Aragones August 1-15, 2014 -- Questions

[awan3]

Hi all,

Perhaps I am a bit crazy to do the Aragones at the beginning of August (2014), but that is what I am hoping for! Is anyone else walking it at this time?

I will be visiting Lourdes at the very end of July and was hoping to do part of the camino before heading to Barcelona around Aug. 16th.

This will be my first camino and I feel that I am very poorly organized/prepared. If you would be able to help with some of my many questions, I would be greatly appreciative!

1. August 1-16 will be hot -- how much water would you recommend to pack between stops?
2. (a) On average, how many hours are between villages (where I could restock on water/food)?
(b) How long would it take to walk from Lourdes to Pamplona?
3. I was thinking to order the CSJ guide (Toulouse to Puente la Reina). Will this suffice or are there other books you would recommend?
4. My greatest concern is getting lost -- how well marked is the route? In case of emergency, would I be in big trouble?
5. Would a 35L pack be large enough for the trek?
6. Do I need to book accommodation ahead of time?
7. How good a command of spanish should I have -- are there english-speakers on route?
8. Did you take a cell phone with you and purchase a sim card in France/Spain?
9. I am planning to take a train from Pamplona (or other city?) to Barcelona -- unless you have other ideas about how to get to Barcelona by Aug. 16th?
10. I keep on seeing references to registering oneself on the camino -- is this necessary before i start? if so, where would I do this?

Thank you for your help! I'm sure I have many other questions but these are the ones coming to mind right now. Thanks!

 

[econodan]

Hi,

Welcome to the forum. Walking along the Camino de Santiago is a wonderful experience. We walked the Camino Aragones in May 2012 starting from Jaca, and can share some experiences based on that. You may also want to browse through other postings on this section of the forum, and the blogs for this camino (including mine), to learn more.

In general there are not tremendous distances between villages. I never carried more than 2 liters of water, and didn't have any troubles with that. We had a mix of weather: some days quite hot, others quite cool, some light rain. You should definitely bring any guide books you can find, and read a bit ahead of time so that you know what to be watching out for. Check out the Confraternity of St James for starters. The route is well-enough marked, but you must always be mindful on the camino to not miss markers or turns. We were never lost, but we did occasionally walk for quite a distance between markers and not sure we were on the right path. Here's one place where knowing a little Spanish is useful. We found people all along the camino to be very friendly and helpful to pilgrims.

A 35 L pack should be ok. If you search on the forum, you'll see extensive discussions of what to bring (and what to leave behind). No need to book accommodations ahead; we never had any trouble with finding a bed except on the heavily-traveled Camino Frances. Most of the villages along the Aragones are small, and most don't have accommodations, so a guidebook is important in determining where you can stop. Similarly, some don't have stores or restaurants so you may need to carry a little food some days.

Some basic conversational Spanish is useful on any camino in Spain. We did meet other pilgrims who had only a few words. They could get by, but their experience was certainly more limited. I would imagine most of the people you meet along this path will not speak English. That said, it's not hard to pick up a little bit of Spanish (there are lots of free language training tools available online).

I did carry a cell phone with a Spanish SIM card. If you have an unlocked GSM phone a SIM card is very inexpensive and it might make you feel more secure.

To see typical climate patterns (rain and temps) by month, check out the excellent web site by Peter Robins here. On the menu, hover over Modern Routes, then look at the bottom of the list for the link to climate maps. You can select the month and then see average temps and rainfall amounts.

Sorry I don't know anything about bus or train transportation. But there are lots of other discussions of this elsewhere on the forum. Because Pamplona is on the Camino Frances, you'll find ample info.

Yes, you do need to register as a pilgrim and pick up a credential to stay in most pilgrim albergues. This is possible in many locations in Spain or ahead of time. Again, lots about this elsewhere on the forum.

Many of your questions apply to any camino, so I'd recommend you spend some time browsing around on this forum. There is a wealth of experience and knowledge here.

Buen camino.

Dan

 

[annakappa]

I walked the Aragonés in 2012, but in the autumn. However some days were still very hot. The accommodation was adequate all along the route, but, I have a suspicion that there might be many cyclists on the route at the beginning if August.
Most of our research, for any route, is done by searching on Internet. Three sites I recommend is mundicamino.com, info@caminoguide.net and the eroski site www.consumer.es, the latter bring only in Spanish. I don't remember meeting any English speaking Pilgrims, but then, we speak first of all in Spanish to anyone and only after, if we find communication difficult with a Pilgrim, do we switch over to another language.
There is one very long zig zag climb through pine forests, but no actual shade on the road. At one stage, under a very hot sun, we were nearly without water, with no visible end in sight and added a sachet of electrolytes to our last bottle of water.
The aragonés is a beautiful route and a must, in my opinion is to make a diversion to visit S. Juan de la Peña, this beautiful Romanic monastery built into the side of a rock mountain side. I think it's probably the most interesting site that I have ever visited on all my Camino's. Anne

 

[sulu]

Hi awan3
re: returning to Barcelona; there are regular buses from Puente de la Reina to Pamplona, the bus times are in the albergue. There are also frequent, rapid trains from Pamplona to Barcelona, check the RENFE site. Be aware that August 15th is a Bank Holiday in Spain, or, at least, in much of it.
Train fares are much cheaper if booked in advance so if you are sure when you want the train it is as well to book the ticket, also it is possible for the train you want to be full, especially at peak times of the year, so booking in advance is advisable anyway.

 

[camino-david]

I walked the Aragones in Sept 2011, and it was very beautiful. Some days were hot and I needed every drop of the 2 litres of water I carried, and on one occasion had to ask a local farmer for a drink of his water. As a lightweight walker (I use a 22 litre backpack) I think 35 litre is more than adequate. I took a copy of the mundicamino guide and a copy of the CSJ guide, but found that the best info was a leaflet I found at the Tourist Information Centre in Jaca, which shows the villages where the albergues are located, the distances between, suggested stages and total distance. I used this more than anything else. Re transport getting there, it depends on where you start. I started at Oloron in France so flew from Paris to Pau and local train to Oloron. If you start at Somport or Jaca, it is best to arrive at Madrid or Barcelona airports, from where you can train to Zaragosa, and then bus to Jaca (and then bus to Somport). This sounds complicated, but can be easily done in a day. You can get a credential at Jaca Cathedral, tourist office in Jaca or albergues which will enable you to stay at the albergues. Generally the albergues are roughly 15 km apart. If you like to send me a personal message, with your email address I can send you a copy of the leaflet and a copy of an article I wrote.
I didn't book any accommodation. I didn't take a phone. I am far from fluent in Spanish but managed with a few basic expressions. Certainly there are fewer English speaking pilgrims, but 4 of us met and formed a group one from Canada, One from Germany, one from Bulgaria and myself from Australia. There were many French walkers. Marking is adequate but less than on the French Camino and we only got lost once, although we knew roughly where we were.
Arrival at Puenta la Reina was a rude and cultural shock due to the large numbers of walkers, as opposed the the Aragones where the albergues had 10 to 15 visitors per night.
Hope this helps.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

There is a train from Zaragoza to Canfranc Estacion through Jaca.

 

[awan3]

Hi Dan, thanks for all the info! Just wondering -- when you said that there were a few long distances between markers, how long? Did you ever run into forks in the road without a clear marker? Thanks!

 

[econodan]

Oh gosh, it's hard to remember the details....

I'm thinking it may have been a couple of km sometimes between markers. When you're unsure whether you're on the right path, it always seems longer than it really is. Carrying a guide and thinking ahead to be on the lookout for turns etc is helpful. I do remember getting messed up leaving Sanguesa. We wanted to take the route through Lumbier, but after walking a few km along the highway from Sanguesa the arrows stopped; we kept walking for a while more, but eventually gave up and walked back to take the route through Rocaforte. We also had a little confusion following the trail through the small village of Binacua on the way up to Santa Cruz de la Seros (the village near the Monasterio San Juan de la Pena, which is a must see). But we just asked someone in the village which was the correct path, and we were on our way.

I don't recall ever feeling seriously lost. Caveat: I spend a lot of time hiking in mountains (often where there are no trails), so I'm quite comfortable navigating with maps.

Buen camino.

Dan

 

[awan3]

I walked the Aragonés in 2012, but in the autumn. However some days were still very hot. The accommodation was adequate all along the route, but, I have a suspicion that there might be many cyclists on the route at the beginning if August.
Most of our research, for any route, is done by searching on Internet. Three sites I recommend is mundicamino.com, info@caminoguide.net and the eroski site www.consumer.es, the latter bring only in Spanish. I don't remember meeting any English speaking Pilgrims, but then, we speak first of all in Spanish to anyone and only after, if we find communication difficult with a Pilgrim, do we switch over to another language.
There is one very long zig zag climb through pine forests, but no actual shade on the road. At one stage, under a very hot sun, we were nearly without water, with no visible end in sight and added a sachet of electrolytes to our last bottle of water.
The aragonés is a beautiful route and a must, in my opinion is to make a diversion to visit S. Juan de la Peña, this beautiful Romanic monastery built into the side of a rock mountain side. I think it's probably the most interesting site that I have ever visited on all my Camino's. Anne

Thanks for the info Anne! And for the note about San Juan de le Pena!

 

[awan3]

Oh gosh, it's hard to remember the details....

I'm thinking it may have been a couple of km sometimes between markers. When you're unsure whether you're on the right path, it always seems longer than it really is. Carrying a guide and thinking ahead to be on the lookout for turns etc is helpful. I do remember getting messed up leaving Sanguesa. We wanted to take the route through Lumbier, but after walking a few km along the highway from Sanguesa the arrows stopped; we kept walking for a while more, but eventually gave up and walked back to take the route through Rocaforte. We also had a little confusion following the trail through the small village of Binacua on the way up to Santa Cruz de la Seros (the village near the Monasterio San Juan de la Pena, which is a must see). But we just asked someone in the village which was the correct path, and we were on our way.

I don't recall ever feeling seriously lost. Caveat: I spend a lot of time hiking in mountains (often where there are no trails), so I'm quite comfortable navigating with maps.

Buen camino.

Dan

Thanks again Dan -- yes I am a little apprehensive myself, as I have actually never gone on a hike alone before...is my going it alone without any experience a death wish?

 

[awan3]

Hi awan3
re: returning to Barcelona; there are regular buses from Puente de la Reina to Pamplona, the bus times are in the albergue. There are also frequent, rapid trains from Pamplona to Barcelona, check the RENFE site. Be aware that August 15th is a Bank Holiday in Spain, or, at least, in much of it.
Train fares are much cheaper if booked in advance so if you are sure when you want the train it is as well to book the ticket, also it is possible for the train you want to be full, especially at peak times of the year, so booking in advance is advisable anyway.

Thank you for the note about the Bank Holiday!!!!

 

[sulu]

I think the recommended route to San Juan de la Pena has changed recently. I walked in April this year, coming from the Catalan, so my route required me to walk via San Juan. I walked to Santa Cilia but then went to Jaca and walked back. All the info I had about the turn off for San Juan made no sense at all. The signs, for the walk up, were much later than I expected to see them and involved walking via Atares. The walk down would then be via Santa Cruz de la Seros and Binacua. This makes for a long day, by my ideas anyway, as there is a steep up and a steep down. There is accommodation in Santa Cruz but this may be full in August. Checking out the Tourist Information office in Jaca is probably a good idea. I agree with the other posters that San Juan de la Pena is worth the effort. Of course, by the time you have crossed the Pyrenees the walk to San Juan may be a walk in the park.
Looking back I don't think anyone has addressed the issue of 'registering' in Lourdes. I've walked from Toulouse, not from Lourdes but I did look into getting a crerdencial in Lourdes. I think the place to do it is in an office near the grotto, there is info here in another thread. Try the Piedmont route. Sorry, this idea has just come to me and I haven't looked back, but yes, you do need a pilgrim passport or credencial.

 

[camino07]

We had no trouble with waymarks coming from Somport in 2013 and the CSJ guide book was excellent. We walked the Foz de Lumbier and again followed the guidebook via Leidena there is a large transport cafe with delicious breakfasts and we got directions from there to the path. Not sure if I would have done it on my own though and August will be so hot. We loved the Aragones in early May.
We were too exhausted to visit San Juan unfortunately. I remember we had a little confusion after Tiebas but I read from the book as we walked along and found an arrow.
Carry plenty of food and water .
Buen Camino
Heather

 

[annakappa]

We took the local bus leaving Jaca, I think at 9.30 am up to S. Juan de la Peña. The journey took about half an hour. From the Monastery, we started our Camino, first by talking this tricky, but lovely trail down to Sta Cruz de la Seros. Anne

 

[awan3]

We had no trouble with waymarks coming from Somport in 2013 and the CSJ guide book was excellent. We walked the Foz de Lumbier and again followed the guidebook via Leidena there is a large transport cafe with delicious breakfasts and we got directions from there to the path. Not sure if I would have done it on my own though and August will be so hot. We loved the Aragones in early May.
We were too exhausted to visit San Juan unfortunately. I remember we had a little confusion after Tiebas but I read from the book as we walked along and found an arrow.
Carry plenty of food and water .
Buen Camino
Heather

Thanks Heather! Can I ask why you were not sure that you would have done it alone? Thanks!

 

[camino07]

Thanks Heather! Can I ask why you were not sure that you would have done it alone? Thanks!

Well! I was all set to start on my own when a previous Camino Amiga said said she would walk it with me. That first evening tip toeing through a snow bank was scarey and her strong company gave me courage.There were a few long days where I would have to walk alone but with friendly Albergues at the end. Actually you will be perfectly fine on your own. As I get older I like a bit of company on unfamiliar Caminos.

 

[econodan]

Thanks again Dan -- yes I am a little apprehensive myself, as I have actually never gone on a hike alone before...is my going it alone without any experience a death wish?

For us, none of this comes remotely close to a death wish. All is doable, and you're never too far from a village (or at least a farm). But it really depends on your personal comfort level with finding your way and being alone for longish periods; no one can assess this except you.

A few others have written about the detour up to San Juan de la Pena. It would be a very long day to walk up there from Santa Cilia, enjoy the monastery, and walk back. We split it up by spending the night in a lovely little hostal in Santa Cruz de la Seros (which is a delightful and touristy town in its own right).

Buen camino.

Dan