LIVE from the Camino Back on the Camino

[Sunopo]

Arrived back in Casar de Casares to continue from where I left off in October and will be going to Astorga. Am in the Albergue de los peregrinos, 6€. Get key and scello from Tourist office, townhall, bar or phone depending on time of arrival. Free WiFi from outside in the square, signal passable. A couple of individual heaters and blankets/duvets. Hot water and washing machine and dryer available. The Dia reopens at 5pm and there is an equipped kitchen here.
Susan

 

[grayland]

I was the only one there in August a few years ago. It was very hot ( well over 115F) and the albergue had been closed for weeks with no pilgrims coming through.
Not an inviting place under those conditions.

 

[Bradypus]

I stayed there recently and found it a useful and comfortable place. What I remember most clearly was this notice on the door of a shower. I thought it was poor psychology - until I read the note the idea hadn't crossed my mind....

 

[Corned Beef]

Some suggest the opposite as it saves about 2 gallons of water each time (as opposed to the regular method)

Odd the things you pick up when reading about saving the planet.

 

[peregrina2000]

I stayed there recently and found it a useful and comfortable place. What I remember most clearly was this notice on the door of a shower. I thought it was poor psychology - until I read the note the idea hadn't crossed my mind....

View attachment 120092

As I remember this albergue, one of its less well-designed features was that there were bunk beds about two feet from the toilets, which had no doors, just plastic shower curtains. Maybe people's behavior reflected the fact that the toilets are almost on top of people, while the showers (whose location I can't remember) may provide some privacy. I am not defending the practice, just wondering why it would have become an issue in this one albergue of all places.

Arrived back in Casar de Casares to continue from where I left off in October ...

Good call @Sunopo, to avoid the extremely hazardous walk from Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres. Since you got there on a Monday, you would have encountered commuter traffic with a vengeance early Monday morning. Unless the pandemic has reduced commuting significantly.

Also, as I'm sure you know, the albergue in the embalse is closed, so you are now well positioned to make it to Cañaveral.

Buen camino! I look forward to hearing about your walk. Just out of curiosity, are you going to take the route through Riolobos?

 

[grayland]

As I remember this albergue, one of its less well-designed features was that there were bunk beds about two feet from the toilets, which had no doors, just plastic shower curtains. Maybe people's behavior reflected the fact that the toilets are almost on top of people, while the showers (whose location I can't remember) may provide some privacy. I am not defending the practice, just wondering why it would have become an issue in this one albergue of all places.

The location and rather crude design of the toilet location as well as the non-privacy of showers jumped out at me, as well.
I was there alone but was very surprised at how unacceptable it would be if there were many pilgrims…or worse yet..a full house.

 

[grayland]

I did walk on to the Embalse from Casar and again was the only one there. A huge beautiful modern albergue. I think it ranks ( to me) as the best I have seen.
It was a terrible location.
I am saddened to think it is sitting empty and unused.

 

[Sunopo]

I stayed there recently and found it a useful and comfortable place. What I remember most clearly was this notice on the door of a shower. I thought it was poor psychology - until I read the note the idea hadn't crossed my mind....

View attachment 120092

I've taken the same picture, it's funny I think.

 

[Sunopo]

The location and rather crude design of the toilet location as well as the non-privacy of showers jumped out at me, as well.
I was there alone but was very surprised at how unacceptable it would be if there were many pilgrims…or worse yet..a full house.

Yes it is odd. Tonight we are only 3 and have arranged ourselves so that we can use the toilets without disturbing. Not sure I'd like to stay here with full house.
Last time I was in Casar I stayed in the very nice and modern Albergue via de la Plata at the entrance to the town. I think its 25€ for a very upmarket place. Had 3 beds in the room it's possible to share.

 

[Sunopo]

As I remember this albergue, one of its less well-designed features was that there were bunk beds about two feet from the toilets, which had no doors, just plastic shower curtains. Maybe people's behavior reflected the fact that the toilets are almost on top of people, while the showers (whose location I can't remember) may provide some privacy. I am not defending the practice, just wondering why it would have become an issue in this one albergue of all places.



Good call @Sunopo, to avoid the extremely hazardous walk from Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres. Since you got there on a Monday, you would have encountered commuter traffic with a vengeance early Monday morning. Unless the pandemic has reduced commuting significantly.

Also, as I'm sure you know, the albergue in the embalse is closed, so you are now well positioned to make it to Cañaveral.

Buen camino! I look forward to hearing about your walk. Just out of curiosity, are you going to take the route through Riolobos?

Not sure yet about Riobolos, will decide on the day.
Re the toilets here, there are doors now but still right next to beds

 

[Sunopo]

As I remember this albergue, one of its less well-designed features was that there were bunk beds about two feet from the toilets, which had no doors, just plastic shower curtains. Maybe people's behavior reflected the fact that the toilets are almost on top of people, while the showers (whose location I can't remember) may provide some privacy. I am not defending the practice, just wondering why it would have become an issue in this one albergue of all places.



Good call @Sunopo, to avoid the extremely hazardous walk from Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres. Since you got there on a Monday, you would have encountered commuter traffic with a vengeance early Monday morning. Unless the pandemic has reduced commuting significantly.

Also, as I'm sure you know, the albergue in the embalse is closed, so you are now well positioned to make it to Cañaveral.

Buen camino! I look forward to hearing about your walk. Just out of curiosity, are you going to take the route through Riolobos?

Hi peregrina

As I remember this albergue, one of its less well-designed features was that there were bunk beds about two feet from the toilets, which had no doors, just plastic shower curtains. Maybe people's behavior reflected the fact that the toilets are almost on top of people, while the showers (whose location I can't remember) may provide some privacy. I am not defending the practice, just wondering why it would have become an issue in this one albergue of all places.



Good call @Sunopo, to avoid the extremely hazardous walk from Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres. Since you got there on a Monday, you would have encountered commuter traffic with a vengeance early Monday morning. Unless the pandemic has reduced commuting significantly.

Also, as I'm sure you know, the albergue in the embalse is closed, so you are now well positioned to make it to Cañaveral.

Buen camino! I look forward to hearing about your walk. Just out of curiosity, are you going to take the route through Riolobos?

Do you have any recommendations for Riobolos? I might go there. Tx

 

[C clearly]

there were bunk beds about two feet from the toilets, which had no doors, just plastic shower curtains. Maybe people's behavior reflected the fact that the toilets are almost on top of people, while the showers (whose location I can't remember)

Not sure I'd like to stay here with full house.

I've been there with a full house. It was a busy weekend in Caceres and all other accommodation was full. One room had the shower cubicles (curtained) opening to the room, another room had the toilets (I think they had doors with open bottoms) facing the beds. The sinks were all in the passage between those rooms. There was a third room that was only opened after the first two were filled, and I don't know what their facilities were. On the plus side, the owners of the Bar Majuca across the street were extremely welcoming to pilgrims and served great food.

Do you have any recommendations for Riobolos? I might go there. Tx

Camping Las Catalinas very pleasant and is run by friendly Nacho, who is very active in the VDLP community. I think he also manages the albergue in Galisteo.

 

[Sunopo]

I've been there with a full house. It was a busy weekend in Caceres and all other accommodation was full. One room had the shower cubicles (curtained) opening to the room, another room had the toilets (I think they had doors with open bottoms) facing the beds. The sinks were all in the passage between those rooms. There was a third room that was only opened after the first two were filled, and I don't know what their facilities were. On the plus side, the owners of the Bar Majuca across the street were extremely welcoming to pilgrims and served great food.


Camping Las Catalinas very pleasant and is run by friendly Nacho, who is very active in the VDLP community. I think he also manages the albergue in Galisteo.

Yes of course, camping Las Catalinas and the friendly Nacho, thanks for the reminder.
Unfortunately the Bar Majuca was closed yesterday and tonight in Canaveral the restaurant Asador is closed too.. Ate in the bar Delfi, only place open here tonight. Was okay.

 

[peregrina2000]

On the plus side, the owners of the Bar Majuca across the street were extremely welcoming to pilgrims and served great food.

I stayed in this albergue in 2004 or 6, and my best memory was from the lunch in the
bar/restaurant across the street. I distinctly remember that it was the first time on the Vdlp that I had had a salad mae with greens other than iceberg lettuce! That experience would not repeat itself until the Restaurante RosaMari in Montamarta. I konw a lot of people miss the Rosamari, which is a shame, because it is the last restaurant on the way out of town and it’s always a risk to pass up an open place in the hopes of finding something else!

Thanks for the update, @Sunopo, so good to hear reports in real time!

 

[Sunopo]

Decided to have a short day so walked very very slowly the 9 km to Grimaldo and am staying the lovely Posada de Grimaldo run by the lovely Cesar. Special price of 20€ for pilgrims IF you book direct and not through booking dot com and willing to share a room.
A note of caution to those walking at this time, at least in the Casar- Canaveral-Grimaldo area lots of "chenilles processionnaires" ( in French) called processionary caterpillars (?) in English. You mostly find them where there are pine trees. You will see lines or groups of these caterpillars try not to step on them or disturb them, they project fine barbed hair up to a meters distance and will give you severe allergic reaction, worse even if you get this in your eyes can blind you. Known to potentially be lethal to animals who might sniff them and their airway will swell and prevent breathing. Just saying.

 

[J Willhaus]

Decided to have a short day so walked very very slowly the 9 km to Grimaldo and am staying the lovely Posada de Grimaldo run by the lovely Cesar. Special price of 20€ for pilgrims IF you book direct and not through booking dot com and willing to share a room.
A note of caution to those walking at this time, at least in the Casar- Canaveral-Grimaldo area lots of "chenilles processionnaires" ( in French) called processionary caterpillars (?) in English. You mostly find them where there are pine trees. You will see lines or groups of these caterpillars try not to step on them or disturb them, they project fine barbed hair up to a meters distance and will give you severe allergic reaction, worse even if you get this in your eyes can blind you. Known to potentially be lethal to animals who might sniff them and their airway will swell and prevent breathing. Just saying.

I read about caterpillars in a book about a couple that moves to Spain. They were in Andalucia. Take care @Sunopo!

 

[Sunopo]

Yesterday walking from Grimaldo to Galisteo you have to go through many gates and at on there was this very tame deer. It came right up to me and then wanted to follow me through the gate. Thought it best to leave it behind, not sure a pet deer would be easy to take with me on the camino. But quite unusual for a deer to be so unafraid of humans.

 

[Sunopo]

Stayed last night at Albergue turistico de Galisteo, run by Nacho. Heating in dormitory, towel and bedding provided. Breakfast in a box, very simple. No cooking utensils but there is a microwave.
In the morning because the combination of fog and roadwalking seemed an unpleasant proposition, shared taxi to Carcaboso. Eventually fog lifted to become a beautiful day through wonderful scenery, some of the best so far.
Staying tonight at Albergue San Blas in Oliva de Placencia, the place completely renovated, fully equipped kitchen, heating in room. This little town is very nice. 20€ for a bed in a twin bedroom.

 

[Sunopo]

From Oliva de Placencia to Aldeanueva del Camino it was a dreary rainy day unfortunately. The Albergue in Aldeanueva is very nice and the hospitalero very helpful. Good kitchen facilities, washing machine and dryer and were provided heaters for the dormitory because the heating was not working. So very warm and cosy. 13/14€ for bed plus 2€ for simple breakfast in box.
The only tienda in town closed early maybe because it was a Monday but there is a Repsol station with a small shop about 1 km out of town. We simple but good food at the Hogar des Pensionistas only place open on Mondays.

 

[Sunopo]

Yesterday Aldeanueva to Valverde de Valdelacasa (+/- 33 km) and stayed in Albergue Santiago Apostel for 25€ for a single room or 10€ in dormitory. No heating unfortunately but hot showers. Not too clean. People managing place and bar are very kind. S mini tienda in the bar: tins of sardines and such and you can buy a bit of cheese too.
Happy Penguin was at Aldeanueva so we walked together from Banos de Montemayor and also today.
Today 30km +/- to Pedrosillo Los Aires and staying in Albergue donativo here. Hot showers, basic kitchen facilities, no real heating and power cuts out regularly when too many things plugged in. But again, people are kind and helpful and the person in bar will cook us some food for dinner.
Easy stage walking from Aldeanueva but we've had a yellow sand filled haze for the past two days which gives a gloomy dusk like light. No rain though

 

[Sunopo]

Stayed in Pedrosillo Los Aires last night a donativo. No heating, hot showers but the power goes as soon as too many things are plugged in. So that has to be managed carefully. The main switch is by the door so it's easy to reset. Town WiFi, ok in some areas, other areas not so much and barely any network to speak of.
The bar next door doesn't officially serve food but they kindly prepared a meal for the three of us @Happy Penguin and @darcelona , my Camino companions for the past few days.
On way to Salamanca we stopped in Miranda de Azan, just off the Camino and upon @Pawel s recommendation discovered an upmarket bar/restaurant called Musica. Well worth a stop before doing the last 10 km to Salamanca.

 

[peregrina2000]

walked very very slowly the 9 km to Grimaldo and am staying the lovely Posada de Grimaldo run by the lovely Cesar.

Posada de Grimaldo is a labor of love. This is his familial home, and I know that César has been adding rooms for more capacity. I think there may have only been two bedrooms when I stayed there.

The restaurant across the street has quite a good menú del día, did you manage to partake?

 

[Sunopo]

Posada de Grimaldo is a labor of love. This is his familial home, and I know that César has been adding rooms for more capacity. I think there may have only been two bedrooms when I stayed there.

The restaurant across the street has quite a good menú del día, did you manage to partake?

Yes, had a good meal at restaurant across street. And Cesar now has 3 double rooms on ground floor and he said he had more available upstairs so he must be nearly finished the renovations.

 

[Sunopo]

After 2 days in Salamanca now in El Cubo del Vino. Staying at Torre del Sabre. Filiberto, the owner is actually the president of the VdlP association. Had an excellent home cooked meal, healthy and nourishing. Good heating and hot shower. No cooking facilities except for a microwave. 24€ for bed (my own room) and 12€ for meal which was well worth it.
For those who do not want to walk along the n630 + the highway from Calzada de Valdunciel, one can catch the Salamanca-Zamora bus. The"normal" bus ( as opposed to the express) stops at most of the pueblos along the way. 1.50€ for Calzada to Cubo.

 

[Sunopo]

Tonight staying in Albergue de Fontanillas de Castro, 32km from Zamora. This is a donativo Albergue run by a couple who makes us all feel part of the family. They did our laundry, cooking dinner for us all (7) and breakfast, cups of coffee or tea, just incredible. Nice bathroom, hot water and heating. The best. It merits our generosity in return.

 

[Sunopo]

Tonight staying in Albergue de Fontanillas de Castro, 32km from Zamora. This is a donativo Albergue run by a couple who makes us all feel part of the family. They did our laundry, cooking dinner for us all (7) and breakfast, cups of coffee or tea, just incredible. Nice bathroom, hot water and heating. The best. It merits our generosity in return.

Let me add that we were all treated to a foot massage

 

[Gavala]

Even without the foot massage that sounded one of the best places.

 

[Sunopo]

I thought I would mention that many smaller villages, if they have a playground they generally have a fountain in or near it. I really began to notice it from Galisteo onwards. Perhaps useful later in the year when it's warmer.

 

[Sunopo]

Yesterday Fontanillas de Castro to Benavente, 36 km of which the last 7 on the Via Verde that goes from Barcial del Barco all the way to Pobladura del Valle (near Maire de Gastroponce/Alija del Infantado).
Today continued to Alija on the via Verde which allows you to avoid at least 13 km of road. You can't get off the via Verde just anywhere since it's a converted railway line and is often raised above the road. But getting off at Pobladura del Valle and rejoining the Camino on the road there works well and it's a very pretty walk.
Staying tonight in Alija and sharing the Casona de Coquina with 2 other pilgrims so paying 20€ each. Food served across the street at Pub Black &White.
Two tiendas in town.

 

[Sunopo]

The Casona de Coquina is in need of renovating. Not much else in town so we made do and the owner eventually got the heating going at about 8.30 pm which improved the mood.
22 km to Baneza staying in Albergue municipal for 10€. We got the heating going, hot water, good kitchen facilities, comfy hospital beds . Supermarket about 1 km .

 

[Sunopo]

Yesterday arrived in Astorga where I finish my Camino for now, just a little side trip on the Camino Frances to Léon before heading home.
In Astorga stayed in the Albergue peregrinos Siervas de Maria for 7€.
Kitchen still not available for cooking other than acces to a microwave.