Caminho Interior 2015, from Vila Real, by bike

[edumad]

Here is a sort of trip report ...

This was a last minute thing. A friend, with whom I had already done my first camino, was unhappy with the weather for beach holidays, so wanted to go to Santiago instead. Between the coastal and the interior routes I opted immediately for the latter. The plan was to leave from Régua and to do it in 4 days. Far too ambitious, as soon I'd realize.
The idea was to leave Porto by train, but the Douro train lines do not take assembled bikes (in addition to the Minho). So the bus was the option to take. We also decided to start further north in Vila Real. Thus saving several kms of uphill, and unfortunately missing the Douro valley scenery altogether.

I have visited the region between Regua and Pinhão when I did a bike race there (at a leisurely pace). It is very beautiful, and if you like wine take the time or some wine experiences and tastings.

We left Vila Real rather late in the morning. The bus station isn't far from the São Domingos Church, we took a selfie, but forgot to get a stamp. The waymarking is done by little plaques, they appear sparingly but are sufficient. A good description for the majority of the route.
SDC17602 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

It takes a while to leave the tarmac as you exit Vila Real. Eventually you get into farm tracks that take you along field forests and small villages.
SDC17601 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

The many stones we would see along the way appear early. Old medieval and Roman paths which while basically unridable, are interesting all the same.
SDC17599 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
The landscape becomes beautiful after Vilarinho of Samardã when going along the ecotrail. This takes you up to Vila Pouca de Aguiar. We had lunch in Samardã, a typical road side restaurant with trucks at the door, this usually good sign turn out to be correct. Tasty food, plentiful portions and cheap. It was also here that we lost one of our companions. All the enthusiasm couldn't hide the total lack of preparation. Despite the food and wine, our continuous pleas to share the load on his backpack, the decision was final to drop out.
After a steep descent and ascent, the now two of us, were on the ecotrail, a disused train line that is delight to ride on bike. On foot, however, it'll be long between villages, so prepare accordingly.
SDC17619 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
Until Vila Pouca de Aguiar it only deviates from this trail to go into villages and between nice fields.
After Vila Pouca, the camino takes us along fields, on tracks which show the lack of foot fall in many areas.
SDC17651 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
In Pedras Salgadas we visited the park, worth the visit. This twon and Vidago are well known for the water, but none was for show in the streams. What are they selling?
SDC17637 by eduardodourado, on FlickrAfter a bit on the N2 where the arrows disappear, they finally send us out and down to Vidago. Single tracks and paths with overgrown vegetation, but good adrenaline and the last part nearing Vidago was pretty nice.
SDC17652 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
We stayed in the firedepartment in Vidago, excellent conditions and very friendly people, great tip for dinner. Dormitory was super nice with great conditions. Also, all to ourselves. Pilgrims seen on the first day: zero.

To be continued...

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Hi Eduardo - great to see your potos. Thanks for putting this together. It seems as though the CPI way marking from Vila Real are sufficient.
So no walking pilgrims?? Maybe Michael and I will be the only ones in October hehehe. Not long until my flight. Looking forward to your next instalment please. . .
Cheers, Grace

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Eduardo, many thanks for this, and like Grace, I look forward to hearing more about your journey. What is that last picture?

Is Pedras Salgadas where the fizzy water with the same name comes from?

 

[Kanga]

Lovely photos. Thank you. Ah, so many places to see, so many walks to do....

 

[edumad]

Hi, Eduardo, many thanks for this, and like Grace, I look forward to hearing more about your journey. What is that last picture?

Is Pedras Salgadas where the fizzy water with the same name comes from?

The last picture is the Vidago Palace Hotel, its right on the camino, the door guy let us go into the grounds and take pictures. Btw, the new section of the fire department was fitted with reclaimed material from the renovation of this hotel.

It is common for people in Portugal to ask for "água das pedras" when asking for fizzy water. Pedras, Vidago Chaves and Ourense are part of network of thermal water centers.

 

[edumad]

Day 2
SDC17667 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
Leaving Vidago it is more or less constant uphill until Redial. This is done always on tarmac, the roads are quiet, but many times there is no shoulder. Near the top of the hill we see an arrow taking us out of the road and down through the woods. Great bit of fun for a while, but there are no new arrows in sight. We search around and nothing a look at the map makes it look doubtful that this would be the correct direction. We got back to the road (much less fun now) and checked our surroundings. There was the arrow, but a several meters along the was one of the plaques telling us to keep on the road.
We covered up the arrow the best we could and left a sign to keep to the road.
I had the track on my mobile overlayed on a topo map. I would say it isn't necessary, but it does bring a lot of peace of mind. It would prove useful several times again, although we constantly ignored it and follow the arrows.
SDC17670 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
After the highest point of the day, we entered rolling paths between fields and forest. Between Vidago and Chaves we stopped many times to eat grapes and other fruits like figs and peaches. Delicious and distinctly better than store bought.

On the descent into Chaves, it is a mix of tarmac and pavé on the outskirts. We reached the bridge into the city center after a long straight which reminded me of the entrance into Porrino after the industrial area. Chaves is a nice town, we didn't look into many of the shigts but took our time to relax near the river and the castle.
SDC17676 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
After the bridge, we lost the arrows completely, just wandered around and followed the tourist directions. We were soon near the Santa Maria Maior Church, right by the Castle.
SDC17686 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
SDC17696 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
We spotted a bakery "Maria" near the Castle, advertising Chaves pastry. This is a savory snack of ground meat in a crispy puff pastry casing. You'll find in most places in Portugal. This was a tiny place which clearly serves both public and other businesses. The pastry is fresh and delicious. Easily the best I have eaten, of course it was very freshly baked, but I get the distinct impression the amount of fat or butter is making a big different. My taste buds are loving it and my rational brain is saying I'll burn it off, so no worries. When I ask for our forth one and a stamp on the credential, the owner gave one for free. We put it down on the good karma for clearing up the faulty arrow.

Suitably rested and fed, we left towards Verín. The aren't any hard climbs in this raia region, but the heat was oppressive. Fortunately water taps are common. They have been since the start and I'd say even more so than in the central route. The route passes through a large industrial area, a few soul crushing kms, with the only virtue of having better landscape than Porrino.
After this there was a large burnt area, the anual portuguese catastrophe...
SDC17706 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
The entrance into Spain was anticlimactic with a plaque indicating Galicia. Nearly always on road, we deviate from the track in Rabal, never seeing conflicting arrows, only sparcely placed arrows. We had to make a forced stop in Cabreiroá on the outskirts of Verín, the heat was too much. There was a tap on hand, I could have made tea with the first liters of water that came out.
SDC17715 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
Entering Verín we again loose the arrows, it is clear that we won't be going further today, so we spend some time on the cafés with a cold beer.
The albergue is over the bridge, as you leave town. It has a large crest in front, as it is the former house of a knight of the order of Santiago , so we are told. Really nice condition inside, large common area, great bathroom. Again we were alone, but there was rooms for many many more (not so nice).

My friend's advice to anyone walking from Chave to Verin: get a taxi. It was definitely the least enjoyable part of our camino, but it was not only the kms of tarmac, the weather didn't help.

 

[PEI_Heather]

Ooooh! These are beautiful photos! Now more than ever, I want to go back to Portugal! (And if you asked my friends and family, they'd tell you that I constantly tell them that I am 'going' to win the lottery and move to Portugal!)
This may be an idea for my next Camino walk, in 2016!
Thanks for the introduction to the Portuguese Interior, edumad (and thanks for the heads up to take a look, Laurie/peregrina2000)!

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Eduardo, your photos are wonderful. I want to send you a little kiss for ‘fixing’ the erroneous arrow out of Vidago.
I will be cautious in this area now.
When I pass the little church (your photo 17667), do I stay on the ‘road’ for a long time? Can you remember . . .Is the first correct arrow after this church an ‘official’ camino one or a painted yellow arrow? Many thanks, Grace

 

[edumad]

Ooooh! These are beautiful photos! Now more than ever, I want to go back to Portugal! (And if you asked my friends and family, they'd tell you that I constantly tell them that I am 'going' to win the lottery and move to Portugal!)
This may be an idea for my next Camino walk, in 2016!
Thanks for the introduction to the Portuguese Interior, edumad (and thanks for the heads up to take a look, Laurie/peregrina2000)!

I'm glad you enjoy the photos and are enticed to do this route. I have to thank amsimoes for his role in getting me interested in this camino. Check his posts for more info on it.

Eduardo, your photos are wonderful. I want to send you a little kiss for ‘fixing’ the erroneous arrow out of Vidago.
I will be cautious in this area now.
When I pass the little church (your photo 17667), do I stay on the ‘road’ for a long time? Can you remember . . .Is the first correct arrow after this church an ‘official’ camino one or a painted yellow arrow? Many thanks, Grace

To be precise, the erroneous arrow is after Vidago, and after this chapel. In Vidago we had no issues, there were well placed plaques to guide us. The small chapel is in Valverde, I remember right after it there is a plaque. These will be on the camino, which is on road until Redial 4km away.
The erroneous arrows comes up about half-way between Valverde and the next village.

 

[edumad]

Day 3

Despite knowing fully well we had the hardest climb of the camino on this day, we couldn't pass visiting the castle. After breakfast over the bridge in Verín (I do enjoy the huge croissants they make in Spain), we went back and left the bikes near the albergue. This is at the foot of the hill, so we are immediately on a steep climb towards the castle.
SDC17720 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
We joke the path is perfect for protection, just release a big boulder and let it take care of the invading forces - Raiders of the Lost Ark style.
As the climb ends, we are relieved... It was indeed worth the walk.

SDC17739 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
There is no one around and it is bitterly cold, but the first rays of the morning were coming through the clouds, making things more beautiful. Definitely worth the visit.
SDC17745 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
SDC17749 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
SDC17757 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

Getting back on the bikes, we literally throw a coin and head south for the variant Xinzo de Limia
and Allariz instead of Laza.
First kilometers are easy and uninteresting road, some traffic, but broad shoulder. After this the arrows deviate from the GPS track and lead us down paths between fields and more delicious fruit.
SDC17758 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
As I expected, we delayed the uphill section but it eventually comes and very steep. A short while on tarmac, but for the most part on macadam roads. It is steep, but probably more interesting than the alternative on road.
SDC17763 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
Altough the views are good, the climb wears us down. We finally cross the main road and there seems to be a respite from the climb. We lose the arrows completely, but thanks to the gps quickly get back on track. My guess is we missed an arrow due to the overgrown vegetation. The respite is short lived and we are again climbing, it's now hotter and so its quite demanding.
SDC17769 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
Rest comes as we get close to Penaverde and from here to Villaderey it's all downhill, a lot of it on singletrack. Very enjoyable, although with to much overgrowth, especially nearer to Villaderey.
We get to Trasmiras by the national road and decide to look for some food. A recommendation brings us to a road-side restaurant, when we see the trucks at the door we known its going to be good.
Having eaten far to much to do any physical exercise, we still find space for some sweet sloes (plum like fruit) found on the road side. Fortunately its straight and level for several kms.
SDC17772 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
Pretty easy on a bike, but I figure it would get dull quite quickly and perhaps hard to do in very hot weather.
SDC17777 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
Xinzo is a large town, so we stopped for supplies at a supermarket. While eating ice-creams (yes it's a plural) at the door, I see a milestone that says 149 km to Santiago, the cycling computer marks the same.

SDC17786 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
After plenty of road, we stop for a rest and some photos in Sandías. This woman was sitting near the church and gave a tour around it as the church itself was locked. Until recently, they buried people on the church grounds, we realize, as the lady points to hers fathers grave.
SDC17788 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

We continue on, still on tarmac, until we reach Allariz municipality, then it is a mixture of roads, farm tracks, excellent single tracks and paths that remind me of the Roman roads in Terras de Bouro (PT). Allariz was a pleasant surprise.
SDC17798 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

Very beautiful small town and very well preserved. I had seen on the net there were no albergues in town, so we just wandered around looking for some options. We went to the tourist information desk where they informed us that we were wrong. There was an albergue "and should not be full".
SDC17826 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

We exchanged views on the beauty of the north of Portugal and Galicia. They informed us of the large cultural offering in Allariz (they seem to have a festival every week), we shared our restaurant recommendations for Esposende.
SDC17805 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

The albergue is set in a former convent, it was indeed empty. It sleeps only 8 or 10, but could feed an army, the kitchen is so well furnished. We were given the keys and left to our own devices, "just leave the key and donation on the letter box next door in the morning".

 

[gracethepilgrim]

I’d definitely love to stay here. I’m really looking forward to Allariz. Perhaps a ‘rest’ day to enjoy the town? Cheers and thanks Eduardo for the clarification on Vidago to Redial

 

[peregrina2000]

Beautiful! I am so tempted to put this on top of my Camino 2016 list. I have wanted to visit Allariz for a long time, and in fact the last time I walked the Sanabrés I inquired about doing the La Guidiña to Verín alternative just for that purpose. But I was talked out of it, can't even remember why!

I once stayed in the parador of Verín, when traveling through Galicia in a car, and our room had a lovely view of that castle that your pictures capture so well, edumad. Thanks so very much for posting these pictures. Bom caminho, Laurie

 

[edumad]

Day 4
SDC17832 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
We were delighted to find a nice pastry shop by the river which was open early. We found a Portuguese waitress over the counter. It was store from a company from Vila Real coincidentally. The early start went out the window, traded for good conversation and delicious cakes.
In Allariz, like most towns/cities we loose sight of the arrows. But exiting the town was easy, up and over the roman bridge.
SDC17836 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
From here to Pereiras, where the southern and northern variants of the VdLP meet, we once again roll along paths and single-tracks. Without a doubt this section in the Allariz area
was our favorite to ride.
SDC17839 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
As we reach the industrial area outside Ourense we saw the first pilgrims. We again loose the arrows and decide to look into the city center.
SDC17862 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

With the cathedral closed (as far as we could see) we visited the cloisters.
SDC17874 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
SDC17875 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
These are uphill, next to the albergue. A short but nice visit. Back down in the center we had some delicious tapas and obligatory Estrellas.
After the bridge out of Ourense city center we saw arrows that led us well away from the GPS track, we follow them up through busy roads for a few kms. Leaving the outskirts of town and into the hills, we climbed for almost 2 km at 21% average, the slope was not as uncomfortable as the flies.
Little black devils black that hung in front of the eyes like corks in an Australian hat. Somewhat ironic comparison I understand.
SDC17908 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
SDC17909 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
After this rise we abandon the road and the camino follows in wide macadam paths between
forest.
SDC17914 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
We passed Casa César where we were beckoned in. Distrustful of such camino-side establishments, we nevertheless stoped and were greeted by a genuinely joyful man. Eager to share his stories and memorabilia left by other pilgrims, including postcards and letters. I encourage you to stop and have a rest.
SDC17921 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

We arrived at Cea after a good mix of trails and road. Here I started noticing more awareness of pilgrims and the camino, but also more commercial pressure (flyers and the like). The albergue was an old stone house from the old local tax collector. Picturesque place with an "espigueiro" (maise storage) in front. We finally shared the albergue with other pilgrims. About half a dozen, including two bicigrinos which arrived right after us and had come from Verín.
The dinner recommendation was a disappointment. The steak and fries reminded me of what I would cook during my early college years.
SDC17923 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

 

[peregrina2000]

A bad dinner in Cea? Did no one send you to the excellent pulpería? Great pictures, edumad, thanks much. Laurie

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Eduardo, thanks for the detail. Pity about your meal. I remember an awesome meal in Cea but it was definitely not what you had. It was the typical ‘big’ plate with cabbage/beans/sausage and thick slices of slow-cooked pork. Delicious. The restaurant looked like a deli (selling delicious cheese, wine and meats) and was on the ‘main’ rd not too far from cafe ‘sol y luna’ (good for brekky). For future reference, C/ Calvo Sotelo

 

[edumad]

I believe someone said it was the pulperia. It was on a street that leads into the square in the picture.
We actually thought we had ordered the pulpo (octopuss) but we received meat. I made no fuss as I reckoned we had made some mistake.

 

[edumad]

Day 5

We left Cea and right away we had to choose: go to Oseira or through Piñor. No coin needed here, despite knowing the terrain would be hard and the route adds 5 km to our day, we chose Oseira.
SDC17925 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
We started out through forest roads followed by very rocky terrain. We arrived at Oseira after a few kms on tarmac. The monastery is certainly impressive by the size, it is also interesting because it is hidden in one of the many small valleys.

SDC17932 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

SDC17939 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
We did a guided tour and the monk explained to us the history of the building and cistercian connection with Alcobaça in Portugal. Definitely worth the visit.
SDC17951 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

SDC17944 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
As the camino leaves Oseira it imediately climbs to reveal a beautiful view of the convent.
SDC17962 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
After this we are quickly climbing what look like dryed up streams. Stone and more stone, rising and rising. As we would say in Portugal: "it puts the Labruja climb in the pocket", which means to say it completely surpasses it. There is not only toughness though, the pastoral landscape is beautiful.
SDC17968 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

Eventually we start going downhill, passing a one point through very thick bush. I forgot to bring my machete, but still managed to pull through... After this, going down another rocky path I hesitated and got my wheel stuck, flying over the bars. Bumped my knee and gave my arms a thorough scraping. Nothing serious, but nonetheless we stopped at a café in Gouxa to put some ice on my knee. Here the locals still get served wine on a bowl and buy a bottle to take home. A custom that we used to have here in Portugal.

SDC17981 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

The camino continues to be a good mix of roads and trails. The climb out of Oseira took its toll, and the heat is starting to do the same. We decided to stop for lunch in Santo Domingo. The only place available was a road-side restaurant. We were happy to see the trucks at the door, but as we look at our wallets we have a grand total of € 9.68. Tarjeta? No, and nearest cash-point is in Lalin 10km away. What can we eat? Maybe a soup and a bocadillo? Sure.
As we wait, I go out to try and fix a broken spoke on my bike. A Colombian bicigrino arrives and tries to help. I manage to botch a fix and go in for lunch. Waiting is a very large bowl of soup, a jar a wine, loads of bread, salad and a tortilla. Do they know we only have €10? I say to my friend.
We stuff ourselves with food and barely able to move we manage to get back on our bikes, philosophizing on the freedom of an empty wallet.
We stayed in Silleda after a good mix of trail and road. Something that has happened since Allariz and would continue until Santiago. In Silleda the public albergue was closed, and we stayed in a private one. Regular beds, kitchen, living room, wifi and no limit for 8 €. A good find.

SDC18010 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

Sorry for being so slow in posting these, I promise the 6th and final day will come soon.

 

[edumad]

Day 6

We left Silleda with the first sun rays. It was cold, the coldest in our trip. However, the miles are easy so we push on to arrive in Santiago early in the day.
SDC18021 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

The easy kms into Ponte Ulla end with a steep descent. With a bit of sand on the road, there were some nerve wrecking sharp turns. We were over the bridge and straight into the café next to it.
SDC18028 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
We asked for a café con leche to warm up and, as we drank it, the Colombian cyclist walks in with the same intentions.
He started in Zamora and has been cycling for longer than we have. With 15 kilos (!) on the panniers the climbs aren't easy, but he seems to cope better than us.
We know there is a tough climb out of Ponte Ulla and decided to get going expecting our colombian friend to soon pass us.
We immediately miss the arrows, but the only slight slope is an indicator that we are on the wrong path.
Back on the steep stuff, we climb for a few kms keeping the blood sugar up thanks to the grapes on the road side vineyards.
SDC18024 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
As the kms pass and we get nearer Santiago, the pilgrims appear more frequently.
When we get to the outskirts of the city, with the city of science and the cathedral visible we catch up wit our bicigrino friend and ride in together into Santiago.
SDC18038 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
We make our way into the city center proper, via a very steep street which feels very cruel.
A few streets away from the cathedral there is people everywhere and it feels weird.
We reach the Praza do Obradoiro and like the many pilgrims around us, give cheers, shake hands and take pictures.
SDC18040 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
SDC18044 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
We took six days, more than expected, and without false modesty, more than my preparation required. We could do it faster... but it was wouldn't be the same.
SDC18042 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

Some considerations:

I used a bag on the seat post and a backpack. The lightweight backpack meant that it was never a nuisance. Without all the weight on my bike it also meant it wasn't as hard to maneuver it up and down the rocky sections. For cyclists, I think there are more sections of unridable terrain than in the central route. I got the sense that road alternatives were always available.

While in the central route there are more arrows reassuring you that you are on the camino, here they appear more sparingly. In many parts they show up only in junctions or crossroads. We deviated from the GPS track many times, always following arrows and never conflicting indications. Outside towns, only near Cabreiroá did we had the sense we were out of the camino completely, not seeing arrows for quite a while. I would recommend taking a map or track on your mobile to be on the safe side.

I think we saw fewer fountains than in the central route and many streams and rivers had low water levels, but both in Portugal and Spain there were frequently water taps in the small villages.
September was a great time of year to make this camino, as there was some much ripe fruit available. I don't want to encourage people, but I confess I don't feel guilty. Stealing to eat isn't a crime as we say here and besides, if it falls onto the road its fair game.

This way versus the central (from Porto)... Harder, more rock, more climbs, long climbs, longer sections of road. More beautiful, more water taps, more interesting trails, more peaceful, more small villages.
Maybe some day I'll do the section from Viseu to Vila Real and see how the camino traverses the Douro region. It should be beautiful.

On the Portuguese side and in Spain (perhaps up to Ourense) the camino is quiet and there seems to be little awareness of it by the locals. I enjoyed it and if you want some peace and quiet this seems like a great option.

 

[amsimoes]

Day 3

Despite knowing fully well we had the hardest climb of the camino on this day, we couldn't pass visiting the castle. After breakfast over the bridge in Verín (I do enjoy the huge croissants they make in Spain), we went back and left the bikes near the albergue. This is at the foot of the hill, so we are immediately on a steep climb towards the castle.
SDC17720 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
We joke the path is perfect for protection, just release a big boulder and let it take care of the invading forces - Raiders of the Lost Ark style.
As the climb ends, we are relieved... It was indeed worth the walk.

SDC17739 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
There is no one around and it is bitterly cold, but the first rays of the morning were coming through the clouds, making things more beautiful. Definitely worth the visit.
SDC17745 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
SDC17749 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
SDC17757 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

Getting back on the bikes, we literally throw a coin and head south for the variant Xinzo de Limia
and Allariz instead of Laza.
First kilometers are easy and uninteresting road, some traffic, but broad shoulder. After this the arrows deviate from the GPS track and lead us down paths between fields and more delicious fruit.
SDC17758 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
As I expected, we delayed the uphill section but it eventually comes and very steep. A short while on tarmac, but for the most part on macadam roads. It is steep, but probably more interesting than the alternative on road.
SDC17763 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
Altough the views are good, the climb wears us down. We finally cross the main road and there seems to be a respite from the climb. We lose the arrows completely, but thanks to the gps quickly get back on track. My guess is we missed an arrow due to the overgrown vegetation. The respite is short lived and we are again climbing, it's now hotter and so its quite demanding.
SDC17769 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
Rest comes as we get close to Penaverde and from here to Villaderey it's all downhill, a lot of it on singletrack. Very enjoyable, although with to much overgrowth, especially nearer to Villaderey.
We get to Trasmiras by the national road and decide to look for some food. A recommendation brings us to a road-side restaurant, when we see the trucks at the door we known its going to be good.
Having eaten far to much to do any physical exercise, we still find space for some sweet sloes (plum like fruit) found on the road side. Fortunately its straight and level for several kms.
SDC17772 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
Pretty easy on a bike, but I figure it would get dull quite quickly and perhaps hard to do in very hot weather.
SDC17777 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
Xinzo is a large town, so we stopped for supplies at a supermarket. While eating ice-creams (yes it's a plural) at the door, I see a milestone that says 149 km to Santiago, the cycling computer marks the same.

SDC17786 by eduardodourado, on Flickr
After plenty of road, we stop for a rest and some photos in Sandías. This woman was sitting near the church and gave a tour around it as the church itself was locked. Until recently, they buried people on the church grounds, we realize, as the lady points to hers fathers grave.
SDC17788 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

We continue on, still on tarmac, until we reach Allariz municipality, then it is a mixture of roads, farm tracks, excellent single tracks and paths that remind me of the Roman roads in Terras de Bouro (PT). Allariz was a pleasant surprise.
SDC17798 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

Very beautiful small town and very well preserved. I had seen on the net there were no albergues in town, so we just wandered around looking for some options. We went to the tourist information desk where they informed us that we were wrong. There was an albergue "and should not be full".
SDC17826 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

We exchanged views on the beauty of the north of Portugal and Galicia. They informed us of the large cultural offering in Allariz (they seem to have a festival every week), we shared our restaurant recommendations for Esposende.
SDC17805 by eduardodourado, on Flickr

The albergue is set in a former convent, it was indeed empty. It sleeps only 8 or 10, but could feed an army, the kitchen is so well furnished. We were given the keys and left to our own devices, "just leave the key and donation on the letter box next door in the morning".

Allariz albergue is a "hotel". The best.

 

[amsimoes]

I’d definitely love to stay here. I’m really looking forward to Allariz. Perhaps a ‘rest’ day to enjoy the town? Cheers and thanks Eduardo for the clarification on Vidago to Redial

Allariz is a small town that is easy to visit in the afternoon. The stage is small, beautiful and easy.
It is the Galician city with more coats of arms on the facades of houses. It was a city where many Jews lived, see the monument to religious intolerance.