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Camí de Sant Jaume de L’Ebre

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Past OR future Camino
2013
Good morning Peregrinos...

I've a flight to Reus on the 6th June and I have until the 19th when I must return to England for obligations from the 20th.

I saw this website...


And got a little excited. I've since spoken to the local Junta who say there is only one Albergue on the route, so now I don't know if it's a good idea or I should trace the way from Tarragona to Lleida, or walk along the coast for a non-Camino walk...


Any one managed the one from the mouth of the Ebro?
 
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DoughnutANZ

I would rather be fishing
Past OR future Camino
2023
Good morning Peregrinos...

I've a flight to Reus on the 6th June and I have until the 19th when I must return to England for obligations from the 20th.

I saw this website...


And got a little excited. I've since spoken to the local Junta who say there is only one Albergue on the route, so now I don't know if it's a good idea or I should trace the way from Tarragona to Lleida, or walk along the coast for a non-Camino walk...


Any one managed the one from the mouth of the Ebro?
Better marked from Barcelona or more interesting from Llançá, Girona, Spain
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Any one managed the one from the mouth of the Ebro?
There are several reports in the Ebro subforum, with good discussion about lodging. I walked it in 2016 though it seems much longer ago than that! We stayed in everal albergues and there are many highlights to this route. The first few stages are flat flat flat with a lot of pavement, as are the days into Zaragoza (though less pavement). But it has a lot of beauty and lots of great stages for contemplation in wide open spaces.
 

lindam

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, VDLP, Invierno, Portuguese, Madrid, Ingles, Fisterra, Muxia, Catalan/Aragones/Loyola Norte
You could contemplate taking the train to a certain point and then walking back following the Ignatian Loyola Camino route. Albergues are found within comfortable walking distance along that route.
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Past OR future Camino
2013
I think I will be heading to Tarragona on Monday evening to stay at the Hostal Noria. I stayed here last time and it's perfectly positioned for the old town... Reus might not be a good option. From Tarragona I might just walk up the coast or down the coast ...
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Past OR future Camino
2013
So I am walking down to this route via the GR92...

From Cambrils.
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Past OR future Camino
2013
It's a bit hot along the coast! And I completely forgot how difficult walking on sand, pebbles or stones can be... But I managed 20 plus kilometres from noon...

First day walking down to the Delta!

Currently I'm in L'Hospitalet de l'Infant
 

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peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
It's a bit hot along the coast! And I completely forgot how difficult walking on sand, pebbles or stones can be... But I managed 20 plus kilometres from noon...

First day walking down to the Delta!

Currently I'm in L'Hospitalet de l'Infant
What an adventure! Are you going to follow the GR92 till Deltebre and then head on the Ruta del Ebro? Or does the GR92 continue along the coast?
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Past OR future Camino
2013
After a few indecisions, revisions and decisions I determined that I have walked enough today. The lunch just didn't inspire me and this town: L'Ametlla de Mar is large enough to shake down. One more day it seems - 'with the scores on the doors' - 35 kilometres to Amposta, where I am not going... It has got an official Alberg.... I am meant to be heading to Deltebre! Tomorrow is another day. Time for an Estrella Damm, olives and to person watch for a little time? The Hotel, where I got a double room, with a bath, for €49.01(Hotel l'Alguer) including breakfast at 7:30am(which is 6:30am UK time)!

Nearly 27 kilometres since 8am until I sought the bath at half past three. Eating that huge hamburger last night really gave me a lot of energy, regardless of the beers and average night's sleep. The sun too... Not the nudists; I was more interested in the nuclear power plant!


Tomorrow is a long way off, but I am so happy to have managed zero public transport today! The Renfe station here suggested its self as I hesitated about going on further, and the Estrella Damm in Cala Cris is fine: it's a million times better than the San Miguel was back at Esmeralda!

This trip is quite random. The planned Camino from Tarragona didn't materialise and I think I like the coastal path - Camí de Ronda - which has plenty of unexpected charms: but not the little gem hastily covered by the Special K box man?!?
 
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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Past OR future Camino
2013
End of day one! But it's only noon. I am in the Alberg de pelegrins d'Amposta because at 11 I thought it's suddenly too hot for a long afternoon towards Tortosa - 20 kilometres done since leaving els Muntells around 6:15am.

The ex-president, wife and current president were very helpful, but the ex-president was giving me a headache: too much information for the future. I don't like to see too far ahead on the Camino. Each day should be as it comes - especially in this heat?

I am here now. The bed is made. There isn't much to the kitchen (it's entire but without condiments, coffee machine, etc - I am never satisfied) but I am only the 7th Peregrino since they opened in October. They are trying to develop the way from here so I wish them success.

There doesn't look like there is too much to concern myself with here in Amposta, but I could walk not further.

The ex-president tried to show me the way tomorrow but he led me into the sun! Minus the floppy hat I couldn't do it and I already have the way ahead...

He was excited, I could see, but he didn't see he was overwhelming me? Hostellers(Catalan) often do that to me and I couldn't be rude to generous hospitality: they charged me nothing... His wife and the current president saw I was drowning in too information and made their way, with the ex-president limping along afterwards.

The central mercat opens at 7 in the morning so I probably can hang about...
 

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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Past OR future Camino
2013
I have just run into two hiccups on this route. Firstly there is the heatwave which is reducing greatly the distance I am willing to cover without tree cover: this morning was totally exposed along the Canal. Secondly the Albergs in the next three locals are either unavailable or ridiculously priced (€70 for instance in Benifallet). The one in Xerta seems to be only for groups now...

Most Caminos are physically testing, but this one is actually making me lose concentration when I need it most.


However there is a train out of Tortosa on Sunday morning so I could head back to the GR92 and head north from Tarragona and try to keep away from the afternoon heat by going into the sea?
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Past OR future Camino
2013
Walking across town from the Hostal Virginia (€30), where I had shower and relaxed an hour under the welcome Aircon and it's all about different pharmacy led displays suggesting the temperature is climbing steadily towards the mid thirties.
Imagine walking in the afternoon without any shade along the side of that canal - It'd kill me for sure.

Is there somewhere in Spain where the thermometer is not gradually increasing so I can hide away? Staring at four walls isn't ideal, although there is some physical relief, but bordem levels increases and I get a little neurotic about tomorrow. Now I am lacking motivation to carry on on the Camino del Ebro. It's too hot to do much, but I can't control it. Imagine working in it?

Perhaps I stop the Camino... There will be other times. Perhaps I head back to the coast and stay near the sea? I know there is a sea breeze and the sea to take the edge off.

Tomorrow the suggestion is to walk as far as Benifallet and make a decision about which direction to follow: the GR99 follows the river, where the Camino del Ebro goes up to the mountains: where I will find no respite from the scorching hot sun.

Tortosa is the end of the train line which heads all the way to Barcelona. Perhaps I chuck it and head there? It's been years since I stayed anywhere close to it...

This is fizzling out.

***

And that's all folks!

Bed bugs crawling all over my body! It was just gone midnight when I felt irresistibly itchy. It's the third time I've been in a similar situation, but the first where, as I was about to go to find the hostalleros, I locked myself out of the room! Luckily I was dressed, at least from the waist down!

In the lobby I called the hostess and she understood no English and I no Catalan. I had to knock on the nextdoor neighbours door and then the hostess and husband came and I could show them the whopper of a biter I'd discovered... I'd killed a few who where clearly full of my blood leaving the squashed bodes on the white sheets.

The room, although small and without a view of any kind from the window, was clean and functional so bed bugs were truly unexpected!

So I got moved to another room and slept well and now I am heading back towards the Delta rather than put myself in harm's way with nowhere to stay. I stop walking after I've returned along the GR99.
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Past OR future Camino
2013
Yesterday I had a full day off any long distance walking. This morning I am covering the distance between Deltebre, the start of the Camino del Ebro and the GR99 from Ruimar as the weather this morning, although muggy, isn't so warm as it is without cloud cover.

The end of the Ebro and the start of the Mediterranean.


Now, as I come back towards the apartment I've had for the passed two nights, I feel inclined to walk tomorrow Ithe suggested premer etapa to La Rapita and then join back onto the GR92 to the border between Catalonia and Valencia... But the sun is absolutely draining!

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futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Past OR future Camino
2013
I didn't. The weather. Nothing is connecting in a positive: Camino way. For all it's difficulties the Chemin from Paris, through snow, gale and driving rain, had more reality to the experience. My French is awful, but people were genuinely interested in my walking towards Tours. Here in Catalonia it's too touristic for its own good(and exhaustingly hot). I hitched to the train station, caught the train to Cambrils. Tomorrow I am back around Tarragona prior to my flight back to the UK...
 

lindam

Active Member
Past OR future Camino
Frances, VDLP, Invierno, Portuguese, Madrid, Ingles, Fisterra, Muxia, Catalan/Aragones/Loyola Norte
I didn't. The weather. Nothing is connecting in a positive: Camino way. For all it's difficulties the Chemin from Paris, through snow, gale and driving rain, had more reality to the experience. My French is awful, but people were genuinely interested in my walking towards Tours. Here in Catalonia it's too touristic for its own good(and exhaustingly hot). I hitched to the train station, caught the train to Cambrils. Tomorrow I am back around Tarragona prior to my flight back to the UK...
Hope you will be taking some happy memories back home with you. Certainly, walking in this heat would not be for me. Thanks for sharing your journey.
 

futurefjp

Camino enthusiast.
Past OR future Camino
2013
Went to the promenade and I am left wondering how many ice cream, souvenir, discount shoe and restaurants (where someone stands forcing you in) there ever needs to be? Hundreds. In a universe as amazing and as complicated as this humanity really is so simple: give him a lolly and he'll be so so happy.

Truthfully, I found myself walking at that promenading speed and shouted at myself. Leaving the pointlessness I crossed over the Ramblas and park which separates Cambrils from L'Horta de Santa Maria.
Much like a warning of Dragons: there be Germans beyond the dross of commerciality. So I sat down for a beer - pitiful Estrella Damm (it's Alsatian you know) - and touched base with Nuremberger, Hamburger, and his hund(Nina), then working my way back towards this Fonda I crossed back into Nanaland, but where the locals hung out: Passeig de Francesc Marciá and ate a €5 artisanal pizza(minus the cheese) and a final beer.

It's another day. I've located a café next to where I climbed off the bus last Tuesday. It's been a thoroughly intense 10 days... INXS comes on the radio as I umm and ahh about walking back to Tarragona...it's already getting to me - the heat! Slept very well however... But now I am utterly bored of Catalonia ... If I ever returned it's back to the north around Girona to go on the official Camí Catalan. But never again in the summer months!!! PXL_20220616_060744298.jpg
 

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