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LIVE from the Camino Arrived in Leon this afternoon

Marbe2

Active member
Time of past OR future Camino
2015-2023 walked all or part of CF 11 times
(Live in Leon)

Like @trecile, I had my knife confiscated by the luggage screeners as I went thru security at Chamartin Train station on my way to Leon. This self-same paring knife with cover has been on many trains in spain, for at least the last 5 years! So be advised they are on the lookout for them now. What has changed? Rules or enforcement….

If you are wondering about mask requirements on planes from the USA (which dropped mask requirements) United Airlines stated all passengers are required to wear masks to Spain since Spain requires them, and that the destination country determines if masks should be worn on planes?

There were, however, lots of people around us not wearing the masks properly, often noses showing, a couple of people sounded very congested coughing through loose blue masks and sending germs everywhere. Some things that passengers were doing defies good health practice without COVID ! The Plane was packed including a group of Spanish teenagers returning from an Easter school trip to USA. IMO the only way to protect yourself is to use a really good mask like an N95 AND a shield or eye Protection. The concern is not, at this point, getting critically ill, but sick enough to cause trip interruption, delay, quarantine, etc.

So we arrived on time! UA51 is notoriously late. Thus when we arrived at 9am without a wink of sleep, and our train not leaving till 2:40pm, we decided to treat ourselves to a 50 Euro dayroom near Charmartin! It was well worth it we took those delightful after flight showers. Then zonked out for about two hours, got a snack and went right to train checkin. Terrific option when you need to kill 4 or more hours and don’t feel like sightseeing.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Tommorw is May 1, and a weekend. If you didn’t have a reservation last night there were no rooms, albergues or privates available in either Rabanal del Camino,or Foncebadon. By 11am pilgrims wer talking about walking much further than they had planned on. There were only a few spots available in Molineseca last night as well. So be advised that finding a place tonight maybe difficult in this region.
 
Yerp? And of course, May Day holiday... hoping all wil go well for you on your camino.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Time has really gotten away from me, how is it possible that @Marbe2 is back on the camino?! Wishing you a wonderful walk, from a fall camino to a spring camino, it will be interesting to hear how things are different!

Hoping you can stay safe, and have a buen camino, Laurie
 
In case newer readers don’t know, the refugio in LaFaba burnt down! We arrived shortly after 8am in Lafaba, from Las Herrerias,and found Tito’s in La Faba, just opening. We had a fresh warm chocolate croissant, and 2 cups cafe con leche.
There were four Canadian girls who stayed there last night! It is located very close to the old burnt down refugio. Right before you get to former refugio, make a right hand turn on the road. Tito’s is 20 meters (at most) on the left side. They have an assortment of food. Can seat about 20 people inside and there is outdoor seating for about the same amount of people! We are sunning at Escuela right now before the last uphill to O’Cebreiro. .
 

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Yes, there was a thread about that.
Thank you for the update about Tito's!

Just to be clear. @Marbe means the place in the middle of the village on the left, not the albergue as you enter the village on the right.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I must have missed prior info re Tito’s. If you follow the path up, follow the camino signs. Right before you get to the destroyed refugio,take a RIGHT! Tito’s is on the left side of the road. Clear signage.
 
We were on the CF in September. The walk to Palas de Rei was lovely. I have always been grateful for those small paths with soft dirt and tiny stones on the left side of the road from around Ligonde to shortly before Hotel Calixitano. It is about - 5km long! It is toward the end of the long walk into Palas de Rei. Since Sept. workers have widened the walking path(great) but now made our soft walking path into a cement side walk….not ideal after a long Schlep.. I suppose the intent is to provide a clear separate space for walkers, and cars, Unfortunately many of us took to the road, as it was easier to walk on😀.
 

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Regarding post #1, I totally understand your frustration, but a knife is a knife as far as security rules are concerned.
My only security transgressions in 40+ years have been the confiscation of a precious and much beloved Laguiole corkscrew in BOD (where else would someone know the value of such a thing) then one of those metal rappel backpack clips attached to my carry-on at CDG, the guard proffered it could be used as a brass knuckle, and finally last week a tube of toothpaste larger than 3.4oz (mine was larger and maybe half full but exceeded the limit at JFK.) This tube of toothpaste had already passed through at least 4 other airports "undetected."
I get it because there are some bad guys out there, so let's be vigilant.
It is so easy when you are a frequent traveler to ignore the basic rules and regulations because of like, "What the hell it is just a tube of toothpaste, after all." I am probably the biggest rules violator as to not putting my toiletries a small plastic bag. Whatever!
The cane I now have to walk with got a treatment like it was a weapon of mass destruction at JFK. It is as Palo Avellano I bought in the Aubrac when my disability started.
 
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In case newer readers don’t know, the refugio in LaFaba burnt down! We arrived shortly after 8am in Lafaba, from Las Herrerias,and found Tito’s in La Faba, just opening. We had a fresh warm chocolate croissant, and 2 cups cafe con leche.
There were four Canadian girls who stayed there last night! It is located very close to the old burnt down refugio. Right before you get to former refugio, make a right hand turn on the road. Tito’s is 20 meters (at most) on the left side. They have an assortment of food. Can seat about 20 people inside and there is outdoor seating for about the same amount of people! We are sunning at Escuela right now before the last uphill to O’Cebreiro. .
You can see a photo of the burned out refugio on this thread.
 
Regarding post #1, I totally understand your frustration, but a knife is a knife as far as security rules are concerned.
My only security transgressions in 40+ years have been the confiscation of a precious and much beloved Laguiole corkscrew in BOD (where else would someone know the value of such a thing) then one of those metal rappel backpack clips attached to my carry-on at CDG, the guard proffered it could be used as a brass knuckle, and finally last week a tube of toothpaste larger than 3.4oz (mine was larger and maybe half full but exceeded the limit at JFK.) This tube of toothpaste had already passed through at least 4 other airports "undetected."
I get it because there are some bad guys out there, so let's be vigilant.
It is so easy when you are a frequent traveler to ignore the basic rules and regulations because of like, "What the hell it is just a tube of toothpaste, after all." I am probably the biggest rules violator as to not putting my toiletries a small plastic bag. Whatever!
The cane I now have to walk with got a treatment like it was a weapon of mass destruction at JFK. It is as Palo Avellano I bought in the Aubrac when my disability started.

I am not debating the need to follow the rules. No,I wouldn’t try to carry it on to a plane, but it passes the screening test for checked luggage and,I have carried this particular small paring knife through many European Counties and numerous times on this scheduled route. The screener-brought me to his booth and showed me the now allowed size which is more like a pen knife. Anyway, I was just raising awareness for other pilgrims who may too bring a small knife.
 
I am not debating the need to follow the rules. No,I wouldn’t try to carry it on to a plane, but it passes the screening test for checked luggage and,I have carried this particular small paring knife through many European Counties and numerous times on this scheduled route. The screener-brought me to his booth and showed me the now allowed size which is more like a pen knife. Anyway, I was just raising awareness for other pilgrims who may too bring a small knife.
Likewise, I was not debating your point it was my effort to raise awareness about corkscrews, rappelling gizmos and toothpaste. I can only imagine if it had been a tube of Voltaren Gel which is 3.53 oz., the restriction is for up to 3.4 oz. for anything in a tube.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
We are staying at a modest pension in Arzua tonight, moderate size twin bedroom for 50 euros. It is a basic Pension… but we always stay here. We like the gentleman that runs it. Always immaculate! It has a button for the shower which one needs to push every minute….but the shower is fine. Free bottled water and fruit. Good location. No aircon.

The exchange rate between the US dollar and Euro is almost even so those who operate in US dollars will currently find the rising costs of services offset to a large degree by the rise of the dollar!

I can’t believe how fortunate we have been with the weather and if the forecast is correct we will fly home from Madrid next Monday-the 16th of May with only one (non walking) rainy day in Leon! We had only two rainy walking days in September and I thought how lucky we were then! I guess I always harken back, in comparison, to one camino in which we walked 28 days in rain out of a 31 day month!

Yesterday we splurged! We stayed at RECTORAL DE BOENTE. https://rectoraldeboente.com/
It is a new (just opened) accommodation close to The German Albergue in Boente. What great rooms but upscale for some on a budget. Worth a treat! After our walk from Portomarin to Palas de rei, we were too tired to go from Palas de Rei to Arzua. So Boente is a good alternative past Melide…about 6km. The owner, Thomas, is of German heritage, but his wife, Immaculata, and her parents live locally. We also got to meet a friendly, playful and precious water dog ( yes I loved that dog) as well as their sweet trilingual 11yr. old daughter. The transformation of this old rectory is beautifully constructed. We stayed in room 5. It has air con for the summer months. Breakfast was included. They will provide supper if requested. It is right on the trail. Great hosts.

Todays walk to Arzua was short from Boente. But Azura is a must stop for us as our favorite restaurant on the Camino is in this town. We Look forward to eating there today. I am not(selfishly) posting the restaurant’s name because it really has limited seating.

Tomorrow we walk to A Rua…
 
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Marbe2,
Glad to read that all is going well. Perhaps tomorrow you will divulge what and where you eat tonight in Arzua.
Buen provecho!
We watch many a pilgrim come in but walk out when they realized thereis no pilgrim or Menu del dia… Everything is a la Carte…all meals. It is right on the way! Per your request…l
First course
1) Crispy Shrimp with Pink sauce. My sister Barbara said it’s the best she has ever had! Sauce underneath the shrimp was made with creme, egg whites mustard, sesame and a tad of ketchup for color. Terrific. The shrimp coating was a very thin like soft crust
2) Me …Freshly cooked Mussels in a Citrus Marinade and Fried Ginger…

Second course
Both Galician veal steak with veggies and restaurant cooked potato chips.

Third Course

4) Both Galician Cheese cake with rasberry sherbet

Water, bread, and 1 coke zero each

Cost 89 euros.
 

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Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Marbe2,
Thanks for your update.
Everything looks delicious; especially those mussels. May I ask the name of this spot?
I hope that you and your sister continue to have a good camino.
 
The plates are the giveaway... ;);) I must add it to my list for my next visit to Arzua.
 
Marbe2,
Thanks for your update.
Everything looks delicious; especially those mussels. May I ask the name of this spot?
I hope that you and your sister continue to have a good camino.
OK,@mspath, foy such a giving soul, I will post the restaurant. It is called

It has very limited Seating and is closed on Mondays. I love mussels…these were very good!
 
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This morning we leave for MAD by Train. The trains are full! Glad we obtained comfort seats early on. We took a Binax self-administered Antigen test in our room this morning. They were negative. It eased our minds…but the only one that really counts for us is at the airport, 3:15pm this afternoon!

We had to cancel our planned meal at O sendeiro due to delays at the pilgrim office on Friday. However, we ate a great afternoon meal, Saturday. The monk fish was superb! Best I’ve ever had! I had two small glasses of Godilla wine and my sister had a Pills. That was the extent of our alcohol consummation for 2022! !Total cost for the drinks, water, bread, clams in a pesto sauce, scallops, monkfish with potatoes, and deserts was €75.


I hope to sign off from this thread when we arrive home tomorrow! If you hear from me sooner, then there was a snag in the process!
 

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