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Alternate routes: Lucca to Altopascio to S Miniato

MichaelC

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
May 2023: Via Francigena, Lucca to Rome
I've seen references to alternate routes on the Lucca to Altopascio segment, but there's not a lot of concrete information. I'll link to the information I've found online, but I'd love to hear from anyone who has actually walked it. The official route is along busy roads through suburbs and industrial areas, and doesn't sound pleasant.


Pilgrimage Publications:
Many people choose to start there journey on the via Francigena in the beautiful city of Lucca, but sadly the first stage they will encounter follows largely tarmac roads in quite heavily populated areas. However, if you have the time and energy 2 alterative longer routes have been proposed and can be found on the web-site of the commune of Capannori.

Commune di Capannori:
Since the historical itinerary of the Via Francigena is now in a densely built environment, two alternative paths have been officially recognised and provided with special signals (vVF or 'variant of Via Francigena'). Both paths are accessible by bike, and cross two of the areas richest in natural, landscape and hisotrical beauty. The northern branch reaches the foot of the mountains of Altopiano delle Pizzorne, while the southern touches the Monte Pisano.

The original journey from Lucca to Altopascio of around 20 km in length can now take over 40 km or around 34 km, depending on the alternative chosen. The beginning and the end of both alternatives are outiside the territory of Capannori, as they leave from the walls of Lucca and join the historical route when they enter the municipality of Altopascio.

The northern itinerary is rich in cultural and historical points of attraction such as Villa Reale or the village of Matraia, where a panoramic road leads visitors to many other villages, hamlets and hidden churches (Valgiano, the ancient church of San Quirico in Petroio, San Pietro a Marcigliano, Sant'Andrea in Caprile, Tofori, Petrograno). Every single one of them has its own church, villas and farms.

The southern variant of the Via Francigena twists and turns along the famous Monumental Aqueduct of Lorenzo Nottolini, that with more than 3 km of high arches still gives the good water of Monte Pisano to the fountains of Lucca. The route crosses the village of Badia di Cantignano with its interesting church, and reaches Vorno and its parish church. In Vorno you can find Rio di Vorno, a tourist reception point with a restaurant and rooms for the night.


(Editorial note: the website doesn't say which is the 34 and which the 40 km route! Nor are there maps.)

Sandy Brown (Facebook post):
There's been a lot of discussion over the years about the unattractive official walking stage between Lucca and Altopascio. In preparation for a walking tour I'm leading in June, my partner has been out, scouting the official alternate route that follows the 19th c aqueduct. I've walked part of it, and it's a real beauty. The tracks are attached below, and here are some pictures as well. If you're walking a short Francigena in Tuscany, it's definitely worth it to start in Lucca so you don't miss one of Italy's favorite towns and the beautiful surrounding scenery. (GPS links)

Note: this route is 26 km / 16 miles

Also, posts on Facebook say the next official stage, 28 km from Altopascio to San Miniato, can be brutal. Some suggest breaking it up at Ponte e Cappiano, at the midway point.
 
The 9th edition the Lightfoot Guide will let you complete the journey your way.
I leave in three days for the Via Francigena. After doing some initial research, and reading numerous negative reports regarding the first two stages, including Sandy Brown's guidebook and forum posts, we made a decision that after our full day in Lucca, we are taking a train to jump those first two stages and will officially start walking in San Miniato.
@MichaelC, good on you for your interest in the possibility of walking one of those alternate routes, and hope you have an enjoyable experience.
Buon Viaggio!
 
I leave in three days for the Via Francigena. After doing some initial research, and reading numerous negative reports regarding the first two stages, including Sandy Brown's guidebook and forum posts, we made a decision that after our full day in Lucca, we are taking a train to jump those first two stages and will officially start walking in San Miniato.
@MichaelC, good on you for your interest in the possibility of walking one of those alternate routes, and hope you have an enjoyable experience.
Buon Viaggio!
How exciting!

I still have nine months to decide my actual route. I don't think I'll have time to do the variants, not if they're really 40 km. Right now I'm thinking:

Day 1: Bus to Altopascio, walk to Ponte a Cappiano (14 km)
Day 2: Ponte e Cappiano to San Miniato (14 km)

That way I start easy, and in a nicer landscape than a suburb.

Another alternative I've seen on Facebook is to break up the long San Quirico d'Orcia-Radicofani stage in two, with a stop at Gallina (Castiglione d'Orcia). There are no pilgrim facilities, but there are some agroturismos that look nice and moderately priced.

buon cammino ... e mangia bene!
 
The 9th edition the Lightfoot Guide will let you complete the journey your way.
San Quirico d'Orcia-Radicofani
I am not looking forward to this long day that ends with the big 400 meter climb up to Radicofani in the last 10k. Our host where we are staying has offered to extend his check-in time in case we need to arrive later. He has also suggested a convenient taxi service for the that final ascent if we need it; apparently many use it. I am hoping I can manage without assistance, but I will not be forgetting it is an option!
 
Last edited:
Not really relevant, but my family is from Capponari. It’s where I’m registered to vote in Italy, which I just did. Nice to see the name here. If I ever walk this route I’ll definitely be taking the alternate! Unfortunately I don’t know anything about it…...Wishing a great walk to both of you!
 
I've seen references to alternate routes on the Lucca to Altopascio segment, but there's not a lot of concrete information. I'll link to the information I've found online, but I'd love to hear from anyone who has actually walked it. The official route is along busy roads through suburbs and industrial areas, and doesn't sound pleasant.


Pilgrimage Publications:
Many people choose to start there journey on the via Francigena in the beautiful city of Lucca, but sadly the first stage they will encounter follows largely tarmac roads in quite heavily populated areas. However, if you have the time and energy 2 alterative longer routes have been proposed and can be found on the web-site of the commune of Capannori.

Commune di Capannori:
Since the historical itinerary of the Via Francigena is now in a densely built environment, two alternative paths have been officially recognised and provided with special signals (vVF or 'variant of Via Francigena'). Both paths are accessible by bike, and cross two of the areas richest in natural, landscape and hisotrical beauty. The northern branch reaches the foot of the mountains of Altopiano delle Pizzorne, while the southern touches the Monte Pisano.

The original journey from Lucca to Altopascio of around 20 km in length can now take over 40 km or around 34 km, depending on the alternative chosen. The beginning and the end of both alternatives are outiside the territory of Capannori, as they leave from the walls of Lucca and join the historical route when they enter the municipality of Altopascio.

The northern itinerary is rich in cultural and historical points of attraction such as Villa Reale or the village of Matraia, where a panoramic road leads visitors to many other villages, hamlets and hidden churches (Valgiano, the ancient church of San Quirico in Petroio, San Pietro a Marcigliano, Sant'Andrea in Caprile, Tofori, Petrograno). Every single one of them has its own church, villas and farms.

The southern variant of the Via Francigena twists and turns along the famous Monumental Aqueduct of Lorenzo Nottolini, that with more than 3 km of high arches still gives the good water of Monte Pisano to the fountains of Lucca. The route crosses the village of Badia di Cantignano with its interesting church, and reaches Vorno and its parish church. In Vorno you can find Rio di Vorno, a tourist reception point with a restaurant and rooms for the night.


(Editorial note: the website doesn't say which is the 34 and which the 40 km route! Nor are there maps.)

Sandy Brown (Facebook post):
There's been a lot of discussion over the years about the unattractive official walking stage between Lucca and Altopascio. In preparation for a walking tour I'm leading in June, my partner has been out, scouting the official alternate route that follows the 19th c aqueduct. I've walked part of it, and it's a real beauty. The tracks are attached below, and here are some pictures as well. If you're walking a short Francigena in Tuscany, it's definitely worth it to start in Lucca so you don't miss one of Italy's favorite towns and the beautiful surrounding scenery. (GPS links)

Note: this route is 26 km / 16 miles

Also, posts on Facebook say the next official stage, 28 km from Altopascio to San Miniato, can be brutal. Some suggest breaking it up at Ponte e Cappiano, at the midway point.
I'm curious...what's the likelihood of there being a luggage transfer service for these alternate routes?
 
The 9th edition the Lightfoot Guide will let you complete the journey your way.
I leave in three days for the Via Francigena. After doing some initial research, and reading numerous negative reports regarding the first two stages, including Sandy Brown's guidebook and forum posts, we made a decision that after our full day in Lucca, we are taking a train to jump those first two stages and will officially start walking in San Miniato.
@MichaelC, good on you for your interest in the possibility of walking one of those alternate routes, and hope you have an enjoyable experience.
Buon Viaggio!
Hi Chrissy
hope you have a wonderful time

Thats what we did too,got a train to San Minato and walked up to the Francisco
monastery with comfy beds and a nice meal
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
I arrived in Lucca today having walked the last 2 months. I plan to walk the south variant which I understand is 27 kms in a couple of days from now. That is, as long as the rain stops! Started late today and hasn’t stopped. The route is based on a post by Sandy Brown some months ago. It looks fairly straight forward. If I have time, I’ll post here again.
 
I am not looking forward to this long day that ends with the big 400 meter climb up to Radicofani in the last 10k. Our host where we are staying has offered to extend his check-in time in case we need to arrive later. He has also suggested a convenient taxi service for the that final ascent if we need it; apparently many use it. I am hoping I can manage without assistance, but I will not be forgetting it is an option!
I just found the discussion I was looking for: in the thread Best accommodation on the italian via francigena folks recommended Agriturismo di Passalacqua, which is about half-way between San Quirico d'Orcia and Radicofani. I plan to make it one of my splurge days. I also learned on the CF that starting the morning with a long climb is much more pleasant than ending the day with one!
 
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