LIVE from the Camino Aunt and niece, version 4.

[NualaOC]

Following 3 failed attempts and a near-miss when I had Covid a few weeks ago, my 14-year old niece (Caoimhe) and I are finally on the Camino.

We arrived in O Cebreiro yesterday, tired from our 3am rise and a few stressful travel moments. It felt like the perfect place to leave all that behind and begin our journey. We enjoyed the pilgrim blessing in the little church and the comfortable beds of Hotel O Cebreiro.

We walked to Triacastela today, in heavy rain and strong winds. A baptism of fire and a test of our resilience, sense of humour and rain gear! High scores for the first two, but poor performance on the third 😀 We’ll need to buy a better raincoat in Sarria.

We stopped for a break at Albergue la Reboilera in Fonfria. The guy in the bar was so kind to us and we thawed out very happily for a while. Caoimhe enjoyed the restorative power of a Cola Cao and hot sandwich.

More rain and wind for the final 9kms to Triacastela, but we managed fine and laughed a lot.

Great to be here and it’s a privilege to be sharing the Camino with a young person. A special experience for both of us.

Any recommendations for outdoor stores in Sarria?
Thanks! Nuala & Caoimhe.

 

[vjpdx]

I'd love to see this as a Live on the Camino if you're willing to keep us updated, Nuala.

Buen Camino!

 

[ebrandt]

Glad to hear you are warm and dry! We have special memories of Triacastela where we had a birthday celebration for one of our pilgrim friends. It was a wonderful meal only eaten on the Camino — chicken and hotdogs with spicy tomato sauce and pasta. Salad ( lettuce with corn). And Tarta de Santiago with Birthday candles. Oh, and lots of wine and fellowship!

 

[donalomahony]

Following 3 failed attempts and a near-miss when I had Covid a few weeks ago, my 14-year old niece (Caoimhe) and I are finally on the Camino.

We arrived in O Cebreiro yesterday, tired from our 3am rise and a few stressful travel moments. It felt like the perfect place to leave all that behind and begin our journey. We enjoyed the pilgrim blessing in the little church and the comfortable beds of Hotel O Cebreiro.

We walked to Triacastela today, in heavy rain and strong winds. A baptism of fire and a test of our resilience, sense of humour and rain gear! High scores for the first two, but poor performance on the third 😀 We’ll need to buy a better raincoat in Sarria.

We stopped for a break at Albergue la Reboilera in Fonfria. The guy in the bar was so kind to us and we thawed out very happily for a while. Caoimhe enjoyed the restorative power of a Cola Cao and hot sandwich.

More rain and wind for the final 9kms to Triacastela, but we managed fine and laughed a lot.

Great to be here and it’s a privilege to be sharing the Camino with a young person. A special experience for both of us.
Any recommendations for outdoor stores in Sarria?
Thanks! Nuala & Caoimhe.

Novedades

prendas montaña Trango en stock, 140 sandalias trekking Teva, calzado ligero Goretex de alpinismo, forro polar windstopper, soft shell, camisetas térmicas, pantalones trekking, guías Camino Santiago, polainas, saco, mochila, poncho

www.peregrinoteca.com

Walk right into Sarria and on the right hand side just before you go up the steps...

Follows Siesta hours!

From memory...

 

[OzAnnie]

my 14-year old niece (Caoimhe) and I are finally on the Camino. (Also) (We’ll need to buy a better raincoat in Sarria!” )

Sounds wonderful -

I hope you don’t need the raincoats for long? but the rain hasn’t dampened your enthusiasm ❤️

Buen camino

 

[NualaOC]

Sounds wonderful -

I hope you don’t need the raincoats for long? but the rain hasn’t dampened your enthusiasm ❤️

Buen camino

Thank you Annie! Our enthusiasm is still very high 😀

 

[NualaOC]

Novedades

prendas montaña Trango en stock, 140 sandalias trekking Teva, calzado ligero Goretex de alpinismo, forro polar windstopper, soft shell, camisetas térmicas, pantalones trekking, guías Camino Santiago, polainas, saco, mochila, poncho

www.peregrinoteca.com

Walk right into Sarria and on the right hand side just before you go up the steps...

Follows Siesta hours!

From memory...

Thanks Donal, that looks great. It also seems to open on Sunday, which is when we’ll arrive. Short stroll to Samos today.

 

[NualaOC]

I'd love to see this as a Live on the Camino if you're willing to keep us updated, Nuala.

Buen Camino!

I’ll do my best, @vjpdx - and I’ll add other useful info when I’m back home.

 

[NualaOC]

Day 2: Triacastela to Samos. A very leisurely 12 kms.

What a difference a day makes! We woke up to birdsong, rather than rattly weather noises.

With such a short distance to walk, we took our time and made porridge in the in the Complexo Jacobeo albergue. This place was perfect for us - the facilities and warm welcome of an albergue, but with a private room.

Today’s stroll to Samos was a joy, with fine weather and beautiful Galician countryside.

We're both newbies today, as it's my first time in Samos (shocking, I know 😄). It was fun to do everything with a beginner’s mind - we really enjoyed the walk and the tour of the monastery.

We’ve met and chatted with quite a few pilgrims, but the Camino has felt very quiet so far. That will probably change soon and we’re looking forward to shared pilgrim meals etc.

We also did a quick taxi jaunt to Sarria for a new raincoat (the store told us they’re closed on Sundays). Job done and we’re all set for next week’s weather!

A few pics from today

View attachment 122353








Apologies for the inevitable typos and clumsy photo sharing. I struggle to do this stuff on my phone.

 

[JMac56]

I haven't walked via Samos yet either. Maybe next time. 🙏🚶‍♂️

 

[OzAnnie]

I walked via Samos in 2013 but (accidentally 🤔).
I’m so glad I went that way.
@NualaOC I’m really enjoying this live thread . Those following will gain a lot from your comments and forecasts too.. 😉
Buen camino to you both.

 

[LTfit]

Missed your Friday start but glad I'm catching up now @NualaOC .

How wonderful you two are finally making it happen😊

Ultreia!

 

[ebrandt]

My camera went to Samos but we did not! I left the camera in Tracastela by accident. We had intended to go to Samos but got very bad info and were told the walk was lots of pavement. So we stayed on the main Camino. Friends who rescued the camera thought we went to Samos and walked that way to catch up with us 🙄. I’m so glad you got there.

 

[NualaOC]

Day 3: Samos to Barbadelo. About 20kms.

I’m still trying to figure out why in four walks on the Camino Francés, it’s my first time to walk vía Samos. I had no idea how beautiful and atmospheric this walk is.

But, back to the tia y sobrina story. Last night’s stay in A Casa do Botica in Samos was really nice. It’s a beautifully restored building, originally part of the monastery’s dispensary. The owner is so welcoming and helpful. Great breakfast too.

Today's walk had a nice structure to it. We stopped for a break at the quirky Pension da Fonte and had a funny conversation with the owner about Cola Cao (Caoimhe’s new favourite drink). Despite my awful Spanish, we discovered that we both have sons living in London and agreed that Spanish food (but especially Cola Cao 🙂) is very overpriced there. A Galician mamá and an Irish mammy connection.

We continued to Sarria, where we stopped for lunch and some pilgrim-watching before the last few kilometers to Casa Barbadelo. As others have said, this a very nice place, with good food.

We had a few conversations with other pilgrims today, but we’re on a mission to be super-sociable tomorrow. Although the quiet vibe is fine for me, it’s not so great for a teenager! It’s interesting to see things from a different perspective.

Portomarín tomorrow.

 

[Flog]

It's nice to walk with a youngster, to get things from their perspective. I was lucky to walk with my son for a week on two caminos, I think I embarrassed him on occasion but it was a great experience for us both..

 

[NualaOC]

II think I embarrassed him on occasion

All part of our job description as parents!

 

[timr]

@NualaOC Really happy to hear you are back on the road..... Wonderful!

 

[NualaOC]

@NualaOC Really happy to hear you are back on the road..... Wonderful!

Thank you, Tim. Hope all is well with you.

 

[MickMac]

Day 2: Triacastela to Samos. A very leisurely 12 kms.

What a difference a day makes! We woke up to birdsong, rather than rattly weather noises.

With such a short distance to walk, we took our time and made porridge in the in the Complexo Jacobeo albergue. This place was perfect for us - the facilities and warm welcome of an albergue, but with a private room.

Today’s stroll to Samos was a joy, with fine weather and beautiful Galician countryside.

We're both newbies today, as it's my first time in Samos (shocking, I know 😄). It was fun to do everything with a beginner’s mind - we really enjoyed the walk and the tour of the monastery.

We’ve met and chatted with quite a few pilgrims, but the Camino has felt very quiet so far. That will probably change soon and we’re looking forward to shared pilgrim meals etc.

We also did a quick taxi jaunt to Sarria for a new raincoat (the store told us they’re closed on Sundays). Job done and we’re all set for next week’s weather!

A few pics from today

View attachment 122353 View attachment 122354

View attachment 122355


View attachment 122357

View attachment 122358

Apologies for the inevitable typos and clumsy photo sharing. I struggle to do this stuff on my phone.

Day 3: Samos to Barbadelo. About 20kms.

I’m still trying to figure out why in four walks on the Camino Francés, it’s my first time to walk vía Samos. I had no idea how beautiful and atmospheric this walk is.

But, back to the tia y sobrina story. Last night’s stay in A Casa do Botica in Samos was really nice. It’s a beautifully restored building, originally part of the monastery’s dispensary. The owner is so welcoming and helpful. Great breakfast too.

Today's walk had a nice structure to it. We stopped for a break at the quirky Pension da Fonte and had a funny conversation with the owner about Cola Cao (Caoimhe’s new favourite drink). Despite my awful Spanish, we discovered that we both have sons living in London and agreed that Spanish food (but especially Cola Cao 🙂) is very overpriced there. A Galician mamá and an Irish mammy connection.

We continued to Sarria, where we stopped for lunch and some pilgrim-watching before the last few kilometers to Casa Barbadelo. As others have said, this a very nice place, with good food.

We had a few conversations with other pilgrims today, but we’re on a mission to be super-sociable tomorrow. Although the quiet vibe is fine for me, it’s not so great for a teenager! It’s interesting to see things from a different perspective.

Portomarín tomorrow.


View attachment 122419 View attachment 122420 View attachment 122421 View attachment 122422

My first Samos walk on 6th of May, have to catch train back to Santiago on 7th for connection to Dublin how long did it take you to walk from Samos to Sarria and was it clearly, marked. Maith thú.

 

[NualaOC]

My first Samos walk on 6th of May, have to catch train back to Santiago on 7th for connection to Dublin how long did it take you to walk from Samos to Sarria and was it clearly, marked. Maith thú.

Hi Mick,

Samos to Sarria is about 15kms, on a mix of road and natural trails. Parts of it need to be taken slowly. We went at a very leisurely pace - I think it took us about 4 hours or a bit less. Sorry to be so vague - I can’t remember the exact timings (even though it was only yesterday 😱).

It was well marked, but the markers aren’t as frequent as on other sections.

Hope this helps. Nuala.

 

[NualaOC]

Day 4: Barbadelo to Portomarín - about 19kms.

The quiet trails of the past few days feel like a distant memory. We joined a noisy and joyful wave of young Spanish pilgrims this morning. Their enthusiasm is infectious!

It was also good to meet the later waves of pilgrims in Portomarín and have a few English conversations.

Caoimhe is now fully immersed in the daily Camino routines and she's very organised. No chance of us missing any arrows - and unlike me, she won’t leave anything behind.

We’re keeping a daily journal, with little anecdotes, animal stories, pilgrim nationalities, kindness received/given etc. It has become a daily siesta ritual and we take turns with the writing.

We experienced a special moment of kindness today. One of Caoimhe’s hiking poles was damaged and she figured she could do a temporary repair with the right size of screw. We called into a Ferretería in Portomarín and explained our predicament (using hand signals!). The elderly owner did that lovely thing of looking intently in complete silence, before rummaging through some little boxes. Not only did he find the right screw - he trimmed it for a better fit and secured the repair with insulating tape. We wanted to pay, but he refused and wished us a Buen Camino. A moment that we’ll always remember.

Palas de Rei tomorrow.

 

[MickMac]

Hi Mick,

Samos to Sarria is about 15kms, on a mix of road and natural trails. Parts of it need to be taken slowly. We went at a very leisurely pace - I think it took us about 4 hours or a bit less. Sorry to be so vague - I can’t remember the exact timings (even though it was only yesterday 😱).

It was well marked, but the markers aren’t as frequent as on other sections.

Hope this helps. Nuala.

Many thanks Nuala should make it.
Buen Camino.

 

[JMac56]

Love that word, Ferretería. I always have a chuckle when I see it. I told my kids it's where you buy ferrets for hunting in Spain. (We used to have elderly Spanish neighbours in Sydney who kept ferrets as pets.) 😁🚶‍♂️

 

[NualaOC]

Love that word, Ferretería. I always have a chuckle when I see it. I told my kids it's where you buy ferrets for hunting in Spain. (We used to have elderly Spanish neighbours in Sydney who kept ferrets as pets.) 😁🚶‍♂️

I agree, it’s a great word. I always imagine a store full of ferrets. Oh what fun!

 

[NualaOC]

We’ve been following the traditional guidebook stages for the past few days: Palas de Rei, Arzua and now O Pedrouzo. Not much to report, other than that it’s very, very busy.

I’m not complaining about the crowds - it’s just a different way of doing things for me. Meeting other pilgrims and listening to their stories has been interesting and it’s nice to see familiar faces on the trail.

Walking with a teenager has been a lot of fun and a special experience for both us. Caoimhe has bucketloads of grit and has never complained, despite a few challenges.

Incidentally, the Camino has been a great cure for my post-Covid fatigue. Probably because I haven’t had time to think about it 😀

Santiago tomorrow.

.

 

[LavanyaLea]

I’ve been following your story since the beginning! I’ll be following pretty much similar route to you, in a month’s time

Buen camino, good luck tomorrow!

Please let us know afterwards how the last leg goes for you. I’m curious as to: what time you set off, what time you arrive in SdC, and how the queue to get the compostela is. Due to various reasons, I only have the day I’m arriving in SdC to get my compostela, and very worried I may not get it because of the queue!

 

[NualaOC]

I’ve been following your story since the beginning! I’ll be following pretty much similar route to you, in a month’s time

Buen camino, good luck tomorrow!

Please let us know afterwards how the last leg goes for you. I’m curious as to: what time you set off, what time you arrive in SdC, and how the queue to get the compostela is. Due to various reasons, I only have the day I’m arriving in SdC to get my compostela, and very worried I may not get it because of the queue!

Thank you @LavanyaLea, I’ll let you know how it goes. I’m sure you’re excited about your Camino.

We’re planning to set off very early tomorrow - not because we need to, but to finally use the head torches we’ve been carrying!

FYI - The QR system usually works well and doesn’t involve long queues. If you have a smartphone, you can scan the code when you arrive and go back later to get a Compostela. It’s very easy and people will help you if needed.

Have you decided where you’re staying in Pedrouzo? It’s worth looking at the location of any accommodation you’re considering as it’s a very ‘spread out’ town. You’ll save walking time by choosing somewhere close to the exit.

Feel free to reach out if you’ve any other concerns.

Nuala.

 

[ebrandt]

The first time we walked we entered Santiago on Ascension Day. We had no idea this was a big deal and the camino was incredibly crowded from Sarria to Santiago. It sort of felt like a party the whole way!

 

[LavanyaLea]

The first time we walked we entered Santiago on Ascension Day. We had no idea this was a big deal and the camino was incredibly crowded from Sarria to Santiago. It sort of felt like a party the whole way!

I’m starting my journey (driving) on Ascension Day too! Aside from expensive eurotunnel and halfway hotels….. (long weekend for French and Spanish people) I would probably meet more pilgrims who may have started in Leon/Ponferrada on Ascension Day, ie catch up with them in Sarria.

@NualaOC I’m staying in a pension, it looks like it’s on the main road in O Pedrouzo, 500m from the local church. Definitely going to use the QR and will pre-register my details beforehand, but I was told if I arrived late (after midday) I may not get the compostela the same day if too many people have clocked in.

 

[NualaOC]

Day 8 - Santiago!

We got up at 6 yesterday morning and hiked slowly through the forest with our head-torches. It was a perfect start to our last day of walking and good to be out of the crowds.

First breakfast in Amenal and a a very nice second one in Casa de Amancio. We enjoyed a lazy sauntering day, with a visit to the pilgrim statues at Monte do Gozo. It always surprises me that so few pilgrims go there.

We did the customary hanging around the cathedral, before checking in at San Martín Pinario. We’re on the pilgrim floor and it’s a great base for today’s wanderings, eating and shopping. Jeans for me (I always get fed up with pilgrim clothes and buy a pair in Mango!). Cola Cao and a hoodie for Caoimhe 😀

We saw the Good Friday procession/pageantry last night. Quite memorable, with a very good brass band.

@LavanyaLea - I’m probably not the best person to report on the pilgrim office piece, but I expect you’ve read @Albertinho’s advice and @Kathar1na’s comments on this thread.

We arrived around 2pm (?) and completed the short online form. We couldn’t figure out what to do next, so we went for lunch. On our return, we were told to go downstairs to get a ticket with a QR code. We did that and could then check online when we to return (about 2.5 hours later). So, don’t do what we did - get your ticket when you first arrive! If it’s a short wait, you can relax in the garden.

It’s a good system and faster than the (very good) pre-Covid one. Most people arriving had no idea what to do and were given the help they needed, even on one of the busiest days of the year.

It’s very nice to be here and we’re really proud of our shared journey.

 

[NualaOC]

And an early morning one:



I know there are different views here on the safety of walking in the dark. I’m not advocating this, but it was fine for us as experienced/sensible walkers with good head torches.

 

[OzAnnie]

Nuala
Your walk has brought a big smile to my face. The photos are so good - Thank-you for sharing your experience.
It will be such a special memory between the both of you ❤️❤️
Buen camino

 

[peregrina2000]

Wonderful report, @Nuala, I’ve enjoyed all your posts. What a wonderful thing for you and Caoimhe, memories you will both treasure so much. Seems like it was well worth the wait and all the postponements!

 

[LavanyaLea]

Day 8 - Santiago!

@LavanyaLea - I’m probably not the best person to report on the pilgrim office piece, but I expect you’ve read @Albertinho’s advice and @Kathar1na’s comments on this thread.

We arrived around 2pm (?) and completed the short online form. We couldn’t figure out what to do next, so we went for lunch. On our return, we were told to go downstairs to get a ticket with a QR code. We did that and could then check online when we to return (about 2.5 hours later). So, don’t do what we did - get your ticket when you first arrive! If it’s a short wait, you can relax in the garden.

It’s a good system and faster than the (very good) pre-Covid one. Most people arriving had no idea what to do and were given the help they needed, even on one of the busiest days of the year.

Amazing!!!! What a great trip and to do it during Semana Santa as well.

On Saturday, the Office reported 2185 pilgrims arriving. So I’m glad that after clocking in in the afternoon, you could still get the compostela!

Yup, I’ve read that very same post about the new QR system and yes, I’m aware we need to scan another one when we arrive that gives us the online waiting time. Makes sense as otherwise people can start queueing virtually when they haven’t even reached the city!

Hope you and Caoimhe treated yourselves nicely over Easter…

 

[NualaOC]

Nuala
Your walk has brought a big smile to my face. The photos are so good - Thank-you for sharing your experience.
It will be such a special memory between the both of you ❤️❤️
Buen camino

Wonderful report, @Nuala, I’ve enjoyed all your posts. What a wonderful thing for you and Caoimhe, memories you will both treasure so much. Seems like it was well worth the wait and all the postponements!

Thanks Annie and Laurie for your encouragement and support! This was a very different kind of walk for me, but a really special and memorable experience. I'm so glad we were finally able to do it.

 

[NualaOC]

On Saturday, the Office reported 2185 pilgrims arriving. So I’m glad that after clocking in in the afternoon, you could still get the compostela!

Yup, I’ve read that very same post about the new QR system and yes, I’m aware we need to scan another one when we arrive that gives us the online waiting time. Makes sense as otherwise people can start queueing virtually when they haven’t even reached the city!

I agree @LavanyaLea. There's no reason to expect any problems on your arrival, especially when you've already figured out what to do. Buen Camino!

 

[CaminoKentucky]

Thank you for your great report @NualaOC! Loved following along with you and reading about your adventures. What a blessing you could share our beloved Camino with your niece.

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