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Bendueños to Mieres

peregrina2000

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I thought I would start a separate thread to make a couple of specific points on this stage, which is part of a “five day Salvador”. For those who like less advance notice, you can stop reading now.

First, the church in Bendueños is a treasure and has gotten some restoration funding. Sandra has the key. See this thread.

From Bendueños back to the Camino, there is supposedly a “shortcut” (atajo in Spanish) that does not require going back to the lovely little hamlet of Herías. But Álvaro Lazaga has walked this route twice recently and has not found that route on either occasion. When I stayed in Bendueños, I saw the turnoff for Campomanes, but took the well-known road route back a km to Herías and continued on.

Santa Cristina de Lena is, as they say a pre-romanesque jewel. It is only about 4 km from Bendueños and doesn’t open till 11 (11:30 in winter, which I think is usually November through March), so you will have a lot of time to dawdle, either enjoying the view from Bendueños’ terrace or eating breakfast in Campomanes. There is a good café on the way out of Campomanes before the river walk. But this is a church to be avoided only by those who have absolutely not one iota of interest in ancient architecture or churches in general. It is hard to overstate its simple beauty.

After Pola de Gordón, there is a newly marked alternative that veers off the official route slightly before the gasolinera outside of town. You will see an arrow taking you under a tunnel. Álvaro has good pictures on his vlog and also indicates on his video “muy dura” (very difficult). I think he is referring to the descent, which is steep. So this is an “up and down” alternative on dirt trails, which avoids a flat stretch on the side of a very narrow and very busy road. Your choice. Marking was sketchy when I went through in September, but Ender and Co. has done a good job of marking the very sharp turn to make the descent.

And one last thing — before entering Pola de Gordón, you will pass the beautiful old train station of Cobertoria. It has now been converted into an information center on Pre-romanesque, but I have never found it open. Maybe you will be lucky.


Ujo to Mieres is a flat walk on a via verde, paved but with dirt shoulders that have well worn trails from others who also dislike walking on asphalt.

Mieres is one of those places that doesn’t offer a lot of physical beauty but has, IMO, a great ambiente and lots of good food and places to enjoy life outside in a café.

The end.

 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Yep. We never found that short cut. Mieres, the hometown of Jose Andre, the world renowned chef now helping out in the Ukraine, is a jewel. If you haven't seen it, check out Anthony Bourdain's trip there with Jose. https://www.eater.com/2018/9/30/179...ts-unknown-asturias-recap-season-12-episode-2

The Salvador is one of our all-time favorites for so many reasons. When we arrived at The Cathedral in Oviedo to obtain our certificate, the Salvadorana, I was enraptured by the statues of Santiago and John in the Camera Santa. I simply had to buy a reproduction statue. My wife thought I was crazy to consider carrying it all the way to Santiago. But I did. Lots of comments as the two heads stuck out of my backpack. I now have that statue on my wall as a wonderful reminder of this unforgettable pilgrimage.
 
Laurie, thanks for posting! Lots to dream about, lots of possibilities. Can’t figure out why it took them so long to get to Mieres? Hanging out at Santa Cristina? I’ve always been amazed at how the Spaniards no matter their age or weight manage to scamper up and down the trails, usually singing and talking, here they seemed to be challenged by the descents. I prefer climbing and have a lot of respect for the way down. Always love how the animals stop and check out the Peregrin@s. Loved the 2 cows in this video looking ‘em right in the eye. This whole El Salvador looking a lot like por Hospitales on the Primitivo. 🚶🏽‍♀️🚶🏽‍♀️🚶🏽‍♀️Can’t wait!!!!
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Looking around, was able to find this opening schedule from someone on TripAdvisor. Closed Mondays.
 

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I am bookmarking all your posts on the Salvador as it looks incredible! I am still a Camino virgin so the first one has to be to Santiago (next month hopefully), always thinking of doing the Primitivo if I’m still up for more Caminoes, and now I have to add the Salvador before the Primitivo! 🙈
 
I am bookmarking all your posts on the Salvador as it looks incredible! I am still a Camino virgin so the first one has to be to Santiago (next month hopefully), always thinking of doing the Primitivo if I’m still up for more Caminoes, and now I have to add the Salvador before the Primitivo! 🙈
Well if your time is unlimited, and if you think you are ready for a less traveled option when you get to León on the Francés, you can just hang a right at the parador and walk the Salvador to Oviedo and then take the Primitivo into Santiago. :D
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Well if your time is unlimited, and if you think you are ready for a less traveled option when you get to León on the Francés, you can just hang a right at the parador and walk the Salvador to Oviedo and then take the Primitivo into Santiago. :D
I’m not physically and mentally ready! But I will keep dreaming about it and hopefully one day would get to do it
 
Álvaro has good pictures on his vlog and also indicates on his video “muy dura” (very difficult). I think he is referring to the descent, which is steep.
I was talking with a friend yesterday about hiking poles on camino. Wendy uses a single wooden pilgrim staff, while I don't use any, because caminos are generally pretty flat so I don't feel that I need them, and I like to have my hands free to take photos and generally prefer to be unencumbered.

But with all the ups and (especially) downs on the Salvador, should I consider buying poles in León?
 
It will be hard to give you a precise number of meters of evation gain. If you look for trails on wikiloc ”camino salvador leon oviedo” you will find a huge range of recorded total elevation gain — from 2500 m to over 4500 m — all trails recording from León to Oviedo.

The Salvador is not
generally pretty flat
by any stretch of the imagination, though there are of course flat stretches — the first 9 km out of León, along the river to Mieres, etc.

I use two poles for every step I take on any camino, so I am a bad person to answer this question. If @jpflavin1 comes on anytime soon, he would be a good person to ask. He doesn’t typically walk with poles, and I don’t know if he used them on the Salvador.

There are some really vertiginous descents (most notably after the Puerto de Pajares) and I would think the poles would be worth their weight in gold on just that section.

I know that the “should I use poles” question is just as impossible to answer as the “do I need a sleeping bag” question, but my instinct here is that most would definitely benefit from poles on the Salvador.
 
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It will be hard to give you a precise number of meters of evation gain. If you look for trails on wikiloc ”camino salvador leon oviedo” you will find a huge range of recorded total elevation gain — from 2500 m to over 4500 m — all trails recording from León to Oviedo.

The Salvador is not

by any stretch of the imagination, though there are of course flat stretches — the first 9 km out of León, along the river to Mieres, etc.

I use two poles for every step I take on any camino, so I am a bad person to answer this question. If @jpflavin1 comes on anytime soon, he would be a good person to ask. He doesn’t typically walk with poles, and I don’t know if he used them on the Salvador.

There are some really vertiginous descents (most notably after the Puerto de Pajares) and I would think the poles would be worth their weight in gold on just that section.

I know that the “should I use poles” question is just as impossible to answer as the “do I need a sleeping bag” question, but my instinct here is that most would definitely benefit from poles on the Salvador.
Poles will be very useful for descents. My wife slipped several times. Unless it's very dry, which is unlikely, you will find some incredibly slipping descents. There was one longer than 20 feet that was like ice. We did butt slides, making for some heavy clean up later.

As for the ups, we felt they were manageable, then felt incredibly embarrassed when an 87 year old dude from California went scampering up the hill where Ender placed a cross, leaving us in his wake. We simply had to catch up. We walked with him and his Dutch girlfriend, for which her tender age of 65 made him qualify for rocking the cradle, for the next three days. They were great fun and truly inspirational. I hope I can scamper like him when I'm 87!
 
I was talking with a friend yesterday about hiking poles on camino. Wendy uses a single wooden pilgrim staff, while I don't use any, because caminos are generally pretty flat so I don't feel that I need them, and I like to have my hands free to take photos and generally prefer to be unencumbered.

But with all the ups and (especially) downs on the Salvador, should I consider buying poles in León?
I very rarely use a pole and in fact just carry one for very steep accents/decents and the occasional water crossing. Cannot remember using it on the Salvador so if I did it was probably for a very short time.
 
I was talking with a friend yesterday about hiking poles on camino. Wendy uses a single wooden pilgrim staff, while I don't use any, because caminos are generally pretty flat so I don't feel that I need them, and I like to have my hands free to take photos and generally prefer to be unencumbered.

But with all the ups and (especially) downs on the Salvador, should I consider buying poles in León?
My reasoning to carry poles is that I've come a very long way and dedicated a lot of time to go on Camino. One slip and a bad result means that all that effort is for nought. Those lucky people who dwell in the EU can more quickly initiate or abandon a walk. Each time I've gone I've had a least one potential stumble where my poles saved me. I can understand your preference for hands free, you could carry collapsible poles and only use them in the tricky spots.
 
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My reasoning to carry poles is that I've come a very long way and dedicated a lot of time to go on Camino. One slip and a bad result means that all that effort is for nought. Those lucky people who dwell in the EU can more quickly initiate or abandon a walk. Each time I've gone I've had a least one potential stumble where my poles saved me. I can understand your preference for hands free, you could carry collapsible poles and only use them in the tricky spots.
We never hike without a pole, even if it never comes off the back of the pack. We don't need two for balance, as many hikers do, but a slippery, steep, R&R (rocks and roots) trail, which could include any or all of the above, is one where the pole comes out. Like you, anything we can do to cut down on the odds of injury makes so much sense. A number of us will be up in the Blue Ridge tomorrow on a 2000 ft elevation change trail. We ask that all have and use poles. Nothing can mess up a hike more than having to assist someone who is injured.
 

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