Alternative route from Villatuerta via Luquín to Los Arcos

[annakappa]

Instead of staying in Estella (a major stopping place), we have now twice stayed in Villatuerta at the lovely Casa Mágica and taken the advantage of walking the alternate route, via Luquín to Los Arcos. This cuts off Estella and Villamayor de Monjardín.
Last time we stayed, we actually left our packs at the Albergue and walked into Estella, where we spent a pleasant afternoon and then took the local bus back to Villatuerta.
Villatuerta to Luquín (alternative Camino a Santiago)
Personally, I find this a far more pleasant walk than going via Villamayor de Monjardín, which we have also done twice. Anne

Exit town past the church, along Plaza Iglesia. At its end (T-junction) take path straight ahead which leads through fields, leaving the industrial area to the right. The path connects with a wider sand track and leads to an underpass of national road NA 132. Pass a picnic area on your left and after 350 mtrs take the underpass of the A12 highway. At the tunnel (T-junction) exit turn right. Follow the track until a gate (bull pasture) and cross bridge on your right. Immediately turn right again and follow an eventually steep ascending path passing the ruins of a pilgrims’ hospital. (approx. 400 mtrs) Carry on until an asphalted road. Cross the road and take path which ascends to a bridge over the NA 122. Continue on the path until a wider sand track is reached. After approx. 1 km you’ll reach a large asphalted parking area opposite a cemetery. Follow this road and after about 400 mtrs enter left into a path which leads past a wooded area with a few houses (away from dog kennels in that area) and at the end turn left to cross fields, and at a cross road at the end, turn left. After another 60 mtrs turn right into an oak-wooded forest.

Follow the path and before an underpass of the highway (the road continues towards Irache), turn left. The road borders the highway for about 500 mtrs. Turn left into the oak forest again. The Camino meanders through the forest for about 2.5 km and ends on a large sand track. Turn left and follow this track for about 2km without deviating either left or right. After a heavy ascent and at a T-junction, enter a narrow path straight ahead. This leads eventually towards a larger sand track and leads into Luquín.

After the Luquín church at your right and a bar on the left, continue straight down along an asphalted road until a path off to the right. Follow this until a main road, turn left, cross and after 120 mtrs turn right into a meandering footpath which leads to a sand track, bordering the highway. Turn left until an underpass (300 mtrs.), cross underneath and after 150 mtrs connect with the Camino from Monjardín to Los Arcos (turn left)

.NB: The Camino is well marked, but one has to be careful and always look for signs at cross roads.

 

[Felipe]

OK...it looks good. But which is the rationale for choosing this route? Estella is a lovely city, and I liked being received at Azqueta by don Pablito (I hope he is still there....). Or are you considering this as a way to avoid the summer crowds and the rush for beds? If this is the case, I am with you. I, too, have been browsing for an alternative route between Sarriá and SdeC.

 

[annakappa]

After we had walked twice the route via Estrella/Villamayor, we decided to try the ancient, alternative route, via Luquín. We asked about it on this forum and got a few encouraging answers. We found it a beautiful route. The views are spectacular. You walk for quite a while in the oak forest, instead of on the open road, therefore providing shade during the heat of the day. It was deserted, which also suited us fine. One joins the other route about 8 kms before Los Arcos. We have stayed twice at the Dutch Albergue in Villamayor and, frankly, found them rather too "pushy". The roof collapsed on the old albergue one winter a couple of years ago. Now there is, in fact a second alternative, private choice in Villamayor, but I don't know it.
The route via Luquín is the old, original route. Estella was founded at a later date. You pass by the ruins of an ancient Hospital de Peregrinos. Also pass by a bull raising ranch! Personally, I like it. I prefer it. Maybe if you try it, you'll like it too! Anne
PS. By the way, the last time we stayed in Villatuerta, we arrived reasonably early, left our packs there, walked to Estrella, just to hang around and took the local bus back later in the day to Villatuerta! Perfect. And the Albergue Casa Mágica is one of my favourites. In my top 5 list.

 

[Kanga]

I will definitely be taking thus alternative next time I walk. Thank you Anne. Now, to find a way of marking posts as "favourites" so I don't lose it.

 

[petro]

I took that route in 2011 and it really is beautiful! Felipe, from Ponferrada you can take the camino de invierno to SdC , from what I understand, very little pilgrim traffic on this route

 

[mspath]

After we had walked twice the route via Estrella/Villamayor, we decided to try the ancient, alternative route, via Luquín. .... Personally, I like it. I prefer it. Maybe if you try it, you'll like it too! Anne
PS. By the way, the last time we stayed in Villatuerta, we arrived reasonably early, left our packs there, walked to Estrella, just to hang around and took the local bus back later in the day to Villatuerta! Perfect. And the Albergue Casa Mágica is one of my favourites. In my top 5 list.

Anne,

I agree with you about the Dutch, also miss the old municipal, and love the Magica.
Last October I did stay in the new private place in Villamayor which was anonymous.

The Luquín route sounds GREAT! Thanks for the tip I'll try it next time.

Margaret Meredith

 

[mikevasey]

You can walk from Villatuerta and if you want to visit the wine fountain in Irache or go to the Monasterio de Irache it is probably less than 1km there and back from the Luquin route where it comes near to the main route. I probably be going through here in late June so will go the whole way from Villatuerta this time. However the little chapel on the main route after Casa Magica was a pause and reflect moment after visiting it and reading the various pilgrim messages that had been left and that has a pull on me as well.

 

[Felipe]

I took that route in 2011 and it really is beautiful! Felipe, from Ponferrada you can take the camino de inferno to SdC , from what I understand, very little pilgrim traffic on this route

Thanks, Petro! Looks good, I see that there is even a webpage, with maps, lodging info, etc.
I generally go to Camino in late winter or early spring, but it is always a bit complicated because of my job. So, I am considering, quite hesitantly, the summer vacations...but I am looking for alternatives to avoid crowds and the "albergue sprinters". The other option is December, but although I like snow very much, extreme weather gives me pause...
Btw, "camino de inferno" sounds in Spanish or Galego as "Hell's way" . It does not really matter (I am sure my English has a lot of mistakes) but it sounded funny.

 

[mspath]

I took that route in 2011 and it really is beautiful! Felipe, from Ponferrada you can take the camino de inferno to SdC , from what I understand, very little pilgrim traffic on this route

Not Inferno but Camino de Invierno, or winter camino since it avoids the high mountain passes.

MM

 

[annakappa]

You can walk from Villatuerta and if you want to visit the wine fountain in Irache or go to the Monasterio de Irache it is probably less than 1km there and back from the Luquin route where it comes near to the main route. I probably be going through here in late June so will go the whole way from Villatuerta this time. However the little chapel on the main route after Casa Magica was a pause and reflect moment after visiting it and reading the various pilgrim messages that had been left and that has a pull on me as well.

Mike, I think it was you who originally sent me the directions of this alternate route! Anne

 

[mikevasey]

I remember there was a couple of us talking about it, but I took the part up after the bodegas Irache, the part from Vilatuerta will be completely new to me. Hopefully the cafe and pool in Linquin village will be open!

 

[petro]

Yeah meant that to be invierno! Auto correct is not always a blessing

 

[supersullivan]

I took the Zarapuz - Luquin at the end of May 2013 during a long day from Cirraqui to Los Arcos, I took the side trip to take in the Wine Fountain at Irache and decided to have lunch in Hotel Irache before retracing to join the upper route. The bar in Luquin was closed on a Monday afternoon so be warned and stock up with some snack food as it's a long 17+ km stretch from Irache to Los Arcos on the upper route without sure food options but a glorious, delightful option once you take food for snacking along the way.

 

[Charles Hansen]

I've been trying to justify this description with Google satellite and street views, and think I'm close, but have a question or two and one suggested improvement.
> Follow the path and before an underpass of the highway (the road continues towards Irache), turn left. The road borders the highway for about 500 mtrs. Turn left into the oak forest again. The Camino meanders through the forest for about 2.5 km and ends on a large sand track.
I see this underpass, and a dirt road curving into the woods. However, from satellite view I only see it connecting to a long series of switchbacks going up the mountain. I don't question that the Camino is hidden in the forest, and the posts indicate that it is well marked. I'm guessing that it "roughly" parallels the route of A-12, and perhaps skirts some of the smaller tilled fields I see from above. I'm guessing this large sand track is one off NA-1110 that crosses under the A-12.
> Turn left and follow this track for about 2km without deviating either left or right.
This is perhaps the most frustrating bit. If I search for "Camino Luquin", I find many similar images showing a lovely landscape of a dirt road winding and climbing among varying fields, and I couldn't match it up with what I saw in satellite view.
Wait - I just worked it out . . . must have been a seasonal thing. Satellite view is plowed fields in the spring, while all the photos are high summer. These photos all show pretty much the same view, and I noticed two other roads angling off to the right. Combined with slight turns in the Camino just before and after these roads, I'm now able to place this location.
> After a heavy ascent and at a T-junction, enter a narrow path straight ahead.
I was initially confused over justifying a T-junction with the notion of going straight ahead. However, I think I've sorted it out by zooming in on satellite view. The road you were on ends at a T, and if you turn left, the narrow track bears off to the right ~10 meters beyond this? This runs parallel to the dirt road for perhaps 300 meters.
> This leads eventually towards a larger sand track and leads into Luquín.
The track widens where two tracks join it from above on the left. You're now on Calle San Martin.

> After the Luquín church at your right and a bar on the left, continue straight down along an asphalted road until a path off to the right. Follow this until a main road, turn left, cross and after 120 mtrs turn right into a meandering footpath which leads to a sand track, bordering the highway. Turn left until an underpass (300 mtrs.), cross underneath and after 150 mtrs connect with the Camino from Monjardín to Los Arcos (turn left)
This "path" actually starts as a concrete road, and soon turns to dirt at the edge of town. What isn't mentioned is that about 500 meters from the start of this road, your suggested route bears right on a double-rut lane, which in turn brings you to NA-1110.
What I'd suggest, is instead of turning off on this lane, you continue on the dirt road for about a km. After a minor zig-zag, you come to two large agri-business structures right ahead of you. Bear right on a similar road just before these, which will soon cross NA-1110 to a wider road, and then bring you directly to the underpass. No walking on asphalt, or along highways.
Here's my initial take on it. I drew a straight line in the woods where I couldn't follow the Camino. You can set the Map to satellite view in the top right corner.
http://ridewithgps.com/routes/6893527
Charles

 

[annakappa]

Hi Charles. im asking Adriaan, ( fraluchi), my husband and walking partner, to check out some of your questions. However, from what I remember, it's impossible to distinguish the path through the forest in google earth. You will just gave to have faith! Anne

 

[oursonpolaire]

I took the path to Luquin entirely by accident and very much enjoyed the walk through a cool forest. The bar was open enough for sandwiches when I got there, and the women cleaning the church found a local teacher for us, who gave us an excellent historical tour. It has the distinction, for church trivia geeks, of being one of the smallest basilicas in the world.

 

[Charles Hansen]

Hi Charles. im asking Adriaan, ( fraluchi), my husband and walking partner, to check out some of your questions. However, from what I remember, it's impossible to distinguish the path through the forest in google earth. You will just gave to have faith! Anne

Hi Anne - actually, in the process of writing the message, I answered several questions for myself by continuing to look at the area. The last big mystery for me was the location of the photos which all showed a similar scene, and once I found that I felt comfortable. I'll accept that the route through the forest is well signed. Having looked at several locations on the regular route on streetview, I would indeed choose the Luquin alternate. Charles

 

[fraluchi]

Having looked at several locations on the regular route on street view, I would indeed choose the Luquin alternate.

Having walked this route twice, I can remember that it was fairly well marked. Annakappa and I have never used a guide book, maps or GPS on any of our Caminos and haven't gone wrong often. The Luquin route, leaving from Villatuerta, is well marked once you are on it, but from the village (town?) you should make sure of the exit towards Luquin. (past the industrial area) Exiting the underpass of the highway, turn right and climb towards the dilapidated hospital de peregrinos. Just follow Annakappa's indications (above).
The tracks shown on Google Earth are sometimes confusing or just absent. After Luquin, for example, the path has a very narrow stretch, hardly indicated on a map. The Camino markers are good, as long as one keeps looking out for them at cross roads. And if there aren't any.... just go straight on. Ultreya!

 

[Charles Hansen]

Fraluchi - my thanks to you and Anna for your info. I had seen the route on a Brierley map, and I found Anna's post with the route info when I did a search on Camino Luquin, along with the lovely photos of the path after it emerges from the forest - which is what convinced me that I wanted to do it.

I will be cycling and going through Estella, perhaps even staying there, as one of my primary joys is exploring towns and cities - the bike makes it much faster and easier, and I'll even investigate dead-end streets. I'm all set on how to pick up this route from Irache, thanks to Anna's info.

The right tracks can indeed be difficult to pick out in satellite view, so I'll switch to streetview and look for markers where they cross roads. It has become a puzzle-game for me, providing much enjoyment and satisfaction. It's often easier to identify the Camino by images of peregrinos than the route markers. I was thrown off for a while in Navarette, as they use smallish golden 3D shells, instead of the more common blue and gold signs. I've been able to follow the Luquin route quite precisely from the "photo-op" location to where it joins the main route, including the wandering path that Anna mentions.

I've added the photo-op location to the RWGPS map linked above, along with a sample photo from the web (if you click on the camera icon at mile 18).

Charles

 

[Charles Hansen]

A little over four hours ago I decided that I wanted to do a project, so I created this "annotated" map for Estella to Los Arcos via Luquin.

http://ridewithgps.com/routes/6907594

I captured a bunch of images from streetview and inserted them at the appropriate locations - you might want to zoom in to a section so the camera icons are not overlapping. If you click on a camera icon it will bring up the info for that image and a thumbnail of it - clicking on the thumbnail will display the full image. There's an elevation graph at the bottom, and if you mouse over it the corresponding location on the map is shown. The red line on the map is the route I'm tentatively planning on cycling.

It's obvious that there are no streetview images available for a long segment - from where the path enters the woods after Irache to the entry into Luquin. I've been impressed by how many dirt roads the Google camera cars drive down in Spain, but they can't cover them all.

Leaving Luquin, I have some images of both the official route and my proposed alternate, which saves a little asphalt on NA-1110, and walking next to the A-12. Given the overall scope of the Camino it's clearly meaningless, but I saw this option on satellite view and decided that I wanted to try it.

At some later point I may get some images for the segment into Los Arcos from the junction, but I don't have the energy right now. If I get really ambitious, I'll see what I can find for the Villatuerta to "Irache" segment. Since the route is well-signed, this doesn't really serve any purpose, unless someone wants to get a sense of (some of) this route.

If anyone has photos from the "black hole" area, if you send them to me I'll add them.

As previously mentioned, the image of the second ascent (after emerging from the woods) is one of many showing this scene that I found on the web.

 

[Charles Hansen]

Here's the Villatuerta to Irache segment, based on Anne's notes at the top of this thread.
BTW - it's exactly 1 km from the A-12 underpass after the forest to Irache.
I kept writing "woods", but then thought that woods are natural, and forests are planted.

http://ridewithgps.com/routes/6914741

I think there has been one very minor change since Anne was last there - she wrote:
"Follow this road and after about 400 mtrs enter left into a path which leads past a wooded area with a few houses (away from dog kennels in that area) and at the end turn left to cross fields, and at a cross road at the end, turn left. After another 60 mtrs turn right into an oak-wooded forest."

If you look at satellite view or the streetview photo I have at this last location, it looks like they've built a new narrow path into the forest there, so you stay straight after crossing the fields.

The other thing I noticed is that the exit from the forest is a tad west of the underpass, and given the angle of the path there, it's perhaps more straight than left for Luquin.

I've enjoyed this process, but think I'm tired of it - for now.

Charles

 

[camino-david]

I have walked this route twice, once from Villatuerta and once from Estella via Irache. I found it easy to follow the arrows once one had started. The route, especially after Irache , is beautiful with great views over the valley to the right to the mountains in the distance and looking down on Monjardin. The first time I walked it out of curiousity, and the second from Estella because my walking partner that day wanted to stay in Estella, which of course is a lovely town. Also I wanted to try out all the alternative routes to Santiago, which was interesting. The second time I only saw 6 other walkers (in June). The opening times for the bar in Luquin are fluid, so don't rely on getting food or drink there.

 

[Charles Hansen]

The opening times for the bar in Luquin are fluid, so don't rely on getting food or drink there.

Actually - if they're fluid, I would expect to be able to get a drink ;-)

 

[RENSHAW]

After we had walked twice the route via Estrella/Villamayor, we decided to try the ancient, alternative route, via Luquín.............................. We have stayed twice at the Dutch Albergue in Villamayor and, frankly, found them rather too "pushy". The roof collapsed on the old albergue one winter a couple of years ago. Now there is, in fact a second alternative, private choice in Villamayor, but I don't know it.
The route via Luquín is the old, original route. Estella was founded at a later date. You pass by the ruins of an ancient Hospital de Peregrinos.

I love these alternative historic routes with provenance but I was HORRIFIED to see it excluded the Irache wine fountain ......... so I jumped on to google map and to my relief Irache was only but a short detour so I shall definitely be trying it Anna .
As for the Dutch Albergue - cultish and too expensive for an albergue aligned with religion and the 'saving of souls'.
The new albergue in Villamayor - fancy new business , spick and span. I was last there some 18 months ago when the price was €15 which included a small breakfast. It was full - so was the Dutch - perhaphs we should establish a fund to repair the Parochial albergue? or............................

Hey , what about an opening an albergue in Luquín?!

 

[jsalt]

Hi, has anybody walked this route this year, from Villatuerte to Los Arcos via Zarapuz and Luquin? Is it well-marked? I’d like to walk it in October, and might be on my own, if no other pilgrims are around that I can interest in joining me. Is that a bad idea? Jill

 

[jsalt]

Is there any new information about this route? Is it well-marked? Jill

 

[annakappa]

Hi, has anybody walked this route this year, from Villatuerte to Los Arcos via Zarapuz and Luquin? Is it well-marked? I’d like to walk it in October, and might be on my own, if no other pilgrims are around that I can interest in joining me. Is that a bad idea? Jill

• It's a couple of years since we last walked it. If you stay at the albergue in Villatuerta, La Casa Mágica, the owners can give you the latest update. On the two occasions that we walked it, we didn't meet any other Pilgrims, but we did meet a group of runners going in the other direction!! There is a stretch of forest walking, for about an hour, if I remember. If you have your cel phone, a whistle and a walking stick ( for the uneven tracks), you should be fine!
• Would I do it alone? I'm not so sure, but then, I'm not keen on walking alone!

 

[annakappa]

Yup, Renshaw....the Irache Wine fountain (actually just a tap) is only a short distance off the track.
Indeed, some enterprising person should think of starting an albergue in Luquín and then, I'm sure, it would be an attractive option on the way to Los Arcos.

 

[jsalt]

• It's a couple of years since we last walked it. If you stay at the albergue in Villatuerta, La Casa Mágica, the owners can give you the latest update. On the two occasions that we walked it, we didn't meet any other Pilgrims, but we did meet a group of runners going in the other direction!! There is a stretch of forest walking, for about an hour, if I remember. If you have your cel phone, a whistle and a walking stick ( for the uneven tracks), you should be fine!
• Would I do it alone? I'm not so sure, but then, I'm not keen on walking alone!

Thank you for your reply! Yes, I will try to stay at Casa Magica (my favourite albergue on the whole camino anyway!), and hopefully I’ll be able to talk another pilgrim into walking with me. (Might have to make a detour to the wine fountain then ) Jill

 

[annakappa]

The views are spectacular, Jill! I do hope you can do it.

 

[thejoker]

Hey , what about an opening an albergue in Luquín?!

Recently stayed in the Casa Tiago albergue in Luquin. It was absolutely lovely and the bar is excellent as the staff are not overworked and genuinely appreciate passing pilgrims. The route was also nicer than the Villamayor route, though I do love that little Villamayor church with its cross inside.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

We stayed in Luquin too, in 2017, after being turned away in Monjarin as it was full. We had the place to ourselves as it was off trail and appreciated the quiet after a long day.

 

[SioCamino]

I walked this variant today, from Villatuerta. Thanks for the description which was very precise - it was a nice back up to the plentiful way markings. Highly recommend this route, it was really beautiful. I have stayed in estella before so wanted to do something different. Staying in Luquin today in Casa Tiago, very nice albergue.