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Any recent information on the Camino Torres?

Magwood

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (15 April 2013)
Camino Portuguese (1 May 2014)
Camino Mozárabe from Málaga (8 April 2015)
Camino del Norte & Camino Ingles (April 2016)
#1
I'm thinking about walking the Torres next year, can anyone provide shortcuts to info so save me reinventing the wheel? Is there any albergue infrastructure on this route, or is it likely to be rather expensive?
 

mla1

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF (2000); Ch St. Giles (2013); Le Puy to SJPP (May/June 2015); vdlp 2016
#6
Last year I saw a magazine article about the Torres route; it was in a standard format glossy travel magazine that I think was specifically focused on all the Caminos - is that possible? Is there a camino magazine? In any case, a Spanish travel magazine (that may or may not be just about caminos) ran a cover story on the Camino del Torres last spring - maybe in the april issue? (I saw the magazine in the public library in Zamora in April).
 

Magwood

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (15 April 2013)
Camino Portuguese (1 May 2014)
Camino Mozárabe from Málaga (8 April 2015)
Camino del Norte & Camino Ingles (April 2016)
#7
Thank you Laurie. I put ’Torres' in the search facility and was directed to the other thread and in my enthusiasm I jumped straight in.

Well, I know what I shall be doing for many hours to come! Thanks so much @KinkyOne - it's too hot here to do much outside, so I shall happily while away my time following your links

Not sure if it is by amazing coincidence or if he saw my post, but I have just received a mail from @amsimoes with links, and info that he plans to walk the Torres next year. I met Aurelio in Lisbon in 2014 and he and his lovely wife were kind enough to dedicate several hours to showing @eli and me around their wonderful city.

If there are links that aren't included above, I will post them later.

What a treat if I can walk with two sets of forum members next year with a section in between wandering alone. The best of both worlds...a sort of forum sandwich! I don't normally allow myself to get too excited about my next camino until the the new year, but already I can feel it rising!

Gracias camigos!
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#8
Last year I saw a magazine article about the Torres route; it was in a standard format glossy travel magazine that I think was specifically focused on all the Caminos - is that possible? Is there a camino magazine? In any case, a Spanish travel magazine (that may or may not be just about caminos) ran a cover story on the Camino del Torres last spring - maybe in the april issue? (I saw the magazine in the public library in Zamora in April).
I've seen sort of a Camino magazine A4 size (Spanish) in Avila albergue in 2015. I forgot what association is the official publisher though. Maybe someone from Spanish associations would know, like @JLWV from Levante???
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#9
Amazing, @KinkyOne ! The photos on the O Meu Camiño Torres FaceBook link are very nice!!
The official site (first link) has many more of them. Click on desired etapa and scroll down. Plenty of beautiful photos. Click on the first one and they'll expand. I've been through them a few times and I'm sure Torres is a real hidden gem.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
#10
The official site (first link) has many more of them. Click on desired etapa and scroll down. Plenty of beautiful photos. Click on the first one and they'll expand. I've been through them a few times and I'm sure Torres is a real hidden gem.
I'm hoping to do the Torres from Salamanca to Régua this autumn (if my knees hold up), and will post wikiloc trails if I do (then planning to turn right and follow the CPI up to Verín).

A Spanish bicigrino has recently posted many pics but little information on Youtube:
 
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KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#11
I'm hoping to do the Torres from Salamanca to Régua this autumn (if my knees hold up), and will post wikiloc trails if I do (then planning to turn right and follow the CPI up to Verín).

A Spanish bicigrino has recently posted many pics but little information on Youtube:
Wow, what a slow paced video for a bicigrino :D

And very interesting choice of music also ;)
 
Camino(s) past & future
'03CF, '08VdlP, '12Porto, '14VdlP via Port '15CPI ‘17Levante to Toledo
#12
My dear ladies, as I'm very happy for you to plan to walk it I'm kind of disappointed that I (most possibly) won't be the forum pioneer on that route :)
Anyway I think at least two forum members already walked the Torres. I will share all my links with you. So here we go: (lots of links) I think that will occupy you for some time :D
Kinky, youre a legend!! Sooooo awesomely helpful :p on all the weird and wonderful caminos
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2010), Portugues (2011), Promitivo (2013), VdlP (2014), Camino Ingles (2016)
#13
I'm hoping to do the Torres from Salamanca to Régua this autumn (if my knees hold up), and will post wikiloc trails if I do (then planning to turn right and follow the CPI up to Verín).

A Spanish bicigrino has recently posted many pics but little information on Youtube:
Hi Alan, When do you plan to start? Hoping you are ahead of myself and my wife, Pauline, and can offer us advice. We are planning to leave Salamanca on September 24.

I am concerned at the disappearance of http://caminosantiago.usal.es/torres website. I haven't been able to access it for the past week.

Liam
 
Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
#14
Hi Alan, When do you plan to start? Hoping you are ahead of myself and my wife, Pauline, and can offer us advice. We are planning to leave Salamanca on September 24.

I am concerned at the disappearance of http://caminosantiago.usal.es/torres website. I haven't been able to access it for the past week.

Liam
Hi Liam,

I won't be getting to Salamanca until probably early November, so will be well behind you and looking forward to picking up any tips you have to offer.

The Torres website is a bit hit and miss (and very useful when it's working), but with the term starting shortly at Salamanca university, perhaps it will be running again soon? In the mean time, Ray y Rosa have posted the whole trail on wikiloc

https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=10949409
and a bit more information on their website (although some of the links don't work):

http://www.rayyrosa.com/caminotorres.htm

Hope you enjoy it.

Alan
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2010), Portugues (2011), Promitivo (2013), VdlP (2014), Camino Ingles (2016)
#15
Hi Liam,

I won't be getting to Salamanca until probably early November, so will be well behind you and looking forward to picking up any tips you have to offer.

The Torres website is a bit hit and miss (and very useful when it's working), but with the term starting shortly at Salamanca university, perhaps it will be running again soon? In the mean time, Ray y Rosa have posted the whole trail on wikiloc

https://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=10949409
and a bit more information on their website (although some of the links don't work):

http://www.rayyrosa.com/caminotorres.htm

Hope you enjoy it.

Alan
Thanks Alan, Only seeing your reply now as I have had a busy week.

The Torres website is back online. Also I was in touch with RayyRosa some months ago.

I plan to post details of our progress on a daily basis, assuming I have the energy. Hopefully we will be of some assistance to you and others.

Liam
 

he.panpub

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
18 Sagrès Santiago17 Camino Torrès, C Primitivo; 16 C Portugues ;15 CFrancès; 2014 Via Podensis
#16
I'm thinking about walking the Torres next year, can anyone provide shortcuts to info so save me reinventing the wheel? Is there any albergue infrastructure on this route, or is it likely to be rather expensive?
Hi ! It's not links, but recent experience !
I started from Salamanca on 22th of August 2017 and finished in SdC on September, the 13th. For the first three stages, I slept on basic Albergue (old school) in Robliza de Cojos, San Munoz and Alba de Yeltes with excellent and nice welcome : go to the first bar to have an answer for the key of the albergue. In Ciudad Rodrigo in a residencial . In Aldea de Obispo in Albergue Municipal, ask for the key in a bar also. From Almeida to Lamego, I slept in Residencial and I paid from 17.5 € t0 25 €, sometimes with breakfast, sometimes not. In Mesao Frio, the Hotel was definitively closed and finaly, I slept to Bombeiros Voluntarios : I tried to find a room, but had no opportunities. In Amarante, I went to the youth Albergue. In Guimaraes, I had to take an Hotel, because the youth albergue was full. In Braga, it was in a private accomodation "Obra de Santa Zita". In Ponte de Lima, I made junction with the Camino Portugues and I found Albergue de Peregrinos (public albergue : 6 €). In Pontevedra, rather than going to Caldas de Reis, I walked on the "Variante Espiritual" going to Armenteira, Vilanova de Arousa and finaly, in Pontecesures, I met the Camino Portugues again.
I used a GPS and it was useful sometimes, especialy on first stages !!!.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
#17
Hi ! It's not links, but recent experience !
I started from Salamanca on 22th of August 2017 and finished in SdC on September, the 13th. For the first three stages, I slept on basic Albergue (old school) in Robliza de Cojos, San Munoz and Alba de Yeltes with excellent and nice welcome : go to the first bar to have an answer for the key of the albergue. In Ciudad Rodrigo in a residencial . In Aldea de Obispo in Albergue Municipal, ask for the key in a bar also. From Almeida to Lamego, I slept in Residencial and I paid from 17.5 € t0 25 €, sometimes with breakfast, sometimes not. In Mesao Frio, the Hotel was definitively closed and finaly, I slept to Bombeiros Voluntarios : I tried to find a room, but had no opportunities. In Amarante, I went to the youth Albergue. In Guimaraes, I had to take an Hotel, because the youth albergue was full. In Braga, it was in a private accomodation "Obra de Santa Zita". In Ponte de Lima, I made junction with the Camino Portugues and I found Albergue de Peregrinos (public albergue : 6 €). In Pontevedra, rather than going to Caldas de Reis, I walked on the "Variante Espiritual" going to Armenteira, Vilanova de Arousa and finaly, in Pontecesures, I met the Camino Portugues again.
I used a GPS and it was useful sometimes, especialy on first stages !!!.
Very welcome info. Thank you!
 

Magwood

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (15 April 2013)
Camino Portuguese (1 May 2014)
Camino Mozárabe from Málaga (8 April 2015)
Camino del Norte & Camino Ingles (April 2016)
#19
Hi ! It's not links, but recent experience !
I started from Salamanca on 22th of August 2017 and finished in SdC on September, the 13th. For the first three stages, I slept on basic Albergue (old school) in Robliza de Cojos, San Munoz and Alba de Yeltes with excellent and nice welcome : go to the first bar to have an answer for the key of the albergue. In Ciudad Rodrigo in a residencial . In Aldea de Obispo in Albergue Municipal, ask for the key in a bar also. From Almeida to Lamego, I slept in Residencial and I paid from 17.5 € t0 25 €, sometimes with breakfast, sometimes not. In Mesao Frio, the Hotel was definitively closed and finaly, I slept to Bombeiros Voluntarios : I tried to find a room, but had no opportunities. In Amarante, I went to the youth Albergue. In Guimaraes, I had to take an Hotel, because the youth albergue was full. In Braga, it was in a private accomodation "Obra de Santa Zita". In Ponte de Lima, I made junction with the Camino Portugues and I found Albergue de Peregrinos (public albergue : 6 €). In Pontevedra, rather than going to Caldas de Reis, I walked on the "Variante Espiritual" going to Armenteira, Vilanova de Arousa and finaly, in Pontecesures, I met the Camino Portugues again.
I used a GPS and it was useful sometimes, especialy on first stages !!!.
Thank you, most welcome information.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Norte, Primitivo, Plata, Salvador Torres
#20
I'm thinking about walking the Torres next year, can anyone provide shortcuts to info so save me reinventing the wheel? Is there any albergue infrastructure on this route, or is it likely to be rather expensive?
I walked the Torres in June this year (details on my blog inaoncaminotorres.blogspot.fr). There are albergues in the first four villages you come to because there is no other form of accommodation available, and then as from Ponte de Lima as you join the Camino Portugues. In many of the other places there are youth hostels or residences at reasonable prices. You will find the some of the "relatos" on the "usal" website useful - google camino de torres.

This camino is marvelous, though I found it quite strenuous; but if I could walk it at 77 anybody can...
pelerine
 
Camino(s) past & future
Norte, Primitivo, Plata, Salvador Torres
#21
I'm thinking about walking the Torres next year, can anyone provide shortcuts to info so save me reinventing the wheel? Is there any albergue infrastructure on this route, or is it likely to be rather expensive?
PS to my reply this morning: my blog is in English and French...
 

Magwood

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (15 April 2013)
Camino Portuguese (1 May 2014)
Camino Mozárabe from Málaga (8 April 2015)
Camino del Norte & Camino Ingles (April 2016)
#22
I walked the Torres in June this year (details on my blog inaoncaminotorres.blogspot.fr). There are albergues in the first four villages you come to because there is no other form of accommodation available, and then as from Ponte de Lima as you join the Camino Portugues. In many of the other places there are youth hostels or residences at reasonable prices. You will find the some of the "relatos" on the "usal" website useful - google camino de torres.

This camino is marvelous, though I found it quite strenuous; but if I could walk it at 77 anybody can...
pelerine
Thanks so much for is information. I will take a look at your blog...I should be walking fit by the time I start the Torres so hopefully will cope with the terrain.
 

RodlaRob

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Torres (2016) Portuguese (2016)
#23
Don't forget ....as I have stated in previous Torres posts .... contact Luis Quintales (the Salamanca University Professor behind creating this Camino in honour of Diego de Torres Villarroel (himself a Salamanca Professor!). he created the GPS tracks.
Coming from Australia he helped create a great experience for me right from the start! plus downloaded on my phone all gps tracks needed.
 
#24
Though I am not going to be able to walk this Camino in 2018, it is very high on my camino wish list. But for me the difficult decision comes in trying to decide between the Caminho Portugues Interior from Viseu to Chaves and on to the Sanabres at Lalin and this one.

I think that @alansykes may have a plan to combine the two, so I will just sit tight and see where he winds up, but I'm wondering if any of those who have walked it have any thoughts. The two do intersect at Lamego/Mesao Frio or somewhere near there.

Leaving the Torres at Lamego would mean missing Amarante, Guimaraes and Braga, all of which are really nice places. But the Torres does have the downside (at least for people wanting to avoid crowds) that it merges with the Camino Portugues at Ponte de Lima, and from there northward is likely to be crowded.
 

he.panpub

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
18 Sagrès Santiago17 Camino Torrès, C Primitivo; 16 C Portugues ;15 CFrancès; 2014 Via Podensis
#25
Very welcome info. Thank you!
Hi, modestly, I've tried to make some movies about Camino Torrès. For the moment, only 3
From Salmanca to Ciudad Rodrigo ; partie I : https://youtu.be/vXxoMQtegH0
From Ciudad Rodrigo to Trancoso ; partie II :
From Trancoso to Lamego ; partie III :
The following movies not before 5 or 6 weeks.
Henri
 

Tyson

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Plan to walk VDLP in Apr, 2016
#26
Hi ! It's not links, but recent experience !
I started from Salamanca on 22th of August 2017 and finished in SdC on September, the 13th. For the first three stages, I slept on basic Albergue (old school) in Robliza de Cojos, San Munoz and Alba de Yeltes with excellent and nice welcome : go to the first bar to have an answer for the key of the albergue. In Ciudad Rodrigo in a residencial . In Aldea de Obispo in Albergue Municipal, ask for the key in a bar also. From Almeida to Lamego, I slept in Residencial and I paid from 17.5 € t0 25 €, sometimes with breakfast, sometimes not. In Mesao Frio, the Hotel was definitively closed and finaly, I slept to Bombeiros Voluntarios : I tried to find a room, but had no opportunities. In Amarante, I went to the youth Albergue. In Guimaraes, I had to take an Hotel, because the youth albergue was full. In Braga, it was in a private accomodation "Obra de Santa Zita". In Ponte de Lima, I made junction with the Camino Portugues and I found Albergue de Peregrinos (public albergue : 6 €). In Pontevedra, rather than going to Caldas de Reis, I walked on the "Variante Espiritual" going to Armenteira, Vilanova de Arousa and finaly, in Pontecesures, I met the Camino Portugues again.
I used a GPS and it was useful sometimes, especialy on first stages !!!.
We stopped over in Rodrigo earlier this year and I thought that it would make a great alternative for me if I wanted to walk the VdlP again... I'd love to walk Seville to Salamanca and then divert to the Torres to SdC... so as usual @Magwood, I'll follow your blog with interest!

There are a few photos of Rodrigo in my blog... https://caminobrassblog.wordpress.com/2017/02/20/one-camino/
Hello, I plan to use wikiloc/iPhone and follow yellow arrows, will be walking solo in spring. What is the chance of getting lost in the middle of nowhere with no people? How is mobile signal? Any other suggestions on navigation ?

Thank you
 

george.g

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
French way 10, 11
Norte 12
Vdlp 13
Levante 14
Mozarabe/Malaga 15
Augusta 16
Mozarabe/Almeria 17
#27
Hi Tyson.
I bought a iPad mini to use as a navigation device and downloaded wikiloc, only to discover that I’d stupidly bought something that needed to be connected to WiFi to enable gps.
To overcome this error, I bought a Garmin Glo (from Amazon, not cheap)which is a stand alone satellite receiver that can blue tooth to my iPad, it works well, apparently many light aircraft pilots use the same system, google..... gps, iPad, garmin glo.
You say you plan to walk the VdeLP in spring 2016? Is that a typo, plus the Torres is not the VdlP.
Regards
George
 

Tyson

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Plan to walk VDLP in Apr, 2016
#28
Hi Tyson.
I bought a iPad mini to use as a navigation device and downloaded wikiloc, only to discover that I’d stupidly bought something that needed to be connected to WiFi to enable gps.
To overcome this error, I bought a Garmin Glo (from Amazon, not cheap)which is a stand alone satellite receiver that can blue tooth to my iPad, it works well, apparently many light aircraft pilots use the same system, google..... gps, iPad, garmin glo.
You say you plan to walk the VdeLP in spring 2016? Is that a typo, plus the Torres is not the VdlP.
Regards
George

Thank you George. I have already walked VDLP in 2016/7 from Sevilla to Santiago. During the research, I found out about Camino Torres.

My biggest fear is got lost since there fewer arrows and almost no other pilgrims. I think I am going to take iPhone and find an offline map app (I heard mymap is good). Will also buy detailed paper map and learn to navigate thru that as well. After all, Prof. Torres did not have GPS, he got thru (I guess with only map and compass).
 

he.panpub

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
18 Sagrès Santiago17 Camino Torrès, C Primitivo; 16 C Portugues ;15 CFrancès; 2014 Via Podensis
#29
Hi everybody !
here's the 2 last videos : from Lamego to Tui (part 4) and from Tui to Santiago (part 5). Notice that after Pontevedra, I went left for walking on Variante Espiritual with the "Translatio : 25 km by boat from Volanova de Arousa to Pontecesures.
partie IV de Lamego à Tui :
partie V de Tui à Santiago :
Regards,
Henri
 
Camino(s) past & future
Many
#30
FWIW, and I'll repeat this same thing for any of the lesser traveled paths, I am happy to collaborate on maps for future guides. I've developed something of a cartography bug while writing the guidebooks and it would be a shame to waste the ability. GPS is good of course but paper is reliable.

The Ponte de Lima to Santiago part is already done, so it is really just the missing 425km from Salamanca.
 
Camino(s) past & future
2013 (Pamplona to Burgos)
2014 (Burgos to Villafranca del Bierzo)
2015 (Villafranca to Santiago)
2016 (Le Puy to Conques; SJPP To Pamplona)
#31
Re the Spanish Camino Magazine, I read this in Burgos Public Library in October. I presume it is available in all large Spanish public libraries.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2009, El Northe 2012, Via de Plata 2013, Primitivo 2014 Portuguise 2015, de Invierno 2016
#32
Hey I am new here - but I have walked some Caminoes and now I search information about the Camino Torre - anyone WHO can help ?
 

he.panpub

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
18 Sagrès Santiago17 Camino Torrès, C Primitivo; 16 C Portugues ;15 CFrancès; 2014 Via Podensis
#33
Hey I am new here - but I have walked some Caminoes and now I search information about the Camino Torre - anyone WHO can help ?
Hi, What do you need ?
Regards,
Henri
 

Donovan

Active Member
#34
I arrived in Ciudad Rodrigo today - what a lovely city. There has been a lot of rain here and there are some water obstacles, though nothing serious. About 1 km before the Rio Arganza, after Robliza de Cojos, I was stopped by a farmer who assured me the river was a metre or more deep, and impassable. I took his advice, returned to Robliza and walked the N-620 to San Muñoz. A long day. On the basis of what I saw next day at the Rio Fresnada I think the Rio Arganza might have been crossable. I regret that I didn’t walk the extra km and make my own assessment.
The etapa between San Muñoz and Alba de Yeltes is very wet. Lots of sheet water on the trail and very wet at low points. Most of the sheet water can be got around with a small diversion through the trees. All pretty simple. There were a couple of ‘boots off’ crossings of ankle deep water at low points, and the Rio Fresnada was just above the knee. Tomás at San Muñoz has maps showing how to divert from the camino to use bridges to cross the Rio Cabrillas and Rio Yeltes. They are the same maps as on the USAL website. The detours add a few km to the day. The albergue at Alba de Yeltes is great, and Aurora is a camino angel.
As expected, not many peregrinos on this route. According to the book at Robliza I am no. 7 for this year.
 
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RodlaRob

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Torres (2016) Portuguese (2016)
#35
Hi Donovan
Great to see your notes! ..... and well done on handling the tough Salamanca- Ciudad Rodrigo stage.
Look forward to future updates. In Almeida ... say gday to the excellent host @ Muralha Residencial for me.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Norte, Primitivo, Plata, Salvador Torres
#36
Yes, Donovan, do keep us updated! It brings it all back.
And thank you, panpub, for all the info you posted (# 16, 25, 29) with photos and videos! I have only just found those and enjoyed them hugely!
 

Donovan

Active Member
#37
Thanks for the encouragement. You have both contributed a lot to my journey planning.
Ciudad Rodrigo to Gallegos de Argañán was a beautiful walk. First four km on a bitumen road, then on minor unpaved roads. Lush green everywhere - you could almost be in Ireland. Lovely rolling hills with plenty of cattle in large paddocks. Including a small herd of juvenile black bulls - future fighters perhaps? They were just curious youngsters to me. A couple of very large buildings, partly in disrepair. At last the occasional stone to sit on and take a break. Until now the ground was too wet to sit on, so it’s been unbroken walking for hours on end. The albergue at Argañán is basic but fine, though there is no hot water. There has been an upgrade - the mattresses on the floor are still there, but now it also has a single bed sitting proudly in the middle of the room. I was well looked after by Julia at the Taberna La Pista. We agreed on chuleta de cerdo con salad, but it also came with potatoes and rice and was sufficient to have fed half the village. The chuletas (there were several) were high on my best-ever list, and the salad was good. The rice and potatoes were hardly touched.

Argañán to Almeida was a walk in two distinct halves. To Aldea de Obispo was superb. Again a little bitumen to get out of town, then a mix of small dirt tracks, farm tracks and long grass which at the moment is soaking wet so my boots and trouser legs were soon saturated. More rolling hills, no serious climbs or descents, and a couple of hours walking in the valley alongside the quickly flowing river. Simply beautiful. There are now poles, signs, culverts etc. on which to paint arrows, so this day is well marked with yellow arrows. Occasionally I also saw those marking the return journey to Salamanca, but it is usually very obvious which is which. From Obispo to Almeida the route is rather ordinary, just pounding along a bitumen road. I imagine this was once a main road, but now carries very little traffic. Some of the views were pretty - huge carpets of bright yellow flowers and the occasional grove of beautifully scented pine trees. Almeida old town in very interesting, and A Muralha hotel/restaurant is very good. There’s a bit of common ground here, the owner being ex-Rhodesian (as it then was) and me being ex-South African.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Norte, Primitivo, Plata, Salvador Torres
#38
Hi Donovan and Henri panpub, it would be a good idea to send links to your personal experience of the Camino Torres to the University of Salamanca website to be included in their "Relatos" section; when preparing my Torres walk it helped me a lot to read how others fared.

http://caminosantiago.usal.es/torres/

Bom caminho, Donovan!
 

Donovan

Active Member
#39
Further update:
A section of the camino path just before Trancoso was impassabl as of a couple of days ago. Immediately after crossing the motorway and the EN-102 it was just a massive swamp. I turned right up the EN-102 and after 300m turned left onto a bitumen road. From that turnoff it is a boring slog of several km to Trancoso. The road is quite busy, has no shoulder and has lots of tight bends so you can’t see oncoming cars. Dodgy! The road and the camino path cross a few times, but each time there was so much water on the path that I stuck to the road.
The water on the path is receding quickly. I think that within a week or two, if the warm weather continues, the problems will be over.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Except the Francés
#40
Wow, there's a lot more water than when I passed that way in November - admittedly in the middle of the longest drought in several years. Strongly recommend the resencial Solar de Se just by the cathedral in Lamego - simple but comfortable, perfect position, decent breakfast from quite early on.

And a bed in Gallegos de Argáñan? - how spoilt you were.
 

Donovan

Active Member
#41
Yes, Solar de Sé is a winner. Not only a good hotel in a great location but top people as well. When I said I would be leaving early they immediately advanced breakfast by half an hour for my convenience.

Further update: There appears to have been a route change between Lamego and Peso de Régua. At the village of Sande The GPS track shows the camino going off to the right, across the A24 and rio Varosa, then through the village of Valdigem. The yellow arrows now take you consistently northwards from Sande eventually linking onto the EN2. Marking is sparse but adequate. I had a few moments of doubt when walking through half metre high grass between stone walls. But it all worked out OK.
 

Donovan

Active Member
#42
I finished the C. Torres at Ponte de Lima a few weeks ago. After all the rain in March and early April I got lucky and had almost perfect weather – only one wet day. I really enjoyed this camino. Highly recommended for those who like to get a little off the beaten track. Parts are quite isolated, particularly the first few days where there are no villages between the start and finish points. After Ciudad Rodrigo I think every day there was at least one interstage village. Hamlets are pretty common towards the end. Some sections in the mountains in Portugal felt quite remote with no one in sight all day. Opening times of bars or shops in the villages before Ciudad Rodrigo are unpredictable. I was perhaps unlucky, but shops were closed or non-existent for three successive days, in Robliza de Cojos, San Muñoz and Alba de Yeltes. It’s advisable to take emergency supplies. It’s a solitary walk and, as expected I met no other pilgrim. The chances of meeting someone are close to zero.

A feature of my journey was the memorable friendliness I encountered from many people all along the way. Aurora and her son-in-law Juan in Alba de Yeltes were exceptional, as was Manuel at A Murallha in Almeida. Café S. Cristovao in O Pereiro (between Almeida and Pinhel) should be a compulsory stop to experience Julieta’s incredible hospitality

I found a GPS track to be essential. I downloaded the track from the forum Resources onto an iPad mini and it was outstandingly accurate. I had moments of doubt when the GPS track sent me down overgrown and narrow pathways which looked like they hadn’t seen another foot in ages, but generally these were short and I was soon in clear air again. The waymarking is highly variable, from excellent to non-existent. There is enough of the latter to make the GPS well worthwhile having.

The way is reasonably demanding but, as a member of Ina’s 77 club, I agree that it is entirely doable. I split some of the USAL stages: a) stage 1 - stayed at hotel La Rad to avoid a long first day; b) between Lamego and Mesão Frío I stayed at Peso de Régua so I could take the train ride to Pocinho (highly recommended); c) between Amarante and Guimarães I stayed at Felguereis to avoid a 38km stage. The first week is mostly flat which was good for me as I had done minimal training and could get some preparation for the hills to come.

There are many delightful towns which should be heavily touristed but aren’t. I spent an extra day in Almeida and in Trancoso just because I liked them, and could easily have done the same in Ciudad Rodrigo, Lamego, Amarante, Guimarães and Braga.

Accommodation was freely available and booking ahead was unnecessary. I mainly followed recommendations by other Forum members (many thanks to all). A few hostels and restaurants to add to the list.

Trancoso - Cantinho dos Arcos just opposite Igreja de Sao Pedro is good. Finish with local specialty Sardinha Doce.

Peso de Régua - Restaurante Adega Guimarães in a side street Travessa do Midao around the corner from the Imperio hotel is good.

Mesão Frio – Casa Portas do Douro is a bit expensive (€70) but well worth it to enjoy the marvellous view up the Douro valley. It is recently opened and everything is brand new. The owner is very helpful. Restaurante Tasca de Zéquina served me an excellent meal. The owner speaks good English. Café Avenida provided the best pastel nata of the entire trip. I rather liked this town, the climb out of it the next day was a different matter.

Felgueiras - accommodation is a bit limited in here. Hotel Horus seems the best option. It provides an apartment for €43 and an outstanding breakfast for €6. Restaurante Hede was very good, one of the best I encountered.

Guimaraes - Hostal MyHotel is well located and good, and Miguel is a genial host who speaks good English. Ristorante Faustinni 99 does excellent Italian food.

Braga - Bragatruthotel is very well located and good in every way. Claudio is very helpful. To get away from tourists and eat where the locals eat, Restaurante Santo Andre, Rua do Sto. Andre 81. Nothing fancy, just solid local dishes.

From Ponte de Lima I diverted to Porto and followed the Senda Litoral/Camino Espiritual to SdC. A lovely combination with the bonus that the Senda Litoral is completely flat almost all the way to Vigo.
 
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Camino(s) past & future
Norte, Primitivo, Plata, Salvador Torres
#43
Lovely! I always enjoyed your reports; and so much useful info about accommodation and restaurants. Have you considered sending a link to your reports to the usal website to be included in the relatos? For anybody planning this camino it so reassuring.

Thanks again!
Ina
 

Donovan

Active Member
#44
Hi Ina, before I left I was in contact with Luis Quintales at USAL to get information on GPS maps. I promised to give him feedback when I finished and am preparing that now..

Off topic, but….I believe you are planning to walk the coastal route later in the year. There is a lot of overlap between the Ruta de la Costa and the Senda Litoral. I got the impression that the trail marking favours the Ruta whereas I wanted to walk the Senda. I downloaded both tracks from Resources and that made it possible to leave the arrows and navigate by GPS when necessary.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Norte, Primitivo, Plata, Salvador Torres
#45
I am always a bit muddled about coastal and litoral. Simplified, without determining which camino it is, end of July/beginning of August I will walk along the coast from Porto to the river Minho, then along the river to Valenca, Tui etc with my two daughters and five of the grandchildren (17 - 11). To keep the children amused we want to stay on the coast and have planned easy stages to suit 11 and 78, yes another year....
 
Camino(s) past & future
Norte, Primitivo, Plata, Salvador Torres
#46
By the way Magwood has just finished the Torres which she had hooked up to the Mozárabe and has hopped across from Ponte de Lima to the coastal Portuguese(litoral?). Interesting read - google magwood.me (?) I think.
 

RodlaRob

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Torres (2016) Portuguese (2016)
#47
Great report Donovan. Makes me want to do it again!
Very useful information...… and a trip down memory lane for me.
Yes … so peaceful, great scenery & very friendly people.
I at least met 2 other pilgrims before Ponte de Lima!
Well done.
 
#48
b) between Lamego and Mesão Frío I stayed at Peso de Régua so I could take the train ride to Pocinho (highly recommended).
It’s been a while since someone mentioned this train ride and I just wanted to echo Donovan's recommendation here. This ride goes right along the river to the hamlet of Pocinho. After the town of Pinhao, the road disappears and you ride through a part of the valley that is inaccessible to cars because of all the rocks and steep hills. Amazing views, it’s really something.

I know that some peregrinos don’t like to mix touring with their Caminos, but if you do, this is not to be missed.

Cheap tickets, little chug chug train. When you get to Pocinho, there are two cafes for the half hour rest stop for the driver. And then you pile back on the train and head back to Regua.

Donovan, do you remember how long it took? Maybe 2 hours total?
 

Donovan

Active Member
#49
The round trip is about three and a half hours - 1 hour 25 minutes in each direction plus about half an hour in Pocinho. Trains leave Peso de Régua at 09:10, 11:10, 15:10 & 17:18. There is also a train at 11:38 but it goes only as far as Tua.

The hotel Imperio is conveniently located just across the street from the railway station.

In post #42 I left out a very nice restaurant in Trancoso. I’ve edited it in.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Ingles & part of Norte (2012), Camino Frances (2015), Camino Portuguese Interior (2017)
#50
I'm thinking about walking the Torres next year, can anyone provide shortcuts to info so save me reinventing the wheel? Is there any albergue infrastructure on this route, or is it likely to be rather expensive?
I walked the Camino Portuguese Interior last year (2017) and plan to walk the full Camino Torres to Santiago starting May 2019. The first 10 days of CPI were lonely and tough -- I was literally the only person walking on the route and in the alburgues until I met up with new Camino friend Anna. We definitely needed GPS in Portugal, less so with it joined up with the Via Sanabres out of Ourense. Used Grace the Pilgrim's but ultimately relied on angel Aurelio Simones for his guidance. It was very much worth it. Looking forward to next year!
 
Camino(s) past & future
Ingles & part of Norte (2012), Camino Frances (2015), Camino Portuguese Interior (2017)
#51
It’s been a while since someone mentioned this train ride and I just wanted to echo Donovan's recommendation here. This ride goes right along the river to the hamlet of Pocinho. After the town of Pinhao, the road disappears and you ride through a part of the valley that is inaccessible to cars because of all the rocks and steep hills. Amazing views, it’s really something.

I know that some peregrinos don’t like to mix touring with their Caminos, but if you do, this is not to be missed.

Cheap tickets, little chug chug train. When you get to Pocinho, there are two cafes for the half hour rest stop for the driver. And then you pile back on the train and head back to Regua.

Donovan, do you remember how long it took? Maybe 2 hours total?

Yes, I took that train too, but don't think the whole trip is necessary. Yes, about 2 hours. I would just recommend an hour and then back.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Ingles & part of Norte (2012), Camino Frances (2015), Camino Portuguese Interior (2017)
#52
Though I am not going to be able to walk this Camino in 2018, it is very high on my camino wish list. But for me the difficult decision comes in trying to decide between the Caminho Portugues Interior from Viseu to Chaves and on to the Sanabres at Lalin and this one.

I think that @alansykes may have a plan to combine the two, so I will just sit tight and see where he winds up, but I'm wondering if any of those who have walked it have any thoughts. The two do intersect at Lamego/Mesao Frio or somewhere near there.

Leaving the Torres at Lamego would mean missing Amarante, Guimaraes and Braga, all of which are really nice places. But the Torres does have the downside (at least for people wanting to avoid crowds) that it merges with the Camino Portugues at Ponte de Lima, and from there northward is likely to be crowded.
On the CPI I got to Lamego during the "Our Lady of the Milk" festival. It was quite beautiful. The CPI late August-Sept at harvest season was absolutely gorgeous, especially the first 8 days through the Duoro. Lonely, (the only person on the trail and in alburges when there were those) and breathtaking (literally). The vineyards thick with grapes and one of the families said they had to harvest two weeks earlier than usual due to global warming. The walk from Chaves to Ourense was less thrilling and once in Spain, the camino normalizes. I want to walk the Camino Torres but don't like to think of the torrent of folks on the "Central".
 
#53
Yes, I took that train too, but don't think the whole trip is necessary. Yes, about 2 hours. I would just recommend an hour and then back.
I agree that it is a little long. I have always started in Pinhao rather than Régua, which cuts 30 km off the front end (I think it’s about a 70 km round trip). It’s from Pinhao to Pocinho where the views get really great, so if you can find a way to get to Pinhao to start the ride, you will be able to savor the very best!
 
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