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Back on the silver road again

2020 Camino Guides

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Well here I am back in beautiful Zamora again planning to walk via the Sanabres to Santiago. I had hoped to do Sevilla to Mérida (where we started last year) at Easter but that didn't happen and instead I ended up doing the gorgeous Baztan instead thanks to great enthusiasm from Nuala O'C and Laurie ( thanks again ladies it truly was a very special wee walk despite the rain!).
Zamora really is a lovely city with fabulous churches and a great plaza. Although there are a few more shops closed from last year and the Albergue only has 4 as at 4pm. Loads of rucksacks this morning at Madrid Chamartin, I think lots heading for Lugo Sarria and perhaps Santander?
I am walking with my Danish pal again and looking forward to a splendid walk. It's warm!
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Oh, wow, I had no memory of these plans. Great news, lucky you. As my deputized scout, 😄 I am particularly interested in hearing if you manage to avoid the bridge described in this post.


Gronze clearly shows the longer loop around to avoid it, https://www.gronze.com/etapa/puebla-sanabria/lubian (After Requejo and before Padornelo) but the OP of this thread had a terrible time of it. So be careful and by all means take the longer alternative.

And looking at Gronze, I see that the lovely babbling brook walk through Aciberos is now totally off the camino. This was done to avoid the AVE works. I hope the alternative into Lubián is nice.

Buen camino, @laineylainey! Abrazos from Laurie
 

Via2010

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
06/07 & 12 Camino Francés, 08-10 Via de la Plata, 13/14 & 17 Camino Portugués, 18 Camino Primitivo
According to Information available in Germany both variants (tunnel and mountain) are marked and you have the choice. The tunnel is recommended in rainy weather as the mountain path may be slippery then. It seems to be a difference of 2 km.
The old path to Aciberos is still feasible, though the yellow arrows have faded. Do not miss the turn-off 2 km behind the port of Padornelo.
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Oh, wow, I had no memory of these plans. Great news, lucky you. As my deputized scout, 😄 I am particularly interested in hearing if you manage to avoid the bridge described in this post.


Gronze clearly shows the longer loop around to avoid it, https://www.gronze.com/etapa/puebla-sanabria/lubian (After Requejo and before Padornelo) but the OP of this thread had a terrible time of it. So be careful and by all means take the longer alternative.

And looking at Gronze, I see that the lovely babbling brook walk through Aciberos is now totally off the camino. This was done to avoid the AVE works. I hope the alternative into Lubián is nice.

Buen camino, @laineylainey! Abrazos from Laurie
I will certainly report back Laurie.
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Lucky you, @laineylainey! Wishing you a Buen Camino and looking forward to hearing all about it. Nuala x
Nuala I am going to Belfast for 5 Fridays in October. A much loved Spanish teacher at Queen's is going 5 weekly lessons on my Achilles Spanish heel - el subjuntivo!
Hopefully we will get a chance to meet up and exchange notes. Thinking of the Madrid next year and the part you did before it, sorry my brain has already converted to Camino mush and I can't remember the name of it!
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
First day Zamora to Montamarte. I was sad leaving Zamora as it looks as though the town is getting ready for a fiesta perhaps this weekend? We were in Zamora last year for it and it was wonderful as most Spanish fiestas are!
Also the storks are still in town with their magnificent nests on top of churches and even electricity pylons along the way.
Not much to say about the short walk today except that as with other parts of the VdlP it is flat , straight and with no shelter. The only town is Roales and although notes say there is a pub and we were looking forward to a café con leche, it was closed!
In Montamarte we are not in the Albergue because we were very hot and a bit needing a drink, so we stopped at the excellent Restaurant Rosemari and had a drink and a wonderful mixed salad and a big plate of freshly made chips, best food ever! I often notice on a Camino how easy it is to really appreciate a simple plate of food, when it is good! Rosemari said they now offer rooms which is interesting as it isn't listed in Gronze. However we are now opposite in Casa Molino which is very good. I even had a wonderful swim in the small pool outside. Mind you I did spend most of my time rescuing drowning bumblebees and ladybirds from the pool!
If you stay in Montamarta on a Tuesday, bear in mind the only restaurant open now, doesn't open on a Wednesday and the nearest town from Montamarta is 12k away, a bit of a hike for breakfast. So stock up from good local shop for breakfast for Albergue or stay in the other Casa rural el Tío Bartolo which I am told offers breakfast?
I am reminded today that the VdlP isn't sometimes the prettiest Camino, but the people well make up for that in their hospitality and friendliness ( in my opinion!)
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
First day Zamora to Montamarte. I was sad leaving Zamora as it looks as though the town is getting ready for a fiesta perhaps this weekend? We were in Zamora last year for it and it was wonderful as most Spanish fiestas are!
Also the storks are still in town with their magnificent nests on top of churches and even electricity pylons along the way.
Not much to say about the short walk today except that as with other parts of the VdlP it is flat , straight and with no shelter. The only town is Roales and although notes say there is a pub and we were looking forward to a café con leche, it was closed!
In Montamarte we are not in the Albergue because we were very hot and a bit needing a drink, so we stopped at the excellent Restaurant Rosemari and had a drink and a wonderful mixed salad and a big plate of freshly made chips, best food ever! I often notice on a Camino how easy it is to really appreciate a simple plate of food, when it is good! Rosemari said they now offer rooms which is interesting as it isn't listed in Gronze. However we are now opposite in Casa Molino which is very good. I even had a wonderful swim in the small pool outside. Mind you I did spend most of my time rescuing drowning bumblebees and ladybirds from the pool!
If you stay in Montamarta on a Tuesday, bear in mind the only restaurant open now, doesn't open on a Wednesday and the nearest town from Montamarta is 12k away, a bit of a hike for breakfast. So stock up from good local shop for breakfast for Albergue or stay in the other Casa rural el Tío Bartolo which I am told offers breakfast?
I am reminded today that the VdlP isn't sometimes the prettiest Camino, but the people well make up for that in their hospitality and friendliness ( in my opinion!)
Restaurante Rosemari!!!! Oh, how I loved that place. I think I remember that it was owned and run by two women, and I know I remember that it was one of a very few places where the salad was made with real leaf lettuce, not iceberg. Yes, you are right about how a plate of fresh simple food is so satisfying after all the walking. So glad you had a good day.
 
Camino(s) past & future
(2009): Camino Frances
(2011): Sevilla-Salamanca, VdlP
(2012): Salamanca-SdC, VdlP
(2014): SJpdP-Astorga
(2015): Astorga-SdC
(2016) May Pamplona-Moratinos; Sept.:Burgos-SdC
(2016): August/Sept: Camino San Olav (Burgos-Covarubbias), Burgos-Sarria
(2017): May: Portuguese; Sept: Pamplona-SdC
Via de la Plata: It does NOT mean the the Silver way, contrary to what most people believe:


It is a very nice way, though. 2.000 years old. And Merida was the pensioner city for old Roman soldiers, hence theatre and other fantastic facilities there. Wish I was an old Roman retired soldier in Merida... :) :cool:
 
Last edited:
Camino(s) past & future
(2009): Camino Frances
(2011): Sevilla-Salamanca, VdlP
(2012): Salamanca-SdC, VdlP
(2014): SJpdP-Astorga
(2015): Astorga-SdC
(2016) May Pamplona-Moratinos; Sept.:Burgos-SdC
(2016): August/Sept: Camino San Olav (Burgos-Covarubbias), Burgos-Sarria
(2017): May: Portuguese; Sept: Pamplona-SdC
Yes I know😊 I believe Plata in Spanish means silver?
Yes, plata is Spanish for silver, but:

"The term Vía de la Plata is commonly thought to derive from the modern Spanish word for silver, plata. The name actually derives from the Arabic word al-balat, which means cobbled paving and described the road as engineered by the Romans. "

It is a great and beautiful walk nonetheless. It is sometimes called "the Camino Duro" (Going through the district of Extremaduro (Extremely hard): The hard Camino. it can be.
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Yes, worrying reports about the Albergue and it is a bit out of the town. Sorry I can't report on what is happening exactly. The info about Tío Bartolo was from a local woman, but I have no proof to back that one up.
On a more positive note, I thoroughly recommend Restaurant Rosemari.
Yes, plata is Spanish for silver, but:

"The term Vía de la Plata is commonly thought to derive from the modern Spanish word for silver, plata. The name actually derives from the Arabic word al-balat, which means cobbled paving and described the road as engineered by the Romans. "

It is a great and beautiful walk nonetheless. It is sometimes called "the Camino Duro" (Going through the district of Extremaduro (Extremely hard): The hard Camino. it can be.
Extremadura for a simple gal like me means lovely people and great tapas!
 
Camino(s) past & future
(2009): Camino Frances
(2011): Sevilla-Salamanca, VdlP
(2012): Salamanca-SdC, VdlP
(2014): SJpdP-Astorga
(2015): Astorga-SdC
(2016) May Pamplona-Moratinos; Sept.:Burgos-SdC
(2016): August/Sept: Camino San Olav (Burgos-Covarubbias), Burgos-Sarria
(2017): May: Portuguese; Sept: Pamplona-SdC
Yes, worrying reports about the Albergue and it is a bit out of the town. Sorry I can't report on what is happening exactly. The info about Tío Bartolo was from a local woman, but I have no proof to back that one up.
On a more positive note, I thoroughly recommend Restaurant Rosemari.

Extremadura for a simple gal like me means lovely people and great tapas!
It actually means "Very hard". Long distances, hot, lonely, but worth it. It is a fantastic Camino, but it needs more caution and preparation than f.ex. the Frances, which is basically a walk in the park.
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Hi Alex thanks for all your comments 😊. I have already walked from Mérida to Zamora. You are very right about it being different to the Francés, which when I walked it as my first Camino, I didn't experience as " a walk in the park" but more a " wow, this is great and I can do this" . But since having walked some other routes perhaps I have become as others on this forum , more open to other challenges and that too has been great. For me each Camino walk is unique, the VdlP is just one more.
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
What a difference a day makes! The walk yesterday from Montamarta to Granja de Moreruela was very hot, very straight, mainly close to N630 motorway and to be honest a bit boring and tedious. Stayed in Granja de Moreruela in Casa de tio Quico which was great because there was nowhere to get something to eat and we were able to get some supplies from the local shop.
Another thing to think about is a cuppa somewhere on the road from Montamarta. The only place is at Fontanillas de Castro 12.5 km after Montamarta (be sure to turn right when you come up towards the main road at Fontanillas to a petrol station, don't turn left on the Camino or you will miss your only cuppa until Granja de Moreruela).
Today we started off a bit earlier and once we turned left unto the Sanabres, I felt we had entered a different world - trees, landscape and then a wonderful but edgy walk up from the bridge at the river Elsa to a grand view point. Having said that I wouldn't have wanted to walk it in the rain or when it had been raining, as it was a bit narrow and steep at times! At 17km we stopped in Faramontanos and had a much welcomed café con leche.
Then the remaining 6km was again on a straight road but much more green and more interesting terrain than the previous 2 days. I am staying in Hotel de Robla which is okay 😐and my amigo is in the municapal Albergue which is about another 1 km out of town but a bit special with a communal meal.
Tomorrow Santa de Marta, because the much recommended Albergue at Santa Croya is now closed ☹
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese,Frances,Norte,Salvador/primitivo,Le puy, Inglés, CDM, Invierno, Fin/Mux, VDLP spring19
I am staying in Hotel de Robla which is okay 😐and my amigo is in the municapal Albergue which is about another 1 km out of town but a bit special with a communal meal. ☹
Hi Elaine
Wish I was back there now. (That’s where I finished in early May). (Tabara). I stayed in the ‘Albergue section’ beside the hotel de Robla .. we all ate in the hotel. The Albergue was fine btw.
My walking pal at that stage also stayed in the municipal Albergue on edge of town but ate with us in hotel.
Earlier that day we had definitely found the track ‘hairy’ (steep etc) - / is that the way you walked? many others had followed the road , but the arrows took us on the steeper track.
I’ll be following your comments with interest from hereon as I’m trying to gauge the difficulty of ‘re-starting’ at that point (ie with fitness back to zero).

Enjoy and buen camino
Annie
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Hi Annie, lovely to hear from you!
Well to be honest Hotel el Robla is okay but not great, but my friend had a wonderful time and meal at the municipal Albergue.
Today from Tabara after about 10k there is an option to go straight to Villanueva or right to Berceianos (?). We chose Villanueva and had a welcome coffee stop there. Then must admit it seemed a very long 8k to Santa Croya, where the lovely private Albergue Casa Anita is now closed and then next door to Santa Marta. The Albergue at Santa Marta only had one upper bunk left in 2 rooms for 12 peregrinos. It was lovely and clean and right next door to the gorgeous church. As I am not great with upper bunks, I chose to carry on on the main road for another 5k to Camarzana and Hotel Juan Manuel and shall set off for Rionegro tomorrow. I believe the Albergue takes 24 so hopefully there will be a few more beds available and I would love to have a meal in the mush talked about "Me Gusta Comer" restaurant.
 

Raggy

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Mozarabe Almeria (2017)
Cherhill to Canterbury - Pilgrims' Way (2018)
Via Francigena (2019)
Oh, wow, I had no memory of these plans. Great news, lucky you. As my deputized scout, 😄 I am particularly interested in hearing if you manage to avoid the bridge described in this post.


Gronze clearly shows the longer loop around to avoid it, https://www.gronze.com/etapa/puebla-sanabria/lubian (After Requejo and before Padornelo) but the OP of this thread had a terrible time of it. So be careful and by all means take the longer alternative.

And looking at Gronze, I see that the lovely babbling brook walk through Aciberos is now totally off the camino. This was done to avoid the AVE works. I hope the alternative into Lubián is nice.

Buen camino, @laineylainey! Abrazos from Laurie
Just walked the Requejo to Lubian stage today. Sitting outside Bar Restaurante Estrella to write this.
First five kilometres out of Requejo are on the Carretera before you turn left onto a Camino path that takes you under the curved bridges and along the old road.
The stage is mostly on asphalt surfaces, and often next to the fast road, but we didn’t need to go through the road tunnel described in the post above.
Camino arrows are few and far between. It‘s a shame that a few euros weren’t added to the budget for AVE construction to provide a few yellow arrows.
Lubian is delightful.
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Just arrived at Rionegro and what a splendid municipal Albergue. Two large dormitories and a lovely large sitting area. It is the best Albergue I have ever stayed in, but then I don't often stay in Albergues. There is another lovely 4 bed private Albergue 6 kilometres before Rionegro where you can also just pop in for tea or coffee. Photo attached.
We are now just opposite the Albergue in the world famous "Me Gusta Comer" I have been looking forward to this ever since last year when I started thinking about the route from Zamora to Santiago. And now I write after the most wonderful 10€ peregrino 4 course meal (11€ PLUS coffee and liqueurs), simply the best meal I have had on any Camino since 2012. And I got a photo of the maestro himself.
Just to stay or pass through Rionegro without this eating experience is in my opinion a wasted life opportunity!
I am a very happy peregrina at this moment.
Oh yes, the route today was lovely in my opinion, including over and around a magnificent Embalse.
 

Attachments

Elle Bieling

Elle Bieling, PilgrimageTraveler
Camino(s) past & future
Inglés, '14 '17 Finisterre, '14 '17 '18 Primitivo, '15 '18 Portuguese, '17, '18 San Salvador, '18
Just walked the Requejo to Lubian stage today. Sitting outside Bar Restaurante Estrella to write this.
First five kilometres out of Requejo are on the Carretera before you turn left onto a Camino path that takes you under the curved bridges and along the old road.
The stage is mostly on asphalt surfaces, and often next to the fast road, but we didn’t need to go through the road tunnel described in the post above.
Camino arrows are few and far between. It‘s a shame that a few euros weren’t added to the budget for AVE construction to provide a few yellow arrows.
Lubian is delightful.
Thank-you for this new information @Raggy! We are passing through in another month, and I am happy I don't have to worry about this section!
 

Mel Camino

Member
Camino(s) past & future
VdlP April/May 2018
We are now just opposite the Albergue in the world famous "Me Gusta Comer" I have been looking forward to this ever since last year when I started thinking about the route from Zamora to Santiago. And now I write after the most wonderful 10€ peregrino 4 course meal (11€ PLUS coffee and liqueurs), simply the best meal I have had on any Camino since 2012. And I got a photo of the maestro himself.
Just to stay or pass through Rionegro without this eating experience is in my opinion a wasted life opportunity!
I am a very happy peregrina at this moment.
Oh yes, the route today was lovely in my opinion, including over and around a magnificent Embalse.
Thank you for posting about Me Gusta Comer. It's one of my favorite memories of the VdlP, and I agree it's a wasted life opportunity to miss it! Buen provecho, buen camino!
 

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
'Portuguese,Frances,Norte,Salvador/primitivo,Le puy, Inglés, CDM, Invierno, Fin/Mux, VDLP spring19
Sorry meant to post photo of the lovely little Albergue 6 km before Rionegro. Meant to say the mattresses she has on the 4 beds are very special and look/feel very comfortable. Even if you don't stay there at least pop in for a cuppa.
It looks lovely Elaine., but like you, I would be heading the extra 6k to get closer to ‘ me gusta comer ‘ for dinner in the evening..
Buen camino
Annie
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
It looks lovely Elaine., but like you, I would be heading the extra 6k to get closer to ‘ me gusta comer ‘ for dinner in the evening..
Buen camino
Annie
Annie, we have just had a message from a couple of Australians Jim and John who stayed at the little Albergue last night. They said the beds were so comfortable they slept in!
Have to report the beds in the Albergue in Rionegro were very good as well!
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
A bit chilly in the morning but still a lovely start to the day on the road from Rionegro to ( for me) Entrepeñas to Casa las Peñas de Corredor, which has good reviews on Gronze. The walk to Mombuey was lovely about 10k where although it was Sunday there were 2 great panaderías open as well as a lovely supermarket just to the right of the marked Camino out of the town. The last part of the walk after San Salvador was a bit of a gradual climb but only because the afternoons get well above 25 ° but feel more like 30°!
We are both now staying at Entrepeñas ya the lovely Cada Rural of Domi as liste on Gronze. Two double rooms, 3 singles good kitchen with washing machine and nice lounge . Domi offers a supper or a lift to a restaurant, maybe Asturianos, but another opción would be toget food from Mombuey and cook, perfect! There is also a supply of wine soft drinks and beers with an honesty box. I cannot comment on the Albergue in Asturianos but think it either has 6 or 10 beds in one dormitory. Tomorrow off on a very short 18k to Puebla de Sanabria where there is a fiesta.
Just walked the Requejo to Lubian stage today. Sitting outside Bar Restaurante Estrella to write this.
First five kilometres out of Requejo are on the Carretera before you turn left onto a Camino path that takes you under the curved bridges and along the old road.
The stage is mostly on asphalt surfaces, and often next to the fast road, but we didn’t need to go through the road tunnel described in the post above.
Camino arrows are few and far between. It‘s a shame that a few euros weren’t added to the budget for AVE construction to provide a few yellow arrows.
Lubian is delightful.
@Raggy , my friend now has blísters and I am now wondering about the walk to Lubian tomorrow and if it is advisable for him to walk it. What's your thoughts, is it difficult or just asphalt?
Thanks Elaine
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
A pleasant 18k to Puebla de Sanabria today. Not as warm as previous days but lovely walk, I think.
Just getting ready to go and party as there is a Fiesta in the town tonight. My friend is staying at the private Albergue before the lovely bridge over the river and I am staying over the river on the Camino out of town on the Camino to Requejo. I have only once been on the Camino during a fiesta in Oviedo so tonight, I am looking forward to my feet dancing to a beat!!
Tomorrow may be a different beat!!😂😂
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
So today the temperature drops a little and the wind has a transadlantic bite. The fiesta in Puebla de Sanabria finished at 6am with a firework display. The walk to Requejo (10 or 11k?)was okay. After a good café con leche and a great bocadillo (recommend the Bar here), I was lucky to walk the road to Lubian with a lovely Spanish couple, who went we hit the asphalt road up from Requejo, reminded me that "with every Camino there is a sacrifice ", in this case not being able to walk the original Camino due to the AVE construction, but then at the top when now you simply go off the main road and follow a rough track, at the top you have the most marvellous view, including seeing now the 2 major roads and the road tunnels. Without all the modernisation, this must have been the most wonderful walk at some point?
Only advice is I agree with @Raggy , there needs to be a few more yellow arrows, especially at the end of the downward path when it joins a newish road. You need to turn left but only after a couple of metres do you see a confirming yellow arrow..
Then some more road walking but then a welcome 6 or 7 km respite walk away from the noise of the road and then through a small forest and then the most beautiful little bridge before the last upward ascent to Lubian which is such a lovely town. All in all a good day😊
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Forgot to mention a couple of things te accommodation. My friend tells me the Albergue is very fine and with mew showers. As for me I am holed up in the wonderful Casa Irene which has been owned for the past 2 years by a wonderful couple and completely refurbished and I would thoroughly recommend. Just had a cena of which included a gorgeous chocolate torte! I am lying down to write this !!! 😊😊
 

C clearly

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (2012, 2014, 2015, 2016). Seville-Astorga (Mar 2017). Mozarabe (Apr-May 2018)
Thanks for the updates, which will be very helpful when I am planning next spring's walk.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Forgot to mention a couple of things te accommodation. My friend tells me the Albergue is very fine and with mew showers. As for me I am holed up in the wonderful Casa Irene which has been owned for the past 2 years by a wonderful couple and completely refurbished and I would thoroughly recommend. Just had a cena of which included a gorgeous chocolate torte! I am lying down to write this !!! 😊😊
Oh, I remember Casa Irene, which was run by Irene herself when I was there. She was a very nice woman, very kind, widowed very young. She told me she had decided to stay in Lubián after her husband’s death and the Casa Rural was the best she could do. I was so sad when i saw several years later that the house was closed and she was on “baja médica.” I wonder if she is ok. But in any event, if you happen to see this before you leave, ask the new owners if they know about Irene. Thanks, Lainey!
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Oh, I remember Casa Irene, which was run by Irene herself when I was there. She was a very nice woman, very kind, widowed very young. She told me she had decided to stay in Lubián after her husband’s death and the Casa Rural was the best she could do. I was so sad when i saw several years later that the house was closed and she was on “baja médica.” I wonder if she is ok. But in any event, if you happen to see this before you leave, ask the new owners if they know about Irene. Thanks, Lainey!
Hi Laurie. I asked the new owners but apparently Irene died. But her paintings are still on the walls of the house. Just had a magnificent breakfast of omelette made with fresh hens eggs. Best Camino breakfast I have ever had. More than ready for the walk today over into Galicia!
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Today the walk was more pleasant ground wise, but steeper initially and then at the top when we saw the first sights of Galicia the temperature went up a couple of degrees and although very pleasant it seemed a bit harder. Galicia always reminds me of Ireland and so I love it!
Bit of a chore of a walk into town which made it feel longer. Staying myself in Hostal Madrilena but the boys are in the Albergue which looks a bit cold concrete wise but has a really lovely hospitalero and good showers and toilets.
Big long road of a town.
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Today, I was a little apprehensive about the 35k from A Gudiña to Laza as Gronze (to me) made it sound a bit of a chore.
I not saying the underfoot asphalt was anything I would prefer to do on a daily Camino, but for me that was compensated by the glorious Galician scenery and hills which are just magnificent! Though be organised and have supplies because there is nothing until a couple of welcome bars in Campobecerros 20k after A Gudiña. Also be prepared for a steep descent into this town on loose and rough stone. My toes are really complaining tonight. The view is of the new AVE railway construction so not the most inspiring sight!
The 15k after Campobecerros is lovely coming down the mountain and then the final 6k into Laza on a forest road.. The problem because of the heat were the flies!!!
Still Laza is fine, I am told the Albergue is fine. I am staying at Casa Blanco Conde, fab! The best bed I have ever slept on on a Camino . There is a free breakfast and the owner Conchi is wonderful. She gives you so much information and you must go to the waterfall she recommends, to the back of the Casa. Even though I was really tired and my feet were so sore, I felt so refreshed after standing in the stream by the waterfall, Think there must be some magical going on there🤗
We are eating at Picota which is recommended . It is 7pm and 30 degrees! Rain predicted for the weekend, hopefully that will put paid to the blicking flies!!
 

eamann

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés, Plata, Levante, Norte (part) and Primitivo, 2016 Catalan 2017 Lana (part) Madrid
God being willing I will have reached Zamora heading for Santiago via Puebla de Sanabria on approx. 30 Sept.. I appreciate therefore very much your comments, warnings and recommendations. Go n-éirí an bóthar leat!
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Picota restaurant last night was very good but we didn't realise you had to go upstairs for el menu de día, which is only served from 7.30pm to 9.15pm. 🤪
Today was a short walk because I didn't want another 34k up and down hill in this heat. The first 4 to 5 k from Laza is unfortunately along the road and then the steep but beautiful climb up for about 5k . Then at the top you turn right onto a new road with no hard shoulder but busy with lorries, which I didn't like at all. Then the famous bar at Alberguiera where there are hundreds of shells with pilgrims names and also very good boiled eggs!
Okay descent into Vilar de Barrio with a good Albergue and a very overpriced Casa rural. Notice it seems a bit more expensive here in the bars for food and drinks? Two shops.
Overall a short day but the amount of road walking is a bit tedious! Not as nice as yesterday but then tomorrow is also a short ( only 14k day!), so perhaps it will be more interesting!
 

Bradypus

Antediluvian
Camino(s) past & future
Too many and too often!
Even though I was really tired and my feet were so sore, I felt so refreshed after standing in the stream by the waterfall, Think there must be some magical going on there🤗
If you have the time to spare then you might like to try bathing in the hot springs when you reach Ourense. Great for easing the aches from the system :)
 
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (Apr-May 2019); planning Camino Sanabres (Oct 2019)
Hi Elaine, I am following your daily updates and comments by others with great interest as I start from Granja de Moreruela on 9th October. I just wondered how you were getting on for water supplies? Are there many fuentes or are you having to shop for it when you can? Buen Camino!
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Hi
Hi Elaine, I am following your daily updates and comments by others with great interest as I start from Granja de Moreruela on 9th October. I just wondered how you were getting on for water supplies? Are there many fuentes or are you having to shop for it when you can? Buen Camino!
Hi there, glad to hear about your upcoming vdlp walk, you will love it!
As for fuentes no they are not very frequent and I always carry 2 bottles with me. I don't buy water though as I find the normal tap water in the Albergues or Casa Rurales very good. I will take a note to mention fuentes from now on. In fact there was one this morning leaving Vila de Barrio.
Buen Camino
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Today was easy and only 14k. The walk out of Vilar de Barrio was longer than I was expecting but very pleasant. Then a long strrtch of straight road. I think it must be partridge shooting season in Galicia and it being a Saturday we met lots of men with guns with gun dogs, shooting ( men not dogs!) in nearby fields. The dogs were bouncy, curious and friendly. The men were friendly as well, even so the sight of so many shot guns/ rifles was a little disconcerting and I tried to ignore the dead birds hooked to their belts.
Lovely little bar in Bobadela and also further along another fuente( 2 in one day!).
The Albergue is about 500m before the town of Xunqueira de Ambia and looks good with kitchen and 2 dorms of 10 or 12 beds each. I am staying in town, Casa Tomas which offers twin rooms and shared rooms. Good bar, garden, terrace and menu el día.
It's warm still but starting to rain as predicted. 😐
 

Raggy

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Mozarabe Almeria (2017)
Cherhill to Canterbury - Pilgrims' Way (2018)
Via Francigena (2019)
For breakfast in Xunqueira tomorrow I strongly recommend that you go to the Bar a Copas - it’s hidden behind the little chapel that you see to the left as you head out of town. There you will find a warm welcome, freshly baked pastries (or toast if you prefer) and a good coffee - everything, in fact, that is lacking from the bar which is situated directly next to the Camino with the grapevine over the terrace.
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
@Raggy , that is perfect advice, thank you. As you know there are a number of bars here and we plan to set off tomorrow about 7am. Know exactly the road and the chapel you mention as we went down today to check out the route for tomorrow 😊
 
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (Apr-May 2019); planning Camino Sanabres (Oct 2019)
Hi

Hi there, glad to hear about your upcoming vdlp walk, you will love it!
As for fuentes no they are not very frequent and I always carry 2 bottles with me. I don't buy water though as I find the normal tap water in the Albergues or Casa Rurales very good. I will take a note to mention fuentes from now on. In fact there was one this morning leaving Vila de Barrio.
Buen Camino
Many thanks Elaine. Hope it cools down a bit for you without too much rain! BC, Colin
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Started off at 7am so too early for the breakfast recommendation of @Raggy unfortunately. However after about 3.5 k walked into a very welcoming cafe on the road for a welcome cuppa and tostada.
The walk to Ourense is flat but all road but having said that there are loads of little cafes and a couple of places to sample fresh pulpo!
Be careful though of camino into the outskirts of Ourense, there are some dodgy signs. After a long right hand Avenue that goes uphill look for a small garage on the right on top of the hill and cross the road to the left and then take a right. You will then follow the main road down to the first main town roundabout. It's a bit confusing. Then it is a long straight slog into town. Just before what looks like a bridge cross to the right down some steps and bear right past a lovely fuente, more steps straight up and the Albergue is on the left. The Cathedral is less than 5 mins away from the Albergue. I believe there us another Albergue?
Raining tonight. If you love pulpo this is a town to eat it! And the cathedral is massive . Tourist day tomorrow, train and thermal baths, bring it on!!
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Started off at 7am so too early for the breakfast recommendation of @Raggy unfortunately. However after about 3.5 k walked into a very welcoming cafe on the road for a welcome cuppa and tostada.
The walk to Ourense is flat but all road but having said that there are loads of little cafes and a couple of places to sample fresh pulpo!
Be careful though of camino into the outskirts of Ourense, there are some dodgy signs. After a long right hand Avenue that goes uphill look for a small garage on the right on top of the hill and cross the road to the left and then take a right. You will then follow the main road down to the first main town roundabout. It's a bit confusing. Then it is a long straight slog into town. Just before what looks like a bridge cross to the right down some steps and bear right past a lovely fuente, more steps straight up and the Albergue is on the left. The Cathedral is less than 5 mins away from the Albergue. I believe there us another Albergue?
Raining tonight. If you love pulpo this is a town to eat it! And the cathedral is massive . Tourist day tomorrow, train and thermal baths, bring it on!!
Oh, no!!! You didn’t see the posts about the lovely river walk into Ourense. I am so sorry not to have brought this to your attention, @laineylainey

But for anyone else, there is a very nice alternative to the industrial slog into town. Details here:

 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Oh, no!!! You didn’t see the posts about the lovely river walk into Ourense. I am so sorry not to have brought this to your attention, @laineylainey

But for anyone else, there is a very nice alternative to the industrial slog into town. Details here:

Thanks Laurie, so glad you mentioned this for others doing the walk to Ourense. The Seixablo suburb is lovely with the most gorgeous Church.
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
A question to you Vdlplaters, tomorrow it's Ourense to Cea. I notice on Gronze there are 2 routes, which one do you recommend?
 
Camino(s) past & future
CF 2015, CPo 2016, VDLP[Sev-Các] 2017, VDLP[Các-Sal] 2018
I can help you on that! I took the “right” route in May and the “left” route just this last week. Both involve a steep climb, there’s just no avoiding it out of Orense as it’s so low down. The left route (which goes past the train station) is initially fairly level along a VERY busy road traffic wise. After the steep climb the surroundings were nicer (or my taste), a mix of quiet roads and forest paths plus the bonus of Casa Cesar.
But I would much prefer the other route - much quieter traffic wise.... the only disadvantage for me would be lack of Casa Cesar or really many places to stop for a coffee (though from memory I definitely did stop somewhere maybe about mid way for coffee and it was on the camino).

Hope this is of help!
 
Camino(s) past & future
CF 2015, CPo 2016, VDLP[Sev-Các] 2017, VDLP[Các-Sal] 2018
Sorry I forgot to add. I think it helps to stick to the right hand side of the road when you go over the Puente Romano... the arrows are more obvious I think, especially if you want to take the “right” route
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
The road to Cea is definitely a path of 2 different experiences. We ended up on the left hand route as described by @SioCamino probably because we didn't see the other route! Initially 5k out of town and then a fairly ( for me "very") steep uphill asphalt climb on a quite busy road. I think it would be easier if it wasn't so warm.
Then it became a different walk all together with some welcome shade through some forest walks and a few places to stop and have a cuppa.
In Cea tonight. When you see a bar on the left coming into town take a note that's the only place to have a meal at night. The Albergue is after that and is on the left as you follow signs into the town. I had a great lunch menu del dia in the Plaza Major. The casa rural Manoso is very good.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
The road to Cea is definitely a path of 2 different experiences. We ended up on the left hand route as described by @SioCamino probably because we didn't see the other route! Initially 5k out of town and then a fairly ( for me "very") steep uphill asphalt climb on a quite busy road. I think it would be easier if it wasn't so warm.
Then it became a different walk all together with some welcome shade through some forest walks and a few places to stop and have a cuppa.
In Cea tonight. When you see a bar on the left coming into town take a note that's the only place to have a meal at night. The Albergue is after that and is on the left as you follow signs into the town. I had a great lunch menu del dia in the Plaza Major. The casa rural Manoso is very good.
I have walked out of Ourense two or three times, and like you I never saw the right hand route. I remember leaving very early and walking past the Ourense bus barn. As we walked by, a steady stream of buses was leaving, and nearly every driver gave us a big honk and a wave. It was a very nice send-off.

I had great pulpo in Cea once, not far from the Plaza Mayor. Lovely atmosphere in that little place.

Can’t believe you are in Cea already! Are you heading to the monastery?
 

gschmidl

sator arepo tenet opera rotas
Camino(s) past & future
Kumano Kodo (11/2018), Camino Sanabres (4/2019)
You can start on the right hand route and cross over to the left (which adds about 5km, I think), which is recommended by the German guide book because the scenery on the left is supposedly nicer. We ended up staying on the right hand route and it was so nice that we were having a hard time imagining how the other would be even better...
 
Camino(s) past & future
CF 2015, CPo 2016, VDLP[Sev-Các] 2017, VDLP[Các-Sal] 2018
Hi, not sure how you are planned to break up your stages for the rest of the way to Santiago but I stayed in a few places I would recommend. As I had walked to Oseira last time I took the other route from Cea to Castro Dozón. I walked past that town to Estacion Lalín where I stayed in a Ponte Restaurante. I found the details from @SYates detailed notes on this forum. I got such a warm welcome. Room with laundry breakfast and bathroom was €15. Super - simple, old fashioned but spotless.
I didn’t want three days in a row of 28km+ so I stayed in Albergue Reina Lupa on my last night before Santiago. It leaves you around 10k to walk in which was lovely. Fabulous albergue new and comfortable, very luxurious for me as I was the only one there ! You can eat in the restaurant next door (same lovely owners). It’s between Lestedo/Boqueixón and A Susana only a very short way off the camino.
Buen camino and enjoy!
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Hi, not sure how you are planned to break up your stages for the rest of the way to Santiago but I stayed in a few places I would recommend. As I had walked to Oseira last time I took the other route from Cea to Castro Dozón. I walked past that town to Estacion Lalín where I stayed in a Ponte Restaurante. I found the details from @SYates detailed notes on this forum. I got such a warm welcome. Room with laundry breakfast and bathroom was €15. Super - simple, old fashioned but spotless.
I didn’t want three days in a row of 28km+ so I stayed in Albergue Reina Lupa on my last night before Santiago. It leaves you around 10k to walk in which was lovely. Fabulous albergue new and comfortable, very luxurious for me as I was the only one there ! You can eat in the restaurant next door (same lovely owners). It’s between Lestedo/Boqueixón and A Susana only a very short way off the camino.
Buen camino and enjoy!
Thanks @SioCamino , I didn't know there was another alternative in Estación de Lalín where we are now staying with what feels like a crowd of other peregrinos from France Denmark and Spain. We are at the Taberna de Venta which is super but Ponte Restaurant seems a good alternative. Agree with you about splitting the days getting into San9 now. The weather is still very hot mid day and this part of Galacia has many hills, decente and asphalt, which my feet are starting after 14 days to complain about a bit!
Plan now is tomorrow Banaderia , then Outeira or for me a luxurious stop at Lestado but will definitely look at the option of the Albergue Reina Lupa!
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
So due to the continuing lovely weather and the amount of asphalt walking, we decided not to take the planned Oseira right hand route from Cea to Castro Dozon, and instead went let and continued on to Estación Lalín where we are staying at the Taberna de Venta. Good rooms and good food but would check out @SioCamino suggestion.
Lots of little towns after Cea. In fact a out 1 or 2 k just out of Cea is a little Alojamiento and bar/cafe which might be an option to staying in Cea?
After a climb to Castro Dozon, there's a fair bit of road walking off and on. But then it is quite nice with some nice paths and and yes some fuentes along the way. A special Pegerino one about 3 or 4 k from Estación de Lalín.
 

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laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Best breakfast ever in the great Taberna de Venta. All round one of the friendliest, best value places I have stayed on this trip and many others. Just a word of caution, I know I mentioned @SioCamino place Ponte Restaurant which I now realise is just over the road from Taberna de Venta but it looks shut. There were no lights on last night or this morning?
The walk today was okay but a early bit along a busy lorry packed road. No real climbs and some welcome shade this afternoon. Silleda is a big town and our very expensive snack and drink stop ( expensive compared to what we have been paying up to now!) was for me a bit of a reminder of how close we are to Santiago perhaps?
We are staying in Bandeira, 2 private hostels and a good albergue. Had a huge lunch of gammon, cabbage, potatoes and chickpeas!
Starting to feel a bit sad as we approach Santiago and I know this journey ends. I have never been a big Santiago fan but I am treating myself to a visit to the renovated Pórtico de la Gloria ( many thanks to @peregrina2000 for the suggestion).
Actually there is a wonderful similar Pórtico in the cathedral of Ourense.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2006) Portugues(2013)
San Salvador (2017) Ingles (2019)
Best breakfast ever in the great Taberna de Venta. All round one of the friendliest, best value places I have stayed on this trip and many others. Just a word of caution, I know I mentioned @SioCamino place Ponte Restaurant which I now realise is just over the road from Taberna de Venta but it looks shut. There were no lights on last night or this morning?
The walk today was okay but a early bit along a busy lorry packed road. No real climbs and some welcome shade this afternoon. Silleda is a big town and our very expensive snack and drink stop ( expensive compared to what we have been paying up to now!) was for me a bit of a reminder of how close we are to Santiago perhaps?
We are staying in Bandeira, 2 private hostels and a good albergue. Had a huge lunch of gammon, cabbage, potatoes and chickpeas!
Starting to feel a bit sad as we approach Santiago and I know this journey ends. I have never been a big Santiago fan but I am treating myself to a visit to the renovated Pórtico de la Gloria ( many thanks to @peregrina2000 for the suggestion).
Actually there is a wonderful similar Pórtico in the cathedral of Ourense.
Sounds almost like a typical Irish Sunday dinner! I can recommend the Portico tour. I have my photos from 2006, when we arrived and did the thing of putting our hands in... but this tour is worth it. Thanks for your posts, really enjoying them. It does have to end though, and you do know that... safe endings, and return to ....
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Sounds almost like a typical Irish Sunday dinner! I can recommend the Portico tour. I have my photos from 2006, when we arrived and did the thing of putting our hands in... but this tour is worth it. Thanks for your posts, really enjoying them. It does have to end though, and you do know that... safe endings, and return to ....
@kirkie Yes it was a very good Irish lunch!
And yes, it ends and I am glad but a bit "wish it could just be a couple more days" feeling today. It has been so fantastic. Not as pretty as Mérida to Zamora I seem to remember but more memorable in some other ways. For the early morning smiles and "buenos días " in little cafés where we went for a much needed café con leche or té menta, when still dark outside. The shepherds with goats, the men with friendly gun dogs, the gorgeous expanse of Galicia. Just the VdlP really, always a surprise even on the straight roads. But I have only met one woman walking in the last 3 weeks, something I have never experienced before and I have sort of missed that....😊
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Lovely short walk today to Lestedo about 4 k further on from Outeiro. About 5k out of Bandeira is a lovely looking private Albergue at Dornelas. I think they provide evening meals as there isn't anything else in the place.
Also thought the modern and big Albergue at Outeiro looked impressive.
Weather really changed but the walk was beautiful. My poor companion has suffered with blisters throughout the trip ( newish boots) and today has an infection on his foot so at Ponte Ulla he took a taxi to Santiago where I will see him tomorrow.
Thanks @NualaOC for recommending restaurant Casa Marcelo. We are going to have a farewell dinner there tomorrow evening!
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Lovely short walk today to Lestedo about 4 k further on from Outeiro. About 5k out of Bandeira is a lovely looking private Albergue at Dornelas. I think they provide evening meals as there isn't anything else in the place.
Also thought the modern and big Albergue at Outeiro looked impressive.
Weather really changed but the walk was beautiful. My poor companion has suffered with blisters throughout the trip ( newish boots) and today has an infection on his foot so at Ponte Ulla he took a taxi to Santiago where I will see him tomorrow.
Thanks @NualaOC for recommending restaurant Casa Marcelo. We are going to have a farewell dinner there tomorrow evening!
Oooh, I want to hear all about the meal! I have often walked by on my way to cheaper and less highly touted places.

Can’t believe it is ending for you @laineylainey. Luckily for this armchair camino addict, we’ve got some members currently on the Catalán, the Olvidado, and soon C Clearly will be on the Vasco! Buen camino and abrazos from Laurie
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2006) Portugues(2013)
San Salvador (2017) Ingles (2019)
Lovely short walk today to Lestedo about 4 k further on from Outeiro. About 5k out of Bandeira is a lovely looking private Albergue at Dornelas. I think they provide evening meals as there isn't anything else in the place.
Also thought the modern and big Albergue at Outeiro looked impressive.
Weather really changed but the walk was beautiful. My poor companion has suffered with blisters throughout the trip ( newish boots) and today has an infection on his foot so at Ponte Ulla he took a taxi to Santiago where I will see him tomorrow.
Thanks @NualaOC for recommending restaurant Casa Marcelo. We are going to have a farewell dinner there tomorrow evening!
Sorry you are finished! Safe and happy returns. Thanks for sharing all.
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Oooh, I want to hear all about the meal! I have often walked by on my way to cheaper and less highly touted places.

Can’t believe it is ending for you @laineylainey. Luckily for this armchair camino addict, we’ve got some members currently on the Catalán, the Olvidado, and soon C Clearly will be on the Vasco! Buen camino and abrazos from Laurie
Thanks Laurie, and now you have given me ideas about my next Camino, Catalán, Olvidado, Vasco...... so many choices 😊😊
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Last post. Staying at Casa Casal in Lestedo listed on Gronze . Just had the most wonderful dinner of fresh fish with vegetables from the garden. Great place and, I think, a good peregrino rate. The bed is the most comfortable I have ever laid my weary Camino body on!
 

Raggy

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Mozarabe Almeria (2017)
Cherhill to Canterbury - Pilgrims' Way (2018)
Via Francigena (2019)
Oooh, I want to hear all about the meal! I have often walked by on my way to cheaper and less highly touted places.
I had dinner at the Dornelas albergue - Two courses with wine. Served to all guests as a communal affair. I think they charged €10. First course was an apparently bottomless maccheroni with a lovely homemade ragu. I had at least three servings. Second course was tortilla / frittata with salad. I don’t recall that there was dessert. I might be forgetting something - We had been feasting on the home grown figs all afternoon.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
I had dinner at the Dornelas albergue - Two courses with wine. Served to all guests as a communal affair. I think they charged €10. First course was an apparently bottomless maccheroni with a lovely homemade ragu. I had at least three servings. Second course was tortilla / frittata with salad. I don’t recall that there was dessert. I might be forgetting something - We had been feasting on the home grown figs all afternoon.
I had hoped to stay there this past summer but we learned that the owners had gone back to Italy to get married. 🥰 🥰 🥰
 

VNwalking

Wandering in big circles
Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
San Olav/CF ('16)
Baztanés/CF ('17)
Ingles ('18)
Vasco/CF/Invierno ('19)
I didn’t want three days in a row of 28km+ so I stayed in Albergue Reina Lupa on my last night before Santiago. It leaves you around 10k to walk in which was lovely. Fabulous albergue new and comfortable, very luxurious for me as I was the only one there ! You can eat in the restaurant next door (same lovely owners). It’s between Lestedo/Boqueixón and A Susana only a very short way off the camino.
Is this in the Invierno guide, @peregrina2000 ?
About 5k out of Bandeira is a lovely looking private Albergue at Dornelas.
It's a special albergue in a very quiet place. So much nicer than Bandeira.

Short walk and buen camino tomorrow, @laineylainey! Thanks for these posts - you've re-kindled my interest in the Sanabres. 🙏
 

laineylainey

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
started in 2012, hooked ever since.
Oooh, I want to hear all about the meal! I have often walked by on my way to cheaper and less highly touted places.

Can’t believe it is ending for you @laineylainey. Luckily for this armchair camino addict, we’ve got some members currently on the Catalán, the Olvidado, and soon C Clearly will be on the Vasco! Buen camino and abrazos from Laurie
Laurie, how long is the tour round Portico de Gloria? I ask because I have a 10.30am ticket and was wondering if I could then go to the Pilgrims mass at 12noon in the San Francisco church.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Laurie, how long is the tour round Portico de Gloria? I ask because I have a 10.30am ticket and was wondering if I could then go to the Pilgrims mass at 12noon in the San Francisco church.
Hi, laineylainey,
The tour is about 45 minutes if I remember right, so you will have plenty of time. Congratulations on your camino! Abrazos from Laurie
 
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances (Apr-May 2019); planning Camino Sanabres (Oct 2019)
Congratulations Elaine and thanks again for sharing your experiences. Pretty sure I'll be digging back into this thread for information once I'm underway in a couple of weeks!
 

P Rat

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino VDLP april (april2019)
What a difference a day makes! The walk yesterday from Montamarta to Granja de Moreruela was very hot, very straight, mainly close to N630 motorway and to be honest a bit boring and tedious. Stayed in Granja de Moreruela in Casa de tio Quico which was great because there was nowhere to get something to eat and we were able to get some supplies from the local shop.
Another thing to think about is a cuppa somewhere on the road from Montamarta. The only place is at Fontanillas de Castro 12.5 km after Montamarta (be sure to turn right when you come up towards the main road at Fontanillas to a petrol station, don't turn left on the Camino or you will miss your only cuppa until Granja de Moreruela).
Today we started off a bit earlier and once we turned left unto the Sanabres, I felt we had entered a different world - trees, landscape and then a wonderful but edgy walk up from the bridge at the river Elsa to a grand view point. Having said that I wouldn't have wanted to walk it in the rain or when it had been raining, as it was a bit narrow and steep at times! At 17km we stopped in Faramontanos and had a much welcomed café con leche.
Then the remaining 6km was again on a straight road but much more green and more interesting terrain than the previous 2 days. I am staying in Hotel de Robla which is okay 😐and my amigo is in the municapal Albergue which is about another 1 km out of town but a bit special with a communal meal.
Tomorrow Santa de Marta, because the much recommended Albergue at Santa Croya is now closed ☹
We remember that part as one of the best and most awesome parts after Salamanca! Very fond memories
 

Caron

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino de Santiago 2018
Hi. Thank you for your detailed updates. I have just made heaps of notes for my planned walk early next year. I noted you stayed in a lot of Casa Rurals. Did you pre book these or just turn up? Thanks.
 

P Rat

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino VDLP april (april2019)
Just arrived at Rionegro and what a splendid municipal Albergue. Two large dormitories and a lovely large sitting area. It is the best Albergue I have ever stayed in, but then I don't often stay in Albergues. There is another lovely 4 bed private Albergue 6 kilometres before Rionegro where you can also just pop in for tea or coffee. Photo attached.
We are now just opposite the Albergue in the world famous "Me Gusta Comer" I have been looking forward to this ever since last year when I started thinking about the route from Zamora to Santiago. And now I write after the most wonderful 10€ peregrino 4 course meal (11€ PLUS coffee and liqueurs), simply the best meal I have had on any Camino since 2012. And I got a photo of the maestro himself.
Just to stay or pass through Rionegro without this eating experience is in my opinion a wasted life opportunity!
I am a very happy peregrina at this moment.
Oh yes, the route today was lovely in my opinion, including over and around a magnificent Embalse.
Couldn’t agree more! Michelin star 🌟 on the Camino. Owner/chef just LOVES his job. We still talk about that day...
 

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    Votes: 22 2.0%
  • August

    Votes: 25 2.2%
  • September

    Votes: 322 28.8%
  • October

    Votes: 140 12.5%
  • November

    Votes: 14 1.3%
  • December

    Votes: 6 0.5%
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