My not so secret tip for this etapa : Acogida in Pedra Furada with the wonderful Antonio Martins ( big jazzfan ! ) and his two sisters. Exceptional cuisine!
Albergue with four beds but also private rooms.
And, while in Pedra Furada, don't miss the namesake mysterious stone with a hole through it. The story is that a saint was buried alive and escaped by punching his head through this rock. The hole isnt perfectly round, so it wasnt a millstone. I suspect it is Roman in origin, but who knows.
On 27 September I stayed at Casa Maria in Pedro Furada, private hostel I was only guest in 6 bed dorm.Also private rooms. 15€ . Restaurant nearby. Small sign is easy to miss, it's on the right hand side of the road heading to Barcellos.