Best day to arrive in St. Jean

[mcopeland]

My husband and I will be starting our first Camino in late April and were wondering whether there was a best day to arrive in St. Jean Pied du Port. We want to rest and recover from our flight so we'll stay in St. Jean a night and start out in the morning and hopefully will be able to get a bed in Orisson. Also wondering how many days it will take us to reach Pamploma. We plan on taking things slowly (we're in our mid-60's and not very athletic) but have an anniversary on April 30th and plan to stay in a nice hotel for the night. Pamploma seems like the logical place.
Mary

 

[Robo]

My husband and I will be starting our first Camino in late April and were wondering whether there was a best day to arrive in St. Jean Pied du Port. We want to rest and recover from our flight so we'll stay in St. Jean a night and start out in the morning and hopefully will be able to get a bed in Orisson. Also wondering how many days it will take us to reach Pamploma. We plan on taking things slowly (we're in our mid-60's and not very athletic) but have an anniversary on April 30th and plan to stay in a nice hotel for the night. Pamploma seems like the logical place.
Mary

I am no expert. Others will have better advice I'm sure. But I worked on the assumption that the weekends might be busier than weekdays in terms of a 'start' day. And of course public holidays. I started on a Tuesday...I think.

To get to Pamplona? Depends how fast you walk ? I'm not being facetious, but I have walked with 'slow' walkers that I could not keep up with. It's all relative.

To put things in perspective, I was a very slow walker. I think I only found one person who walker slower than me. No two!

One was a grandmother of 85 and the other a lady who could barely walk at all due to bad blisters....

So with that made clear.......

I got to Pamplona in 5 days. 99.9% of people are quicker than that. 4 days would be quite manageable for you I'm sure.

I started slow due to injury and did these stages.

St Jean to Orisson. A short first day. Certainly felt like I wanted to walk more, after a rest. But not all the way to Roncesvalles.
Roncevalles. A good day, but the downhill was hard on the legs.
Viskarette. A bit of a short day. Again I felt I wanted to press on a bit.
Zubiri. Long enough for me, particularly as a I took the 'alternate' longer route down the road.
Pamplona. My first full day. I was fairly beat when I got there. But a rest and a shower fixes tat fairly quickly!

That way I built up distance gradually. Zubiri to Pamplona being my first 'full day' really.

It makes sense to stop at Orisson in my mind. Why kill yourself on day one trying to reach Roncesvalles.

Whilst the climb to Orisson is steep...and you will walk slowly....with lots of stops to catch your breath.....you will get there surprisingly quickly. I made it in about 3 hours. So no need to start out at the 'crack of dawn'.... You can see some videos and commentary about day one here:

http://robscamino.com/28th-of-april-its-raining-saint-jean-to-orrison/
http://robscamino.com/saint-jean-to-orisson/
http://robscamino.com/day-1-to-orisson/

If you don't feel up to St Jean to Roncesvalles in one day there are other alternatives on the Napolean Route. Use Caroline's shuttle bus. Picks you up at your day 1 finish point and drops you back the next day. http://www.expressbourricot.com/en/persons-transport/

Best of luck with your planning and Buen Camino!

 

[Peter Fransiscus]

My husband and I will be starting our first Camino in late April and were wondering whether there was a best day to arrive in St. Jean Pied du Port. We want to rest and recover from our flight so we'll stay in St. Jean a night and start out in the morning and hopefully will be able to get a bed in Orisson. Also wondering how many days it will take us to reach Pamploma. We plan on taking things slowly (we're in our mid-60's and not very athletic) but have an anniversary on April 30th and plan to stay in a nice hotel for the night. Pamploma seems like the logical place.
Mary

Hi Mary, it's about 70km. to Pamplona.
When you stay in the albergue Orisson it's mabe 4 days. I can predict for you how many days it will be.
Wish you happy planning and a Buen Camino, Peter.

 

[Deleted member 43985]

Hi mcopeland!
Pretty exciting to plan that first Camino! One thing to keep in mind is that in April it is still very likely to have a good amount of snow if you go the Napoleon route so considering the Valcarlos route is an alternative. It also helps settle you into the Camino if you stop at Valcarlos (13kms), then Roncesvalles (15kms) before heading downhill to Zubiri and then onto Pamplona. 4 days of pretty moderate walking and then maybe a nice anniversary dinner in Pamplona....
Buen camino!

 

[SYates]

Starting beginning of the week is certainly quieter then starting at the week-end. Four days to Pamplona is realistic, if you want to get an impression of Spanish fiesta atmosphere arrive a Saturday in Pamplona, Buen Camino, SY

 

[Robo]

Starting beginning of the week is certainly quieter then starting at the week-end. Four days to Pamplona is realistic, if you want to get an impression of Spanish fiesta atmosphere arrive a Saturday in Pamplona, Buen Camino, SY

It's interesting looking at the Brierley Guide now, having walked the CF. And accepting that I am a slow walker...

But even so, I can't imagine doing St Jean to Pamplona in three days. Unless really fit and very used to hiking long distances that is.

The first day would be a very 'big' day for most people, St Jean to Roncesvalles. 27 kms plus the height.....gain and loss.

Then another 27 km to Larrasoana on tired legs, including the steep descent into Zubiri. I think that would finish me off....

Then a much easier 20 to just past Pamplona.

I'm not sure I could do it Do many people?

For an experienced hiker OK....

A couch potato like me? No way

 

[SYates]

In four days it would be:

SJPdP to Orrison
Orrison to Roncesvalles
Roncesvalles to Zubiri
Zubiri to Pamplona

Three days would be indeed a bit harsh at the beginning. Buen Camino, SY

 

[VNwalking]

I had a mellow Tuesday start also. It was very low-key...but that was also early/mid-March. I was told by someone (but can't remember who) that weekends are busier.
The Valcarlos route is a hidden gem, and a beautiful walk through beech and pine forest after Valcarlos; 4 days if you stop there, 3 if not. I got to Pamplona in 3 and was fine, but this part of the walk definitely had its moments--daily walking with weight on one's back is quite an adjustment, and it tales time. I was late 50s., often sedentary, but with long ago backpacking experience and a stubborn streak. I just put my head down and kept walking--alert to any discomfort that might have been more than adjustment. After day 3 it got better and better, easier and easier.

 

[Deleted member 43985]

I had a mellow Tuesday start also. It was very low-key...but that was also early/mid-March. I was told by someone (but can't remember who) that weekends are busier.
The Valcarlos route is a hidden gem, and a beautiful walk through beech and pine forest after Valcarlos; 4 days if you stop there, 3 if not. I got to Pamplona in 3 and was fine, but this part of the walk definitely had its moments--daily walking with weight on one's back is quite an adjustment, and it tales time. I was late 50s., often sedentary, but with long ago backpacking experience and a stubborn streak. I just put my head down and kept walking--alert to any discomfort that might have been more than adjustment. After day 3 it got better and better, easier and easier.

I agree, Viranani, going Valcarlos is a great 4-day start that also gets you away from the Brierley guidebook stops. A nice one is SJPDP-Valcarlos-Burgete-Zubiri-Pamplona. It really takes the sting out of Day 1!

 

[mspath]

I, too, have always enjoyed the Valcarlos alternate route stopping both at that municipal albergue and the Roncesvalles albergue. Roncesvalles monastery itself has been welcoming pilgrims since the eleventh century. Do plan to attend the evening mass in the ancient Romanesque church and the traditional pilgrimage blessing; this is a meaningful and poignant way to begin your camino journey.

Buen Camino,

MM

 

[naplesdon]

Mondays in France and Spain are traditionally closing days for museums, banks and points of interest.

 

[Kurt5280]

On Monday morning there is a Farmers Market in SJPDP that also sells prepared food so my recommendation is enjoy Monday in town and leave on Tuesday morning...the Camino is very busy between SJPDP and Pamplona so it is best to make reservations in advance every day between these two cities...also if your not in good shape I don't recommend the Route Napoleon and my experience was the first day from SJPDP to Orisson was extremely hot, high humidity, direct sunlight, no wind, and it is very difficult to sleep your first night in an albergue...the next day crossing the Pyrenees from Orisson to Roncevaux/Roncenvalles (same place with two different spelling of the name) was a constant 30-MPH head wind all the way to the Spanish border...but if you decide that you have to cross the Pyrenees on the Route Napoleon consider taking the Express Bourricot shuttle (http://www.expressbourricot.com/en/persons-transport/) from the SJPDP Tourist Office to the Cross (La Croix Thibaut) (Point #6 on the Enclosed Map) near the Spanish boarder and you will be hiking the better part of the trail with some shade and water (shuttle leaves 8:30 AM and cost is 15 Euros)...and at the top of the mountain (Col de Lepoeder) (Point #9 on the Enclosed Map) take the nice mountain dirt road trail to the right to Roncevaux/Roncenvalles because if you go to the left the trail is very steep and you will never forget the crazy Spanish and Italian mountain bikers going downhill on this trail...but please consider the opinions of the locals on the day you decide to cross the Pyrenees on the Route Napoleon because I saw a lot of people quit and start hiking downhill because of the weather or injuries and once was enough for me in this lifetime...otherwise the lower Valcarlos Pyrenees pass trail from SJPDP to Roncevaux/Roncenvalles is much easier hiking and more like civilization with food and water...in Roncevaux/Roncenvalles make a reservation at Guest House La Posada (you will recognize it from the movie with great food and buy a ticket to the Pilgrim dinner as soon as you arrive in town...and also the early Pilgrim dinner if you want to attend the Pilgrim Blessing Service at the Catherdal) Hotel Roncenvalles (great buffet breakfast and take two hard boiled eggs for lunch), or Apartment Casa los Beneficiados because my experience includes a very long line to check-in at the albergue and longer line to the bathroom to take a shower and it is easier to hand wash and dry your clothes in a private room (Map Enclosed)...and in Pamplona consider any hotel near the Plaza del Castillo which is between the Camino and the bull fighting ring and you can find most of the hotels between SJPDP and Pamplona on Booking.com but reserve accommodations early for the best locations and prices...and after Pamplona I did not reserve any accommodations except in Santiago which again reserve early for best locations and prices.

 

[VNwalking]

On Monday morning there is a Farmers Market in SJPDP that also sells prepared food

I can wholeheartedly second this recommendation! Lots of fantastic bread and cheese and fruit, perfect for the next day. Also there is a small natural food store not far from the market that has some lovely treats...

 

[mcopeland]

I am no expert.

You can see some videos and commentary about day one here:

http://robscamino.com/28th-of-april-its-raining-saint-jean-to-orrison/
http://robscamino.com/saint-jean-to-orisson/
http://robscamino.com/day-1-to-orisson/

Thanks, Robo. I followed your blog last year - and you are an expert! And thanks to everyone else. I'll have to digest all of this and check out the map. I did think it would be cool to "cross the Pyrenees" on the Napoleon route, but maybe the lower route will be more practical for us. We'll see how our training goes between now and then. We're off this afternoon to walk in our nearby state park - the first the weather's been nice enough in a while. Mary

 

[Robo]

Thanks, Robo. I followed your blog last year - and you are an expert! And thanks to everyone else. I'll have to digest all of this and check out the map. I did think it would be cool to "cross the Pyrenees" on the Napoleon route, but maybe the lower route will be more practical for us. We'll see how our training goes between now and then. We're off this afternoon to walk in our nearby state park - the first the weather's been nice enough in a while. Mary

Glad you enjoyed the blog, but no expert by any stretch of the imagination! Good luck with your choices and Buen Camino....

 

[vgen5122]

Ok,I will confess. I will be at least the third slow walker on the Camino at the end of August. I do 17-20km on a good day. My first Camino, I had foot issues coming down from the Pyrenees and it it took me five days to get to Pamplona. One day was spent in Larrasoana buying new shoes. This year we will travel the same route but I will have made a few adjustments to my foot wear.
Your foot wear is so important. Good luck and Buen Camino.

 

[VNwalking]

I did think it would be cool to "cross the Pyrenees" on the Napoleon route, but maybe the lower route will be more practical for us.

You'd be crossing the Pyrenees on an even older route--called Valcarlos because Charlemagne and many others--including thousands of pilgrims) came this way. And it is 'crossing,' without a doubt. Many of the kms after Valcarlos are plenty steep, and seriously uphill. I don't buy into the 'less than' idea about this route that now has gained general traction. It's fantastic.

 

[mspath]

Viranani is so right! Be sure to read more re the Valcarlos route, the original route through the mountain pass, in this earlier Forum thread https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/sjpp-to-roncesvalles-–-in-praise-of-the-lower-route.16075/

 

[VNwalking]

Thank you, Margaret, for that link. I walked the Valcarlos way because of weather and am SO glad I 'had to' because otherwise I'd have been sucked into the prevailing culture of preference for the Napoleon. It was a truly contemplative and beautiful day, one of the best of the entire journey.

 

[Robert V J Varman ofs]

I intend to start at SJPdP about Wednesday because weekends are known to be busy but so can the first day or two of the weekdays be. The idea is to avoid a wave of walkers which can effect over-demand for accommodation for several days down the track. Does anyone know if there are any figures for the numbers of people leaving on days of the week from SJPdP?

 

[DowtyCamino]

It's interesting looking at the Brierley Guide now, having walked the CF. And accepting that I am a slow walker...

But even so, I can't imagine doing St Jean to Pamplona in three days. Unless really fit and very used to hiking long distances that is.

The first day would be a very 'big' day for most people, St Jean to Roncesvalles. 27 kms plus the height.....gain and loss.

Then another 27 km to Larrasoana on tired legs, including the steep descent into Zubiri. I think that would finish me off....

Then a much easier 20 to just past Pamplona.

I'm not sure I could do it Do many people?

For an experienced hiker OK....

A couch potato like me? No way

Actually, my wife and I did exactly that. Pamplona (actualy past Pamplona) in 3 days. I'm not saying this to brag, but to caution. We did this because 1) we were in good shape and 2) I wanted to push early in the Camino as a buffer for any later issues. I would HIGHLY recommend that no one follow our example. There is no need, and we suffered as a result. What can I say...we were "Camino young" and hadn't gotten out of the competitive/corporate U.S. mindset. Next time will be different.

 

[gypsywind]

In four days it would be:

SJPdP to Orrison
Orrison to Roncesvalles
Roncesvalles to Zubiri
Zubiri to Pamplona

Three days would be indeed a bit harsh at the beginning. Buen Camino, SY

SYATES, do you know much about Valcarlos? I am hearing a lot about snow, and orrison maybe not opening yet, so sadly I feel I may miss Orrison. If Orrison isn't open, is there a place not too much further along the trail after Orrison that would be sure to be open?

 

[Tincatinker]

@gypsywind there is no accommodation on the Napoleon route after Orrison until you reach Roncevalles, nor is there any real shelter. The Route Napoleon is officially closed until at least the end of March.

The link provided by @mspath above will take you to a very informative thread on the Valcarlos route.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

We could work this backwards.

Get into Pamplona early on Saturday (your anniversary) and leave after Sunday's noon mass at the cathedral (a good way to start the camino and it is just a short distance to the albergues in Cizor Minor.) From Zabaldika (one of our favorite stays was at the parroquial albergue there) it will be just a 3 to 4 hour walk to Pamplona. From Roncevalles it is about 35 km to Zabaldika so a stop halfway looks like what you need. That would be around 17 km or 10 miles and Viskaretta at 12 km from Roncevalles would be your place. Pensión Corazón Puro there may even be helpful getting you from Pamplona to St. Jean in the first place. http://www.corazonpuro.es/Enghome.html

So:
leave St Jean Tuesday,
leave Orrison or Valcarlos Wednesday,
leave Roncevalles Thursday,
leave Viskaretta Friday,
leave Zabaldika Saturday,
leave Pamplona Sunday,
leave Cizor Menor Monday

Five days to Pamplona. Slow enough to get you used to walking. Plenty of time to explore Pamplona without an extra day there. An easy day before you climb the Alto de Perdon. And you don't leave St. Jean on the busier weekend.