Search over 55.000 Camino Questions

A donation to the forum removes ads for you, and supports Ivar in his work running it


Advertisement
Create your own ad
Have a camino related project that you are interested in promoting on the forum? Create your own ad right now.
Peaceable Projects Inc.
Peaceable Projects Inc. is a U.S.-based non-profit group that brings the vast resources of the wide world together with the ongoing needs of the people who live, work, and travel on the Camino de Santiago pilgrim trail network in Spain.

Basilica de San Isidoro in León and Stupid Stupid Me

scruffy1

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Holy Year from Pamplona 2010, SJPP 2011, Lisbon 2012, Le Puy 2013, Vezelay (partial watch this space!) 2014; 2015 Toulouse-Puenta la Reina (Arles)
In my opinion, the most amazing church before SdC must be San Isidoro in León. There is a tour usually in Spanish occasionally in English which should be taken the first time around. The church decoration is all Romanesque from the statues, the column capitals, to the gorgeous mind-boggling frescoes. It is also possible, or was anyway, to wander through by yourself – a better idea if you have already been there or have a good understanding of the Romanesque. The reception area offers postcards, small picture books, some history material, and books – the most relevant and affordable the most beautiful being “San Isidoro in Leon - the Royal Pantheon: The Advent of Romanesque Architecture, Sculpture, Painting” by Antonio Vinayo Gonzalez published by Esplendores del Arte Edilesa. Something I purchased years ago. Price 14€. Also available in German. Moving on to stupid stupid me…the plates in the book are absolutely amazing in their detail and beauty – I’ve often looked through the book – just to remember. Today pulled it down again and made a startling discovery, all the pages showing the plates are double and sealed at the edge like old uncut books! There are twice as many plates as I have ever seen and I never knew! Wish me luck I’m off to try and open them! 1610961769090.png
 
Camino Socks
Browse the Camino Socks collection on the forum shop
Create your own ad
Have a camino related project that you are interested in promoting on the forum? Create your own ad right now.

mspath

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances, autumn/winter; 2004, 2005-2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015
Scruffy,

Lucky you to have found those pages!
I ,too, fondly remember the impact of those magnificent frescoes.

From my blog of October 30, 2004,
.
'..Another important religious building was the Basilica de San Isidoro. Dating from the 11th century the walls and low ceiling are covered with Romanesque frescoes in muted tones; the biblical figures are weighty and outlined in a nervous black line. Memorable."
 
Last edited:

FRM

How do you walk the Camino? One step at a time.
Year of past OR future Camino
O'Cebreiro to Santiago (2014)
Pamplona to Sahagun (March 2019)
Sahagun to O’Cebreiro (March 2020)
A truly beautiful church. The frescoes are beyond impressive. The day I was there there were only Spanish language tours. They provided a sheet of paper with the highlights in English. The tour took us to areas of the Church not typically accessible. Their library had some amazing illuminated manuscripts. A highlight of my 2 days in Leon.

frm
 
Last edited:
John Brierley Camino Frances Guide
This guide is one of the ones that has been around for over 15 years. Updated yearly. Please read the reviews.
Silver Oxide Camino de Santiago pendent
Camino de Santiago pendant that has a shell on the front, and "Camino de Santiago" engraved on the back. Comes with a black cord. Pendent is slightly larger than a 50 euro cent coin, about 25mm.

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Love that place! They call it the “Sistine Chapel of Romanesque” and that is not too hyperbolic, IMO. Enjoy, Scruffy.

I know the frescoes in the Panteón de los Reyes are the main attraction, but the Romanesque church itself is very nice. If I remember correctly, the tour does not take you through the church, and many people don’t go in. And there is a small museum attached, also worth a visit. It has an enamel box from Limoges that I think is just stunning.

Interesting to see that the official website gives the history and tells us how Napoleon’s troops used the church and the pantheon for stables. Thankfully, a lot survived.
 

ukjohn99

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances 2009 St Jean to Santiago
Thank you. It sounds marvelous but, sadly, I didn't visit it when I was in Leon. I will make sure that I do next time. In the meantime I've ordered a second hand copy of the San Isidoro in Leon book from Amazon UK so at least I can read about it and enjoy the photos.



In my opinion, the most amazing church before SdC must be San Isidoro in León. There is a tour usually in Spanish occasionally in English which should be taken the first time around. The church decoration is all Romanesque from the statues, the column capitals, to the gorgeous mind-boggling frescoes. It is also possible, or was anyway, to wander through by yourself – a better idea if you have already been there or have a good understanding of the Romanesque. The reception area offers postcards, small picture books, some history material, and books – the most relevant and affordable the most beautiful being “San Isidoro in Leon - the Royal Pantheon: The Advent of Romanesque Architecture, Sculpture, Painting” by Antonio Vinayo Gonzalez published by Esplendores del Arte Edilesa. Something I purchased years ago. Price 14€. Also available in German. Moving on to stupid stupid me…the plates in the book are absolutely amazing in their detail and beauty – I’ve often looked through the book – just to remember. Today pulled it down again and made a startling discovery, all the pages showing the plates are double and sealed at the edge like old uncut books! There are twice as many plates as I have ever seen and I never knew! Wish me luck I’m off to try and open them! View attachment 91420
 

Albertagirl

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances (2015); Aragones-Frances (2016); VdlP-Sanabres (2017); Madrid-Frances-Invierno (2019)Levante
When I am in Leon, on three caminos so far, I always spend a couple of nights there and make a point of visiting San Isidoro. It feels to me like a parish church, somehow with an intimate feel that I do not get in the Cathedral in Leon (or the Cathedral in Santiago). I am trying to find our more about Romanesque churches in Spain. But I think that this feeling for me has more to do with my experience of being there to pray with the local people, who seem at home there. I have received a pilgrim blessing there. It is a place of ordinary prayer and Christian community. I look forward to returning there someday.
 

camino07

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances x5, Portuguese VdlP12, Sanabres, Aragones, Norte,Salvador,Primitivo, VdlP 17,Madrid18Norte
I have been to the Pilgrim mass there a couple of times and we were taken out to the front for a blessing and given a small memento. Great start to the San Salvador/Primitivo.
 
Donation to the Forum
A donation to this forum helps it continue to exists and also removes all ads for you.
Camino Maps
A collection of Camino Maps from the Camino Forum Store

OZAJ

New Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Mozarabe/VdlP/Sanabres (2008) Norte (2009) Vezelay/Frances/Salvador/Primitivo (2010) etc.
And the Holy Grail in the museum ... maybe.
 

NorthernLight

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Le Puy to Santiago via the Frances 2012-2013. EPW2015
Aragonese & Frances 2016
Burgos to Muxia 2017
The museum attached is my favourite. They have a collection of ancient books and codices that makes me tremble in awe. The star attraction is a Visigothic-Mozarabic Bible that was the work of Florencius and Sancho in the year 960.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
The museum attached is my favourite. They have a collection of ancient books and codices that makes me tremble in awe. The star attraction is a Visigothic-Mozarabic Bible that was the work of Florencius and Sancho in the year 960.
I don’t remember the manuscript, but I found a website with lots of nice pictures if you scroll down over on the right under where it says “Galería.”


@NorthernLight, how is it displayed?
 

NorthernLight

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Le Puy to Santiago via the Frances 2012-2013. EPW2015
Aragonese & Frances 2016
Burgos to Muxia 2017

Albertagirl

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Frances (2015); Aragones-Frances (2016); VdlP-Sanabres (2017); Madrid-Frances-Invierno (2019)Levante
I don’t remember the manuscript, but I found a website with lots of nice pictures if you scroll down over on the right under where it says “Galería.”

This is an amazing website. I hope that I shall be able to find my way around in it before I leave for the Levante in the fall. I already discovered, quite by chance, information on what to see in Toledo and in the area of San Martin de Valdeigleisias on the Levante. I don't know yet what I shall see there in the way of pre-romanesque iglesias. I think that it may be on the prerromanico website because of the castle. I shall try to find the time to see what is mentioned on this website for locations along the Levante.
 
Silver Oxide Camino de Santiago pendent
Camino de Santiago pendant that has a shell on the front, and "Camino de Santiago" engraved on the back. Comes with a black cord. Pendent is slightly larger than a 50 euro cent coin, about 25mm.
Peaceable Projects Inc.
Peaceable Projects Inc. is a U.S.-based non-profit group that brings the vast resources of the wide world together with the ongoing needs of the people who live, work, and travel on the Camino de Santiago pilgrim trail network in Spain.

Rick of Rick and Peg

Veteran Member
Year of past OR future Camino
Us:Camino Frances, 2015 Me:Catalan/Aragonese, 2019
If memory serves, it was opened at a random page and under glass. But honestly I don’t trust that memory. I recall the feeling well though. There was one room full of the old tomes
It was an impressive room but I had to pass through it quickly because I got to the museum shorty before closing and the pantheon was my priority. However, we got to see many illuminated manuscripts on display at the museum attached to the cathedral in nearby Astorga.
 

Mycroft

Active Member
In my opinion, the most amazing church before SdC must be San Isidoro in León. There is a tour usually in Spanish occasionally in English which should be taken the first time around. The church decoration is all Romanesque from the statues, the column capitals, to the gorgeous mind-boggling frescoes. It is also possible, or was anyway, to wander through by yourself – a better idea if you have already been there or have a good understanding of the Romanesque. The reception area offers postcards, small picture books, some history material, and books – the most relevant and affordable the most beautiful being “San Isidoro in Leon - the Royal Pantheon: The Advent of Romanesque Architecture, Sculpture, Painting” by Antonio Vinayo Gonzalez published by Esplendores del Arte Edilesa. Something I purchased years ago. Price 14€. Also available in German. Moving on to stupid stupid me…the plates in the book are absolutely amazing in their detail and beauty – I’ve often looked through the book – just to remember. Today pulled it down again and made a startling discovery, all the pages showing the plates are double and sealed at the edge like old uncut books! There are twice as many plates as I have ever seen and I never knew! Wish me luck I’m off to try and open them! View attachment 91420
Let us know what you find!
 

Similar threads

Camino Conversations

Camino Conversations

Forum Rules

Forum Rules

Forum Donation

Forum Donation
For those with no forum account, it is possible to donate here as well. Thank you for your support! Ivar

Follow Casa Ivar on Instagram

Most downloaded Resources

When is the best time to walk?

  • January

    Votes: 16 1.2%
  • February

    Votes: 10 0.7%
  • March

    Votes: 60 4.3%
  • April

    Votes: 207 14.9%
  • May

    Votes: 337 24.3%
  • June

    Votes: 100 7.2%
  • July

    Votes: 27 1.9%
  • August

    Votes: 29 2.1%
  • September

    Votes: 399 28.8%
  • October

    Votes: 171 12.3%
  • November

    Votes: 19 1.4%
  • December

    Votes: 10 0.7%

Camino Forum Store

Camino Forum Store
Top