Jessalk
New Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- CF en of April 2015
I've just returned home, and thought I'd share my experience. Of course, it's so different for everyone, but I thought I'd add my perspective. First to say, it was such an incredible experience! It was more than I could have hoped for, and nothing like I'd expected. It was so much better.
So, based on information I was seeking before I left, here's how it all worked out:
I hiked late April, to late May. Starting in St. Jean.
In terms of preparation for this, I was physically fit, I generally did 5 days of high intensity cardio/week. I've done a lot of hiking in my past, but primarily shorter, high altitude treks with porters. Or day trips. Had never carried my own bag. And I certainly was not in trekking shape. I suppose it's worth noting I'm in my late twenties. I did one long hike per week (20-30km), and then 5-10km per day during the week (my normal commuting distances). For maybe 6 weeks, and then nothing aside from short walks two weeks before. Mostly all flat surfaces. I intended to hike with a pack, but never got around to it. I could have prepped more, but found I was still ahead of the curve and only mild to moderate aches and pains the whole time, no injuries. But a lot of ibuprofen! Most people I met did no prep at all. They made it, but generally with more pain/harder adjustment the first few weeks.
Most of my pain was in the first ten days, and then on the few long days (40km+). But after that initial time period (10 days) of shorter days (20-25km) my body adapted and 30km became comfortable, with anything over 40km being a push. I took two extended rests, one for 3 days to go to Madrid, and then two in Leon.
I thought the first day out of St. Jean was a challenge, but not terrible. I did it in 6.5 hours, taking the steeper woods route down (not bad in dry conditions, but could see how rain would make it rough). In fact, scenery wise it was probably my favorite day! Most of the people I hiked with agreed it wasn't as bad as they'd heard. Some people also found the opposite and suffered injuries. We had OK weather, no rain, it was even hot in the beginning. But very strong winds did knock a few people over for the second half on the road route down. Because of the strength of the wind it was difficult to take breaks, which may have contributed to the quicker pace.
My 50L pack ended up being 7.5kg without food or water, but I almost never carried food (aside from chocolate with almonds!). I was over the 10% rule, but it was fine. No real problems and stopped feeling it after a few weeks. My pack was bigger, but it was light and fit me perfectly. My sleeping bag was the worst, 1.2kg and totally unnecessary, though a sleep-sheet would have been inadequate, a very light sleeping bag would have been perfect. I just didn't want to spend the money, but would next time.
I had waterproof rain jacket that functioned as a daily jacket-which I wore maybe 70% of the time, as it was chilly in the mornings, and rain pants (which I wore also while doing laundry, which I never did myself but shared machines every 2-3 days). I was very happy with my rain gear for the (only!) two days of rain. I used both a water bladder (filled with 1.5L, and found it invaluable as a solo hiker) and a water bottle for easy tap fills. I also used Nuun tablets for electrolytes (and it tastes great), no idea if they helped, but didn't have muscle cramps.
I ate the pilgrims menu three times. Which was two times too many. But overall the food wasn't as awful as I imagined it would be. I ate a lot of eggs.
I budgeted €30/day and had no problem sticking to that.
I didn't use hiking poles. I in no way regret that decision, but can see why for the occasional times they're useful why one might want them. But I never felt like I needed them.
I didn't hear or see any of any bedbugs. Or aggressive dogs. Some bikers did get stuck in a herd of cows, a few getting knocked off their bikes. That is the only animal run in I heard of. But really, so many cows.
I had zero problems finding accommodations, and always got my first choice (usually, private albergues, with occasional hotels). Only once got one of the last beds (in that albergue, certainly not in town). I also never hiked before sunrise, generally starting at 8am, and finishing around 2-3pm (unless a long day, then finished at 5pm). I suspect, that is because it was April/May and often the trail traffic felt decently light. But even in the last 100km none of the places I stayed I had any trouble, in fact, most never filled up. I stayed both in main stages, and in between (which were decidedly quieter). I didn't have any really bad albergue experiences. Yes, the snoring. But my silicone earplugs served me well. As did ambien on occasion.
Blisters: None. I had broken in boots (Salomon Mid GTX, yes gortex) and wore silk liners under wool socks. I changed them midway on longer or hotter days, but generally didn't. No other preventative measures. I'm sure the cool weather greatly aided me as well! But also, I generally don't get blisters in my regular athletic pursuits.
Solo hiking was fine, I instantly met people and hiked often with others (but also often alone when I felt like changing pace). And developed a core "camino family" from day one. I found it near impossible to hike completely alone for a whole day, which was fine, I didn't mind either way. And really, the people I met on the trail were absolutely the highlight of this entire trip. The people on this trail are simply some of the best people I've ever had the pleasure of meeting.
The only thing I would report as negative would be the sheer amount of concrete walking. I knew there would be some, but was shocked by how much road-side hiking there was, and really, disliked that bit. But it wasn't so bad that I wouldn't consider doing it again.
I recognize that I was lucky in many respects, in terms of how my body adapted, the weather, the ease of finding accommodation. But I think it's worth noting that things can indeed work out relatively easily. Going in April was a great decision. Cool, ideal hiking weather, less busy trail, stunning spring scenery.
I actually had to step away from reading forums because I almost scared myself out of doing it, reading all the things that could go wrong, all the possible ways to prep or what to bring. Of course, in the end it all worked out! And it was a fabulous experience! Not without it's hard days, or lows, of course. But greatly outnumbered by good days. I don't know that I'd do this again, but only because there are so many trails in the world to explore. BUT it was hands-down one of the best travel experiences I've ever had!
So, for what it's worth. That was my experience!
So, based on information I was seeking before I left, here's how it all worked out:
I hiked late April, to late May. Starting in St. Jean.
In terms of preparation for this, I was physically fit, I generally did 5 days of high intensity cardio/week. I've done a lot of hiking in my past, but primarily shorter, high altitude treks with porters. Or day trips. Had never carried my own bag. And I certainly was not in trekking shape. I suppose it's worth noting I'm in my late twenties. I did one long hike per week (20-30km), and then 5-10km per day during the week (my normal commuting distances). For maybe 6 weeks, and then nothing aside from short walks two weeks before. Mostly all flat surfaces. I intended to hike with a pack, but never got around to it. I could have prepped more, but found I was still ahead of the curve and only mild to moderate aches and pains the whole time, no injuries. But a lot of ibuprofen! Most people I met did no prep at all. They made it, but generally with more pain/harder adjustment the first few weeks.
Most of my pain was in the first ten days, and then on the few long days (40km+). But after that initial time period (10 days) of shorter days (20-25km) my body adapted and 30km became comfortable, with anything over 40km being a push. I took two extended rests, one for 3 days to go to Madrid, and then two in Leon.
I thought the first day out of St. Jean was a challenge, but not terrible. I did it in 6.5 hours, taking the steeper woods route down (not bad in dry conditions, but could see how rain would make it rough). In fact, scenery wise it was probably my favorite day! Most of the people I hiked with agreed it wasn't as bad as they'd heard. Some people also found the opposite and suffered injuries. We had OK weather, no rain, it was even hot in the beginning. But very strong winds did knock a few people over for the second half on the road route down. Because of the strength of the wind it was difficult to take breaks, which may have contributed to the quicker pace.
My 50L pack ended up being 7.5kg without food or water, but I almost never carried food (aside from chocolate with almonds!). I was over the 10% rule, but it was fine. No real problems and stopped feeling it after a few weeks. My pack was bigger, but it was light and fit me perfectly. My sleeping bag was the worst, 1.2kg and totally unnecessary, though a sleep-sheet would have been inadequate, a very light sleeping bag would have been perfect. I just didn't want to spend the money, but would next time.
I had waterproof rain jacket that functioned as a daily jacket-which I wore maybe 70% of the time, as it was chilly in the mornings, and rain pants (which I wore also while doing laundry, which I never did myself but shared machines every 2-3 days). I was very happy with my rain gear for the (only!) two days of rain. I used both a water bladder (filled with 1.5L, and found it invaluable as a solo hiker) and a water bottle for easy tap fills. I also used Nuun tablets for electrolytes (and it tastes great), no idea if they helped, but didn't have muscle cramps.
I ate the pilgrims menu three times. Which was two times too many. But overall the food wasn't as awful as I imagined it would be. I ate a lot of eggs.
I budgeted €30/day and had no problem sticking to that.
I didn't use hiking poles. I in no way regret that decision, but can see why for the occasional times they're useful why one might want them. But I never felt like I needed them.
I didn't hear or see any of any bedbugs. Or aggressive dogs. Some bikers did get stuck in a herd of cows, a few getting knocked off their bikes. That is the only animal run in I heard of. But really, so many cows.
I had zero problems finding accommodations, and always got my first choice (usually, private albergues, with occasional hotels). Only once got one of the last beds (in that albergue, certainly not in town). I also never hiked before sunrise, generally starting at 8am, and finishing around 2-3pm (unless a long day, then finished at 5pm). I suspect, that is because it was April/May and often the trail traffic felt decently light. But even in the last 100km none of the places I stayed I had any trouble, in fact, most never filled up. I stayed both in main stages, and in between (which were decidedly quieter). I didn't have any really bad albergue experiences. Yes, the snoring. But my silicone earplugs served me well. As did ambien on occasion.
Blisters: None. I had broken in boots (Salomon Mid GTX, yes gortex) and wore silk liners under wool socks. I changed them midway on longer or hotter days, but generally didn't. No other preventative measures. I'm sure the cool weather greatly aided me as well! But also, I generally don't get blisters in my regular athletic pursuits.
Solo hiking was fine, I instantly met people and hiked often with others (but also often alone when I felt like changing pace). And developed a core "camino family" from day one. I found it near impossible to hike completely alone for a whole day, which was fine, I didn't mind either way. And really, the people I met on the trail were absolutely the highlight of this entire trip. The people on this trail are simply some of the best people I've ever had the pleasure of meeting.
The only thing I would report as negative would be the sheer amount of concrete walking. I knew there would be some, but was shocked by how much road-side hiking there was, and really, disliked that bit. But it wasn't so bad that I wouldn't consider doing it again.
I recognize that I was lucky in many respects, in terms of how my body adapted, the weather, the ease of finding accommodation. But I think it's worth noting that things can indeed work out relatively easily. Going in April was a great decision. Cool, ideal hiking weather, less busy trail, stunning spring scenery.
I actually had to step away from reading forums because I almost scared myself out of doing it, reading all the things that could go wrong, all the possible ways to prep or what to bring. Of course, in the end it all worked out! And it was a fabulous experience! Not without it's hard days, or lows, of course. But greatly outnumbered by good days. I don't know that I'd do this again, but only because there are so many trails in the world to explore. BUT it was hands-down one of the best travel experiences I've ever had!
So, for what it's worth. That was my experience!