Beginning in Lisbon-need some tips.

[LynneR]

Hello,
I am planning my third Camino, but I would like to try the Portuguese way this time. I have a couple questions for those of you who started in Lisbon.

First, did you fly into the Lisbon airport? It seems the obvious choice, but I'm wondering if there is another recommendation.

Second, how long did it take for you to get to Santiago? I have walked the Frances way twice, and walked anywhere from 10-22 miles a day, depending on accommodations, weather, and terrain. I'm ready for the challenge, but I know there are days when you have to be reasonable. I don't know much about the terrain or if it is as mountainous as some of the regions in Northern Spain.

Any basic tips would be helpful. Thanks so much, piligrims.

 

[Via2010]

Do you really want to walk along the coast? The costal camino seems not to be marked before Porto, so I`d rather switch to the coast thereafter.. Even on the central between Lisbon and Porto there are only few places to stay (tough sufficient for your intended average mileage). You pass nice towns (Santarem, Tomar, Coimbra). Minimum Porto-Santiago seems to be 3 weeks, more comfortable is 4 weeks.

BC
Aöexamdra

 

[Magwood]

I walked from Lisbon in 2014. I think there are one or two additional albergues that have opened in the meantime. I walked from Lisbon with another pilgrim who had a preference for short stages and I didn’t have a tight schedule so I took it easy until Porto where I decided to go on alone and walked much longer stages. You are welcome to take a look at my blog - I posted every day with lots of photos and information about the terrain and accommodation. It’s a lovely route and I’m sure you will enjoy it.

I flew directly into Lisbon.
Bom caminho!

 

[Tassie Kaz]

I walked the Portugues from Lisbon to SdC in 2015. I actually flew into Madrid & caught the overnight train to Lisbon. I had a single compartment with its own bathroom (toilet, sink, shower). I had no particular reason for doing it this way other than it was an added experience. Worked for me.
As I was also returning home from Madrid, it gave the option of leaving additional luggage if I wanted to. There is (or at least, was...) long term luggage storage at Madrid train station for very reasonable rates. From memory, it was €1 per day.
I took 28 days to walk the entire route & this included (a highly recommended) few days in Porto.
As 28 days isn't really a long time, at the end of it, I went on to Muxia & Finisterre.

I don't remember the terrain being difficult at all but what can cause problems are the seemingly endless cobblestones. They are very hard on the feet & tiring for the legs. The cobblestones are quite small & have gaps between them which can cause friction depending on how you step. Footwear which provides a bit of extra height between you & the ground will help absorb this. Also consider carrying foot cushions to go in your shoe if blisters occur. I don't normally get blisters on my long walks but I got some rippers on the Portugues!
Yes, the Lisbon to Porto leg does have its own set of issues but that doesn't by any stretch, mean its not worth doing.
You're out there free, experiencing & walking everyday...& in my view, it doesn't get much better than that.
Bom Caminho

 

[John Sikora]

Did the walk last May in 4 weeks at a relatively easy pace. Accommodations are a bit sparse from Lisbon to Porto so I reserved ahead at smaller hotels.

I still have nightmares about cobblestones The Spanish have the Inquisition, the Portuguese have cobblestones. Cracks are just wide enough to snag your poles as well.

Lisbon or Madrid works as far as airports. Lisbon has very frequent service and multiple airlines.

But all that said, it was a nice walk.

 

[LynneR]

Did the walk last May in 4 weeks at a relatively easy pace. Accommodations are a bit sparse from Lisbon to Porto so I reserved ahead at smaller hotels.

I still have nightmares about cobblestones The Spanish have the Inquisition, the Portuguese have cobblestones. Cracks are just wide enough to snag your poles as well.

Lisbon or Madrid works as far as airports. Lisbon has very frequent service and multiple airlines.

But all that said, it was a nice walk.

Thanks for your comments. How does the walk compare to Frances?
Thanks again!

 

[LynneR]

I walked the Portugues from Lisbon to SdC in 2015. I actually flew into Madrid & caught the overnight train to Lisbon. I had a single compartment with its own bathroom (toilet, sink, shower). I had no particular reason for doing it this way other than it was an added experience. Worked for me.
As I was also returning home from Madrid, it gave the option of leaving additional luggage if I wanted to. There is (or at least, was...) long term luggage storage at Madrid train station for very reasonable rates. From memory, it was €1 per day.
I took 28 days to walk the entire route & this included (a highly recommended) few days in Porto.
As 28 days isn't really a long time, at the end of it, I went on to Muxia & Finisterre.

I don't remember the terrain being difficult at all but what can cause problems are the seemingly endless cobblestones. They are very hard on the feet & tiring for the legs. The cobblestones are quite small & have gaps between them which can cause friction depending on how you step. Footwear which provides a bit of extra height between you & the ground will help absorb this. Also consider carrying foot cushions to go in your shoe if blisters occur. I don't normally get blisters on my long walks but I got some rippers on the Portugues!
Yes, the Lisbon to Porto leg does have its own set of issues but that doesn't by any stretch, mean its not worth doing.
You're out there free, experiencing & walking everyday...& in my view, it doesn't get much better than that.
Bom Caminho

I appreciate your input. You are not the first to mention the cobblestones. How about traveling alone from Lisbon to Porto? I always felt safe in Spain, but what is it like in Portugal?
Thanks,
Lynne

 

[John Sikora]

Two different animals. The Frances is more rural with much much less asphalt and two walking. On the CP, it seemed like 70% was through villages or small cities. That's very nice if you like to see the towns, people, and enjoy "city" life but less so if you're more into nature.

The CP is much less "pilgrimy". But that's not necessarily a bad thing.

They are just a little different. The walk along the coast is really nice (although I had quite a bit of fog). Food on the CP is better (and a little more expensive) that the CF. The route is heavy on fish and shellfish.

Each has it's own charms depending on your personality and likes/dislikes.

I should mention that the CP is perhaps a little less "safe" than the CF. This isn't because of inherent violence. There are just fewer people on the rural sections (until you get to Porto). But don't let that frighten you in the least. You're still safer there than in most countries of the world. This obviously depends of what time of year as well. You won't be alone during the high season or when the reverse paths to Fatima are busy.

The highways along the route are, in many spots, dangerous for walkers with narrow shoulders (highways not the walkers ) and fairly high speed limits for mixed use. If one looks particularly bad, just check maps or ask - there may be a local road that parallels the busy highway.

On the Lisbon to Porto leg you may also have more difficulty getting the stamps in your credencial but I still got one or two per day. After Porto, their used to pilgrims and have the usual plethora of stamps available.

 

[Camembert]

Two different animals. The Frances is more rural with much much less asphalt and two walking. On the CP, it seemed like 70% was through villages or small cities. That's very nice if you like to see the towns, people, and enjoy "city" life but less so if you're more into nature.

The CP is much less "pilgrimy". But that's not necessarily a bad thing.

They are just a little different. The walk along the coast is really nice (although I had quite a bit of fog). Food on the CP is better (and a little more expensive) that the CF. The route is heavy on fish and shellfish.

Each has it's own charms depending on your personality and likes/dislikes.

I should mention that the CP is perhaps a little less "safe" than the CF. This isn't because of inherent violence. There are just fewer people on the rural sections (until you get to Porto). But don't let that frighten you in the least. You're still safer there than in most countries of the world.

On the Lisbon to Porto leg you may also have more difficulty getting the stamps in your credencial but I still got one or two per day. After Porto, their used to pilgrims and have the usual plethora of stamps available.

You can get stamps everywhere in Portugal even between Lisboa and Porto. At every bar, restaurant , gasstation etc . A stamp is called karimbo in portuguēs .
No problem. We gathered so many stamps that just outside Porto we needed a second credential . We got it at the restaurant Pedra Furada just 6 kms beyondSão Pedro decRates

We did trails of 20 kms a day. No problem between Lisbon and Porto
We slept in pensões, hostals,bed and breakfasts, at the voluntary firebrigade (bombeiros volontarios) in a school and in a retait house with nuns.

The Portuguese is as safe as you feel. Unsafe yes because you have to take care for the traffic. Portugues have a funny (fast) driving style and parts you will walk on the hardshoulder of the road.

On the Lisbon trail they are used to pilgrims . Lots walk to Fátima .

 

[Tassie Kaz]

I appreciate your input. You are not the first to mention the cobblestones. How about traveling alone from Lisbon to Porto? I always felt safe in Spain, but what is it like in Portugal?
Thanks,
Lynne

Hi Lynne, As a solo female, I had no issues with personal safety in Portugal. The Lisbon to Porto leg does include a few isolated stretches & some days you have to put in extra kms due to lack of accommodation, but by looking ahead, you'll know when those days are & can plan accordingly.
The only 'incident' I experienced was with a drug dealer in Coimbra. I had been warned in advance of their MO (they approach from behind & whisper over your shoulder) so when it actually happened, it was dealt with simply & easily. At 170cm I'm not a tower but I am taller than most Portuguese & could 'loom large' if necessary but a loud 'GO AWAY' (in English) was enough to send him scampering! There are loads of tourists in Coimbra & I was in a very public place. I did not feel threatened at all, I was more annoyed he'd interrupted my stroll! I'm not mentioning this incident to alarm you, more forewarned is forearmed. I want to stress, I did not feel targeted as a solo female, I was merely another tourist he hoped to make a buck from. Coimbra is an amazing city (oh..that view when you come around the corner & see it in front of you for the 1st time...) & I spent quite some time just happily wandering around...I loved it.
The Caminho Portugues still remains one of my favourite walks. If time is not an issue, go the whole distance Lynne & don't be concerned. I am so glad I did...personally I would feel I'd missed out if I hadn't done the Lisbon-Porto leg. It is almost a Caminho of two halves but one is not superior to the other, they are just different. You could judge it on scenery alone but that would be unfair...its about much more than that. Step out with confidence..you'll be fine & you're in for a wonderful experience. Bom Caminho!

 

[Goran]

Hello,
I am planning my third Camino, but I would like to try the Portuguese way this time. I have a couple questions for those of you who started in Lisbon.

First, did you fly into the Lisbon airport? It seems the obvious choice, but I'm wondering if there is another recommendation.

Second, how long did it take for you to get to Santiago? I have walked the Frances way twice, and walked anywhere from 10-22 miles a day, depending on accommodations, weather, and terrain. I'm ready for the challenge, but I know there are days when you have to be reasonable. I don't know much about the terrain or if it is as mountainous as some of the regions in Northern Spain.

Any basic tips would be helpful. Thanks so much, piligrims.

Hello,
I am planning my third Camino, but I would like to try the Portuguese way this time. I have a couple questions for those of you who started in Lisbon.

First, did you fly into the Lisbon airport? It seems the obvious choice, but I'm wondering if there is another recommendation.

Second, how long did it take for you to get to Santiago? I have walked the Frances way twice, and walked anywhere from 10-22 miles a day, depending on accommodations, weather, and terrain. I'm ready for the challenge, but I know there are days when you have to be reasonable. I don't know much about the terrain or if it is as mountainous as some of the regions in Northern Spain.

Any basic tips would be helpful. Thanks so much, piligrims.

My wife and me walked Camino from Lisbon via Fatima to Santiago last year in June. It took us 22 days to get to Santiago. We had a very nice weather for a hiking with a lot of cloudy days. You have to take into account fact that drinking water is not available as on Frances way and albergue is not on every 5 to 10 K. Scenery is fantastic, especially stretch from Porto on coastal way.

All in all Camino Portuguese is easiest then Camino Frances but beware of dogs.

 

[Walking Lover]

Hello,
I am planning my third Camino, but I would like to try the Portuguese way this time. I have a couple questions for those of you who started in Lisbon.

First, did you fly into the Lisbon airport? It seems the obvious choice, but I'm wondering if there is another recommendation.

Second, how long did it take for you to get to Santiago? I have walked the Frances way twice, and walked anywhere from 10-22 miles a day, depending on accommodations, weather, and terrain. I'm ready for the challenge, but I know there are days when you have to be reasonable. I don't know much about the terrain or if it is as mountainous as some of the regions in Northern Spain.

Any basic tips would be helpful. Thanks so much, piligrims.

Flew into Lisbon; followed Brierley's guide, but skipped 5 stages.

 

[Leigh Macklin]

Getting to Lisbon: lucked out into a cheapish direct flight from Toronto to Lisbon. Then an easy metro connection to Parque das Nacoes. Dropped my bag off at the hotel. Then took the metro to the Cathedral and walked about the 10 km back to the hotel. For me that meant approximately 30 km on my ´first day´ to stay in Vilafranca de Xira. Hs DP was affordable, bookable on bookings.com and contained other peregrinas.

It took me 26 days. That included 2 'rest days' to fix equipment issues. Distances were less variable than the C.F. and I had to carry loads more water. It is much flatter and filled with cobblestones. As stated...more road walking but the Portugese people I encountered treated me with so much Grace and hospitality. Beauty takes many forms...

 

[jimmyc]

Great choice Lynne. I walked from Lisbon in 2016 and loved every minute. It is totally different from the CF which very much adds to the experience. I had the Brierley guide which was excellent. It had all the accommodation available clearly laid out for each stage including intermediary towns if you did not wish to stick to his suggested legs.
I flew into Lisbon and caught the Metro into the city. I pre-booked my room in Lisbon but for no other place. I never had any problem finding a bed throughout the walk. In some Albergues I had the entire place to myself and this was in June. After Porto there are many more Pilgrims but I always found accommodation.
Because of my advanced age I tried to limit my days to less than 25kms but in some instances I had to exceed 30kms because there were no albergues, hotels or pensions along the way.
I completed the walk in about 30 days but if you walk the distances you propose you should complete it in much less time.

 

[he.panpub]

Hi,
From June 12 to July 21, 2018 I walked from Cabo de Sao Vicente to Sagrès in the south of Portugal to Santiago, trying to be close to the coast : this was my Camino 2018. So, it included the part Lisbon-Porto costal way : there's no waymarks, but I can send you and to anyone who ask for it :

• my accommodations,
• my stages,
• my GPX tracks

Anyway there's more accommodations on the way Lisbon-Porto by Coimbra. I Made it in 2016. I had no problem with cobblestones road. Contact me VIA A FORUM PM.
For my Camino 2018, I've posted 10 shorts videos on my youtube channel whose name is he.panpub, enjoy !

NOTE from moderator: Hi, he.panpub, We have a policy of deleting personal email addresses when people post them. For spam, privacy, etc. So I reaplaced your email address with the suggestion that people contact you via the Private Conversation function. Go to the little envelope icon up on the right, and you can easily “start a conversation” with any forum member. In the private conversation, if you wish to share personal email addresses, that is of course fine, because no one but the people in the conversation can see it. Thanks!

 

[ConnieAdriano]

We walked the central from Lisbon July August 2018. It took us 30 days. We stayed in some great alberguesand never had any trouble finding a place to stay. There are a few long walking days if you do not have time to break 30km days up. The way was well marked.

Yes there were cobblestones and road walking but not so much that it will make your walk awful. Walking from Lisbon means you do some city walking which we found amazing to see Portugal in all of its different facets. The way was well marked eve to the point the markings showed alternative routes if you wanted to do more or less distance or see something different. We did some something different routes and wow! In comparison to the French/Spanish way it has way less people making it a very peaceful time. After Porto though the way becomes busier and so we extended one day so as to be on a different start and end point from the masses. We still never had any issues with accommodation. Prices ranged between 6 - 24(in portly) euros a night.

The people are wonderful in Portugal. One time an old bloke stopped our little group and asked if we were perigrinosand we said yes. He gave all eight of us a bag of two apples and some ice cold water. Regularly when walking through farmland we were given fresh fruit and water. Learn some simple portuguese, people love that.

Ultimately it is different to the French way. But a wonderful different. Do it is what we say! You will love it. We loved the central way. We met the coast way at points which was lovely but the country has some amazing farm land and mountains, gum tree plantations, corn fields, and so much more. Fields of tomatoes and eggplants (aubergines). Oh my I yearn to go again.

Your choice will be the best choice for you. Enjoy and keep everyone posted. Bon Caminho xx