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LIVE from the Camino BobY333 on the Primitivo

BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
Day 1

Left Oviedo around 7:30. That seems to be my routine. Oh my how perspectives change. I saw 13 peregrinos by 10:15 - it’s crowded out here :)

About 15 km into the walk my feet were starting to bark. I was hoping that I’d be able to stick them into the river that I could hear. Sure enough about 1 km later there was the river bank and my feet were happy. But of course the Camino always provides a bit more :). There was a group peregrinos also at the river and they offered up their bota bag with wine and an empanada. What a nice break!

I caught up to the same group a little bit later. We were walking together for a while and they were going to take a left when Camino was going to the right. I said see you later and they said, “no no come with us”. That was great because it was a short detour to ancient Roman hot springs that also happen to have skulls and bones imbedded in the side. Very cool!

As far as the Camino itself goes, the stage had a lot of asphalt and concrete surfaces along with some nice trails through the woods and by the river. But it does seem to be dominated by asphalt. That was in part my own fault because as I got close to Grado completely missed the turn into the trail. So I came into town on a stretch of industrial wasteland kind of like walking into Burgos if you miss the river trail… Like we did when we were on the Francés!

Well the day wrapped up with some fun. I was walking along and caught up to a man and son. I immediately recognized the father from his profile picture on the Ivar forum! So of course I walked up and said I think you’re from Cumbria England right? He looked at me and said, “is it that obvious?” And I then told him how I knew :) They’re staying at San Juan de Villapañada as well - there are just 6 of us there.

We spent a few hours chatting with the hospitalero Domingo who was great. Gave us our stamps, lots of stories, and was really a very gracious host. One of the girls was given tasks by her family and friends to do while on Camino. Fun things for the most part. So they decided that they would give each of us a task drawn out of a hat. I get to order food that I have not eaten before.

 
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BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
Sorry, I honestly don’t remember exactly where! It was by one of the many St. Eululia churches. If you follow the Relive map you can see it. There was also a sign to make a left turn to go and see it. I think they’re called “Termas”?
 

LavanyaLea

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances (May/June 2022)
I think they’re called “Termas”?
Found it! It's called Termas Romanas de Valduno, it's marked on google maps but somehow can't "share" the place, although people have written reviews. So I'm sharing my Camino POIs/detours (public list) LOL. The thermal bath is the last one added/top of the list. Why were there skulls there!!!
 
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BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
Day 2: SJdV - Bodenaya

The day started with the first spectacular sunrise I’ve seen. Magnificent.

I spent much of the day on my own. The only time I was with other peregrinos was when I stopped for a café, and it was nice to sit and chat for a while. Got to Salas and took a break for a quick bite to eat, and then conquered the long steady climb to Bodenaya. I’m really glad I got that done in the afternoon and didn’t start with that in the morning!!!

David’s Albuerge in Bodenaya was completo, but there was plenty of space in the other nearby albergues for others that I knew that had come this far.

The vibe in Bodenaya is very cool. David and his partner make you feel very welcome. I had them totally confused when I arrived though. I had a reservation for Robert Young on a UK telephone number, and the two Germans Frank and Frank had told David that an American named Paco was coming along. So when I arrived, he offered me a beer and asked where I was staying. I said “Here!” and he said “no, sorry, we are completo”. I can completely understand the confusion.

The next morning I woke up to the special Bodenaya morning. I won’t give it away so that others can enjoy!

 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
They’re staying at San Juan de Villapañada as well - there are just 6 of us there.

That’s about one-third capacity, if I remember right. Did Domingo make your dinner? When I was there, we all donated some food we had brought up from Grado and then he organized the menú and assigned the chores. It is such a beautiful place.

Peregrinos who can walk beyond Grado a few more km will not be disappointed — I bet he is rarely full and it is so loverly!
 

BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
A 7:45 AM start. It was a beautiful day for a 31K walk. Still very few pilgrims along the way.

The morning was blessed with a beautiful shaded dirt path walk - and a wonderful breeze. The sun was shining on the pastures and it’s just a great day!

Met a fun group of ladies at the top of a hill at an incredible vista. Some from South Africa, others from the US. It turns out the South Africans are also Casa Ivar forum members :)

Walked for a good while with the Frenchman Gil who started 8 weeks ago in Vézelay, France. Time and k’s pass so much more quickly when you’re having a nice conversation. Stopped in Campiello for lunch because I was hungry for once. The menu of the day was a huge portion of lentil soup, a bacalao fish, desert of requesón and wine or water. I ate so much that I couldn’t even touch dinner.

Segi joined me for the second half of lunch and had something similar. We had a really nice conversation. Then I was glad that I had reserved at Samblismo because, honestly, Campiello felt a little like a truckstop.

A nice evening with friends in Samblismo and then a decent night’s sleep although one of the German Franks is a snorer and he was in my room of four.

Samblismo was full last night and is full again tonight - so if you’re interested in staying at these “popular” or “iconic” albergues, it’s smart to call two days ahead.

 
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BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
That’s about one-third capacity, if I remember right. Did Domingo make your dinner? When I was there, we all donated some food we had brought up from Grado and then he organized the menú and assigned the chores. It is such a beautiful place.

Peregrinos who can walk beyond Grado a few more km will not be disappointed — I bet he is rarely full and it is so loverly!
He didn’t make dinner this time. When I asked if I needed to bring food he suggested I eat in Grado before coming to the albergue. The others were also in their own. He did say that if I was hungry he would figure something out.

I’m guessing this all was at least in part to it being a Sunday. He must have had other family obligations because he didn’t come by the albergue until fairly late (6ish?).

In any event, once he got there, he was a treat. I thought he was leaving, and the next thing you know we were standing by the map and talking for at least another half hour!
 

BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
Got up, had the usual tostada and coffee breakfast, then had to solve the mystery of the missing socks before leaving to tackle the Hospitales route.

I’m glad I walked the San Salvador because it prepared me for the hills of the Hospitales. It is breathtaking and majestic. The views are magnificent. And, seeing wild horses including a colt was the cherry on top :)

The one “downside” was that the weather was predicted to be cloudy, cool, and maybe rain. So, I wore pants and a long sleeve shirt. It was actually a partly sunny day, but very hot and still. It felt like an oven at times. I drank all 1.5 liters of water I brought, and was so happy when I got to Lago and there was water there.

Bendueños was a welcome sight at 23k. A light lunch and the all important energy drink (beer) fueled me for the last 5ish k’s into La Mesa. The albergue is very modern, but also very big. 16 people in this room alone (amazingly, just one snorer!). They were full except for a few no-shows, so today may be more crowded the next few days versus the previous days.

But, another great day!

 

BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
Today was my birthday and I walked to Castro. A “short” 23k day.

I saw Helena in the coed bathroom. We were both brushing our teeth. Then we had a good laugh when she said this is just about the oddest place I’ve ever wished someone a happy birthday!

The morning started with two café con Leche and a tostada at the albergue. Then up up up I went over the top of the hill and then down down down down down way down to the dam at Vistalegre. That was a difficult downhill for the legs, but they’re fine.

I took a rest and went to the museum of early life in Grandas de Salime. It was really very interesting…except for the fact that it had in its museum collection the EXACT dentist chair that I recall as a kid. Talk about making me feel old on my birthday!!!

It’s interesting that I am finding no other Americans and really no other native English speakers. I wonder where all the Aussies, Kiwis, Canadians, and Irish are? I literally haven’t met a single one. I wonder if I’m walking in my own little bubble, or if this is normal for the Primitivo?

The albergue “juvenil” at Castro is awesome. Great, though small, room, enthusiastic hospitaleras, amazing food (pork cheeks? They were wow!), and a really comfortable outdoor area. Really a top notch albergue! What a great way to spend my birthday.

 
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LavanyaLea

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances (May/June 2022)
Feliz cumple!!!! What a way to celebrate your birthday!

I disagree, there are Brits in the Primitivo too/just finished recently. I’m in my Salvador/Primitivo research “bubble” clearly. Instagram and YouTube are so dangerous!
 

BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
Feliz cumple!!!! What a way to celebrate your birthday!

I disagree, there are Brits in the Primitivo too/just finished recently. I’m in my Salvador/Primitivo research “bubble” clearly. Instagram and YouTube are so dangerous!
Yes, I have met a few Englishmen, but none of the others! Very strange based upon my past experience.
 

BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
Primitivo Day 7: Castro - O Piñeiral (25km)
A late 8:15 start today after waiting for coffee and a bit of breakfast. You guessed it, tostada again!

Last night was a lot of fun. And, it was a good night’s sleep which was great.

I don’t remember if I said this before but as much as I love seeing the little babies of spring, whether it be horses, calves, lambs, or other animals, I think I prefer the harvest of the fall when you can pick figs, grapes, and blackberries, and get a bit of nutrition while walking along and enjoying the way!

It’s a very still day today. The first hour and change was in the fog, but now it’s burning off to beautiful blue sky and sunshine. I think that’s a good thing, but we’ll see how hot it gets! Tomorrow is supposed to get up to 90 Fahrenheit which I think is about 31 or 32 Celsius. Wow!

A big shout out to señor Doug Otte, my high school Spanish teacher. He named me Paco and it has stuck :). I have visions of him with the maracas teaching us He, Has, Ha, Hemos, HAN. If anyone knows how to reach him, please send me a DM.

The fog came and went for the morning and so did a very refreshing breeze. Fonsagrada was in sight before 12, so it was a pretty early day. The climb into town was quite the heart pounder!

I stopped in town for lunch because David from Bodenaya said that there is a restaurant there that has better pulpo than in Melide, and indeed, it was great (O Candal)! A half portion of pulpo was enough for two of us.

Just a few of the group from Castro went on to O Piñeiral. The place is very nice and clean, but corporate - comfortable, but without the soul you feel in many albergues.

Spent the afternoon relaxing and getting cleaned up, doing the usual laundry, and watching the sheep in the back eat and eat and eat. Evening wrapped up with a fairly late dinner since the kitchen didn’t open until 8:30. The food was good, not great, but certainly good calories for the long walk the next day. Having my own room was a treat, especially since I didn’t have to sleep in the clothes that I was going to wear the next day!

 

BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
Camino Primitivo Day 8: O Piñeiral - Vilar de Cas (37km given my wrong turn!)

Super early start to the day at 6:15. The only problem was that I wanted to take the road to connect with the Camino since it was still pretty dark and I was concerned about rocks on the trail. I went the wrong way for a half a kilometer before thankfully I realized that that’s what I was doing. So, that blew 15 minutes of my day but that’s fine because I ran into the two peregrinos that I’ve been seeing the last few days.

Walked through the fog (and cold!) to get to Paradavella, where I enjoyed two very large coffees and a piece of carrot cake to fuel me for the next few hours.

At least three heart pounding uphills today. This Camino Primitivo is not flat! It’s definitely a challenge that you need to be ready for!

That being said, I further fueled up in Castroverde for the final 6km to Vilar de Cas, for a total day at 37 km. That was my longest walking day ever ( though I have run further!). This leaves me with a very short day into Lugo tomorrow, so I will be able to enjoy that walled city for more time.

The albergue here is really very nice. Spacious and decked out! It’s not cheap by Camino standards (E18), but it’s super comfortable.

Given the crowds I’ve heard about on the Francés, and that I want to get into Santiago on Wednesday, I’ve booked my beds for the balance of this trip - that’s a weight off my mind, though it’s odd to think that the end of this adventure is coming into view!

 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Walked through the fog (and cold!) to get to Paradavella, where I enjoyed two very large coffees and a piece of carrot cake to fuel me for the next few hours.
Is this the place right on the camino with picnic tables outside? Last year when I walked by it was closed and for sale. Hoping it has reopened with new management!
 
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BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
Is this the place right on the camino with picnic tables outside? Last year when I walked by it was closed and for sale. Hoping it has reopened with new management!
Yes! I left O Piñeiral (after my wrong turn) at 6:30 and it was open when I got there at 8:25. The man who helped was great, and his wife came by later and was very nice also. A great selection of sweet and savory to go along with your coffee!
 

BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
Camino Primitivo Day 8: O Piñeiral - Vilar de Cas (37km given my wrong turn!)

Super early start to the day at 6:15. The only problem was that I wanted to take the road to connect with the Camino since it was still pretty dark and I was concerned about rocks on the trail. I went the wrong way for a half a kilometer before thankfully I realized that that’s what I was doing. So, that blew 15 minutes of my day but that’s fine because I ran into the two peregrinos that I’ve been seeing the last few days.

Walked through the fog (and cold!) to get to Paradavella, where I enjoyed two very large coffees and a piece of carrot cake to fuel me for the next few hours.

At least three heart pounding uphills today. This Camino Primitivo is not flat! It’s definitely a challenge that you need to be ready for!

That being said, I further fueled up in Castroverde for the final 6km to Vilar de Cas, for a total day at 37 km. That was my longest walking day ever ( though I have run further!). This leaves me with a very short day into Lugo tomorrow, so I will be able to enjoy that walled city for more time.

The albergue here is really very nice. Spacious and decked out! It’s not cheap by Camino standards (E18), but it’s super comfortable.

Given the crowds I’ve heard about on the Francés, and that I want to get into Santiago on Wednesday, I’ve booked my beds for the balance of this trip - that’s a weight off my mind, though it’s odd to think that the end of this adventure is coming into view!

Oh - and here in Vilar de Cas at A Pociña de Muñiz, there are 5 of us in the bunks - very empty!
 

Vagabonder

Member
Past OR future Camino
Le Puy to SJPP (2019)
Oh - and here in Vilar de Cas at A Pociña de Muñiz, there are 5 of us in the bunks - very empty!
I loved that albergue! We splurged on a double room and it was like staying in a place out of history. And the dinner was super delicious and abondant. And we arrived in Lugo mid day and had lots of time to explore.
 

BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
I loved that albergue! We splurged on a double room and it was like staying in a place out of history. And the dinner was super delicious and abondant. And we arrived in Lugo mid day and had lots of time to explore.
Yes - it’s really a beautifully restored, incredible place. The artwork is pretty amazing too!

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BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
Camino Primitivo Day 8 : Vilar de Cas - Lugo (the real day 8!)

Last night we had a delicious, home cooked meal that ended with homemade quince on manchego cheese and chupitas of heirbas. That got me to sleep easily! But, despite a mostly empty dorm, all it takes is one snorer to disrupt a good night’s sleep….

This morning started with a nice simple breakfast and good coffee and fresh squeezed orange juice. Fuel for a short walk ahead to Lugo, just 16 km. It’s calling for showers today, but the walk was in sunshine and some clouds.

I am glad that I put those last 6 km under my feet yesterday afternoon after a nice rest in Castroverde. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t difficult either. And, I had plenty of time so that makes my day in Lugo a few hours longer which is what I wanted.

I should have taken a picture of the sign in the road that said basically, “Your EU tax dollars at work.” I’ve definitely seen signs of improvements in this section. There are some new mojones, and what was very noticeable was that there were at least two sections of brand new boardwalk along the side of a busy highway or two that I imagine were fairly treacherous in the past. Now the peregrinos are safely well to the side and off the road

I guess this could be my last morning walking completely by myself. Once I get to Lugo I think that’s right at the 100 km from Santiago, meaning that people that start there are eligible to get their Compostela. Also, I will be joining up with the Camino Francés soon, and that will be sure to bring crowds.

I guess it shouldn’t be surprising since I’m coming up on a major city, but there was a lot of road walking today. And, except for a few pretty little villages, like Gondar, today’s walk was pretty non-descript.

I made it into Lugo and the Roman walls are very impressive. The cathedral is nice too and some of the town looks OK. Maybe it’s just that it was a Sunday morning and pretty empty, but other than those few things my first impression is that Lugo is not impressive. We’ll see it as the day goes by.

What’s been great about Lugo is that it’s a bottleneck. The next town with accommodation is about 19 km on, so everyone is here tonight regardless of how far they had walked yesterday. That’s great fun. A few glasses of wine wrapped up the night. Cinco Vigas was awesome for tapas. I mean wow. Put that one in your notes!

We did have to say goodbye to Helena from Germany because she had to get back home for work. It’s always sad to see a fellow Camino family member leave, but it’s all good!

 
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BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
Camino Primitivo Day 9: Lugo - as Seixas

The day started with a good breakfast at the Buffay at the hotel, including three big cups of coffee. Then out of Lugo I went on my own, but soon caught up with a number of peregrinos. There’s a group from a university out on the Camino at the moment and I saw many of them. But after about 10 km, the rain began and they Camino send out. So, like most other days I’ve been walking on my own and only seeing people when there are rest stops.

I did refuel at one of them with one of my favorite things, a Magnum ice cream bar :)

A highlight of the day was seeing a newborn calf and its mother laying in a field. Very cool!

Then fueled up in Ferreira with an ensalada mista and a cerveza. Just 7 km to end the stage.

The private Albuerge is not well signed, there’s only a sign for the municipal. So, I walked through the village and then had to Google map the location to realize that I have gone to far. Not a big deal, but it added a bit at the end of a long day.

The day wound up with pleasant sunshine and we drank some wine and watched a local farmer feed his sheep, which was really quite amusing.

There are two fellow peregrinos that I’ve been spending a fair amount of time with. Get this, there is a group of eight of them that met in 2015 on the Camino Francés and they all get together at each other‘s homes throughout Europe several times a year. Talk about a Camino family!

 

BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
Camino Primitivo Day 10: as Seixas - As Quintas (Burres)

A 725 start today after the usual tostada but a special treat for coffee, they had a real drip coffee maker and that was great!


A cool, peaceful morning on secluded trails. It’s really nice and I’ll take this all Lynn because maybe they is coming up and it’s reportedly a mob scene once I get there. I have to reframe my expectations so that all will be good even once the trail gets crowded.

How many times do I have to tell myself not to look at the kilometer markings on each Galician mojon??? :) There are a lot of kilometers to knock down today, and it makes me think of a saying I heard a few years ago. “How does a mouse eat an elephant? One bite at a time! “

After the first few very pleasant kilometers on soft trails, the Camino turned into all road and asphalt. Not very good for the feet but it is what it is and I’ve come to accept it.

The other thing I need to accept is that there will be many more people out here. I passed a bus that was letting off a group of “Nordic walkers”. Fortunately, I got there just as they were unloading so I was able to put plenty of distance between them and me.

Once I got to Melide it definitely became more crowded in town and a bit more crowded out of town. I nearly doubled the count of Americans that I’ve met in just the first three hours since joining up with the Camino Francés - there’s nothing wrong with that, it’s just different!

It’s been an odd weather day. Clouds to begin, then some sun, and then rain. I managed to avoid a downpour by having lunch in a bar - it was quite the sacrifice :)

Arzua seemed to be a very popular stopping place. After that I only saw two other peregrinos. Much quieter and more like what I’m used to :)

Arrived at Heidi’s Place and was given the single room - score! And she told me the menu (which I can’t remember) and it sounded amazing!

It’s really hard to believe that I’ll arrive in Santiago tomorrow. Wow. One more longish day to go!

A few minutes ago I received a message from a friend that had decided to take the Verde variant. The place where he thought he had a bed did not have room for him. He’s had a tough few days and reached out to see if Heidi had any availability. She is a treasure! And she figured out a way to fit him in and when he gets here I’m sure he will be thrilled. As they say, the Camino provides!

 

BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
Camino Primitivo Day 11: As Quintas (Burres) Santiago!

The day started with a quick cup of coffee and some more amazing stories from Heidi. The main one was about how she acquired the house that ultimately, and quite by mistake, became the albergue that it is.

She had heard that it might be for sale because the woman that lived there had been moved into a nursing home. So, she asked around town and ultimately got in touch with the woman’s family. They said it was absolutely not for sale and never would be. That was in 2006 or 2007. Each year thereafter, Heidi walked two Caminos, and each time would stop by the family member’s home to ask about the house. She also had been taking farming classes of some sort. On the very last day of her last class, she got a call from the daughter of the owner - the house was for sale! And so began her journey to hospitalera! I’ll leave it to you to stay there and ask her about the transformation of the house from just her and Rolf’s place into an incredible peregrino albergue.

I was pleasantly surprised all day that it wasn’t a line of ants along the way. There were plenty of other peregrinos, but not nearly the crowds I was expecting. As well, much more of the way was in wooded paths than I remember. They must have changed the route since 2018 because it did not take us down the main road of oh Pedrouzo.

I walked most of the day with Hannes, but left him at a bar at 10km out so that he can experience the walk into Santiago on his own. And I could do the same!

It was amazing to come through the tunnel with the bagpiper and into the main plaza in front of the cathedral. I stayed there for quite some time enjoying the views and the people coming in. Hannes made it and we had beer to celebrate the end of our journey.

I then went and got my Compostela and we met up for dinner at a good tapas joint. We then went back to the square to listen to the traditional music under the arches. This was a perfect and fitting way to end today and the final stage of the Primitivo!

 
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BobY333

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Camino San Salvador/Primitivo May 2022 (planning!)
End note:

So what did I learn after 16 days and 400 km of walking almost entirely alone?

I learned that this body of mine is capable of doing pretty incredible things - regardless of the belly that I have always been self-conscious about. I have to let that go and embrace my body and all of its flaws. It can accomplish a lot when I set my mind to it!

I also learned that I actually like prayer. I had always been self-conscious about it for whatever strange reason. But, I’ve come to feel like even if it puts just a little bit of positive energy out into the world to try and help people that need it, I feel good. I also feel the need to give thanks for all the incredible blessings that I have been given - because they’re certainly nothing that I have earned. I don’t know why I’ve been chosen to be blessed in such a magnificent and incredible way. But I’m beyond thankful and grateful for it. So I feel the need to say thanks, often.

I also learned in telling my story to a few people that I have unresolved feelings about what I experienced on 9/11. Now I have to figure out how to sort that out.

On a lighter note. I really like communicating in Spanish. My comprehension skills improved dramatically on this trip because there were many days where the only language spoken was Spanish. Now I have to work more on my speaking skills. But, it was fun to struggle with the language while trying to make myself understood among my new Spanish friends… including thanking Javier for paying for the magazine (which drew a confused look) when I meant for lunch (which then drew laughter from all)! 😂

As the saying goes, my Camino did not end in Santiago…it has only just begun!
 
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End note:

So what did I learn after 16 days and 400 km of walking almost entirely alone?

I learned that this body of mine is capable of doing pretty incredible things - regardless of the belly that I have always been self-conscious about. I have to let that go and embrace my body and all of its flaws. It can accomplish a lot when I set my mind to it!

I also learned that I actually like prayer. I had always been self-conscious about it for whatever strange reason. But, I’ve come to feel like even if it puts just a little bit of positive energy out into the world to try and help people that need it, I feel good. I also feel the need to give thanks for all the incredible blessings that I have been given - because they’re certainly nothing that I have earned. I don’t know why I’ve been chosen to be blessed in such a magnificent and incredible way. But I’m beyond thankful and grateful for it. So I feel the need to say thanks, often.

I also learned in telling my story to a few people that I have unresolved feelings about what I experienced on 9/11. Now I have to figure out how to sort that out.

On a lighter note. I really like communicating in Spanish. My comprehension skills improved dramatically on this trip because there were many days where the only language spoken was Spanish. Now I have to work more on my speaking skills. But, it was fun to struggle with the language while trying to make myself understood among my new Spanish friends… including thanking Javier for paying for the magazine (which drew a confused look) when I meant for lunch (which then drew laughter from all)! 😂

As the saying goes, my Camino did not end in Santiago…it has only just begun!
¡Muchísimas gracias! I appreciate your honest and simple reflection. Your camino journey has only just begun. 👣
 
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Primitivo.
Thank you! I agree - it was great to meet you and Evan. It was too bad our stages didn't line up better!
We got off to a slower start than anticipated, and Evan's blisters slowed us down after that. Waking him up in the mornings proved to be the first ordeal of the day and always led to a more relaxed start than I would have liked, and I'm not an early riser by any means. You already had your trail legs after the San Salvador and would have taken some keeping up with anyway.
I think that we were very lucky with the weather though. It only rained on three of the days I was on Camino, the other days were glorious.
This reminds me that I must get around to writing my trip report before the memories turn into half truths and rose-tinted nostalgia.
 

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