Basilica de San Isidoro in León and Stupid Stupid Me

[scruffy1]

In my opinion, the most amazing church before SdC must be San Isidoro in León. There is a tour usually in Spanish occasionally in English which should be taken the first time around. The church decoration is all Romanesque from the statues, the column capitals, to the gorgeous mind-boggling frescoes. It is also possible, or was anyway, to wander through by yourself – a better idea if you have already been there or have a good understanding of the Romanesque. The reception area offers postcards, small picture books, some history material, and books – the most relevant and affordable the most beautiful being “San Isidoro in Leon - the Royal Pantheon: The Advent of Romanesque Architecture, Sculpture, Painting” by Antonio Vinayo Gonzalez published by Esplendores del Arte Edilesa. Something I purchased years ago. Price 14€. Also available in German. Moving on to stupid stupid me…the plates in the book are absolutely amazing in their detail and beauty – I’ve often looked through the book – just to remember. Today pulled it down again and made a startling discovery, all the pages showing the plates are double and sealed at the edge like old uncut books! There are twice as many plates as I have ever seen and I never knew! Wish me luck I’m off to try and open them!

 

[mspath]

Scruffy,

Lucky you to have found those pages!
I ,too, fondly remember the impact of those magnificent frescoes.

From my blog of October 30, 2004,
.
'..Another important religious building was the Basilica de San Isidoro. Dating from the 11th century the walls and low ceiling are covered with Romanesque frescoes in muted tones; the biblical figures are weighty and outlined in a nervous black line. Memorable."

 

[Dsavid Keyte]

basilca de San isidoro frescos - Resultados de Yahoo España en la búsqueda de imágenes

Worth having a look on line the images are on there

 

[FRM]

A truly beautiful church. The frescoes are beyond impressive. The day I was there there were only Spanish language tours. They provided a sheet of paper with the highlights in English. The tour took us to areas of the Church not typically accessible. Their library had some amazing illuminated manuscripts. A highlight of my 2 days in Leon.

frm

 

[IngridF]

One of my favorite churches. So going to take that tour next time around.

 

[peregrina2000]

Love that place! They call it the “Sistine Chapel of Romanesque” and that is not too hyperbolic, IMO. Enjoy, Scruffy.

I know the frescoes in the Panteón de los Reyes are the main attraction, but the Romanesque church itself is very nice. If I remember correctly, the tour does not take you through the church, and many people don’t go in. And there is a small museum attached, also worth a visit. It has an enamel box from Limoges that I think is just stunning.

Interesting to see that the official website gives the history and tells us how Napoleon’s troops used the church and the pantheon for stables. Thankfully, a lot survived.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Basilica of San Isidoro, León - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[ukjohn99]

Thank you. It sounds marvelous but, sadly, I didn't visit it when I was in Leon. I will make sure that I do next time. In the meantime I've ordered a second hand copy of the San Isidoro in Leon book from Amazon UK so at least I can read about it and enjoy the photos.

In my opinion, the most amazing church before SdC must be San Isidoro in León. There is a tour usually in Spanish occasionally in English which should be taken the first time around. The church decoration is all Romanesque from the statues, the column capitals, to the gorgeous mind-boggling frescoes. It is also possible, or was anyway, to wander through by yourself – a better idea if you have already been there or have a good understanding of the Romanesque. The reception area offers postcards, small picture books, some history material, and books – the most relevant and affordable the most beautiful being “San Isidoro in Leon - the Royal Pantheon: The Advent of Romanesque Architecture, Sculpture, Painting” by Antonio Vinayo Gonzalez published by Esplendores del Arte Edilesa. Something I purchased years ago. Price 14€. Also available in German. Moving on to stupid stupid me…the plates in the book are absolutely amazing in their detail and beauty – I’ve often looked through the book – just to remember. Today pulled it down again and made a startling discovery, all the pages showing the plates are double and sealed at the edge like old uncut books! There are twice as many plates as I have ever seen and I never knew! Wish me luck I’m off to try and open them!View attachment 91420

 

[Albertagirl]

When I am in Leon, on three caminos so far, I always spend a couple of nights there and make a point of visiting San Isidoro. It feels to me like a parish church, somehow with an intimate feel that I do not get in the Cathedral in Leon (or the Cathedral in Santiago). I am trying to find our more about Romanesque churches in Spain. But I think that this feeling for me has more to do with my experience of being there to pray with the local people, who seem at home there. I have received a pilgrim blessing there. It is a place of ordinary prayer and Christian community. I look forward to returning there someday.

 

[camino07]

I have been to the Pilgrim mass there a couple of times and we were taken out to the front for a blessing and given a small memento. Great start to the San Salvador/Primitivo.

 

[OZAJ]

And the Holy Grail in the museum ... maybe.

 

[NorthernLight]

The museum attached is my favourite. They have a collection of ancient books and codices that makes me tremble in awe. The star attraction is a Visigothic-Mozarabic Bible that was the work of Florencius and Sancho in the year 960.

 

[peregrina2000]

The museum attached is my favourite. They have a collection of ancient books and codices that makes me tremble in awe. The star attraction is a Visigothic-Mozarabic Bible that was the work of Florencius and Sancho in the year 960.

I don’t remember the manuscript, but I found a website with lots of nice pictures if you scroll down over on the right under where it says “Galería.”

BIBLIA LEONESA DE SAN ISIDORO - Turismo Prerrománico

www.turismo-prerromanico.com

@NorthernLight, how is it displayed?

 

[NorthernLight]

how is it displayed?

If memory serves, it was opened at a random page and under glass. But honestly I don’t trust that memory. I recall the feeling well though. There was one room full of the old tomes.

Their website has some details:

Renaissance Library - San Isidoro Museum - Royal Collegiate Church

2000 books dated between the 10th Century and the 18th Century.There are 155 Codices. About 300 incunabula. About 1050 rare booksimpressed

www.museosanisidorodeleon.com

 

[Albertagirl]

I don’t remember the manuscript, but I found a website with lots of nice pictures if you scroll down over on the right under where it says “Galería.”

BIBLIA LEONESA DE SAN ISIDORO - Turismo Prerrománico

www.turismo-prerromanico.com

This is an amazing website. I hope that I shall be able to find my way around in it before I leave for the Levante in the fall. I already discovered, quite by chance, information on what to see in Toledo and in the area of San Martin de Valdeigleisias on the Levante. I don't know yet what I shall see there in the way of pre-romanesque iglesias. I think that it may be on the prerromanico website because of the castle. I shall try to find the time to see what is mentioned on this website for locations along the Levante.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

If memory serves, it was opened at a random page and under glass. But honestly I don’t trust that memory. I recall the feeling well though. There was one room full of the old tomes

It was an impressive room but I had to pass through it quickly because I got to the museum shorty before closing and the pantheon was my priority. However, we got to see many illuminated manuscripts on display at the museum attached to the cathedral in nearby Astorga.

 

[Mycroft]

In my opinion, the most amazing church before SdC must be San Isidoro in León. There is a tour usually in Spanish occasionally in English which should be taken the first time around. The church decoration is all Romanesque from the statues, the column capitals, to the gorgeous mind-boggling frescoes. It is also possible, or was anyway, to wander through by yourself – a better idea if you have already been there or have a good understanding of the Romanesque. The reception area offers postcards, small picture books, some history material, and books – the most relevant and affordable the most beautiful being “San Isidoro in Leon - the Royal Pantheon: The Advent of Romanesque Architecture, Sculpture, Painting” by Antonio Vinayo Gonzalez published by Esplendores del Arte Edilesa. Something I purchased years ago. Price 14€. Also available in German. Moving on to stupid stupid me…the plates in the book are absolutely amazing in their detail and beauty – I’ve often looked through the book – just to remember. Today pulled it down again and made a startling discovery, all the pages showing the plates are double and sealed at the edge like old uncut books! There are twice as many plates as I have ever seen and I never knew! Wish me luck I’m off to try and open them!View attachment 91420

Let us know what you find!