Asphalt on Camino Primitivo

[Conor2015]

Hi,

Back in June and October of this year, I walked El Camino Del Norte from Irun to Villaviciosa. I found it very scenic and beautiful but decided to leave the trail on the second leg and join the Camino Primitivo instead. I did so simply because the asphalt started to wreck havoc on my feet most particularly the stretch from Bilbao onwards. I choose my Ecco footwear very carefully beforehand so it wasn't down to a wrong choice of boots. Being 100 kilos and 6ft 2 does have its drawbacks.

Could anyone who has completed the Camino Primitivo tell me whether there are long stretches of asphalt compared to the northern Camino? I walked from Villaviciosa to Oviedo, which isnt strictly the Primitivo. Even it had a good bit of asphalt but the surrounding countryside made the walk memorable.
I intend to walk the Primitivo in April 2016.

I will return at a later date to complete the last 300km of the northern Camino

Kind regards
Conor

 

[Anemone del Camino]

It is mostly asphalt, which in my book is better than walking on uneven tractor tracks.

 

[Conor2015]

Oh dear, that is not really what I really wanted to hear.

On the northern Camino there was more asphalt between Bilbao and Villaviacossa than on the entire Camino Frances based on my recollection.

 

[Kanga]

I'm thinking of the Camino del Madrid for next time because I believe it has virtually no road walking.

 

[TerryB]

Hi,

Back in June and October of this year, I walked El Camino Del Norte from Irun to Villaviciosa. I found it very scenic and beautiful but decided to leave the trail on the second leg and join the Camino Primitivo instead. I did so simply because the asphalt started to wreck havoc on my feet most particularly the stretch from Bilbao onwards. I choose my Ecco footwear very carefully beforehand so it wasn't down to a wrong choice of boots. Being 100 kilos and 6ft 2 does have its drawbacks.
Could anyone who has completed the Camino Primitivo tell me whether there are long stretches of asphalt compared to the northern Camino? I walked from Villaviciosa to Oviedo, which isnt strictly the Primitivo. Even it had a good bit of asphalt but the surrounding countryside made the walk memorable.
I intend to walk the Primitivo in April 2016.
I will return at a later date to complete the last 300km of the northern Camino

Kind regards
Conor

Having walked the Primitivo twice, I would say that less than half of it is asphalt. Often you can stay on the road rather than follow the sometimes wet and muddy tracks. If you go between June and October there is a good chance that the winter mud will have dried and you will be on tracks. Villaviciosa onwards, especially going into Oviedo is not typical Primitivo! Don't let it put you off walking what is my favourite Camino .

Blessings
Tio Tel

 

[Harington]

It is mostly asphalt, which in my book is better than walking on uneven tractor tracks.

That is not my memory of it (2012). After Escamplero until Lugo there seemed to be mainly tracks, paths, and...mountains, with only short stretches of asphalt.

 

[LauraK]

That is not my memory of it (2012). After Escamplero until Lugo there seemed to be mainly tracks, paths, and...mountains, with only short stretches of asphalt. QUOTE]

Agree Sir John- I am in Santiago and just finished the Primitivo on Saturday. After Escamplero it was mostly tracks, paths and lots of climbing! Beautiful and great views with small villages. A little road walking in and out of villages but then right back onto paths. A few places you can opt to walk the road but no one did. I came up the Salvador route (very little road after leaving suburbs of Leon) and met several people from the Norte. I was told that the Primitivo had much less asphalt walking than the Norte. Highly recommend it!!!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Oviedo to Esclampero is all asphalt. Next stretch to Grado is mostly paved except for a bit about 2km in: Premona, Penaflor into grado is all road. Grado to San Juan as well, or at least gravel. And the list goes on. There are places where you are walking along buzy roads, coming out of Salas, under windmills, or coming into Fonsagrada, into Campielo and to Borres, all asphalt, except for the last 500m. From Grandas to Castro, all asphalt. I mich prefer asphalt to tractor tracks, so I was a happy camper.

 

[Tia Valeria]

With all respect Anenome it seems that you did not take the route others did. Yes you can choose to road walk (we ourselves did in a couple of places) but the sections you describe just do not fit with what I remember for most of the places mentioned. It sounds as though you walked what are given as 'alternative routes' in many places.
[Edit:- photos added]
These four photos are of the section between Grandas and Castro (over an hour's walking). The final short stretch into Castro (maybe 10 minutes) was on a minor road. This whole section is 6kms so about an hour and a half in all walking.

 

[Pelegrin]

The Primitivo has beautiful tracks that can be muddy. I´m remembering now that long one before Tineo with the valley down on your left.

 

[jerbear]

my opinion is less asphalt than trail! have fun Conor! Its a blast.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Like Tia Valeria, I recall more tracks--I did see several pilgrims opting for the road (not sure if they missed the turn or felt it was shorter)...but I saw similar alternate path choices on the Norte also. Get a guide book and read through it to get an idea if you are being sent off through the woods or onto a busy highway (my guidebook would say which alternate was shorter, higher, more road walking, etc).

 

[Anemone del Camino]

The Primitivo has beautiful tracks that can be muddy. I´m remembering now that long one before Tineo with the valley down on your left.

That day into Tineo is absolutely beautiful, and has a free pilgrim loo built just for us! A must see.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Like Tia Valeria, I recall more tracks--I did see several pilgrims opting for the road (not sure if they missed the turn or felt it was shorter)...but I saw similar alternate path choices on the Norte also. Get a guide book and read through it to get an idea if you are being sent off through the woods or onto a busy highway (my guidebook would say which alternate was shorter, higher, more road walking, etc).

I don't remember any alternate routes! My memory mist be failing me. Because I used two guides, Cicerone and Editorial buen camino.... Please tell me the day into Ponferada after the alto and the one into Lugo were all asfalt? No?

 

[Tia Valeria]

I don't remember any alternate routes! My memory mist be failing me. Because I used two guides, Cicerone and Editorial buen camino.... Please tell me the day into Ponferada after the alto and the one into Lugo were all asfalt? No?

We used the CSJ guide, which gives directions along tracks with alternatives along roads for bad weather and for cyclists.
Between Cádabo and Castroverde we did find some road walking but tracks too. After Castroverde most was track until coming into Lugo when again it was on the side roads.

For a good selection of photos see the etapas (fotos) on Gronze. Stage 9 is here. Once on the fotos section it 'holds' for photos of all the etapas.

 

[Pelegrin]

I don't remember any alternate routes! My memory mist be failing me. Because I used two guides, Cicerone and Editorial buen camino.... Please tell me the day into Ponferada after the alto and the one into Lugo were all asfalt? No?

Maybe, you meant Fonsagrada (no Ponferrada). Yes I remember some asfalt before Fonsagrada but this stage was one of the best for me because it ended with a great menu in O Caldeira (famous pulpo included). Also, the previous stop at the bar near the border Asturias/Galicia was very nice
It was an unforgettable day .

 

[TerryB]

I don't remember any alternate routes! My memory mist be failing me. Because I used two guides, Cicerone and Editorial buen camino.... Please tell me the day into Ponferada after the alto and the one into Lugo were all asfalt? No?

There is some walking on minor roads on the way into Lugo but the walk from Castroverde to Lugo has one of the most attractive stretches of level track on the Primitivo IMHO. With the added interest of the old field irrigation system which was widely used in earlier farming practices.



Blessings
Tio Tel

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Maybe, you meant Fonsagrada (no Ponferrada). Yes I remember some asfalt before Fonsagrada but this stage was one of the best for me because it ended with a great menu in O Caldeira (famous pulpo included). Also, the previous stop at the bar near the border Asturias/Galicia was very nice
It was an unforgettable day .

Yes, ypu are right, my mistake on the town's name. And LOVED the funky little var on the border, what a special little place. Great empanada de atun.

 

[Conor2015]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for all the various posts. I haven't logged on in weeks. The general consensus is that alot of the Primitivo is on tracks. That is a relief to find out.

A 'real pilgrims path' should mainly be on tracks I would argue. I look forward to walking it in April 2016.

Kind regards
Conor

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I don't remember any alternate routes! My memory mist be failing me. Because I used two guides, Cicerone and Editorial buen camino.... Please tell me the day into Ponferada after the alto and the one into Lugo were all asfalt? No?

I also used CSJ augmented w Groze. Although I will say I often questioned CSJ Norte guidelines like 'look for the two oak trees and go straight' or 'keep to the right at the old tractor'...or the day I looked everywhere for the red bridge that was now blue (as opposed to the yellow bridge now white)

Hmmm, maybe THAT'S why I had more of an off road experience....

Also I'll grant walking in/out of any big city means roads...and since it was dark getting to lugo for me I REALLY remember the industrial area, overpass, etc. But the same can be said for Bilbao, Leon, SdC...