Astorga

[frannie z]

i have a short stop in astorga -- any great food recommendations and/or special sites to see?

 

[C.C.]

The Chocolate Museum is interesting and tasty …and of course, the Gaudi

 

[J Walking]

We spent hours in the remarkable “Bishop’s Palace” (Palacio Episcopal de Astorga) that was never actually lived in by a bishop! It is an architectural wonder and a museum featuring many items of religious art specific to the Camino.
We were impressed by the works of the architect, Antoni Gaudí, that we visited Barcelona (including Sagrada Familia Cathedral still under construction 97 years after his death). It is one of only three buildings designed by him outside the region of Catalonia, Spain and it does not disappoint.

 

[thomryng]

In addition to the above, the Cathedral museum is also amazing.

 

[CWBuff]

I did what I dubbed as "A Full Trifecta" in Astorga - The Cathedral, Bishop's Palace (Gaudi) and Chocolate Museum. Of the 3 I was least impressed with the Choc Museum, perhaps party due to the fact that I have been through similar establishmets prior (if anything I am roughly one hour away from Hershey PA with all those candies, chocolates, etc.). Plus it is a bit of a walk... if you have a short stop (which I actually did as well) may reconsider.
If you like\love Gaudi then The Palace is a MUST for sure. His design is un-mistakable and interestingly the basement\crypt (however you want to call it) reminded me of the same in Casa Guell in Barcelona

Good luck, Have a good time and Buen Camino

 

[mspath]

frannie Z,
 On the camino at the eastern side of Astorga are excavated Roman ruins including mosaics and a bath. In the center of the city do catch a glimpse if the famous "bell ringers" perform on the municipal building . Nearby are several pleasant cafes. If you need any gear the shop Deportes Huracan on plaza Santocildes 1 offers quality hiking clothes and equipment.
Have a good stop and Buen camino!

 

[naplesdon]

stay for a day, it is worth it

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Guys, I agree with the above but you are forgetting the Roman museum. I found the old grave stones very moving.

We spent several days in Astorga as Peg recovered from tendonitis. The visitors center and the Red Cross lent us wheelchair so Peg could visit all these places too (they got a nice donation). In the Episcopal Palace Peg, the Gaudí fan, hobbled up the staircases while I hauled the chair.

 

[Perambulating Griffin]

The Roman archeological museum is absolutely marvelous as well. And at opposite ends of the spectrum... there is a Micheline starred place that serves lunch right near the archeological museum, and street churros are wonderful if you are there on a market day. The Roman museum is just down the street from the parochial albergue, and the Michelin starred joint is beside it I think. If you can rope a pile of people in to join you, there is a spot across from the Palacio Gaudi that serves the Cocida Maragato.
Suerte.

 

[Damien Reynolds]

Prolly too late now but one of my favorite places in Astorga is the sports shop with the huge backpack out front. They have everything! Including the nice fat pole tips... because the small ones that came with your poles, if you've been walking for a bit, are definitely worn out by Astorga.

 

[pepi]

Funny; the OP asked primarily for great food recommendations but instead of helpful suggestions only received references to the chocolate factory . (As a Swiss, I refrain from giving my (biased) opinion on the chocolate quality in Astorga)
In fact, Astorga has some very good restaurants. Personally, I've had wonderful dining experiences at both, Restaurante Serrano and La Peseta and highly recommend them. Note that they are well beyond the usual Peregrino menus and prices, of course.
As for lunch, I normally avoid these touristy open-air cafes on the main plazas; in Astorga however, I was surprised with very tasty and reasonably priced dishes.
Buen provecho.

 

[StDenis]

The hot chocolate at Chocolateria La Cepedana (across the street from the Roman villa ruins). It has the consistency of a pudding. Great for dipping cookies.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Another site to see in Astorga is the shop I came across, the perfumería that also sells cow manure.

 

[Tandem Graham]

The town hall in Astoria is good to look at while you snack on a tortilla in the main square. You can also go inside on the pretence of seeking a stamp - a couple of the interiors are interesting.

 

[BROWNCOUNTYBOB]

We enjoy relaxing in the nice park that is adjacent to the municipal albergue. It sits high on a ridge and has great views of the surrounding areas. And we have enjoyed wonderful meals in Astorga. Some of our favorite meals in Spain are pulpo and paella. Last visit, we had both within one pilgrim's meal, with wine of course! Bob

 

[pelerine]

Another site to see in Astorga is the shop I came across, the perfumería that also sells cow manure.

???????

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Another site to see in Astorga is the shop I came across, the perfumería that also sells cow manure.

???????

It's true. I remember it be a corner shop. I've tried a few times to find it on Google Maps but with no luck. I think I took a picture but if I did it didn't survive my SD card disaster.

But exploring Maps I did find a new museum in Astorga, a clock museum.

MUSEO DEL TIEMPO · C. Martínez Salazar, 9, 24700 Astorga, León, Spain

★★★★★ · Museum

maps.app.goo.gl

 

[eamann]

If you are looking for a meal typical of the region and not "touristy", do try "Las Termas". Its speciality is the "Cocido Maragata". The restaurant has been in the prestigious French Michelin guide for years and has a "BIB" label, meaning it is very good value for money. You want to eat this meal for lunch because it is very substantial.

Restaurante Las Termas - El mejor cocido maragato. |

www.restaurantelastermas.com

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

If you are looking for a meal typical of the region and not "touristy", do try "Las Termas". Its speciality is the "Cocido Maragata".

I looked up Cocido Maragata and found a webpage describing it, telling how to eat it, a couple of stories about its origins and a recipe. A warning though, the preparation time is given as 12 hours and I don't think that includes the time spend searching for the ingredients.

Account Suspended

 

[Camino Chrissy]

But exploring Maps I did find a new museum in Astorga, a clock museum.

The website photo for the clock museum looks amazing. I have a collection of small antique clocks and would enjoy seeing this museum.

 

[naplesdon]

I had a superb local vino tinto there with dinner, a full bodied red and full of sediment. I only wish I had written down the name.

 

[DoughnutANZ]

We enjoy relaxing in the nice park that is adjacent to the municipal albergue. It sits high on a ridge and has great views of the surrounding areas. And we have enjoyed wonderful meals in Astorga. Some of our favorite meals in Spain are pulpo and paella. Last visit, we had both within one pilgrim's meal, with wine of course! Bob

Taken in the park mentioned by Bob. Peace and beauty from a cannon.

 

[pepi]

View attachment 142589
Taken in the park mentioned by Bob. Peace and beauty from a cannon.

Paella, like Pizza, is mostly of the deep-frozen and factory-made variety along the Camino; the "real thing" is found in southern Spain along the Mediterranean. The main importance of course is that you were hungry enough to like it in spite.

 

[SeñorJacques]

Astorga was one of my favorite places on the Camino. I treated myself two nights at the Hotel Gaudi and had an amazing view of the palace and cathedral right outside my window. All the suggestions for things to see — the palace, the chocolate and Roman history museums — are good ones, and the Cathedral museum was one of the best of the entire Camino for me.

As for restaurants, we had a terrific meal at Restaurante Tandem (not far from the Roman museum) which was one of the few places our group could find that could accommodate vegans. The salads were excellent, especially so after being so salad-deprived for so long. Highly recommended!

 

[JabbaPapa]

For breakfast, on the morning of the rest day, I'd definitely recommend a place on Plaza de España, the bar on a corner (of Calle Señor Orvalle) with a more modern looking interior. Their coffee is great, and their breakfast munchies are too -- pastries looked fine, and the bacon & eggs I had was quite satisfying.

On the way out when you carry on, either one of the two places right at the edge of town, about where you cross the main road -- personally I prefer the one on the left after that intersection. And/or stop for something along the way at the bar on the left-hand side in Murias de Rechivaldo, it's a village bar for the locals better than most, and quite happy with custom from pilgrims as well.

For food, at least one meal at the cheaper place, with its proper menú del dia, including a bottle of tinto, which IIRC is on Calle Magín Revillo near the Plaza Obispo Alcolea. Except on their closing day, they serve their menu for lunchtime and dinner both. Most places in Astorga are overpriced, because the place is so touristy.

 

[CWBuff]

My Astorga meal was a Menu del Dia at Pasaje restaurant on Plaza Major

Potato soup with mussels​

Meatballs in green sauce​

Nutmeg pudding/custard​

​

I remember that meal very well due to the fact that a pair of American femle Pilgrims sat down at the table next to mine and somewhere along the line informed me that the negative COVID 72-hours prior to departure test was no longer required in order to return back home.

 

[kamleman]

I did what I dubbed as "A Full Trifecta" in Astorga - The Cathedral, Bishop's Palace (Gaudi) and Chocolate Museum. Of the 3 I was least impressed with the Choc Museum, perhaps party due to the fact that I have been through similar establishmets prior (if anything I am roughly one hour away from Hershey PA with all those candies, chocolates, etc.). Plus it is a bit of a walk... if you have a short stop (which I actually did as well) may reconsider.
If you like\love Gaudi then The Palace is a MUST for sure. His design is un-mistakable and interestingly the basement\crypt (however you want to call it) reminded me of the same in Casa Guell in Barcelona

Good luck, Have a good time and Buen Camino

From what I remember Gaudí started design of the palace but after falling out with the council never finished it. Apparently he hated Astorga so much that he said he would prefer to fly over it by balloon rather than enter it

We had lunch at Restaurante Serrano, which was very good.