Are there sections of the Camino that involve very narrow paths or switchbacks?

[subitoo]

I am 67 years old and have spent the last three months preparing for something called "The Ultimate Hike"--a 30.1 mile hike in one day to raise funding and awareness for children's cancer research. I trained doing lots and lots of walking, climbing stairs, and strength training. We began hiking on Saturday at 3:30 AM in pouring rain and darkness. The path turned to slimy muddy muck. It involved endless switchbacks, hiking over narrow narrow paths with deep ravines. I was only able to walk 22.5 miles before we were pulled off the track before dark. I have discovered that although I can climb easily enough (my Fitbit said I climbed the equivalent of 426 FLIGHTS of stairs on Saturday) the descents were way above my pay grade. I have a lazy eye and have no depth vision so have a very hard time discerning space and distance. Even with hiking poles I was TERRIFIED of falling off cliffs for most of the hike. Bottom line. I think I would have no trouble with walking the distances as I was routinely walking 12-15 miles a day in training. I had hoped to keep up the training and start the French camino in the Spring. But I do not think I could face another narrow descent on a switchback. I know I will have to climb over several passes...but how treacherous are they? Would really appreciate an honest answer from someone who might be similarly challenged. ( I had been assured when I signed up for this hike that this one was not going to be challenging in that respect. My oh my they were wrong!) El Camino is the last official thing on my "bucket list". I have wanted to do it since I first read about it at the age of 7 in my big brother's 4th grade Reading Book! thanks.

 

[dougfitz]

Clearly there will be more demanding sections of any long walk that will be more difficult to negotiate. It would not make sense to claim that there won't be challenges, but none of them appear as demanding as this 'Ultimate Hike' activity. Some descents that I can think of requiring particular care are:

• coming into Roncesvalles
  
• the descent into Zubiri
• the track coming off the Alto del Perdon (the approach to the ridgeline is also a little challenging)
  
• just before Molinaseca

I am sure others can add to this list. For example, I walked Route Valcarlos, so cannot comment about what Route Napoleon might be like, other than I have never seen it described as being as demanding as your recent walk. I also came off the ridge the wrong way shortly after Fronfria, and made my way into Triacastela on one of the GR tracks, so I cannot comment on that descent.

What I can say is that none of the CF presents the danger of falling off a cliff provided you have not wandered off the marked route. All of the sections I have listed require some additional care, particularly in the wet. Remember that the CF is walked by 10s of 1000s of pilgrims of all ages and levels of skill. You will need to be more careful in some places, but that shouldn't deter you from walking it.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Honestly, I can't think of many places that I would consider narrow switchback areas.
Coming into Roncesvalles is very steep, but not switchbacks.
You can get around this by taking the road - and it's a lovely walk as well.
The descent into Zubiri is a little steep, but no cliff or switchbacks.
The track coming off Alto del Perdon is steep and rocky, but not switchbacks.
And yes, coming into Molinaseca is steep.

The two most steep and/or difficult, in my opinion, are coming down off Alto del Perdon and into Molinaseca.
Let me see if I can find some photos for you...

Remember, you always have the option to bus or taxi any of these stages, or even partial stages. There are (literally) often taxis sitting at the top of Perdon, waiting for customers, and in my mind these don't qualify as "cliffs" or "switchbacks."

 

[Anniesantiago]

Rats! I thought I answered this but now I can't find it.
I don't know of any place on the Camino Frances that has cliffs and switchbacks.
The parts Doug mentions above are the steepest and toughest, but they're not "cliffs" and they're not "switchbacks."

I tried, but failed to post photos of the steep, loose rock trail coming off Alto Perdon.
You must pay attention and not twist your ankle.
But it's not really scary (to me anyway)
Besides, if you look at it and decide you don't want to walk, there are almost always taxis sitting there waiting to take you down.

I didn't think the descent into Zubiri was bad at all.

Coming into Molinaseca can be treacherous if it's raining or windy.
Otherwise, just go slow and you'll be fine.
No cliffs. No switchbacks.

Same with coming into Roncesvalles.
Here, you can choose to walk the road at the point of descent.

Remember, you always have the option of bussing or taking a taxi on these few, short stretches.
Don't let this frighten you.
You'll be fine!

 

[Kitsambler]

The route in France should not pose any insurmountable challenges for you either, of the sort you are trying to avoid. There is a steep descent into, and a steep climb out of, Monistrol d'Allier -- but they are not that steep. Also the descent into, and climb out from, Conques are memorably steep, but not mountain-like. It appears the French do not believe in switchbacks; they simply follow the Roman custom of building roads in surveyor-straight lines. This includes going straight up, and straight down, some hills where you might have preferred switchbacks. Some sections of the Le Puy route do indeed follow actual Roman roadbeds.

The route in Germany is relatively broad, gently graded, and well maintained. The Czech paths are an entirely different story, and bear more resemblance to your Ultimate experience.

 

[Thengel1]

The term hike is sometimes used in relation to the camino Frances, but walk is really the more accurate term. The kind of situation you describe, descents with a steep drop off to one side, simply don't exist on the camino Frances. The closest I recall is a short section between Valcarlos and Roncesvalles, but that was a) uphill and b) not that bad. I have no doubt whatsoever you will be fine.

For amusement purposes, I have attached a couple of photos from a hike I did in the Italian Dolomites in 2012. I am told there is much worse than these to be found, but that path was quite scary enough for me.

 

[lukedarracott]

The descent to Ponferrada via Acebo is a little steep at times too. Take care if it's wet!

 

[SYates]

... But I do not think I could face another narrow descent on a switchback. I know I will have to climb over several passes...but how treacherous are they? ...

I have a suggestion for you: Go to Google Earth and check the places the others have mentioned and see if you find the treacherous ;-) There are some steepish descends, but in my opinion and experience they just hurt the knees but don't qualify as particularly dangerous and no, no cliffs to fall off if you stay on the marked path and don't get lost (fog, snow in the Pyrenees > take the Valcarlos route).
To put things in perspective and give you some encouragement: I have seen blind people (with seeing-eye dog and human companion) doing this pilgrimage on foot.
Buen Camino!, SY

 

[SYates]

Forgot to add: If you don't speak Spanish, get somebody to translate into Spanish your 'lazy eye condition' and make yourself a laminated card to show to the hospitaleros. If you can't judge distances well a top bunk bed is not what you want ;-) Showing a card to the hospitaleros that tells them that you have a medical condition will help to get a lower bunk bed, SY

 

[nellpilgrim]

The descent to Ponferrada via Acebo is a little steep at times too. Take care if it's wet!

That would be the same one as descent into Molinaseca (which is the town after Acebo and before Ponferrada) and God bless anyone that had the energy to walk onto Ponferrada after that descent-respect! Walking poles are a great help with all of the above.
If walking onto Fisterra then another steep-but no switchbacks- descent is the one down to Cee.

 

[Kathy F.]

Subitoo, don't be afraid. The advice from DougF and AnnisS are spot on. Those were the challenging places that I remember (fondly??). Anyway, use your hiking poles, start out slowly and carefully. Don't let the people behind you or your "Camino Family" make you move faster than you feel comfortable. The simplest, easiest looking senda on the Camino can have a loose rock or a slick patch of mud that can suddenly challenge you, not to mention the vehicle traffic you will encounter. I remember one early morning school bus, in the middle of nowhere, which took me by surprise!!
You sound physically and mentally prepared for the Camino. Twelve to fifteen kilometers, not miles, a day will give you a very comfortable Camino, and I'm sure you will increase your mileage after the first few days.

 

[obinjatoo@yahoo.com]

Not as burly as all that but some sections get a little tricky. My suggestion would be to walk less every day. Give yourself lots of time and limit it to 20 - 25 K a day. There are hostels all over the place on the French Route and one is NOT relegated to Brierly's book. In fact, don't bother with it at all. People seemed to get locked into the guide book and forget to have a journey. No need to hustle. In fact I'd even suggest buying a one way ticket to Spain. Buy the return a week before you leave.

 

[scikowski]

As a person who also has no depth perception, I agree that there are few places to fear, and no drop offs that I can remember. I am a terrible downhill hiker but have been saved by using two poles. They have saved my sanity and I would highly recommend that you use them if you don't already. Even if you only use them on the bothersome downhill sections, they are definitely worth the weight.

 

[whariwharangi]

It would help to know the conditions on your trail. I found the link for ultimate hike and found there are several locations for the event.

Ultimate Hike
http://www.kintera.org/htmlcontent.asp?cid=107945

No there are not narrow descents on switchbacks. There are some sections that are somewhat steep but there is no hand and foot scrambling or risk of tumbling off the side of a mountain. Surfaces are almost all 'improved' or 'hardened'; there is very little that can turn to slimy muddy muck. A good 4 wheel drive vehicle could be used to drive over most of the camino.

I hike a lot on challenging mountainous trails ... which is what I gather you were on. The camino is challenging only because of the day-after-day distances involved.

 

[subitoo]

Thanks to ALL of you for your input. I am a BIG believer in hiking poles...would not have survived that ultimate hike without 'em. I feel MOST reassured!

 

[MendiWalker]

Lazy Eye in Spanish is "Ojo Vago".

Buen Camino!

 

[Susan04046]

Hello to a fellow 67 year old woman. Just finished the descent into Molinaseca today on the road as the Camino was river. The hardest part for me is the rocks. On the descent from Alto de Perdon thought there must be a rock for each of my sins before realizing there were far too many rocks.

 

[dougfitz]

Hello to a fellow 67 year old woman. Just finished the descent into Molinaseca today on the road as the Camino was river. The hardest part for me is the rocks. On the descent from Alto de Perdon thought there must be a rock for each of my sins before realizing there were far too many rocks.

Had I been inclined to that train of thought, there might have been too few!!

 

[santiago_67]

The descent to Ponferrada via Acebo is a little steep at times too. Take care if it's wet!

I found the descent into El Acebo never ending and very difficult. Molinaseca was a most difficult path for me too. This 67 year old could not have navigated these without my trekking poles.

 

[MickMac]

Alto de Perdón is the worst descent underfoot, as well as descent into Roncesvalles take it slow and careful you will get there.

 

[tpmchugh]

The path down to Acebo is steep rough and treacherous. I met one lady who had fallen on it and her face was black and blue and she had broken her nose. From Acebo down to Molinaseca is almost as bad. Take it easy and you will be fine, don't try to do it like the superagrinos who think they can run down a hill, which is bad enough but when its this steep its just plain foolhardy. The path down to Portomarin is not quite as steep but very rocky and rough. If unfortunate enough to be there when it rains heavy, then the path becomes a river and very difficult to negotiate. The key word is 'slow' or as an old Spaniard advised me 'poco poco'. Take it easy and you will be fine.

 

[jmcarp]

Actually, much of the Camino (at least the Frances) runs parallel and either beside or a few hundred meters from the natural pathway. Good examples are the alternate road down into Roncesvalles from the Col de Loepedor or from Vilacha down into Portomarin. One can always follow the road if the path looks too rough for one's taste or if heavy rains turn the natural path into a quagmire. A note of caution, however -- if you decide to walk along the highway, either as the official trail does in places or as an alternate, always walk on the left side of the road and walk in single file. Also, if it's before dawn or after dark, wear something reflective, such as a safety vest or a few strips of reflective tape on your backpack.

Jim