LIVE from the Camino BobY333 on the San Salvador (otra vez!)

[BobY333]

After a very long travel day, we made it to León at about 10:30 PM. We definitely eased our way into this Camino by spending two nights there and a virtual lap of luxury. After two good nights sleep, and enjoying the beautiful city of Leon, we set off on our first leg at about 9 AM Saturday morning. That’s late by Camino standards!

We fueled up with coffee and tortilla across the way and started our journey to La Robla. The walk out of León is pleasant enough when you walk along the river. We stopped in Carbajal for more coffee and a churro, and the bar man gave us each the souvenir buttons of the Camino Del San Salvador.

We encountered a mixed day weather-wise. We started the day in beautiful, chilly weather, but by 1 o’clock it had started raining. That only lasted for about a half an hour, fortunately, and the sun made another appearance. All in all, it was a good day for walking.

We also had the same bugs that I had last year, but we had come prepared with bug netting to put over our heads, and that was magical!

We met just two other pilgrims along the way - a couple from France who had started walking from their home on March 10! Wow!!!

We confirmed that the bar in Cascantes has closed, so we detoured for a needed cerveza and tapa in La Seca - it’s really not that far off-Camino, so I’d definitely recommend it.

After what seemed like an eternity, we finally pulled into La Robla and got to Posada La Milana. We rested, washed up, did laundry in the machine for free (!) and got out to get groceries for the next day, since there would be few services the next few days.

We then had dinner at Pension Mundo where I stayed last year. Sure enough, the French couple was there having dinner also. They invited us to join their table, and get this: they were sitting with three other pilgrims from their hometown who had started their own Camino in March about 10 days after them. They had taken totally different routes and La Robla was the only town where their routes intercepted along the entire road to Santiago…and somehow they were in the same town on the same day. Unbelievable Camino magic!

We had a simple dinner of a mixed salad and plentiful wine with the group. One thing that was great fun was that the owner recognized me immediately when she saw me - she remembered that I had stayed there last year and was thrilled to see me again.

We went back to the posada, Suzanne beat me up at Skip Bo, we drank a glass of wine and said good night, after a very long first day. This Camino is no walk in the park, and we haven’t even gotten to the mountains!

Relive 'Camino San Salvador Day 1: León > La Robla (29k)'

View my hike: Camino San Salvador Day 1: León > La Robla (29k)

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[Jan Jones]

Buen Camino - I started last a Sunday and I’m in Mieres tonight , much slower than you , what a glorious Camino it is. In hindsight it was probably a tad reckless to walk it alone as the slowest person on the trail - one rolled ankle and no one would find me until the first pilgrim came along the next day. But hey , I didn’t roll an ankle and I am so happy.

If you spend the night in Pola de Lena the Restaurant Filanguiru served me the most delicious pilgrims‘ dinner and the women who run Hotel la Payareta are really special.

 

[peregrina2000]

Buen camino, Bob.

I never heard of Posada la Milana, looks very nice. What a smart idea to bring that bug netting. I guess you wouldn’t have been disappointed if they had stayed in your pack, but it is a very low-weight luxury.

the women who run Hotel la Payareta are really special.

Totally agree, they are extremely nice. I was there in 2021, when the closure of the albergue was giving them a huge bump and they were actually a bit frazzled. Not complaining mind you, but running themselves a bit ragged, because they also run the bar that’s there on the road right before you get to the hotel. I hope they continue to do well, these small family run places are disappearing in Spaiin just like everywhere else, and they add a special something that you just can’t get in a chain.

Too bad Ender is off in the US visiting family and won’t be making his nightly visits for another month or so.

 

[HoosierOldLady]

This Camino is no walk in the park, and we haven’t even gotten to the mountains!

I'm so looking forward to walking the San Salvador! I will begin around June 8-10 (depending on how long it takes me to walk from Logroño to León). Did you pick up the special credential for the San Salvador in León?

 

[BobY333]

I'm so looking forward to walking the San Salvador! I will begin around June 8-10 (depending on how long it takes me to walk from Logroño to León). Did you pick up the special credential for the San Salvador in León?

We did - you get it at the municipal hostel after 11am. I think it was 2 euros?

Buen Camino!

 

[El Cascayal]

we set off on our first leg

So excited for you! Yeayyyyyyy! Are you staying in Pajares and or Bendueños? Hope you have a great time and Buen Camino!!!

 

[BobY333]

Day 2: La Robla > Poladura de la Tercia. Another late start at 8:45. I guess that means we’re sleeping well, but also that we were hoping that a café would be open for coffee. But, it being Sunday morning, the town was closed. We went and made our first pitstop at Buen Suceso. Unfortunately, the bar is closed because the owner is jubilado (retired - great word!). We had packed a monster sandwich, so we enjoyed a small part of that outside at the chapel at a picnic bench.

After a bit of a rest, we made our way another 4K invite to Pola de Gordon where we thoroughly enjoyed our first (and second) coffees. The tortilla and the sponge cake that came with it was a great bonus!

So, we were fueled up for the asphalt walk to Buiza, and then the strenuous climb up and over the mountains. Along the way, we saw a shepherd tending to her sheep. Also, Suzanne thought that the wolf on the lookout was real (at least for a moment). At this point we had “invested” a day and a half of fine walking, but the return on that investment was about to begin.

The track up and out of Buiza is a doozy. Practically straight up: +370m over just 3K and you start at 3700’ altitude! But, poco a poco, we made it. And, the payoff is amazing views, amazing. This day and the next were the reason I needed to bring Suzanne and walk this Camino again.

I could go on about the views, but I won’t Just watch the video!

We stopped and soaked our feet in a cold mountain steam - what a treat. Totally worth the hassle of taking shoes and socks off and on.

We missed the unmarked path across the farmer’s field to Poladura, so we made the decision to go “off piste” and take the road from San Martin to Poladura. The only vehicle we saw on the short road section was the bakery van honking its horn and delivering its bread.

We stayed at Posada el Embrujo and enjoyed relaxing in the yard and spending time with our French friends. Dinner was at 7 (sharp!) and we asked Carlos, the other peregrino to join us. He spoke no English, but we had a nice conversation with my bit of Spanish and improvising. It was a great stay!

It’s interesting and definitely different walking with Suzanne instead of being on my own. I’m hoping she’s enjoying it as much as I did, and I’m worrying about her Achilles which is acting up (not good given the ups and downs we’re in for). But, even after 33+ years of marriage, we’re very encouraging and appreciative of each other, and we have a ton of laughs - including playing cards where she keeps beating me So, different, but just as wonderful a Camino!

Relive 'San Salvador Day 2: La Robla > Poladura (Wowza!)'

View my hike: San Salvador Day 2: La Robla > Poladura (Wowza!)

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[Beth and Rodney]

This all sounds great and is a big help! I'm starting the Salvador on May 19. Anything you can share with me will be appreciated!

Buen Camino!!!

 

[HoosierOldLady]

Day 2: La Robla > Poladura de la Tercia. Another late start at 8:45. I guess that means we’re sleeping well, but also that we were hoping that a café would be open for coffee. But, it being Sunday morning, the town was closed. We went and made our first pitstop at Buen Suceso. Unfortunately, the bar is closed because the owner is jubilado (retired - great word!). We had packed a monster sandwich, so we enjoyed a small part of that outside at the chapel at a picnic bench.

After a bit of a rest, we made our way another 4K invite to Pola de Gordon where we thoroughly enjoyed our first (and second) coffees. The tortilla and the sponge cake that came with it was a great bonus!

So, we were fueled up for the asphalt walk to Buiza, and then the strenuous climb up and over the mountains. Along the way, we saw a shepherd tending to her sheep. Also, Suzanne thought that the wolf on the lookout was real (at least for a moment). At this point we had “invested” a day and a half of fine walking, but the return on that investment was about to begin.

The track up and out of Buiza is a doozy. Practically straight up: +370m over just 3K and you start at 3700’ altitude! But, poco a poco, we made it. And, the payoff is amazing views, amazing. This day and the next were the reason I needed to bring Suzanne and walk this Camino again.

I could go on about the views, but I won’t Just watch the video!

We stopped and soaked our feet in a cold mountain steam - what a treat. Totally worth the hassle of taking shoes and socks off and on.

We missed the unmarked path across the farmer’s field to Poladura, so we made the decision to go “off piste” and take the road from San Martin to Poladura. The only vehicle we saw on the short road section was the bakery van honking its horn and delivering its bread.

We stayed at Posada el Embrujo and enjoyed relaxing in the yard and spending time with our French friends. Dinner was at 7 (sharp!) and we asked Carlos, the other peregrino to join us. He spoke no English, but we had a nice conversation with my bit of Spanish and improvising. It was a great stay!

It’s interesting and definitely different walking with Suzanne instead of being on my own. I’m hoping she’s enjoying it as much as I did, and I’m worrying about her Achilles which is acting up (not good given the ups and downs we’re in for). But, even after 33+ years of marriage, we’re very encouraging and appreciative of each other, and we have a ton of laughs - including playing cards where she keeps beating me So, different, but just as wonderful a Camino!

Relive 'San Salvador Day 2: La Robla > Poladura (Wowza!)'

View my hike: San Salvador Day 2: La Robla > Poladura (Wowza!)

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Have you seen many other peregrinos along the way? Was there plenty of room at the albergue?

 

[peregrina2000]

and I’m worrying about her Achilles which is acting up (not good given the ups and downs we’re in for

I think that a bigger issue may be the huge stretch of asphalt/pavement from Pola de Gordón into Mieres and then beyond. I am no PT, but I have occasional flare-ups of tendonitis when I walk on a lot of asphalt. My PT has told me that it’s because when you walk on asphalt, the repetitive foot strike is always the same and. Walking on dirt, trails, etc, doesn’t run the same risk. As soon as I feel the pain/discomfort starting in my shins, I stop and start stretching (lots of videos online, here’s one.). It happened to me last year leaving Salamanca on the pavement, and I immediately incorporated a few of these stretches into my daily routine. Icing is also good.

Good luck! Hoping for good weather for the etapa reina!

 

[BobY333]

This all sounds great and is a big help! I'm starting the Salvador on May 19. Anything you can share with me will be appreciated!

Buen Camino!!!

Just make sure you read Ender’s guide and you’ll be fine. Food can get tricky in a few places if you’re not aware. But, this is an amazing Camino. Enjoy!

 

[BobY333]

Have you seen many other peregrinos along the way? Was there plenty of room at the albergue?

There are few of us out here. In Poladura there were 6 in Embrujo (us and 4 Brazilians). In the albergue there were 4 (our French friends and two Spaniards).

Tonight in Pajares there are just 5 of us, so we have our own room, and the 3 Brazilian guys have their own room. The 4 Brazilians from Poladura are staying at Bar el Mirador.

So, no bed issues at all here!

 

[BobY333]

I think that a bigger issue may be the huge stretch of asphalt/pavement from Pola de Gordón into Mieres and then beyond. I am no PT, but I have occasional flare-ups of tendonitis when I walk on a lot of asphalt. My PT has told me that it’s because when you walk on asphalt, the repetitive foot strike is always the same and. Walking on dirt, trails, etc, doesn’t run the same risk. As soon as I feel the pain/discomfort starting in my shins, I stop and start stretching (lots of videos online, here’s one.). It happened to me last year leaving Salamanca on the pavement, and I immediately incorporated a few of these stretches into my daily routine. Icing is also good.

Good luck! Hoping for good weather for the etapa reina!

Thank you! Suzanne’s Achilles did much better today. We’ll see what tomorrow brings. Thanks for the stretching tips - they’ll be put to good use!

We had perfect weather across the mountains. Just wow. Rain is heading in. The hospitalera here in Pajares said it’s going to be bad for a week or so - including the possibility of snow!?!

So, I plan to post to the group looking for suggestions about “calling an audible”. The weather further south looks fine. We’ll finish the San Salvador in Oviedo on Thursday, but may change plans away from the Primitivo. Maybe the Francés from Astorga and then on to Fisterra? (It may be crowded and we’ve done it before). Maybe get to Ponferrada and walk the Invierno/Sanabres? I know nothing about these routes. I’d love your thoughts - though maybe that should be a different thread?

Thanks again Laurie!
Bob

 

[peregrina2000]

So, I plan to post to the group looking for suggestions about “calling an audible”. The weather further south looks fine. We’ll finish the San Salvador in Oviedo on Thursday, but may change plans away from the Primitivo. Maybe the Francés from Astorga and then on to Fisterra? (It may be crowded and we’ve done it before). Maybe get to Ponferrada and walk the Invierno/Sanabres? I know nothing about these routes. I’d love your thoughts - though maybe that should be a different thread?

Thanks again Laurie!
Bob

I don’t know anything about weather forecasting, but I heard an interview with a guy from NOAA that it is much less reliable than it used to be because of all the extremes and rapid changes caused by climate change. But hey, it’s always good to have a plan B.

If the weather looks good for Ponferrada and west, I think the Invierno might be a great choice. Here’s the forum group guide. We did it for years, but in 2019 turned it over to Wise Pilgrim, so you can find it on one of the apps. There have been more albergues opened, but the route has remained mostly the same. @Robo is on the Invierno now, I think, as are a few others. And if @El Cascayal gets wind of this possibility, you can be sure she will regale you with superlatives. I’ll wait for the other thread to go on much more, but I would say it is not a mountainous route, which is its big distinction from the Primitivo. Almost all in rural Galicia, beautiful countryside but not spectacular. Elevation gain is not extreme, but not trivial. A few very nice cities, a few very nice albergues, some very good food, and wonderful people. Probably more road walking than the Primitivo, but always very untraveled. There are some very special beautiful places, many of us love it!

Glad you had good weather to Pajares. I am going to go out on a limb and predict that there will be no dog on our way down to San Miguel. Fingers crossed! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[El Cascayal]

Bob I just got a WhatsApp call from Marissa the Hospitalera in Pajares (she remembered that it’s my Mom’s 98th birthday.) When she called we were drinking cidra and we all sang “Asturias patria querida”. I am jet lagged just arrived from Spain 48 h ago. Agree with Laurie’s suggestion of the Invierno. If you have any thoughts/questions we’ll do anything to help! In Oviedo the recent arson fires in & around El Naranco are heartbreaking.

 

[Beth and Rodney]

Keep the info coming!!! Thx for every word!!!

 

[Jan Jones]

I am going to go out on a limb and predict that there will be no dog on our way down to San Miguel. Fingers crossed! Buen camino, Laurie

The dog is there but on the right side of the fence ,which, it seems, has been fixed.

 

[Beth and Rodney]

What's the temperature like?

 

[BobY333]

San Salvador Day 3: Poladura de La Tercia > Pajares

With “only” a 15k day ahead of us, a late start at 9:10am was just fine.

The immediate climb out of Poladura gets the heart pumping. It takes about an hour to make it up to the San Salvador cross - but it flies by given the once-again jaw dropping views. Pictures just can’t capture the colors or the magnificence of this place!

We waited at the cross for the four Brazilians that we’ve become friendly with so that we could all enjoy pictures of our groups together.

On we went along the incredible, and I mean incredible, paths. If you walk this Camino, you really do need to take this all in over two days. In the evening we met three more Brazilians who had walked all the way from Pola de Gordon to Pajares, so they did the two intense climbs in one day. My opinion? That’s a mistake. Take your time and enjoy this - it’s truly beautiful!

After the climb down to the Puerto de Pajares, we were lucky that the Colegiata was open because one the the window restorers was there. That was a treat - and the floors blew me away.

We enjoyed a Kas Limón at the Mirador bar at the Parador at the top (it was open despite looking closed with green construction-like fencing around it).

Down we went on the other side and found our French friends enjoying their lunch and the views. We sat with them and ate as well and were happy to do so since it’s probably the last we’ll see them - such is the Camino!

It was once again a little tricky after we crossed the highway at the bottom of the steep descent. It needs a few more arrows on the hillside and in the woods, but we made it ok. One note - wear pants! There were many, many overgrown, thorny bushes that you can’t help but rub against.

We found our way to Pajares - a really quaint and well-kept village. Did I talk about the views?

We had our own room (2 of us in a room for 7) at the albergue for all of 7 euros. Dinner was at the Bar Mirador (call ahead!) and was a great lentejas (lentil soup) and chicken/fries (not pork?!?).

Once Suzanne narrowly beat me at cribbage, we were off to a good night’s sleep.

Relive 'San Salvador Day 3: Poladura > Pajares (~15k)'

View my hike: San Salvador Day 3: Poladura > Pajares (~15k)

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[BobY333]

San Salvador Day 4: Pajares > Bendueños

Began the day with a nice chat with the guys that came in late yesterday as a surprise. They did ~30k from Pola de Gordon after ~35k the prior day. Then another 38k today. Ooof - no thanks! Language can always be an issue, but with the right people it’s less so. These were the right people! We all agreed that the Camino is about people and talking with people from around the world. Then one of the guys have Suzanne and I beautiful crosses that he made himself!

We waited out the worst of the rain until about 9:30. It was still drizzling when we left, but it turned out to be the right decision. The day was a pretty constant battle between sun and clouds/showers.

My obsession for months has been the viscous dog that came after me just outside Pajares last year. I even had a dream of a dog attack last night. So, you can imagine my relief when the beast didn’t show up when we walked by!!!

Down we went to San Miguel where there was a nice looking place with a Booking.com sticker in the window - an option to consider! Then I’ll through a few villages. It’s a very pretty walk, though completely different than the last two days.

After Llanos we chose to take the “difficult” Munisteriu route to Fresneo. It was great. There was only one “difficult” part - you need to be comfortable climbing steps on a ledge. It’s not long, but it’s definitely a little nervy..,

We had parted ways with the two Brazilian couples earlier in the walk and even saw them in the distance on the road below us. What’s funny is we literally walked into each other in Fresneo. Two different paths, same conclusion.

It seemed to take forever to get to Herias where we’d turn to head up to Bendueños. It’s funny how the mind works. It was a short 17K day, but somehow you get antsy with a few K to go. The same thing happens at ~25k of a 28k day (but not earlier)?

We rested before the final push to Bendueños. Yes, push. It’s a STEEP climb out of Herias. We dealt with it by walking S shaped curves up. We arrived as the next downpour began and made ourselves comfortable in the Bendueños albergue that we had all to ourselves. Sandra is a great hospitalera and everything was ready for us. We had a fun talk with her, then settled in with the stew she made. More cards (it was my night tonight), and now off to bed. This place is worth the effort!

Relive 'San Salvador Day 4: Pajares > Bendueños'

View my hike: San Salvador Day 4: Pajares > Bendueños

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[HoosierOldLady]

I’m looking forward each day now to your updates. I was hoping the infamous dog would not be a problem today because I’m walking by that spot solo in a few weeks and I was bitten by a “good dog” once. I’m so looking forward to staying in Bendueños and hoping it works out. Did you reserve ahead? Seems like a good idea given the steep climb at the end, but I’m not sure if Sandra accepts them.

 

[BobY333]

I’m looking forward each day now to your updates. I was hoping the infamous dog would not be a problem today because I’m walking by that spot solo in a few weeks and I was bitten by a “good dog” once. I’m so looking forward to staying in Bendueños and hoping it works out. Did you reserve ahead? Seems like a good idea given the steep climb at the end, but I’m not sure if Sandra accepts them.

Yes, no dog was a godsend! And yes, Sandra does take reservations - you can reach her on WhatsApp. Buen Camino, it’s great!

 

[BobY333]

San Salvador Day 5: Bendueños > Mieres

Sandra’s place is very comfy, and I’m pretty sure all the mattresses and pillows were new since last year. So, we had a good, if chilly, sleep. Fortunately, she also supplies more than enough big wool blankets!

With two “big” pots of stovetop espresso and yogurt/cereal/banana in our bellies we were set up for a great day.

We used the monster key to let ourselves into the church. It’s really quite something - and seemed more fully decked out this year, including with plenty of flowers. I don’t recall all of the history that she told us last year, but I do recall that it is interesting.

The first part of the day was once again through beautiful countryside. The ups (cuestas) and downs don’t matter when you’re taking in the views.

We visited Santa Cristina de Lena - a must! It’s a beautiful pre-Romanesque church that dates to the 9th Century. Given our timing it was open and the woman there gave us its history (she only speaks Spanish, and to get her started, just ask a question or two!). Another benefit of staying at Bendueños is that you get there when it’s open. If you’re making your way all the way to Pola de Lena, I can imagine being turned off by the climb to the church toward the end of a long day (it’s another ~5k to Pola).

We stopped in Pola for lunch - a bocadillo we put together from ingredients we bought at the market. We ate in the main plaza by the fountain and got to people watch. It seems old men with canes gather in threes here

On we went along pretty meh trail. Lots of walking beside the highway. This is kind of a “get it done” part of the walk. We were staying at the albergue at the university (very nice!) and I knew from last year that the bridge that goes most directly to the university is closed. So, we took the earlier bridge - it was ugly, but saved at least 1-2k, which, you’ll see, was really needed.

Suzanne developed very bad blisters. This is a first. Our Brazilian friends were also staying at the university and were really helpful with blister treatment. (And the “Say Hi” app for spoken translation was a huge help!).

At that point we looked at the very, very ugly weather forecast - rain or a chance of rain for at least a week, including for the walk into Oviedo.

Put those two things together, and we made the call - we’re taking a bus from Mieres south to Ponferrada. It’s disappointing to not end in Oviedo - it’s a really great town and the church and museum are awesome.

And, we’ll miss the (rainy) Primitivo. But, we weren’t going to put Suzanne’s feet through 19k of rainy walking (or walking at all!), and leaving from Mieres gives us an extra day to consider our next steps.

The Camino teaches you to be flexible! And, having walked Caminos in the past, hopping a bus just didn’t feel bad - which it probably would have had this been our first time out here.

We will either take the Camino Frances or the Camino Invierno from Ponferrada. Each has its pros and cons. That’s the next big decision!

Buen Camino!
Bob/Paco

Relive 'San Salvador Day 5: Bendueños > Mieres'

View my hike: San Salvador Day 5: Bendueños > Mieres

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[rojasa]

Bob, I'm sorry I did not see this "Live" thread until today, but am so over the moon to read your chronicles! I'm hoping Suzanne is feeling better by now. I loved reliving this walk through your descriptions -- it truly is an incredible, and challenging, and even more incredible pilgrimage...I'll never forget it. I'm sorry you missed Oviedo - I chose to take a bus from Mieres into Oviedo due to a bone spur making walking virtually impossible that last day. I love Oviedo...But I'm glad you're on the Invierno - and cannot imagine anyone reading this thread NOT making that recommendation (wink wink, Peregrina2000 and El Cascayal)!!! Buen camino!

 

[BobY333]

Bob, I'm sorry I did not see this "Live" thread until today, but am so over the moon to read your chronicles! I'm hoping Suzanne is feeling better by now. I loved reliving this walk through your descriptions -- it truly is an incredible, and challenging, and even more incredible pilgrimage...I'll never forget it. I'm sorry you missed Oviedo - I chose to take a bus from Mieres into Oviedo due to a bone spur making walking virtually impossible that last day. I love Oviedo...But I'm glad you're on the Invierno - and cannot imagine anyone reading this thread NOT making that recommendation (wink wink, Peregrina2000 and El Cascayal)!!! Buen camino!

Hi there! Thank you for your compliment!

As it turns out, we chose to go with the CF. We had done no research into the Invierno and would have been winging it on a path that needs planning. Suzanne’s feet meant that the CF was the better option for us (this time ). It turned out to be a good choice. She going a Camino blister angel and has been all better the last few days! I am passing a Live from the CF too if you’re interested .