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LIVE from the Camino C Clearly on the Vasco, October 2019

2020 Camino Guides

C clearly

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2012, 2014, 2015, 2016), VDLP (2017), Mozarabe (2018), Vasco/Bayona (2019)
Here we are, in Beasain already! It seems like ages - it only takes me 48 hours now to become engrossed in the Camino.

My 2 daughters and I met up at Biarritz airport 48 hours ago, one daughter without her backpack that has gone (and remains) astray. We walked only about 8 km of the "first" day to Astigarraga. The highlight was my slipping in the mud - didn't you do that, @VNwalking ?

Then, today we walked 13 km of the distance to Beasain. The commuter train conveniently serves many of these towns at the start. This gave us the chance to do the luggage business, catch up on sleep, get into the mood, and build some flex time into our 12 days. We hope to walk the rest of the way to Burgos.

The weather has been beautiful but tomorrow has rain in the forecast. Fortunately it is only 18 km to Zegama.

More details are in my blog at www.tritetales.com if you are interested.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances(2006) Portugues(2013)
San Salvador (2017) Ingles (2019)
Here we are, in Beasain already! It seems like ages - it only takes me 48 hours now to become engrossed in the Camino.

My 2 daughters and I met up at Biarritz airport 48 hours ago, one daughter without her backpack that has gone (and remains) astray. We walked only about 8 km of the "first" day to Astigarraga. The highlight was my slipping in the mud - didn't you do that, @VNwalking ?

Then, today we walked 13 km of the distance to Beasain. The commuter train conveniently serves many of these towns at the start. This gave us the chance to do the luggage business, catch up on sleep, get into the mood, and build some flex time into our 12 days. We hope to walk the rest of the way to Burgos.

The weather has been beautiful but tomorrow has rain in the forecast. Fortunately it is only 18 km to Zegama.

More details are in my blog at www.tritetales.com if you are interested.
Yes, interested, thanks for the link. Hope the rucksack shows up soon. I look forward to more.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
Here we are, in Beasain already! It seems like ages - it only takes me 48 hours now to become engrossed in the Camino.

My 2 daughters and I met up at Biarritz airport 48 hours ago, one daughter without her backpack that has gone (and remains) astray. We walked only about 8 km of the "first" day to Astigarraga. The highlight was my slipping in the mud - didn't you do that, @VNwalking ?

Then, today we walked 13 km of the distance to Beasain. The commuter train conveniently serves many of these towns at the start. This gave us the chance to do the luggage business, catch up on sleep, get into the mood, and build some flex time into our 12 days. We hope to walk the rest of the way to Burgos.

The weather has been beautiful but tomorrow has rain in the forecast. Fortunately it is only 18 km to Zegama.

More details are in my blog at www.tritetales.com if you are interested.
So if you're going to Burgos that means you're on Via de Bayona and not Vasco del Interior ;)

Anyway watch out for that mud. There can be a lot of it on the way up to San Adrian Tunnel!
 

C clearly

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2012, 2014, 2015, 2016), VDLP (2017), Mozarabe (2018), Vasco/Bayona (2019)
So if you're going to Burgos that means you're on Via de Bayona and not Vasco del Interior ;)
You are correct of course and I was pondering this as I looked at the big map on the wall in the albergue this morning. The way the map is labelled has the Via de Bayona starting far from Bayona. I'm not sure we can fight the influence of that map! Besides, I like to recognize the "Vasco" part.
 

VNwalking

Wandering in big circles
Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
San Olav/CF ('16)
Baztanés/CF ('17)
Ingles ('18)
Vasco/CF/Invierno ('19)
didn't you do that, @VNwalking ?
We wallowed! The mud on that first day was epic, and far more impressive than the small amount on the way up to the tunnel.
Chicken bridge?
It's in the post about Beasain to Zegama (#49?).
One of the most charming things ever - someone really cares about their hens.

Super buen camino to all of you, @C clearly !
May your weather be wonderful for the walk over to Salvatierra!
 
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t2andreo

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
C/F: 2013, 2014
C/M: 2016
C/P: 2015, 2017
C/I: 2018
Voluntario: 2014 - 2019
I HATE MUD! I can handle the cold, wind, rain and snow. I can even adapt to the odd really hot and sunny day. But, I HATE MUD...in any conditions...

I go out of my way to avoid it when I can. Consider walking, carefully, in the adjacent fields. Take care not to trample the farmer's work.
 

C clearly

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2012, 2014, 2015, 2016), VDLP (2017), Mozarabe (2018), Vasco/Bayona (2019)
So far, the mud has not been too bad. Except of course, for that bit that I slipped on, which was epic 😉. (Otherwise I would not have sat in it!)

A nice walk today - a civilized 17 km from Beasain to Zegama. The rain threatened early on, so we put on jackets, etc., but it never materialized. The walk and countryside were very pleasant - the off-highway route, through Olaberria.

Now staying in the pleasant Pension Ostatu Zagama, and just finished a delicious menú del día (the first for my daughters). We are resting up before a night on the town. 🤣

We encountered a Swiss pilgrim en route and saw her in the dining room as well.

We have chorizo, cheese and fruit ready for tomorrow's walk.

Still waiting and hoping the backpack will be delivered tonight. If not, it will get more complicated.
 

VNwalking

Wandering in big circles
Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
San Olav/CF ('16)
Baztanés/CF ('17)
Ingles ('18)
Vasco/CF/Invierno ('19)
I told Antonio in Beasain that I was friends with @VNwalking and @SabineP. He remembered you well and was very happy!
Awwwww.
Nice.

Wishing you fair weather for the morrow - it's a hill to be sure, but a glorious walk. And may that wayward pack arrive!
 

SabineP

Camino = Empathy + Compassion.
Camino(s) past & future
some and then more. see my signature.
BTW. For tomorrow , if you will be staying in the muni albergue in Salvatierra/Agurain : the keys are to be collected at the local sportshall. It is kiosk-like building in glass on the way out of this small town. . You will have to take stairs or lift to the basement where an employee will help you further.

This place serves excellent food! They also rent rooms.
 

Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking..
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
I HATE MUD! I can handle the cold, wind, rain and snow. I can even adapt to the odd really hot and sunny day. But, I HATE MUD...in any conditions...

I go out of my way to avoid it when I can. Consider walking, carefully, in the adjacent fields. Take care not to trample the farmer's work.
Tom, I hate mud, too..but I hate "hot" even more...jus sayin'. Hmm, ...I think I hate it more, anyway!
 
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Camino Chrissy

Take one step forward...then keep on walking..
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015;
Norte/Primitivo 2016;
Frances 2017;
Le Puy 2018;
Portuguese/FishermanTr. 2019
Holy speckled hen! How did I miss that last summer?!
How did I miss it twice!
EDIT- Oops, I've missed it 5 times as I've never been on the Vasco! My mind had defaulted to the Frances!😂
 
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jpflavin1

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF(10,11,17), Vasco(12), Salvador(13), CP(13), CN(14), Madrid (16), Mozarabe (18), VdlP(19)
What happened with this thread?
 

C clearly

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2012, 2014, 2015, 2016), VDLP (2017), Mozarabe (2018), Vasco/Bayona (2019)
Yes, where are you @C clearly
Here I am - alive, well and interested. 😂😁!
I apologize for abandoning the thread. I just lost the urge to blog and post, and gave myself permission to postpone! That was hard, since I think I had blogged every day of my 6 prior caminos.

I just flew out of Spain yesterday but won't be home for a couple of days yet. My daughters and I had a very enjoyable 12 days, with only 1 day of rain - the last day.

I will come back and give a better update when I am at my computer.
 

VNwalking

Wandering in big circles
Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
San Olav/CF ('16)
Baztanés/CF ('17)
Ingles ('18)
Vasco/CF/Invierno ('19)
I apologize for abandoning the thread. I just lost the urge to blog and post, and gave myself permission to postpone!
Beautiful.
No apology necessary. You were there, which is the point. I'm glad all is well, and may you have a safe journey home, @C clearly.
🙏
 

C clearly

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2012, 2014, 2015, 2016), VDLP (2017), Mozarabe (2018), Vasco/Bayona (2019)
I have been thinking for weeks about my commitment to update this thread. But, I've been busy!

In summary, the Vasco del Interior and Bayona from Irun to Burgos (11 days including 1 rest day) was a very nice walk, perfectly suited to the our needs/wants. I wanted my daughters to get a good taste of Camino life, but I also wanted to have a simple visit with them. I certainly hadn't spent 2 weeks with them together since they were teenagers. Now they are into their 30s - I was very pleased with the trip and what good companions they were.

It seems that the walk from Irun to Santo Domingo is called the Vasco del Interior. The Camino Bayona is from Bayonne to Burgos, sharing most of the path with the Vasco, but the Bayona diverges at Estavillo (6 km after La Puebla de Arganzón) to go to Burgos. The Bayona signage after Estavillo makes its name very clear, but the signage earlier is not so clear.

Overall the route from Irun to Burgos had a good variety of terrain and scenery, and a good variety of accommodation from pilgrim albergue to truck-stop hostales to nice hotels. We encountered 2 Spanish cyclists one evening, a Swiss pilgrim on 2 evenings, and then a Dutch couple for a couple of days, but there were no other pilgrim meetings. However, we had great pilgrim treatment with hospitalero Antonio in the Beasain albergue, friendly José (?) who gave us special stamps in Burgueta, as well as other helpful and interested people along the way.

We didn't find as much amazing food as others (e.g. @VNwalking) had raved about, but I am sure it is there. Nevertheless, we survived happily.

Scenery - The day from Zegama to Salvatierra/Aguarin through the Tunel de San Adrian was definitely the highlight. The hill was not as bad as I was led to believe! I am not super fit, but I find that if I walk slowly, most hills are doable without too much suffering. The fact that we had a beautiful day also helped. Another scenic spot was Pancorbo - if I were going again, I would consider the Casa Rural there, instead of the Hostal Pancorbo. The hostal was perfectly fine, but it was a truck stop and it seemed a shame to leave the interesting atmosphere of the village. Do walk up the path and stairs to the lookout point in Pancorbo.

The tour of the cathedral in Vitoria Gasteis was worthwhile.

Weather - we had only one day of rain, it being the last day from the service area at La Brújula to Burgos, when we put our heads down and walked 25 km without sitting down once.

Both daughters enjoyed the walk, and saw the attraction of the Camino. Neither one is likely to walk another in the near future, but I never expected that - they have other priorities at the moment. It was nice to give them a taste of what I am doing every year.
 
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VNwalking

Wandering in big circles
Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
San Olav/CF ('16)
Baztanés/CF ('17)
Ingles ('18)
Vasco/CF/Invierno ('19)
It's great you three had this time together, @C clearly! And your recommendations are spot-on. I'd happily spend two nights in Pancorbo, because there looked to be some amazing hill-walking there.

We didn't find as much amazing food as others (e.g. @VNwalking) had raved about, but I am sure it is there. Nevertheless, we survived happily.
On my own I probably would not have fared so well or so deliciously. But we had a secret resource. Some people are mud magnets, others are rain magnets....and @SabineP is a good food magnet. 🙃 ❤
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
...

It seems that the walk from Irun to Santo Domingo is called the Vasco del Interior. The divergence from Estavillo (6 km after La Puebla de Arganzón) to Burgos is called the Camino Bayona. The Bayona signage makes it very clear.
....
Not entirely true :) Via de Bayona is Camino in its own and not just the divergence from Estavillo because it starts in Bayonne and not in Irun. So I would simply say that Via de Bayona and Camino Vasco del Interior share / overlap a part from Irun to Estavillo ;)

Same as Levante and Sureste on many stretches but are two different Caminos.
 

C clearly

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2012, 2014, 2015, 2016), VDLP (2017), Mozarabe (2018), Vasco/Bayona (2019)
Not entirely true :) Via de Bayona is Camino in its own and not just the divergence from Estavillo because it starts in Bayonne and not in Irun. So I would simply say that Via de Bayona and Camino Vasco del Interior share / overlap a part from Irun to Estavillo ;)

Same as Levante and Sureste on many stretches but are two different Caminos.
True. I also like to get these things right. Now I have edited my post #28 above, accordingly. As I said, someone put up Bayona signs after Estavillo, to make the name of that part very clear.

By the way, in my post, I neglected to mention that the signage was quite good from Irun to Burgos.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
I have a photo of huge stone Via de Bayona (but from Irun :) ) mojon but mostly there are wooden mojones with Done Jakue Bidea/Camino de Santiago written on them. Both in my memory and on my photos ;)

They are quite small so many of them were overgrown. I had to really be careful to spot them.
 
Camino(s) past & future
Francais, Portugish, Norte, Primitivo, Aragonés , Inglés, Via de la Plata, Invierno, Via de Bayona
I have a photo of huge stone Via de Bayona (but from Irun :) ) mojon but mostly there are wooden mojones with Done Jakue Bidea/Camino de Santiago written on them. Both in my memory and on my photos ;)

They are quite small so many of them were overgrown. I had to really be careful to spot them.
3BD577D8-3C79-4A9A-A58C-F6DCBC7A20F7.jpeg
 

C clearly

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2012, 2014, 2015, 2016), VDLP (2017), Mozarabe (2018), Vasco/Bayona (2019)
Yes, those big ones with the map were plentiful after Estavillo, and they convinced me that we were definitely on the Camino de Bayona! Where was the concrete one? We started walking a few km out of Irun, so perhaps missed it.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
Yes, those big ones with the map were plentiful after Estavillo, and they convinced me that we were definitely on the Camino de Bayona! Where was the concrete one? We started walking a few km out of Irun, so perhaps missed it.
It was definitely before Estavillo but I don't remember if it was after La Puebla de Arganzon or even later along the road after Burgueta.
 

Attachments

VNwalking

Wandering in big circles
Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
San Olav/CF ('16)
Baztanés/CF ('17)
Ingles ('18)
Vasco/CF/Invierno ('19)
I don't remember if it was after La Puebla de Arganzon or even later along the road after Burgueta.
It looks like the latter, but I don't remember seeing it. (Which of course doesn't mean it isn't still there.... 🤣:oops:)
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
It's the same one. Check the railings on @Göran Larsson photo and the first one of mine. Same same but different ;)
 
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VNwalking

Wandering in big circles
Camino(s) past & future
Francés ('14/'15)
San Olav/CF ('16)
Baztanés/CF ('17)
Ingles ('18)
Vasco/CF/Invierno ('19)
Besides the huge ones with maps at the beginning of villages, these are the only kind I remember seeing in that 'neck of the woods' (May-June this year), with no indication of what camino was what: IMG_1153 - Copy.JPG
 

C clearly

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances (2012, 2014, 2015, 2016), VDLP (2017), Mozarabe (2018), Vasco/Bayona (2019)
Haha. Who cares where that marker was/is? Not I, really, but it is an excellent excuse to review my photos and the route map, to try to explain why I don't remember it at all! While I am doing this, maybe I should look into getting a more sophisticated route tracking program. Or maybe I should start by organizing the photos of that walk. Or maybe do some unrelated work that is piling up. Or maybe get out the Christmas decorations. No, I will browse my photos some more, looking for that marker!

An hour later....

Yay. I have found that exact marker on Google Earth, about halfway between the N-1 turnoff and the village of Burgueta.

With this excuse, I will post a two photos of my daughters being waylaid by José (can anyone confirm his name?) in Burgueta. His house was just to the left and he took us into his yard to see his Santiago monument and display.

Now back to some other work... ;)
 

Attachments

Camino(s) past & future
Francais, Portugish, Norte, Primitivo, Aragonés , Inglés, Via de la Plata, Invierno, Via de Bayona
S
Ooops, yes, thank you, my bad :) I edited the post.
That's for him to answer. Mine were taken in April 2016.
My photo was taken 2018-07-18 (08:36). It was in Burgueta. I started walking from Biarritz Airport, then Irun, Santo Domingo de la Calzada, Burgos. My plan was to continue walk from Burgos on the ’Camino de San Olav’. but I didn't have time, so I rented a bike and cycled half of San Olav on a day trip.
 

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