Since many suggestions are in the last quarter of the CF I’ll chime in.
Albergue Leo in VillaFranca del Bierzo – very nice, excellent owner family
Bar La P’tit Pause in VillaFranca del Bierzo – excellent food and owner
El Refugio – restaurant and albergue in La Faba. 5 Km before O’Cebriero. Excellent food and operators.
I tend to get carried away when I comment on this forum so if you’re a “just the facts” kind of person, stop here and save yourself the impending frustration.
Albergue Leo in VillaFranca del Bierzo was a really nice experience. It’s an old house converted into in an Albergue. It feels authentic and upscale and intimate relative to the more typical warehouse Albergue experience. There are many rooms and I can only tell you about the room I stayed in. I was on the second floor, there were 2 sets of bunk beds and one single bed in my room. The mattress was very comfortable. We had a private bathroom/shower that was recently remodeled and was 4/5 star in cleanliness, beauty, workmanship and functionality. I believe the family also lives here. The mother and daughter are incredibly friendly, helpful and sincere as is the father who did most of the bartending. The lobby has a good feel and some room to relax and there is a tiny bar to get a cold beer or whatever you desire. When walking down the stairs you can see into the kitchen. Unfortunately they don’t offer dinner to their guests but they have a huge dinning room table. The night I was there they had what appeared to be a large family dinner (12+ people at the table) or perhaps it was a special occasion and local friends were also invited for this dinner party?? I don’t know but it was fun to observe the laughter and exuberant dinner experience they had. It could only have been better if I spoke spanish and had been sitting with them all. The included breakfast was tea/coffee, bread/toast and EXCELLENT jam along with a huge bowl of fresh cherries which were in season when we walked through here in mid June. I was planning to walk further this day and stopped in Leo only to ask about a place to eat lunch nearby. They referred me to Bar La P’tit Pause about 5 minutes back and up towards the Plaza Mayor. It was a tiny, informal, unimpressive looking place with 4 tables inside and 3 tables outside. The outside tables were simple but nicely decorated. The food was Excellent in both taste and presentation. I could have eaten a bit cheaper but this was well worth the small additional expense. The food was so good I decided to stay in town that night so I could go back for dinner. I checked with the owner to make sure they were open for dinner. He told me he was making the best lasagna I would every eat for dinner that night. He was right. I ate the pilgrim dinners 80% of the time. That might have contributed to my enhanced appreciation of the food at this place but I truly believe it was unusually good.
I had a chance the next day for another incredible food and people experience at El Refugio in La Faba. My destination this day was O’ Cebriero. I was walking with someone who also wanted to get there and I had communicated to someone else the day before that I would meet them for dinner that evening in O’ Cebriero so I had to be there. It was my only appointment of the camino. If not for the prearranged date, I would have stayed at El Refugio to experience the dinner, get more time with this lovely cooking couple and then spent the night in the 9 bed albergue. Never in my life have I had the thought…”I’d like to eat at a vegetarian restaurant today”. I’ve never been to a vegetarian restaurant. The operators and cooks (not owners) of this place were incredibly beautiful souls and extremely talented in the kitchen. They were free spirits that traveled the world and had been in this spot for a couple of years. Some would refer to them as hippies and I can’t disagree but only if your mind is filled with every possible positive thing you associate with the word hippy. They stayed with others in a home across the street where they grew all the vegetables and raised chickens etc… These people were very special, magnetic, creative, beautiful…I just wanted to stay there with them for a few months, sharing meals, weeding the garden, feeding the chickens, playing with their kids and new puppy. I had my first Lentil burger and a wonderful salad and a few Estrellas for lunch. This food was as good as anything I’ve ever eaten. Everything was perfect in the world during that short hour. I did not see the room and beds but I will stay there if I do the CF again and that same couple is there. The only criticism I’ve read about the place is there is just one shower for 9 people but everyone noting that deficit still gives them 5 out of 5 stars. Apparently there is another very highly regarded Albergue in La Faba with 60+ beds and great garden area. I think I heard it was a German fraternity. So, if you get to La Faba and you are not up for another 5km of steep hill climbing, reward yourself with a meal and overnight in this incredibly quaint little village. O’Cebriero does feel like Disney Land compared to the beauty and authenticity of this place.
The picture is of the beautiful chef at El Refugio in La Faba