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Live - Via de la Plata Another nearly live thread starting 20 Apr 16

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
i left Seville on 20 apr to head for Guillena- no dramas but if you can't find the yellow arrows out of the city just follow the cycle path to Camas. Thereafter all was very clear. No problems with Municipal albergue (AdP) and although I was early the lady arrived within 10 mins. Hike to Guillena was straight forward if a little short. Got there at about 1130 and waited till 1300 for the AdP to open. All fine but couldn't find any of the eating paves in Gerald Kelly's guide! Now in Almaden after 29km and all is good. Hope up go to Monesterio tomorrow.
 

CaminoDebrita

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances SJPP to SdC Oct/Nov 2015
Frances Burgos toSdC March/April 2016
W. Highland Way August 2016
Camino Somewhere September 2017

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Left Almaden at 0715 in light drizzle and got to El Real de la Jara at 1015 after 16km through pleasant countryside. Route was well marked but plenty of twist and turns so keep you eyes open! New this would be far to early so carries on to Monesterio. Got there at 1415 and all well after a total of 38km today. Tomorrow will just be a short stroll to Fuente de Cantos of 22km as the next stop after that is another 25km which is to far. A pleasant stroll today although a little damp. Strange to suddenly come across a castle and the stepping stones were not a stable as yesterday so I got wet feet. Walked by myself and only saw four others just before Monesterio and did even get a coffee until the last 6km. Now resting in the Parroquial AdP which is just 50m further on the Camino from the sigh to the Municipal AdP. Only 14 beds in 3 rooms and very lively laid out.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Sun 24 Apr. Left Monesterio at just after 0700 and walked in near perfect conditions. Clear sky with an almost full moon to start and a good track. Hundreds of birds including lots of cuckoos- in fact so many cuckoos the they sound like there had a stutter. Got to Fuente de Cantos at 1100 after 22kms and being early on a Sunday it was closed! I planned to walk on another 6km to Calzadilla but it was a bit of a gamble as it wasn't clear if a Hostal there was open or had rooms. Wanted to try though as I need to combine a few stages as there is one very long one coming up with no options and if I'm not careful I'll end up with a stage too short. Getting to Calzadilla means 28km today then 36 tomorrow to Vilafranca de los Barros missing out Zafra. Luckily all was ok and I'm settled for the day. Place is a bit basic but ok. No wifi though which is a bit of a pain. I would generally avoid this Hostal unless like me the distance was key. Giving what it looked like on Sunday I would not want to be there on a Saturday evening! However, the food was good. Walked today with a friend I had not seen for a while. Great walking companion. Always keeps my pace although sometimes he can be a little in front or a little behind. Doesn't get any aches and pains or need suntan lotion. He doesn't have much to say for himself either. Hope he is with me tomorrow. Can you guess who it is?

Mon 25 Apr Calzadilla to Villafranca de los Barros 36km. Good walk today with lots of sun and spring flowers. Must be about 24 deg now. I planned to avoid Zafra so I plotted my own you're with the help of Google maps - great that you can save maps off line now. Left just after 0700 and stop walking at 1430. Good tracks all the way. This is Serrano country ( yum yum) so the smell of pigs is all pervading. Had to cross a few railway tracks today but they are pretty simple here- I wonder how the accident rate compares? My self plotted route worked well and it was a good track. Now in AdP Carmen which is excellent.
 

Davey Boyd

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Seven Compostelas in Three years and counting......
You have a dog following you?

Buen Camino!
Davey

PS Hey Mikelan I see you are from Rottingdean, I live in Hove Actually!
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese,Frances,Norte,Salvador/primitivo,Le puy, Inglés, CDM, Invierno, Fin/Mux, VDLP spring19
You sound at peace with your walk Mikelan.
I read from your words that after some drizzly days, you had the sun shining and as a result had your shadow walking with you.!
A comforting & noiseless companion .
Buen Camino
Annie
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
The municipal AdP in Torremejia was excellent as was the suckling pig. Headed off for Merida at 0715 and walked along the ( dry) track which was well marked. Arrived at 1015 and enjoyed the 2000 year old roman bridge into the city but was surprised that the pilgrim route did not go over the other Roman bridge next to the aqueduct. Route to the embalse de prosperina was clear and stopped for a while when my Estonia walking companion for the day went for a swim! It was warm. Lovely and clearly marked route to Aljucen and now in the excellent AdP Rio Aljucen. Please note that there is now a brand new AdP in El carrascalejo complete with phone number for the key. It's about 13.5km from Merida. Plan to go to the Roman baths tonight. Off to Aldea del Cano in the morning which is about 35km. The 30 today went well so should be a good stroll. One of the joys of the Camino is the surprises. Today it was a man with a cart and two mules coming into the AdP! Only problem was the cart was too high to get in.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Aljucen to Aldea del Cano today. 35kms and 7 hours. As I didn't get here until 1400 wasn't sure if there would be a bed spare as they only have 13! Luckily there was. A lovely walking day with a wide variety of terrain and not too much sun. Also another couple of really old bridges. The Roman baths last night was fun and the massage was good. At weekends they do Roman style food complete with couches. Ate at Bar Sergio last night and had an excellent meal with lots of vino. Had to tell the lady when we wanted to eat and how many of us but it was well worth the effort. AdP in Aldea is clean and well set up and it even has a washing machine. Bar Las Vegas does good food at the owner (?) speaks a little English.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Turned out there are only 2 of us in the Aldea AdP. I was told that 30 pelegronos walked by yesterday and I thought the VdlP was supposed to be quiet.
 

chinasky

Italian Pilgrim
Camino(s) past & future
Aragones, Frances, Inglese, Primitivo, Via de la Plata, Invierno, Portoguese. From Torino to Rome.
I thought the VdlP was supposed to be quiet.
Not this time, not everyday. I've heard of 30/35 pilgrims that had left Sevilla last saturday and that there's bed rush like on the french way. I'm gonna leave tonight and i really hope to not have to run for a bed...
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Aldea del Cano to Cascar de Caceres via Caceres about 32 km. Good day with a good walk. Needed to get to CdC as all the accommodation at the next stop (25km) is closed or full apparently. So have to go on to Canaveral which is just 11km further. Knew that there would be pressure on the beds at CdC because of this but managed to get one ok. That said there are a lot of disappointed walkers coming in now looking tired. Also because of this I booked my bed at the next place as it will likely be full there as well and I don't want to rush. So all fine now and should be a relaxing walk tomorrow even though there are lots of ups and downs. Owing to the rush here I bagged my bed then came out for lunch. Just had one plate of food but they still insist of giving a bottle of wine with it. All for 6 euros! Washing and preps for tomorrow should be fun later. Bed issue made worse by cyclist bagging a bed before they registers. To top is all they put their filthy bags on the bed so I told them NO! Think they were surprises but they've removed the bags! AdP is ok but very cramped as beds and showers and WCs are all together. Still at least there is a bed
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Aldea del Cano to Cascar de Caceres via Caceres about 32 km. Good day with a good walk. Needed to get to CdC as all the accommodation at the next stop (25km) is closed! So have to go on to Canaveral which is just 11km further. Knee that there would be pressure on the beds at CdC because of this but managed to get one ok. That said there are a lot of disappointed walkers coming in now looking tired. Also because of this I booked my bed at the next place as it will likely be full there as well and I don't want to rush. So all fine now and should be a relaxing walk tomorrow even though there are lots of ups and downs. Owing to the rush here I bagged my bed then came out for lunch. Just had one plate of food but they still insist of giving a bottle of wine with it. All for 6 euros! Washing and preps for tomorrow should be fun later. Must say that the washing machine and dryer are a real bonus in the municipal AdP here. Also there are apparently at least two other places to stay but I don't know what they are like. There is another private AdP ands Hostal Rural signed to the right before you get to the municipal. Also, if the municipal seems full there are another 8 beds in the room to the left of the stairs and you have to ask at bar El Siglo opposite to get the room opened. Seems to be the best rooms!
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Canaveral AdP was as expected and fully booked. Probably not helped by the bank holiday weekend and the 7 or more Spanish non perigrinos who were staying there whilst having a little walking weekend. Walked to Carcaboso via Galisteo about 35 Kms. Mostly a very nice walk with lots of variety. There is one place were the route splits but as mention by others the original way is open again. However, it seems there is still some bad blood as the disputed land had a sign that warned of dangerous animals and when I walked up the fenced in track I came across a very large bull! I stopped and considered my actions then decided to walk on slowly and play opera. Seem to work as he ignored me! Galisteo is a lovely looking walled town but unfortunately being 1200 on a bank holiday sun it was closed. The last 11 km to Carcaboso was fairly dull as it was all on Tarmac. Still got to the lovely AdP all fine at 1400. It used to be a municipal but now appears to be privately run as I was told by a peligrino here that they had booked a room! Bad new re booking. But that said there are only 8 people here now. Now ready to eat as previous nights place had no shop and nothing open on the way so 35 km done on water and cereal bars. Could see snow on distant hills but still clear blue skies and about 25 degs! Camino legs now seem to be in place so the hills seem easy.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Carcaboso to Aldeanueva del Camino via Caparra about 38 km. Caparra is the remains of an old roman town and the visitor centre has food and drink. Unfortunately, it was closed! Even the local Spanish guy that was with me for the last 10 Km was surprised. Site is nothing special if you see those in Italy. In fact the 'famous' Caparra arch is insignificant compared to the Roman arch on the outskirts of Napoli which cars drive through every day. So carried on walking. Today's walk was probably one of the best so far for track and scenery. Lots of meadows and the snow capped mountains getting closer. Got to the point where I was going to turn off towards a hostel but was feeling good so carried on to AdC which is probably the pretties village so far. AdP La Casa de mi Abuela is excellent so all I need now is some beer and a large steak! track was good but had to rely on granite blocks instead of yellow arrows. Most streams were fine except for the one just after you first go under the road before AdC. Had to go up the slip road and follow the Tarmac for a few hundred metres.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
AdC to Fuenterroble de Salvatierra about 39 km. Mostly a good walk today. When leaving AdC there are a couple of other places to stay. Look like truck stops but it's a bed and given the numbers that's important. Told today that one person could not get a bed where planned and ended up walking 50 km and that's too much for me. First 9 km was on road and not too nice and frankly a little dangerous as there is not much spare Tarmac on the ensues. But great after that until towards the end I slipped off a stepping stone. Probably the same one SYates mentioned. Then I came to the bit where she said take the left route and not the right as it might be flooded. Well is been dry for 10 days - I can confirm the right track is still a pond! In fact it would be better if it was not marked as an option. Now in the wonderful Municipal AdP and looking forward to the communial meal.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
FdS to San Pedro de Rozados only 26km! Got here at 1215. It's only 22 km to Salamanca where I'm stopping tomorrow so no point in going any further today. First 12 km or so was along an old drovers track that was a Roman road complete with milestones. These drover tracks cross cross all over Spain for hundreds of kms. Despite it still being warm (26+) the trees are still not in full leaf. Great views of the mountains as I left this morning as a definite change of landscape as it gets a bit more arable in style. Had the communal meal last night which was interesting and adequate but I wouldn't bother to repeat it! Overall, the route was well marked but the wooden posts with a yellow triangle are not the best markers. No least because they seem to have used equilateral triangles so sometimes is hard to know which way the 'arrow' is pointing, especially when the two options are equally spaced with the post in the centre
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
SPdR to Salamanca 22 km A sort of rest day. Simple walk into the city and a nice way in as we I did not have to walk through the suburbs. Virtually right to the old bridge with hardly touching a road. The Albergue Casa Milario in San Pedro is closed and empty. So just 14 beds in the other one which was good as was the meal in VII Carreras which also has posh rooms. Was introduced to a new Camino app a couple of days ago. Called Via de la Plata. It's one of the wise pilgrims apps and inc gps track, map, elevation info and accommodation info. Really good.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Salamanca to El Cubo de Tierra del Vino about 34km. Arrived at 1400 having walked half in rain and the other half on a very boring flatish stretch alongside a major road. Not pretty and just a slog. Evidently, the Camino is flooded just after here so we need to walk on the road to Zamora tomorrow. Still, what be must be. Some of the way markings were very confusing on this step with some being crossed out. Without the gps o would have found it difficult
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Cubo de Vino to Zamora about 29km. Turned out to be a good walk. Stayed dry and found a good alternative route avoiding the flooded Camino between Cubo and Villanueva de Campean. Took the road to Perdegon which was quiet and the cut back down to the Camino. Added advantage being coffee stop at Corrales de Vino. Last 10km was on a good track with ultimately a great route into the old city over the obligatory old bridge. Generally flat lands but pleasant except when you just see a long track ahead! Now in AdP municipal which is excellent.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Just catching up with your posts, Mikelan. Sounds like the Vdlp is experiencing its own version of the bed race, that's crazy! Zamora is one of my absolute favorite places in Spain, love the old churches in the local red marbled stone. If you are so inclined, check out Daniel in the Lion's Den on the wall of the church right next to the albergue. I am always moved by it for some reason. Nice little park there for sitting and chilling, too.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Yes I thought Zamora was one of the best cities so far and a lovely way in.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
From Zamora to Montamarta was all fine but the route after to Riego del Camino is a mess on the way to where the short cut on the road to Tabara slid the route seems to have been altered and you end up scrambling across mud piles. There are multiple signs in different directions. When you get to the roundabout where the Tabara road is and where the N631 and N630 divide you must take the N630 exit then after a few hundred metres turn right where there is a Camino sign with a blue arrow. We didn't and followed anther Camino sign and ended up walking 2 km and turning back. After that all is fine. The AdP in RdC is sparse but ok the bar did a meal which was just average and overpriced. We ate in an excellent restaurant in Zamora just befor the AdP that only charges 8 euros for a large good meal and lots of fine wine. In RdC we were charged 9 euros for a very basic meal! There is an alternative there with an advertised house that offers meals for perigrinos for a donativo.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Just walked from Tabara to Villanueva de las Peras and its near 13.5 km than the 18 In my book. More importantly there is an excellent AdP and restaurant here called La Mona. It's 10. Euro for the bed and 10 for the meal which also lops excellent. Pity it's too early for me to stop.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Tabara to Santa Croya de la Tera only 23 km if you believe the book ! Short walk today as I need to plan the next few stages carefully. Firstly because I want the next stop to be at Rionegro del Puente because there is a famous and excellent restaurant there called Me Gusta Comer. Also there is a stretch of hills to go up soon and I try to do them at the start and not the end of the day. We stopped at Villanueva de las Peras on the way today which is where the great breakfast was. Turned out it was also a perfect AdP complete with a menu that looked so good we considered walking back there for dinner tonight Early this morning we think we saw a wolf. It was a bit far away to id it but by its size, colour and the way it moved it makes me fairly certain. Especially as unlike the local dogs it ran away very quickly when it saw us.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Currently in Santa Croce de Tera and the hospitalier tells me they are expecting 52 peligrinos tomorrow
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Spoke to the hospitaleros again later and it seems we had a translation problem between her my French companion and me - it's 32 she was expecting! SCdT to Rionegro del Puente about 28 km. Simple and lovely walk today along good tracks and across one of the major dams here which is in full flood owing to the rain. The route to the dam seems to have changed from my gps route which now takes a roindabout way in and adds a bout 1 km. We have been lucky so far as we have had no rain while walking except for a few minutes of light drizzle. Hopefully a good meal tonight that includes quails dipped in chocolate!
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
RdP to Puebla de Sanabria about 40 km. we had torrential rain last night but lucky it stopped by 0630 when we left. Tried the Camino first but it was flooded so went along the road to Mombuey. Took the Camino from there which was a great choice as it was a good track with surprisingly good villages along it. However, at Asturianos we had to go back to the road as the way is flooded. Tomorrow we start to climb the mountains and head for Lubian. Best of all we stayed dry today. The forecast is better for tomorrow which is good as this morning it was only 9 degs and we go high up tomorrow.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
PdS to Lubian about 30km and a climp to 1400m. Took the road after PdS as we were warned of some flooding on the Camino. But once the road headed up hill we got back onto the Camino which turned out to be a good track. However, lots of disruption on the way owing to the AVE. So kept to the path as indicated by the diversions and all went well. A little chilly at the top but nothing significant - I'm still in my shorts! Got to Lubian pretty quickly given the hills ( Camino fitness really showing now) and got to the municipal AdP which turns out to be very simple. Clean but grim. One shower and one wc in one room for 14 people and no communal area - 4 of the beds are on the kitchen. Went for lunch to let the rush for facilities die down and will probably have a simple meal from the shop tonight. With wine at about 2 euros a bottle ( don't like the 90 cent stuff!) of course.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Lubian to A Gudina about 25km but with plenty of hills. Last nights AdP was not the best. 14 beds in one small room with a cacophony of snorers and a pvc bed covering did not make for a pleasant night. Still got out at 0630 to follow the path and not the road. Great track and probably as a route it is on the top three for this Camino. Wonderful scenery and a nice hard climb. A little damp in places but nothing serious. Got to A Guidina and talked to someone already in the AdP which they said smelt bad. It's still a temporary place as the main AdP is still closed after debugging. Decided to avoid and the next three places were full! Luckily, we walked a bit more down the road and got a twin room with ensuite for 15 euros each in hotel suizo. Happy now. We entered the region of Galacia today and there was a definite improvement in the way.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
AG to Laza 34 km. lovely walk today. Magnificent meal last night and the bar was open this morning at 0630 so we could have a coffee and croissant. Within the hour the sun was shining and we were upon top of the mountain. We took the Campobecertos Laze route which we were told was open. It was excellent, but it was a Sunday. Lots of evidence of building traffic from the AVE and if they still use it in the week I think it would be unusable. Walked through spectacular scenery today right to the minute we entered Laza as we came down the spine of the mountain through gorse and heather. Found the AdP easily and got settled in. Then of to done lunch and somewhere to eat tonight. 23 degs today so it nice to be outside.
 

Peregrinopaul

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
VdlP(2012) Madrid(2014)Frances(2015) VdlP(2016)
VdlP(2017)Sanabres (2018) Frances reverse(2018)
Lots of evidence of building traffic from the AVE and if they still use it in the week I think it would be unusable.
Hi MikeIan. Can you give me a little more info on this? Unusable is worrying!
Thanks for the informative posts.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
The road looks like ot is being used by very large trucks moving the spoil from the works to a dumping ground. My the marks either side of the road there would appear to be no room for walkers! So if they are still using it then it would be dangerous for walkers. We walked on a Sunday so it was fine. No idea if it's ok other times but we were told by someone in A Guidiythatbot was ok.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Laza to Xunqueira about 34 km. clear and sunny again today. 6 degs at the start but now about 24. Lovely walk today with plenty of variety and probably the hardest climb on this Camino. Long hard walk up the tracks but well worth the effort.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
It's seems to be getting harder to get this web site to load on my phone. It keeps crashing and loads extremely slowly. Clearly too many photos and adverts!
 

alansykes

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
AG to Laza 34 km. lovely walk today. Magnificent meal last night and the bar was open this morning at 0630 so we could have a coffee and croissant. Within the hour the sun was shining and we were upon top of the mountain. We took the Campobecertos Laze route which we were told was open. It was excellent, but it was a Sunday. Lots of evidence of building traffic from the AVE and if they still use it in the week I think it would be unusable. Walked through spectacular scenery today right to the minute we entered Laza as we came down the spine of the mountain through gorse and heather. Found the AdP easily and got settled in. Then of to done lunch and somewhere to eat tonight. 23 degs today so it nice to be outside.
That high road after A Gudiña is one of my favourite days of any camino - on a sharp edge with Portugal to your left and the reservoir down below to the north, just spectacular.

Hi MikeIan. Can you give me a little more info on this? Unusable is worrying!
Thanks for the informative posts.
There's a lot of lorry traffic dumping AVE waste up there, but I left the albergue at 7.30am and missed most of the worst - and the road is quite wide, so it's not all that bad even when the lorries do thunder past you.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Xunqueira de Ambia to Orense only 22 km. First part of the walk was fine but then we got to the suburbs which are never pleasant to walk through. In fact 22 km today felt like 35 km! At least it was another dry day. Unfortunately we arrived at 1100 and the AdP does not open until 1300 Frustrating as they know pilgrims will arrive early as it is a short stage for most and it would be nice to get in and change so could have a stroll around the city
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Orense to Oseira about 29km. First hour was one steep hill and next 4 hrs was a slightly less steep hill! Luckily the last hour had some downs in it! That said it was a good track for most of the way. Just the last 10 km or so after Cea when it got a little damp on the track. Glad it had not rained for a few days other out would have been difficult. I the Monesterio now which houses the AdP. The place is cold, dark and miserable but I'm not walking any further today.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
Oseira to A Laxe 29 km. Misty and drizzle for the first 11 km with a steep rocky climb for the first 2 km. path to Castro Dozon was flooded in places and overgrown. It will need a machete in the next few weeks. Walk after CD was fine and with only a little way on the road. Got to AL at 1245 and waiting for the AdP to open hopefully at 1300. Managed to stop the bread van on the way so have some lovely fresh bread for lunch.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
AL to Ponte Ulla about 28 km. lovely walk this morning. Started at 0630 as usual and it was a misty but dry day. First 9 km to Silleda were through dappled shade along a Roman road that led to a very old bridge that was now in the middle of nowhere next to a beautiful river. Mist lifted quickly so the rest of the walk was in sunshine. All through pleasant countryside with very little road walking. Got to PU at 1215 and once checked into the room had a little pilgrims picnic. Good single room with ensuite and all for 10 euros. Stayed in AdP O Cruceiro and there is a Pension Juanito just after the bridge that does good rooms for 12 euros. Off the Santiago de Compostela tomorrow for the final 21 kms
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
I'm here! Santiago de Compostela at 1045 21 May 2016. Excellent day walking from PU. Surprisingly good walk into the city with a very quick transition from the country to seeing the cathedral. From the other routes it's not so clear. Great walk today with just a single cafe until I got to SdC. Got to the cathedral with all the emotion you would expect. Pleased to be finished. Sad to be finished. Enjoying the celebration of all the other peligrinos. Said a short goodbye to my walking companions as we will meet again tonight and went to my hotel. Too early for the room so got my hair and beard cut then went looking for the market. last time I was here we found the market but were too late. So I really wanted to get there on time. Got there ok and the restaurants will cook the food you buy at the market for 4 euros. Much confusion as I tried to buy the fish until I realised that the restaurant would only cook meat or shellfish in the summer! Those conversations really challenged my Spanish! all sorted with a large plate of langostines and a lovely bottle of white wine. But took a conversation in English to understand the details - which was probably the most spoken English I've used in five weeks! Now feeling very mellow and getting sorted out for the evening. On my way back from the market I saw my Italian friend who was looking very concerned. So we went for a coffee and it turned out he could not find accommodation for later in the week when he returned from finisterre. No problem. Booking. Com showed places so I walked With him to an AdP with a place for two nights for 36 euros which he wanted. Much fun with English to Italian and then Spanish to sort it out.
The books seem a little unclear about the AdP in Outeiro. I spoke to a few people who stayed there that all said the accommodation was done but few utensils on the kitchen and the nearest bar was 1 km. glad I stayed in PU. After PU the books are a little obscure about cafes. There may be cafes in A Susana but not on the Camino. However there are cafes further in right next the Camino! That's all for now. Unfortunately this web site is so flaky it's taken more than an hour to post this so no more until I'm home.
 

MikeJS

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francis (2011), Norte (2012), VdlP (Apr 2016). Sureste/Invierno (Apr/May 2017).
23 May was my last ast day in SdC having spent nearly 3 days here. It's still a wonderful city with excellent tapas bars and restaurants. The perigrinos just add an extra patina to the whole place for me. It's a strange mix of feelings both in arriving and in leaving. Camino friends that you will probably not see or hear from again but friends no less. Spent a good few hours wandering around the city and besides the obvious things it's amazing how clean and litter free it. In fact it puts Brighton to shame. There must be dozens of street cleaners here and they even pick up all the cigarette ends! The VdlP is definitely my favourite Camino ( so far!) both for it's amazing mixture of scenery and the friendliness of the people. Galicia is definitely my favourite region and it seems a great pity that it is being depopulated so much as witnessed by the huge number of empty and derelict properties and the age of the people left in the villages. Buon Camino.
 

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