Yes, you transfer in Cee, but it´s pretty painless. Bus timetables are likely to change in May so make sure that the info you get is up-to-date. (And of course, if you have the time, do walk. It has been described to me many times as one of the best days on the Camino. It´s 29 klms.)
Rural hotels and a hostal in Lires and if you walk a bit further on Casa de Trillo in Santa Mariña is highly recommended. Jesus and Rosa have long standing connections to the Amigos del Camino in Galicia.
Lires makes a great staging point between Fisterra and Muxia, though we were walking the other way. The Hostal is very pilgrim friendly, as is the bar on the headland above the bay on the "alternative" route.