Autumn 2022 on the Via - Overview and costs.

[Rita Flower]

Hi all
I finally calculated my costs on the Via de la Plata last year and thought I would share with a bit of a summary of those amazing 59 days.
This might help those new to the Via.
For transparency I admit to being well into my ‘wisdom’ years and have average fitness.
Sevilla to Santiago - 59 days: 21 September - 27 November: 1007 Km. Shortest day = 10 Km: longest day = 27 Km.
I walked the Sanabres at the turnoff, rather than to Astorga.
Three rest days - Mérida, Salamanca and Ourense. One sick day in Zafra (terrible allergies and hayfever).
Average cost per day - €35.50. I stayed mainly in albergues / hostals but did have a few nights in hotels ranging from €45 - €80 (unexpected Saturday night in Mérida). I stayed in a hostel in Santiago (€25)
I mainly ate menu del dia in the late afternoon. Wonderful simple cooking that filled me up for the rest of the day (wine came with the meal). Other food purchased at supermarkets. One coffee per day.
I took a bus or taxi a few times adding up to about 95 Km in total. Mostly because of accommodation problems on a weekend or a fiesta - once because I couldn’t do the 33 Km required.
There were days when I saw no other pilgrims - I had the whole albergue to myself - hanging out with locals in the bar. And later, evenings sharing pilgrim meals and international conversations.
A most wonderful Camino - where time stands still. From the hot, demanding beginning in the wonderful Flamenco energy of Andalusia to the gentle lush forest paths of Galicia.
If you can find the time, do it in one go - if not, section by section would still be amazing.
Buen Camino

 

[Tassie Kaz]

Great summary @Rita Flower...& helpful to those of us still to make this happen.
Best wishes for your future endeavours!

 

[WalkingInGers]

Hi all
I finally calculated my costs on the Via de la Plata last year and thought I would share with a bit of a summary of those amazing 59 days.
This might help those new to the Via.
For transparency I admit to being well into my ‘wisdom’ years and have average fitness.
Sevilla to Santiago - 59 days: 21 September - 27 November: 1007 Km. Shortest day = 10 Km: longest day = 27 Km.
I walked the Sanabres at the turnoff, rather than to Astorga.
Three rest days - Mérida, Salamanca and Ourense. One sick day in Zafra (terrible allergies and hayfever).
Average cost per day - €35.50. I stayed mainly in albergues / hostals but did have a few nights in hotels ranging from €45 - €80 (unexpected Saturday night in Mérida). I stayed in a hostel in Santiago (€25)
I mainly ate menu del dia in the late afternoon. Wonderful simple cooking that filled me up for the rest of the day (wine came with the meal). Other food purchased at supermarkets. One coffee per day.
I took a bus or taxi a few times adding up to about 95 Km in total. Mostly because of accommodation problems on a weekend or a fiesta - once because I couldn’t do the 33 Km required.
There were days when I saw no other pilgrims - I had the whole albergue to myself - hanging out with locals in the bar. And later, evenings sharing pilgrim meals and international conversations.
A most wonderful Camino - where time stands still. From the hot, demanding beginning in the wonderful Flamenco energy of Andalusia to the gentle lush forest paths of Galicia.
If you can find the time, do it in one go - if not, section by section would still be amazing.
Buen Camino

How were the temperatures in southern Spain? Did you have easy access to water and food on via de la Plata?

 

[Rita Flower]

How were the temperatures in southern Spain? Did you have easy access to water and food on via de la Plata?

Hi @FireDragon
The temperatures didn’t get really high till after 1.00 pm. Night was around 18 C I think.
One day I tracked the temps - Midday 25 C; 1.00pm 29 C; 2.00 pm 35 C.
So most people started early - before dawn - sunrise was around 8 am.
I usually started walking between 6 - 7 am but one lovely pair of sisters used to start between 4-5 am and loved walking under the stars and moon. Sunrises were glorious.
The terrain is relatively flat and uniform - easy walking - and I didn’t feel like I was missing out on ‘the view’. Just be careful on any downhills though. It can be very hard to judge the slope in the dark.
A couple of times I walked till 2 pm because I started late (32C). It felt very hard but was doable. I had a UV umbrella and the sisters had special headscarves that you put in the freezer and they stayed cool for hours.
A good head torch is a must. Phone torches can be difficult to manage when walking in the dark for a couple of hours especially if you use poles.
Towns are on average within 20 k of each other with nothing in between, so you need to carry food and water. Check on Gronze. I sometimes took the help of a taxi or bus on longer stretches - twice to carry me and once to carry my pack. I carried a bit over 2 litres of water and that was enough for the distances I was walking. I read that using an umbrella reduces water consumption by 10%.
The towns themselves are largish with plenty of Bars and restaurants. The accommodation was mostly readily available at that time of year.
Don’t let the temps put you off. I really missed Andalusia and Extremadura after I left. Something about the heat and Flamenco energy that is awe inspiring.
Buen Camino

 

[WalkingInGers]

Hi @FireDragon
The temperatures didn’t get really high till after 1.00 pm. Night was around 18 C I think.
One day I tracked the temps - Midday 25 C; 1.00pm 29 C; 2.00 pm 35 C.
So most people started early - before dawn - sunrise was around 8 am.
I usually started walking between 6 - 7 am but one lovely pair of sisters used to start between 4-5 am and loved walking under the stars and moon. Sunrises were glorious.
The terrain is relatively flat and uniform - easy walking - and I didn’t feel like I was missing out on ‘the view’. Just be careful on any downhills though. It can be very hard to judge the slope in the dark.
A couple of times I walked till 2 pm because I started late (32C). It felt very hard but was doable. I had a UV umbrella and the sisters had special headscarves that you put in the freezer and they stayed cool for hours.
A good head torch is a must. Phone torches can be difficult to manage when walking in the dark for a couple of hours especially if you use poles.
Towns are on average within 20 k of each other with nothing in between, so you need to carry food and water. Check on Gronze. I sometimes took the help of a taxi or bus on longer stretches - twice to carry me and once to carry my pack. I carried a bit over 2 litres of water and that was enough for the distances I was walking. I read that using an umbrella reduces water consumption by 10%.
The towns themselves are largish with plenty of Bars and restaurants. The accommodation was mostly readily available at that time of year.
Don’t let the temps put you off. I really missed Andalusia and Extremadura after I left. Something about the heat and Flamenco energy that is awe inspiring.
Buen Camino

Wow: that is a super response and thank you. Looks like walking in the dark will be a possibility when walking through Andalusia and Extremadura. Did you find it easy to find lodging? Many pilgrims?

 

[Stivandrer]

35€ is right on the money for me too on the VdlP, same mix of basic albergues and sometimes split accomodation through booking.com, in a privat setting due to fx a festival in Caceres where everything was taken..
Gone are the days of yore with 25€ daily on the CF, too, I suppose.....

 

[Rita Flower]

Wow: that is a super response and thank you. Looks like walking in the dark will be a possibility when walking through Andalusia and Extremadura. Did you find it easy to find lodging? Many pilgrims?

Always glad to be of help.
There were Hotels (€25 +), Hostal Turiticas (€15) and or albergues (donativo / various prices) in nearly all towns. The only accommodation problems were after Zafra where there was a giant agricultural fair and the pilgrim only albergue was closed, Mérida and Banjos on a weekend were a bit tricky, and a couple of other places further along where the albergues were closed. Gronze and Gerald’s guide will give all the details. I am a slow walker and started a bit earlier in the season so there were not many pilgrims in the early weeks and there were a few days when I met no one but the locals ( I loved it). However others who started in early October caught up with me a bit later and there was company after that. But all in all, not a lot of people walk the Via. Spring seems to be preferred option so i think it’s busier and there maybe some stresses on the services at that time of the year.

 

[WalkingInGers]

I plan to start at mid September from Sevilla.

 

[Rita Flower]

I plan to start at mid September from Sevilla.

It will be hot and amazing. I think all the accommodation on the plains had air con. Recommend a UV umbrella, or some equivalent heat protection, and early starts. I am feeling excited for you.
Buen Camino

 

[WalkingInGers]

It will be hot and amazing. I think all the accommodation on the plains had air con. Recommend a UV umbrella, or some equivalent heat protection, and early starts. I am feeling excited for you.
Buen Camino

I had planned for mid September from Sevilla but wonder at this time in the juncture whether it would be better to leave in October probably having to deal with heat in the south and rain in Galicia.

 

[Rita Flower]

I had planned for mid September from Sevilla but wonder at this time in the juncture whether it would be better to leave in October probably having to deal with heat in the south and rain in Galicia.

Yes late September or early October is better. There will be rain in Galicia in November but I didn’t find it a problem - but I only got heavy rain in the day twice. It rained a lot in the night and showers in the day.

 

[WalkingInGers]

Yes late September or early October is better. There will be rain in Galicia in November but I didn’t find it a problem - but I only got heavy rain in the day twice. It rained a lot in the night and showers in the day.

It looks like October will be the objective now so I will now PLAN. Can’t wait to get to Sevilla.