la Plata

[Former member 31048]

Hi, I'm thinking of walking Via de la Plata in spring 2014. I have a few questions and hoping you can help

I've read about dogs being a bit of a menace on the VdlP. I'm a dog owner and dog lover but travelling on my own on a Camino where I've read there are few other pilgrims, the thought of encountering aggressive dogs is a bit frightening. I've walked the Camino Frances twice and never encountered aggressive dogs. Trying. not to let it put me off.

I imagine the weather on VdlP would usually be warmer by late March than same time on Frances. Is that the case? Also with Easter being late April this year will that mean I may have trouble with accommodation?

Final question. Camino del Norte is an alternative. Would be interested in thoughts of anymore who has walked both.

Many thanks
Jenny

 

[MendiWalker]

Hi Jenny@zen

Dogs on the Camino Frances specially once in Galizia are so used to seeing hundreds and hundreds of people that they don´t even look at you if they are lying down. As in the Camino de la Plata as less people use it you´ll find dogs may bark. Most dogs in Spain are behind a fence or gate. They´ll just bark.
Dogs are territorial so they will defend their owners home but rarely come out from it. If they do and I say "if" and they act agressively all you need to do is have your walking pole handy. No need to raise it just use it to maintain that aggressive dog at a distance. Once you pass its owners home it will turn round and forget you.

Regarding the weather that is a mystery.

The Camino del Norte is awesome. It´s the original and less walked. you see the sea, you see forrest, you see mountains.............. but it RAINS!!!!!
I live on the Camino del Norte , I´m biased but I admit all the Caminos have their own charm and magic. Enjoy which ever one you choose.

Buen Camino!

 

[bsewall]

I had only one problem with dogs on the VdlP and it was my own fault. I was not following the trail markers closely enough, wandered too close to a farmer's barn, turned the corner and surprised two large dogs which were herding sheep. Between the loud commands of their owner, raising my walking sticks for protection and a hasty retreat, the dogs eventually backed down.

Actually, I experienced more threats from the dogs on the Camino Francais than the VdlP.

Regardless of which Camino route you are on, you are going to be in remote country settings among large animals and among dogs trained to protect livestock. When in doubt, I would take out my walking sticks and tread cautiously. The real threat was from my own carelessness - when I did not pay enough attention to my surroundings and invited trouble.

But all of this places dogs in a bad light. Overall I saw far more wagging tails than snarls on my walks (http://camino.bsewall.com/Dogs and Cats/index.html)

 

[piogaw]

never have trouble in my vdlp from sevilla to santiago this past february except on one occasion. approaching grimaldi, i have encountered 2 nasty small dogs came out of the garden and one of them bit into my pant. i believe the path is very close to the house where the dogs live. the large dogs normally do not bother you. use your walking stick for protection if necessary.

buen camino.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I didn't see one dog on the VDLP.
I did see some on the Frances and someone way back when told me that when a dog barks, simply bend over and pick up a rock.
They run.
It works.
They know about rocks. lol!
Never had to throw one.

 

[Caplen]

Hi, I'm thinking of walking Via de la Plata in spring 2014. I have a few questions and hoping you can help
.....
Final question. Camino del Norte is an alternative. Would be interested in thoughts of anymore who has walked both.

Many thanks
Jenny

Hi Jenny,

I'm interested to hear any feedback too on VdlP vs. Norte.

I walked part of the Norte way back in May 2002. As a solo female, I had a rough time of it - the waymarking was sparse, as were other pilgrims (crossed paths with only 2 others) and refugios (found few, and none open in May), the path was overgrown or hard to find or on the shoulder of busy roads. It was stunningly beautiful, but I felt lost and lonely (and not particularly safe - from nature or humans - at a couple of points). So I made it to Santander, then dropped down to Sahagun on the Frances to finish to Fisterra.

Recently, my partner and I have decided to do a Camino together in Spring/Summer 2015. I thought at first that the VdlP was the way to go, but I couldn't shake the feeling that I wasn't "drawn" to it. The Norte is apparently much better waymarked these days, with many more refugios open earlier in the season and plenty of options to get off the road on the E9. I think it is calling me to return and finish what I started 13 years ago. It will be my partner's first Camino - he likes the idea of all those mountains and ocean as well.

I think we'll start in SJPDP, and hike the GR10 to Irun, then all the way to SdC (not sure if by Primitivo, or the complete Norte - probably the full Norte, as that mean blessedly less time on the Frances) and then to Fisterra/Muxia.

I think dogs in general are managable with your stick/poles, maybe a whistle. My bigger concern on the VdlP would be all the road/rail construction.

cheers,
Adrienne

 

[jirit]

Hi Jenny

Late March through April and May is generally a great time to walk the Via de la Plata. We should normally have sunny warm days from Selville to Salamanca and slightly cooler and even rainy days as you walk through Galicia to Santiago.

This said, this past Spring was unusual where Selville experienced 5 weeks of solid rain up to the week we left (first week of April), leaving some sections of the trail under water. However when we left Selville, the weather was generally good but experienced a freak snow storm at the end of April walking in Salamanca. So be prepared for any type of weather but you are correct the temperatures on the Via de la Plata are higher than on the Camino Frances and Notre routes.

Never came across any dogs that were a concern and others have suggested you are more likely to see more often on the Camino Frances.

The bigger challenges are the distances between towns and the lack of basic facilities including even open cafes and bars as compared to the camino Frances

 

[vicrev]

I had a bad experience with a dog just out of Figeac,it started to rain (again) so I ducked under the eave of a house,lent my sticks against the wall,took out my poncho,threw it up in the air with my arms up,started to pull it over my head.I felt something bump against my leg,then I heard a low growl,looked through the armhole & here was this half Alsatian/Horse animal looking at me showing what large teeth he had.It was late in the after noon, nobody about,my sticks were out of reach.We stood looking at each other for about 10 minutes (seemed like an hour)then the buggar dog barked , wagged his tail & trotted off..........a dog with a sense of humour........I love dogs but I thought I was going to end up a casualty statistic....................Vicrev

 

[Former member 31048]

Thank you everyone for your reassurance re the dogs and other information. As a dog lover, I don't like to feel frightened of them - so more relaxed about that now.

Adrienne, I know what you mean about not being 'drawn' to the VdlP. Having walked Camino Frances in Sept/Oct 2011 and April 2013 (coincidentally both times taking 29 days), I want to go back though feel I 'should' try something different. Certainly Camino Frances was a lot busier this April than 18 months earlier. Walked with many more Americans (all of whom were delightful) and most of whom quoted The Way as their inspiration.

I would like to walk for longer than the 800 kms, so was thinking of (all or part of )Le Puy + Frances or Le Puy + Norte. That way I could decide once I arrived in SJPP. By then I would know which one felt 'right'. But then started to think it's a long time to be away from home, which led me to find out about VdlP. Perfect distance, and I LOVE Spain ... and I would probably go via Astorga and join the Frances from there. Seems the perfect fit but somehow I also am not 'drawn' to it .... at least not yet.

So reading about all of these and trusting one of the options will settle as 'right' for me.

 

[norelle]

Jenny, have you read the book 'Sinning across Spain' by Ailsa Piper? It's an account of the VdlP - the author is an Australian woman who had previously walked the Camino Frances. I have only recently read it and found it quite interesting and descriptive.

 

[Former member 31048]

Jenny, have you read the book 'Sinning across Spain' by Ailsa Piper? It's an account of the VdlP - the author is an Australian woman who had previously walked the Camino Frances. I have only recently read it and found it quite interesting and descriptive.

Hi Norelle - it's Jenny from the pilgrim group catch up the other week (must add a photo to my profile - only joined today). I remember you mentioning that book. So I will read it .... perhaps that will help me to decide one way or the other.
How are your plans going for December / January?
Jenny

 

[Former member 31048]

Hi Jenny

Late March through April and May is generally a great time to walk the Via de la Plata. We should normally have sunny warm days from Selville to Salamanca and slightly cooler and even rainy days as you walk through Galicia to Santiago.

This said, this past Spring was unusual where Selville experienced 5 weeks of solid rain up to the week we left (first week of April), leaving some sections of the trail under water. However when we left Selville, the weather was generally good but experienced a freak snow storm at the end of April walking in Salamanca. So be prepared for any type of weather but you are correct the temperatures on the Via de la Plata are higher than on the Camino Frances and Notre routes.

Never came across any dogs that were a concern and others have suggested you are more likely to see more often on the Camino Frances.

The bigger challenges are the distances between towns and the lack of basic facilities including even open cafes and bars as compared to the camino Frances

Thank you Jirit. I see that you have walked many Caminos - what was your feeling about VdlP?

 

[LTfit]

Hi Jenny,
When I returned from the Francés in 2010 I knew that I wanted to walk another Camino in Spain but was unsure which one to tackle - the Vía de la Plata or the Norte. I posted here asking veterans their opinion and remember one answer in particular which swayed my decision. Laurie (surprised she hasn't jumped in here) mentioned that the Plata had more of a Camino "feel" to her as the Norte runs through many resort towns.
I never regreted the decision and hope to walk all or part of the VdlP again in the future. I just loved the dry, arid, open landscapes of Andalucía, Extremadura and Castilla y León up until past Zamora. I didn't want to meet up with the Francés and the large number of pilgrims in Astorga and so walked via Ourense which is the Sanabrés. I would definately recommend that route which is beautiful and soooo different from the first 600 km despite a few AVE eyesores (completed this portion in August).
Good luck deciding. The jury is still out regarding my next adventure but today the Levante seems to be calling me!
Cheers,
LT

 

[MendiWalker]

Hi Jenny,
When I returned from the Francés in 2010 I knew that I wanted to walk another Camino in Spain but was unsure which one to tackle - the Vía de la Plata or the Norte. I posted here asking veterans their opinion and remember one answer in particular which swayed my decision. Laurie (surprised she hasn't jumped in here) mentioned that the Plata had more of a Camino "feel" to her as the Norte runs through many resort towns.
I never regreted the decision and hope to walk all or part of the VdlP again in the future. I just loved the dry, arid, open landscapes of Andalucía, Extremadura and Castilla y León up until past Zamora. I didn't want to meet up with the Francés and the large number of pilgrims in Astorga and so walked via Ourense which is the Sanabrés. I would definately recommend that route which is beautiful and soooo different from the first 600 km despite a few AVE eyesores (completed this portion in August).
Good luck deciding. The jury is still out regarding my next adventure but today the Levante seems to be calling me!
Cheers,
LT

Did you ever get round to walking the Camino del Norte?

 

[Former member 31048]

Hi Jenny,
When I returned from the Francés in 2010 I knew that I wanted to walk another Camino in Spain but was unsure which one to tackle - the Vía de la Plata or the Norte. I posted here asking veterans their opinion and remember one answer in particular which swayed my decision. Laurie (surprised she hasn't jumped in here) mentioned that the Plata had more of a Camino "feel" to her as the Norte runs through many resort towns.
I never regreted the decision and hope to walk all or part of the VdlP again in the future. I just loved the dry, arid, open landscapes of Andalucía, Extremadura and Castilla y León up until past Zamora. I didn't want to meet up with the Francés and the large number of pilgrims in Astorga and so walked via Ourense which is the Sanabrés. I would definately recommend that route which is beautiful and soooo different from the first 600 km despite a few AVE eyesores (completed this portion in August).
Good luck deciding. The jury is still out regarding my next adventure but today the Levante seems to be calling me!
Cheers,
LT

Thank you so much LT, that is a very considerate reply and I think will help me in my thinking. I am interested to hear what you say about walking Camino Sanabres to Santiago and hear that it is both beautiful and different to the first 600 km. I also ike the idea that I could make that choice at the time and know that either way will be rewarding for different reasons.

PS If I walk VdlP, i will probably start on 1 April - which seems to be a reasonable time.

BIG THANK YOU
Jenny

 

[MendiWalker]

If you do decide to walk the Sanabres a visit to the Monestary of Osiera is a must ( check visiting times) and the walk from there to Castro Dozon is very very beautiful , specially the part starting at the monastery .

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monastery_of_Santa_María_la_Real_of_Oseira

Buen Camino!

 

[Former member 31048]

If you do decide to walk the Sanabres a visit to the Monestary of Osiera is a must ( check visiting times) and the walk from there to Castro Dozon is very very beautiful , specially the part starting at the monastery .

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monastery_of_Santa_María_la_Real_of_Oseira

Buen Camino!

Thank you for that tip, I will definitely make a note of it

 

[MendiWalker]

Thank you for that tip, I will definitely make a note of it

If my memory is right you have a tour at 10 am.

Buen Camino!

 

[LTfit]

Jenny: as you mention, you have 600+ km in which to decide which way to follow to SdC! Instead of walking through Granja de Moreruela (junction Sanabrés/VdlP) we took a detour after Riego del Camino to visit the ruines of the Monasterio de Santa María de Moreruela, the first Spanish Cisterian Convent if I recall correctly. It was closed for renovations but we jumped the fence and a caretaker was nice enough to let us visit.

I definately agree that the route via Oseira to stay at the monestary is a must. The pilgrim albergue is quite spartan but the surroundings are beautiful and the tour of the monestary is interesting. They also have a store with their own chocolate (yummy) and orujo. If you would like to stay longer, the monestary also maintains separate lodging facilities for retreats. The hospitalero showed us the rooms and they were quite nice with a private bath. You can also participate in vespers.

MendiWalker: the Norte is on my "one day" list of Caminos but not on top. Strange though as I love the coast and visited several towns such as Santander and San Sebastian in my pre-Camino life. It looks spectacular but I am allergic to rain (get enough of it here in The Netherlands) and so tend to stay away from areas where there is a greater chance of precipitation!

 

[MendiWalker]

Jenny: as you mention, you have 600+ km in which to decide which way to follow to SdC! Instead of walking through Granja de Moreruela (junction Sanabrés/VdlP) we took a detour after Riego del Camino to visit the ruines of the Monasterio de Santa María de Moreruela, the first Spanish Cisterian Convent if I recall correctly. It was closed for renovations but we jumped the fence and a caretaker was nice enough to let us visit.

I definately agree that the route via Oseira to stay at the monestary is a must. The pilgrim albergue is quite spartan but the surroundings are beautiful and the tour of the monestary is interesting. They also have a store with their own chocolate (yummy) and orujo. If you would like to stay longer, the monestary also maintains separate lodging facilities for retreats. The hospitalero showed us the rooms and they were quite nice with a private bath. You can also participate in vespers.

MendiWalker: the Norte is on my "one day" list of Caminos but not on top. Strange though as I love the coast and visited several towns such as Santander and San Sebastian in my pre-Camino life. It looks spectacular but I am allergic to rain (get enough of it here in The Netherlands) and so tend to stay away from areas where there is a greater chance of precipitation!

The beauty of the Camino del Norte isn´t in towns like Donosti/San Sebastain or Santander. The beauty of the Camino del Norte lies in between the big towns.
Oh the rain! Tell me about it............... I live in Bilbo.

Buen Camino!

 

[piogaw]

Thank you everyone for your reassurance re the dogs and other information. As a dog lover, I don't like to feel frightened of them - so more relaxed about that now.

Adrienne, I know what you mean about not being 'drawn' to the VdlP. Having walked Camino Frances in Sept/Oct 2011 and April 2013 (coincidentally both times taking 29 days), I want to go back though feel I 'should' try something different. Certainly Camino Frances was a lot busier this April than 18 months earlier. Walked with many more Americans (all of whom were delightful) and most of whom quoted The Way as their inspiration.

I would like to walk for longer than the 800 kms, so was thinking of (all or part of )Le Puy + Frances or Le Puy + Norte. That way I could decide once I arrived in SJPP. By then I would know which one felt 'right'. But then started to think it's a long time to be away from home, which led me to find out about VdlP. Perfect distance, and I LOVE Spain ... and I would probably go via Astorga and join the Frances from there. Seems the perfect fit but somehow I also am not 'drawn' to it .... at least not yet.

So reading about all of these and trusting one of the options will settle as 'right' for me.

hello jenny,

if you do the vdlp, i would recommend you do the sanabres via ourense to sdc. the camino branched off in granja de moreruela. and the best time to do it is probably the start of april. this is where the vdlp is most beautiful. and also all the albergues will be opened. i did it this past winter started on the first of february from sevilla.

buen camino and god bless.

 

[peregrino_tom]

I made the VdlP in Oct/Nov 2010 and Norte this year in 2 parts - Irun-Ribadasella at Easter and then Rib-Santiago in August. Dogs were not an issue on either, although we had one scary moment on the vdlp leaving Puebla de Sanabria on the old route and passing a house where we roused five fully grown unchained Leon Mastiffs. Fortunately they decided not to eat us (which is what goes through your mind when you see the size of them).
My experience was that VdlP was tough but ultimately epic. The Norte I found to be a bit of a mixed bag: oh so beautiful in parts but also a victim of its own beauty - drawing all that commercialism to it and often times burying the sense of an authentic camino beneath that (which can also be intriguing - as a pilgrim seeking the Way through the domain of the pleasure seekers).
I think that with the AVE work on the VdlP and the casual waymarking in Asturias (and frankly odd waymarking in Cantabria) there won't be much to choose between them on this.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Jenny,
LTfit has given you my overriding opinion of the difference between the Norte and the Vdlp. I found a much greater camino "feeling" on the Vdlp. The Norte, as everyone has said, has a lot of stunning scenery, the coastal walks are really incredible, but if you walk it during tourist season, you will find that most of the towns on the coast are geared to tourists and not pilgrims. That's not a criticism, because of course tourists are a much more important source of revenue, but it does make the Camino feel different. There is also a lot more asphalt walking on the Norte, a lot more. But the Norte has a lot more elevation gain, so if you like climbing you may not be as enamored of the flat or undulating terrain that predominates on the Vdlp at least till past Zamora.

I walked the Norte in 2006, and the Vdlp in more recent years, though so things may have changed.

The Vdlp has a lot of variety of landscape, takes you through some very nice monumental cities (Sevilla, Merida, Caceres, Salamanca, Zamora, Ourense), and has very good pilgrim infrastructure. Springtime in Andalucia and Extremadura is beautiful. Tons of wildflowers, lots of scrub forests with oaks, huge boulders, babbling streams.

I have started in Sevilla twice, once in April and once in May. Both had very nice spring weather. There is a burst of pilgrims in Holy Week, many start in Sevilla then, and Holy Week is a big deal in some of the cities along the way so there will be crowds (but also processions and many religious rituals). For me, starting on May 1 in Sevilla was the perfect time because by the time we got north things had warmed up.

And I never saw a loose dog on the Vdlp.

I know some people have found the AVE construction to be very jarring on the Vdlp, particularly on the Sanabres north of Zamora, but if you do some searching on the forum, you'll see that some of us who walked it this past summer (me and LTfit in particular) did not think it detracted much from the overall wonderful experience.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Caplen]

Adrienne, I know what you mean about not being 'drawn' to the VdlP. Having walked Camino Frances in Sept/Oct 2011 and April 2013 (coincidentally both times taking 29 days), I want to go back though feel I 'should' try something different. ......

I would like to walk for longer than the 800 kms, so was thinking of (all or part of )Le Puy + Frances or Le Puy + Norte. That way I could decide once I arrived in SJPP. By then I would know which one felt 'right'. But then started to think it's a long time to be away from home, which led me to find out about VdlP. Perfect distance, and I LOVE Spain ... and I would probably go via Astorga and join the Frances from there. Seems the perfect fit but somehow I also am not 'drawn' to it .... at least not yet.

That's funny you say that, Jenny. The first thing that grabbed me about the VdlP, aside from it not being the overcrowded Frances, was the distance. Something about that 1000km seemed perfect. I resisted switching my brainwaves to thoughts of the Norte at first because it seemed somehow significantly shorter. But when I realized that if I start SJPDP > Irun (GR10, 100 km) > Arzua (Norte, 825-ish km?) > Santiago > Fisterra/Muxia (120 km), the walk falls at about 1100 km. Just what I was looking for.

There is also a lot more asphalt walking on the Norte, a lot more. But the Norte has a lot more elevation gain, so if you like climbing you may not be as enamored of the flat or undulating terrain that predominates on the Vdlp at least till past Zamora.

They both seem beautiful and appealing for different reasons.
It seems that the decision between the two has a lot to do with desired climate, trail profile, and stage distances & amenities.

VdlP ~ flatter profile; plains, at least up to the Sanabres
generally drier and warmer
longer stages with less water/bars/accommodations, etc (fine for strong/fast walkers)
less road walking (?)
construction issues to contend with

Norte ~ lots of ups & down, mountainous/coastal profile
wetter/rain
shorter stages, more accommodations, water and bars
more road walking (But lots of alternatives, like the E9)
more "tourist" oriented

I crave mountains and oceans, and love walking hills; I don't mind walking in the rain, but heat kills me and my skin fries easily; I am a tortuga walker - slow, with a short stride - and prefer 18-25 km stages (33 km was my very painful max on the Frances 11 years ago). So I think my choice is clear. Though perhaps the VdlP will sing to me much later in life.

Laurie, could you elaborate on the asphalt thing? I don't mind "asphalt" walking on small roads, few cars, country/village roads, etc.
The thing that scares and bothers me is walking on the narrow shoulder of a major road/highway. (Especially when it's rainy!)
Can that mostly be avoided on the Norte these days?

cheers,
Adrienne

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Adrienne,
I don't have any specific memories of a lot of dangerous highway walking on the Norte. Because Spain is so over-supplied with autovias, even the national highways are not usually very crowded.

I was just on the Norte for a short stretch a couple of summers ago when I walked a somewhat unusual route of Santander-San Vicente de la Barquera (Norte) to Potes (Lebaniego) to Leon (Vadiniense) to Oviedo (Salvador) to Santiago (Primitivo). From Santander to San Vicente there is only a tiny bit of off-road walking, and it's almost all after Comillas. That's a long stretch with no relief for the feet.

And I'm not trying to convince you one way or the other, but I think that it's a common misconception that the Vdlp has long barren stretches without accommodations or bar/cafe/restaurant/grocery store. You can walk long stages if you want, of course, but there are easy ways to split most of these long stages up.

 

[Harington]

I am two-thirds of the way between Sevilla and Santiago, just turned NW onto the Sanabrés. There is absolutely NO problem about loose dogs - just be prudent if you meet livestock. North of Cáceres there is loose cattle - the black sort sort with big horns. Sometimes there is a bull with them. I met a peregrina who said one had stamped and put its head down as if to charge.
The VdlP is a fabulous wonderful Camino. You see the real Spain - not the mad Disneyland that the Francés has become.
One word to anyone currently on the VdlP/CS - a whole string of albergues from Zamora on are closed: bedbug epidemic.
Buen Camino

 

[LTfit]

Good to hear from you sirjohn! Too bad about the bedbugs...so where are you staying given the limited alternatives? You are now heading towards some beautiful stages north of Tábara. The scenery will be changing by the day. Buen Camino!

 

[jirit]

Thank you Jirit. I see that you have walked many Caminos - what was your feeling about VdlP?

Hi Jenny

Hi Jenny

My experience walking the Via de la Plata was mixed. I would not rank it as one my best due to a number of factors.

I described it as walking Spain's version of Australia's outback. The is very apparent north of Caceres and especially from Salamanca to Zamora. For some this is very attractive - for others not so much.

I think what bothered me most was the pockets of super highway construction north of Caceres, and high speed rail construction on the way to Galicia. It wasn't everywhere but it seemed to appear in the places you did not expect it. I am one that would describe it as jarring.

It is a far more lonely walk compared to the Frances route, with some significant distances between the stages that pass through small almost empty towns and villages. There is almost always an albergue at the end of each of these stages whereby you will find fellow pilgrims (in fact April can be busy at times since many decide to walk then too). But in between you are more likely to find yourself walking alone. Don't expect to find a string of open cafes and bars with pilgrims hanging around like you see on the Frances route

You do need to have some command of the Spain language since again this is not a tourist like pilgrim trail like the Camino Frances. Very few of the locals speak English.

In all fairness if you want to see parts of Spain many do not, then I suggest you walk this route. It passes through many regions that many Spaniards do not visit often, if at all, starting from one of the poorest regions of Spain, north of Selvilla, from Merida through soft rolling hills of never ending landscapes of Spanish farmlands of olive and cork trees to Zamora, to the rich mountainous region of Galicia and Santiago.

 

[MendiWalker]

I am two-thirds of the way between Sevilla and Santiago, just turned NW onto the Sanabrés. There is absolutely NO problem about loose dogs - just be prudent if you meet livestock. North of Cáceres there is loose cattle - the black sort sort with big horns. Sometimes there is a bull with them. I met a peregrina who said one had stamped and put its head down as if to charge.
The VdlP is a fabulous wonderful Camino. You see the real Spain - not the mad Disneyland that the Francés has become.
One word to anyone currently on the VdlP/CS - a whole string of albergues from Zamora on are closed: bedbug epidemic.
Buen Camino

Once you get to Cea ( famous for its bread) you have to choose between the short route or the longer one to Castro Dozon the following day.
I would recommend the longer route for two reasons. 1- less asphalt. and 2- on the longer route you can visit the Monastery of Oseira ( there are guided tours I believe at 10 am). And the walk from there to Castro Dozon is very beautiful specially from the Monatery.

Buen Camino!

 

[LTfit]

Here are a few pictures of the locations discussed above (I haven't posted a picture since the changeover to the new site software so thought that I would practice here).

The ruines outside of Granja (detour)

The way to Oseira

The pilgrim albergue

Part of the Monastery

View from hill above

Anyone want to see other pictures of the Sanabrés or Vía de la Plata ?

 

[norelle]

Hi Norelle - it's Jenny from the pilgrim group catch up the other week (must add a photo to my profile - only joined today). I remember you mentioning that book. So I will read it .... perhaps that will help me to decide one way or the other.
How are your plans going for December / January?
Jenny

Hello again! I'm still undecided - April may be the more sensible option. Hope to see you again at a pilgrim meeting!

 

[Former member 31048]

Thank you to everyone who has joined in this thread. I have had lots to read and consider over the past few days and appreciate all the insights and information. My latest thinking has taken me in a slightly different direction but it is sitting well with me at this stage. I had initially thought I would walk Camino Le Puy but wanted to spend some time in Spain (and end up in Santiago) but not Frances again, and not drawn to Northern route. But my current idea seems :

Camino Le Puy to SJPP
continue on Camino Frances from SJPP to Pamploma
Train from Pamploma to Astorga - then bus (?) to Granja Moreuela to start Sanabres
Camino Sanabres to Santiago (highly recommended on this thread!)
On to Finisterre if time permits.

So I will let that idea settle for a while. Thanks again everyone
Jenny

 

[Former member 31048]

Hi, Jenny,
LTfit has given you my overriding opinion of the difference between the Norte and the Vdlp. I found a much greater camino "feeling" on the Vdlp. The Norte, as everyone has said, has a lot of stunning scenery, the coastal walks are really incredible, but if you walk it during tourist season, you will find that most of the towns on the coast are geared to tourists and not pilgrims. That's not a criticism, because of course tourists are a much more important source of revenue, but it does make the Camino feel different. There is also a lot more asphalt walking on the Norte, a lot more. But the Norte has a lot more elevation gain, so if you like climbing you may not be as enamored of the flat or undulating terrain that predominates on the Vdlp at least till past Zamora.

I walked the Norte in 2006, and the Vdlp in more recent years, though so things may have changed.

The Vdlp has a lot of variety of landscape, takes you through some very nice monumental cities (Sevilla, Merida, Caceres, Salamanca, Zamora, Ourense), and has very good pilgrim infrastructure. Springtime in Andalucia and Extremadura is beautiful. Tons of wildflowers, lots of scrub forests with oaks, huge boulders, babbling streams.

I have started in Sevilla twice, once in April and once in May. Both had very nice spring weather. There is a burst of pilgrims in Holy Week, many start in Sevilla then, and Holy Week is a big deal in some of the cities along the way so there will be crowds (but also processions and many religious rituals). For me, starting on May 1 in Sevilla was the perfect time because by the time we got north things had warmed up.

And I never saw a loose dog on the Vdlp.

I know some people have found the AVE construction to be very jarring on the Vdlp, particularly on the Sanabres north of Zamora, but if you do some searching on the forum, you'll see that some of us who walked it this past summer (me and LTfit in particular) did not think it detracted much from the overall wonderful experience.

Buen camino, Laurie

Hi Laurie - just read your post again, and some others. From one in particular, it seemed that there was construction work virtually every day on Sanabres, which seems unappealing ... I think I'd rather the crowds on the Frances.!! But then you say it did not detract too much from the overall wonderful experience. I wonder if you would encourage me to go, despite the construction works??

Jenny

 

[piogaw]

hello jenny,

how about starting halfway on the vdlp from salamanca? as mentioned by any peregrino who has walked the vdlp, you will see the real spain. although you will not meet many peregrinos, which are mostly europeans. i would highly recommended you start in sevilla, the weather is usually warmer until you hit salamanca. from salamanca on, it can be anything from warm to cold weather, strong wind and rain. you will hardly see any tourist except in the big cities. i will say to you, the vdlp is completely different from the camino frances. i have walked both caminos, i do preferred the vdlp.

anyway, good luck to your planning. whatever you desire, buen camino to you and god bless.

 

[madrid12]

I walked part of this route from A Gudina via Verin to Santiago earlier this year and it was very quiet so hardly saw any construction work which is another option you could take on the Sanabres route. Perhaps more road walking this way than the northern route but I enjoyed the towns and villages.
Liz

 

[jirit]

Thank you to everyone who has joined in this thread. I have had lots to read and consider over the past few days and appreciate all the insights and information. My latest thinking has taken me in a slightly different direction but it is sitting well with me at this stage. I had initially thought I would walk Camino Le Puy but wanted to spend some time in Spain (and end up in Santiago) but not Frances again, and not drawn to Northern route. But my current idea seems :

Camino Le Puy to SJPP
continue on Camino Frances from SJPP to Pamploma
Train from Pamploma to Astorga - then bus (?) to Granja Moreuela to start Sanabres
Camino Sanabres to Santiago (highly recommended on this thread!)
On to Finisterre if time permits.

So I will let that idea settle for a while. Thanks again everyone
Jenny

Hi Jenny

Can I offer you another suggestion ?

While walking the via de la plata, I met a Aussie couple who had started in Madrid. They were walking with two younger girls, maybe their daughters but I was not sure.

They took the camino from Madrid to Sahagún where it joins the Frances route.
From there they continued west to Ponferrada.
At Ponferrada they joined the trail ( Camino de Invierno ) that goes south west to A Laxe west of Ourense to join the Via de la Plata.
From A Laxe they continued through Galicia to Santiago.

I am not sure of the actual distance but I suspect it would similar to walking the Via de la Plata from say Merida.

Madrid is an obvious gateway into Spain and it is equally easier to get back to from Santiago.

Update

Breakdown of the route:
Camino Madrid (Madrid to Sahagún) - 12-14 days
Camino Frances - (Sahagún to Ponferrada) - 6 days
Camino Invierno - (Ponferrada to A Laxe) - 7 days
Camino Sanabres - (A Laxe to Santiago) - 5 days

Total days 30-32 days

Here are links for the Madrid camino and Invierno
http://www.csj.org.uk/route-madrid.htm

http://www.mundicamino.com/ingles/rutas.cfm?id=66

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi Laurie - just read your post again, and some others. From one in particular, it seemed that there was construction work virtually every day on Sanabres, which seems unappealing ... I think I'd rather the crowds on the Frances.!! But then you say it did not detract too much from the overall wonderful experience. I wonder if you would encourage me to go, despite the construction works??

Jenny

Hi, Jenny,
Well, my memory is definitely not one of construction work every day on the Sanabres, but memories are funny things. I will have to go back through my journal tonight and see if I can give you a more precise idea. There is some construction, that's true, but pilgrims are usually diverted to avoid it, so those construction sites have no impact on the pleasure of your walk. Where the diversion takes you right alongside the construction (as in Campobecerros) yes it is jarring, but it is a small percentage of any total walking day.

I'll get back to you with some more specific details, but overall I would still say this is a beautiful camino with a lot of advantages. Buen camino, Laurie

p.s. I think an easier starting point is Zamora, which is about 36 kms before the split. Zamora is a really beautiful city, lots of romanesque churches, a restored castle, just a really nice place. It's going to be much easier to get to Zamora than Granja de Moreruela.

 

[LTfit]

I understand your concern Jenny. Before leaving I was also hesitant - had read Jirit's accounts and was a bit put off but I had already walked from Sevilla to Zamora and really wanted to finish off what I had previously started. I am so glad that I did!

The entry into Campobecerros is an eyesore, no doubt about it, but the rest of the day's walk was lovely! There were 2 other detours: one during the stage Mombuey-Puebla de Sanabria which couldn't be avoided (we tried and had to backtrack) and the other going from Puebla de Sanabria to Lubián (a mojón was covered up). We chose to ignore the detour and cross a contruction area which kept us on dirt tracks. It was Saturday and no one was around and the Camino was easy to follow. Fellow peregrinos didn't and had to walk for km on asphalt. But that's it. We are talking about 3 detours on a small part of 3 different +/- 30 km days.

And I agree with Laurie, getting to Zamora would be much easier than to Granja, plus Zamora should not be missed - all 26 churches!

 

[camino07]

Yes,there were a few areas of construction and eyesores as Laurie said but looking back to this May I don't even remember much about them. I really enjoyed the Sanabres. Something about the ambience, the varied
paths,mountains and interesting villages and albergues. Many friendly pilgrims who left from Zamora at the same time helped make it one of the best Caminos I have walked. I am planning my 7th next May with the Norte/Primitivo. Can't wait !
So far I would say that my 2012 VDLP experience was the least spiritual but a great historical walk nonetheless. I should probably repeat it and see what a second time would bring.
Heather

 

[freescot]

Hello Jenny,
I loved this Camino, which was my first and I began on March 17th.
Dogs were no problem at any stage.
The weather can be very cold once you get to Bejar, right until the end of May. Indeed the Spanish have a saying about not leaving behind your coat until the 40th May (i.e. 10th June).
Some of the earlier stages are in my blog and others will appear in due course.
http://the-raft-of-corks.com/blog/
select Category Via de la Plata.

Good luck,
John

 

[camino07]

Hi Jenny and all,

Here's a link to my photos of Sanabres and Aragones 2013 in case you are interested. https://picasaweb.google.com/102985...authkey=Gv1sRgCLf-0cvA2_i9ogE&feat=directlink

 

[Cejanus]

Hi Jenny

Can I offer you another suggestion ?

While walking the via de la plata, I met a Aussie couple who had started in Madrid. They were walking with two younger girls, maybe their daughters but I was not sure.

They took the camino from Madrid to Sahagún where it joins the Frances route.
From there they continued west to Ponferrada.
At Ponferrada they joined the trail ( Camino de Invierno ) that goes south west to A Laxe west of Ourense to join the Via de la Plata.
From A Laxe they continued through Galicia to Santiago.

I am not sure of the actual distance but I suspect it would similar to walking the Via de la Plata from say Merida.

Madrid is an obvious gateway into Spain and it is equally easier to get back to from Santiago.

Update

Breakdown of the route:
Camino Madrid (Madrid to Sahagún) - 12-14 days
Camino Frances - (Sahagún to Ponferrada) - 6 days
Camino Invierno - (Ponferrada to A Laxe) - 7 days
Camino Sanabres - (A Laxe to Santiago) - 5 days

Total days 30-32 days

Here are links for the Madrid camino and Invierno
http://www.csj.org.uk/route-madrid.htm

http://www.mundicamino.com/ingles/rutas.cfm?id=66

Hey Jirit, This is a great post and it has given me lots to think about as I plan for the Via de la Plata for April 2014.

Thanks thanks thanks this forum is just so helpful. I am greatly indebted to fellow members who share unselfishly.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi Laurie - just read your post again, and some others. From one in particular, it seemed that there was construction work virtually every day on Sanabres, which seems unappealing ... I think I'd rather the crowds on the Frances.!! But then you say it did not detract too much from the overall wonderful experience. I wonder if you would encourage me to go, despite the construction works??

Jenny

Hi, Jenny, I have gone back through my journal and here is what I noted about construction on the Sanabres.

From Zamora to Riego del Camino there were several bridges being constructed but there were no camino detours.

Day 2 to Tabara -- there were signs indicating that we had be re-routed due to construction, but there was no sign of the construction and it seemed to me that I was walking the same route I had walked several times before.

Day 3 to Carmanzara de Tabara -- no construction

Day 4 to Mombuey -- no construction

Day 5 to Puebla Sanabria -- my journal notes "a few detours, nothing major", but my overall impression was "a lovely day!"

Day 6 to Lubian -- here there was a detour that required us to walk on the side of the national highway (not much traffic because there is an autovia now). There was also an "incipient detour" between Aciberos and Lubian that, if it becomes permanent, will really interfere with one of the most beautiful segments on the Sanabres, which is between Aciberos and Lubian.

Day 7 to A Gudina -- no construction

Day 8 to Laza -- there is construction on this stage, and there was (in summer 2013) a lot of hype about avoiding it after A Gudina, but the hospitalero told us to ignore the warnings and we did, and we were fine. Between A Gudina and Campobecerros, the construction is not on the camino, but the detours are put there because of the heavy truck traffic that goes on the camino to get to the construction, which is near the camino. Going into Campobecerros is visually unpleasant, but the rest of the walk and the walk before have both been so beautiful that you will quickly get over your aesthetic meltdown.

Day 9 to Xunqueira -- beautiful walk, no construction

Day 10 to Ourense -- you won't pass construction but the walk into Ourense is all asphalt, and the walk is made very unpleasant because this road, which used to be a minor road connecting Xunqueira to Ourense, has now become a major truck route for trucks going to the construction sites. Walks into major cities are frequently unpleasant, and this is no exception.

NOrth of Ourense, I believe, all the construction is done, so there is no more disruption.

All in all, I don't think there is any reason to avoid the Sanabres because of construction. But others may disagree. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Mark Gaulicia]

NOrth of Ourense, I believe, all the construction is done, so there is no more disruption.

It is done, not more disruption but many wounds upon the landscape still healing.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I'm going to try to complete this section in April/May. Then I'll just have the section between Cáceres and Zamora to finish the VDLP!
HOORAY!

 

[Anniesantiago]

I am two-thirds of the way between Sevilla and Santiago, just turned NW onto the Sanabrés. There is absolutely NO problem about loose dogs - just be prudent if you meet livestock. North of Cáceres there is loose cattle - the black sort sort with big horns. Sometimes there is a bull with them. I met a peregrina who said one had stamped and put its head down as if to charge.
The VdlP is a fabulous wonderful Camino. You see the real Spain - not the mad Disneyland that the Francés has become.
One word to anyone currently on the VdlP/CS - a whole string of albergues from Zamora on are closed: bedbug epidemic.
Buen Camino

John, how did you find the construction of the railroad. Were there many detours from Caceres on? Super long stages?
I'd like to do another section of the VDLP in April/May. I left it at Caceres last year.

 

[hecate105]

I had dog biscuits in my pocket at all times, the only time untethered dogs ran out at me barking and growling, I threw dog biscuits at them - and they ran away!

 

[Harington]

John, how did you find the construction of the railroad. Were there many detours from Caceres on? Super long stages?
I'd like to do another section of the VDLP in April/May. I left it at Caceres last year.

After Cáceres the AVE construction caused a few detours before and after the Embalse de Encantara. After that, it seemed fine till post Zamora where there was quite a bit of motorway construction on and off till Lubián. Then again between A Gudiña and Laza (this latter was another railway). None of these detours was more than 2 or 3km, and were well signed. Melanie's VDLP app was really helpful, as were the hospitaleros in the albergues.
None of this spoiled the enjoyment of this wonderful Camino, though there are scars on the beautiful country.

 

[Anniesantiago]

None of this spoiled the enjoyment of this wonderful Camino, though there are scars on the beautiful country.

Thanks!