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Camino de Madrid in September

2020 Camino Guides

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
We are 2 pilgrims (Canadian and an Aussie) starting out from Madrid the morning of Sept 07. Plan on doing the Madrid/Frances/Invierno combination. Anyone else?
Yes. 5 years ago ;)

Beautiful combo. Wish you Buen Camino!
 

Kiwi-family

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Past: (2012, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2018)-Frances, Baztan, San Salvador, Primitivo, Fisterra,VdlP, Madrid
I did Madrid, Salvador, Primitivo at the same time last year. The first two weeks the temperatures regularly hit the mid thirties which was a shock coming from a Kiwi winter that seemed set to last forever!
Enjoy!
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
HI Terry, I’ll be starting the same day! (hopefully) Flying in 6th Sept on Qatar.
Staying at The Hat. PM me if you like. I’ll be using Whatsapp.
Nice to see you'll be on the road again ;)
 

lindam

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, Via de La Plata, Portuguese, Camino Ingles, Fisterra, Muxia, Catalan and Aragones, Norte
We'll be following in your footsteps later in September: Madrid Camino, Invierno and the Ingles (two Canadians living in Spain). Enjoy your travels!
 

terryvinet

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances/Finest September 2013
VDLP September 2016
Salamanca to Santiago/Finesterra/Muxia 2017
HI Terry, I’ll be starting the same day! (hopefully) Flying in 6th Sept on Qatar.
Staying at The Hat. PM me if you like. I’ll be using Whatsapp.
We must meet up then! I am arriving on the 4th and will message you.
 

TAG2305

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
( August/September 2019)
Hello, I flew into Madrid yesterday, and had forgotten how much I love Spain. The plan was !, Madrid get to Pamplona and on to SJPDP, BUT, now I think fly to Bilbao, have a look, and either start walking there or get to Pamplona and start there. Is there any reason to go to SJPDP? I haven’t booked any accomodation yet, and I have a small wheelie bag I wanted to send on. I want to see everything, Zaragoza , Pamplona, Bilbao and do the walk..........
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
Hello, I flew into Madrid yesterday, and had forgotten how much I love Spain. The plan was !, Madrid get to Pamplona and on to SJPDP, BUT, now I think fly to Bilbao, have a look, and either start walking there or get to Pamplona and start there. Is there any reason to go to SJPDP? I haven’t booked any accomodation yet, and I have a small wheelie bag I wanted to send on. I want to see everything, Zaragoza , Pamplona, Bilbao and do the walk..........
If you fly to Bilbao you can just start walking either Norte or Olvidado (to Villafranca del Bierzo).

You may go a bit east to Irun and start Vasco del Interior.

Or to the west of Bilbao to Santander and walk Ruta del Besaya.

So many possibilities not to mention those south of Camino Frances:

Buen Camino!
 
Camino(s) past & future
'03CF, '08VdlP, '12Porto, '14VdlP via Port '15CPI ‘17Levante to Toledo
Well I promised to write about my camino Madrid. As I’ve been dogged with a pesky foot issue I’ve held off posting in case I have to abandon ship.
Bloomin heck, what next!
Suffice to say I’m doing ok and staying in touch with Terry and Paul. We’re a day apart.
Im now in the cute Albergue in Villeguillo on my own. Bliss :)
Unfortunately there is a bubble of 7 now so I zoomed ahead for a quiet night.
From tomorrow we’ll all catch up again.
Im loving this camino. The countryside changes every couple of days.
Fuenfria was a challenge and I nearly froze my tips (fingers) off ! Is this September?
So I’ll maybe do a summary post when I finish.
All I can say is - love love love it (oh,and give yourself a few extra days in Segovia - preciosa
Cheers grace
 
Camino(s) past & future
Frances x5, Portuguese VdlP12, Sanabres, Aragones, Norte,Salvador,Primitivo, VdlP 17,Madrid18Norte
So glad you are enjoying the walk,Grace. I'm due to start on the 26th. Love to hear more when you have time.
I'm anxious about the water crossings on the path to Colmenar, were there many? I might take an extra day in Segovia.
 

NualaOC

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
A few and hopefully lots more. See signature.
Well I promised to write about my camino Madrid. As I’ve been dogged with a pesky foot issue I’ve held off posting in case I have to abandon ship.
Bloomin heck, what next!
Suffice to say I’m doing ok and staying in touch with Terry and Paul. We’re a day apart.
Im now in the cute Albergue in Villeguillo on my own. Bliss :)
Unfortunately there is a bubble of 7 now so I zoomed ahead for a quiet night.
From tomorrow we’ll all catch up again.
Im loving this camino. The countryside changes every couple of days.
Fuenfria was a challenge and I nearly froze my tips (fingers) off ! Is this September?
So I’ll maybe do a summary post when I finish.
All I can say is - love love love it (oh,and give yourself a few extra days in Segovia - preciosa
Cheers grace
Hi Grace, glad you're loving the Camino de Madrid. Hope your foot settles soon.

If you're heading to Alcazarén today, the albergue is very nice. @timr 's post might be helpful re. food options. It's no.34 in this thread. I wish I'd read it before trying to find somewhere to eat 😀

Buen Camino! Nuala
 
Camino(s) past & future
'03CF, '08VdlP, '12Porto, '14VdlP via Port '15CPI ‘17Levante to Toledo
Perfect timing Nuala. I’ve arrived to Alcazaren and completed ‘pilgrim work’ for the day. Heading out to info office and later food. Will look for timr’s bar.
Gorgeous walk today. Very misty start from Villeguillo but I saw lots of deer skipping across the path ahead of me. Pilgrims do make a lot of scary noise after all ;)
 

Anthony Rocco

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2014, Ignaciano +Aragones +Parts of Frances 2016, Salvador, Primitivo, Ingles (2017)
We are 2 pilgrims (Canadian and an Aussie) starting out from Madrid the morning of Sept 07. Plan on doing the Madrid/Frances/Invierno combination. Anyone else?
My wife and I start Madrid tomorrow, September 22. Any advice from those on this thread who started earlier this month would be most welcome. We're in good shape, having walked the Ignaciano from Loyola to Logrono before hopping a bus to come to Madrid. That walk is very tough; we are anticipating a less challenging Camino.
 

lindam

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, Via de La Plata, Portuguese, Camino Ingles, Fisterra, Muxia, Catalan and Aragones, Norte
Enjoy your Camino! I will be following in your footsteps beginning on 26 September.
 
Camino(s) past & future
'03CF, '08VdlP, '12Porto, '14VdlP via Port '15CPI ‘17Levante to Toledo
Anthony you’ll love this camino. Im in Leon now having finished in Sahagun yesterday (horrrrrrrrible to meet the hoardes after the peace of Camino Madrid)
Advice: contact Ray and Rosa a day or two before you get to Manzanares and make sure you’re in contact via Whatsapp. They go out of their way to accommodate pilgrims and even pickup if convenient. They offer a home cooked meal (donate as you would ) with home grown veggies.
In early Sept the youth hostels in Cercedilla were closed so I stayed in a Hostal Aribel. Basic but at far end of the long Village. Tip: buy your lunch/snacks for the Fuenfria summit from the Dia as you enter Fuenfria. It’s a long walk back otherwise and not much choice at the Hostal Aribel end of town. Eat at the lovely restaurant upstairs, oposite ( a little to the left) if you are standing in the doorway of the train station
Tip: stay in Segovia for at least 2 nights. It’s an awesome wee city to wander and the food ( specialties cochinillo and ternera).
I can recommend restaurant José María.
I’ve heard the Albergue in Zamarramala is nice
I stayed in Santa María la Real de Nueva. Albergue a bit small (4 of us) and town is sweet. Limited supplies. Great walk through pine forests. These days are wonderful. Easy walking.
Next stop was Villeguillo where I had the entire Albergue to myself. It’s a tiny pueblo but the bar is a hoot. If you pre- order the owner will make your dinner at any time. Bar open all day.
Alcazaren was a really clean and pretty Albergue. A couple of bars. The first one as you enter before arriving at iglesia De Santiago has food and a lovely local rose wine
Pick up the key for Albergue from Bar Real ( right on camino in the village)
Favourite pueblo and Albergue: Penaflor de Hornija. Get key from the only bar (Hornija) in main sq. Everyone we met was so friendly. The way after here takes a strange route zig-zagging through hundreds of wind towers under construction- if you follow the arrows. Either use your own or other downloaded paths to take a more direct route. Probably 3km more following the arrows.
The next gorgeous place is Rioseco. No Albergue at the moment but I stayed at Hostal Castilla. Central but a bit lacking in... in... well, in everything. It was a bed and cheap ;)
The next day is beautiful along the right of the canal. Very easy Walk to Cuenca where there is an awesome bar/ restaurant.
Stayed a bit further on in Villalon. Hospitalero in the Albergue all the time. Big and well equipped kitchen. Strange town. The bars don’t really serve food. It’s a town of many older people. Stock up on food in one of the supermarkets for the next day if you’re going all the way to Grajal as there are no bars for 30 km.
If you stop in Santervas the Hospitaleros will prepare you a dinner ( depends on donations from pilgrims day before ;):))
So the highlight was the village of Grajal- the palace Albergue and the amazing bar/ restaurant. Try to arrive for the menu del dia.
Next day a doddle to Sahagun. A train leaves for Leon just before 2pm.
Enjoy, Grace
 

lindam

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, Via de La Plata, Portuguese, Camino Ingles, Fisterra, Muxia, Catalan and Aragones, Norte
Thank you for sharing these comprehensive notes. The information will be very useful when I start walking this route next week on Thursday!
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
Anthony you’ll love this camino. Im in Leon now having finished in Sahagun yesterday (horrrrrrrrible to meet the hoardes after the peace of Camino Madrid)
Advice: contact Ray and Rosa a day or two before you get to Manzanares and make sure you’re in contact via Whatsapp. They go out of their way to accommodate pilgrims and even pickup if convenient. They offer a home cooked meal (donate as you would ) with home grown veggies.
In early Sept the youth hostels in Cercedilla were closed so I stayed in a Hostal Aribel. Basic but at far end of the long Village. Tip: buy your lunch/snacks for the Fuenfria summit from the Dia as you enter Fuenfria. It’s a long walk back otherwise and not much choice at the Hostal Aribel end of town. Eat at the lovely restaurant upstairs, oposite ( a little to the left) if you are standing in the doorway of the train station
Tip: stay in Segovia for at least 2 nights. It’s an awesome wee city to wander and the food ( specialties cochinillo and ternera).
I can recommend restaurant José María.
I’ve heard the Albergue in Zamarramala is nice
I stayed in Santa María la Real de Nueva. Albergue a bit small (4 of us) and town is sweet. Limited supplies. Great walk through pine forests. These days are wonderful. Easy walking.
Next stop was Villeguillo where I had the entire Albergue to myself. It’s a tiny pueblo but the bar is a hoot. If you pre- order the owner will make your dinner at any time. Bar open all day.
Alcazaren was a really clean and pretty Albergue. A couple of bars. The first one as you enter before arriving at iglesia De Santiago has food and a lovely local rose wine
Pick up the key for Albergue from Bar Real ( right on camino in the village)
Favourite pueblo and Albergue: Penaflor de Hornija. Get key from the only bar (Hornija) in main sq. Everyone we met was so friendly. The way after here takes a strange route zig-zagging through hundreds of wind towers under construction- if you follow the arrows. Either use your own or other downloaded paths to take a more direct route. Probably 3km more following the arrows.
The next gorgeous place is Rioseco. No Albergue at the moment but I stayed at Hostal Castilla. Central but a bit lacking in... in... well, in everything. It was a bed and cheap ;)
The next day is beautiful along the right of the canal. Very easy Walk to Cuenca where there is an awesome bar/ restaurant.
Stayed a bit further on in Villalon. Hospitalero in the Albergue all the time. Big and well equipped kitchen. Strange town. The bars don’t really serve food. It’s a town of many older people. Stock up on food in one of the supermarkets for the next day if you’re going all the way to Grajal as there are no bars for 30 km.
If you stop in Santervas the Hospitaleros will prepare you a dinner ( depends on donations from pilgrims day before ;):))
So the highlight was the village of Grajal- the palace Albergue and the amazing bar/ restaurant. Try to arrive for the menu del dia.
Next day a doddle to Sahagun. A train leaves for Leon just before 2pm.
Enjoy, Grace
I see we have another afficionado of that bar in Villeguillo :D

PS (I'm sure it's a typo because Dia Market in Cercedilla is very soon after you enter Cercedilla and not Fuenfria ;) )
 
Camino(s) past & future
'03CF, '08VdlP, '12Porto, '14VdlP via Port '15CPI ‘17Levante to Toledo
Oops yes, writing in a bar on my phone causes some very ambiguous instructions. Or was it the two vermuts? Sorry.
So in Cercedilla when you enter the village there is a Dia supermarket. If you need to buy food for your ‘summit to Fuenfria ‘ the next day, it’s a good idea to get it here.
If you’re staying in the youth hostels or the same Hostal I stayed in, they are about 2-3 km further on through the village. They are closer to the camino exit for the morning.
The train station is also at that end.
There were not many choices of places to eat in September with many places closed for holidays.
I ate at a lovely little restaurant situated opposite the main door of the train station. Just look to your left a bit and you’ll see it. It’s upstairs.
I hope that fixes my bumble above :)
Cheers G
 

Kanga

Moderator
Staff member
Camino(s) past & future
Francés x 5, Le Puy x 2, Arles, Tours, Norte, Madrid, Via de la Plata, Portuguese, Primitivo
If you intend staying at the youth hostels, check that they are indeed open before you leave Cercedilla. Neither was when we were there last year, and it is quite a walk to come back into town. We finished up sleeping on mats in the Polideportivo, very kindly opened for us by the Guardia Civil.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
I have stayed both in the Aribel and the youth hostal Villa Castora. I really liked the albergue juvenil, they had set aside a few double rooms off to the left and saved them for peregrinos. Maybe that is no longer the case, but I would definitely try for that. It’s in a very nice wooded location as well, great for lounging around.

In early Sept the youth hostels in Cercedilla were closed so I stayed in a Hostal Aribel. Basic but at far end of the long Village... Eat at the lovely restaurant upstairs, oposite ( a little to the left) if you are standing in the doorway of the train station
And, like you, I also had a great meal in the nice little restaurant, upstairs. I am trying to find the name, both to jog my own memory and help others. There seem to be two close to the train station, the Helio and the Gomez.

I think it was the Gomez, what do you think Grace?
 

Attachments

Camino(s) past & future
'03CF, '08VdlP, '12Porto, '14VdlP via Port '15CPI ‘17Levante to Toledo
I have stayed both in the Aribel and the youth hostal Villa Castora. I really liked the albergue juvenil, they had set aside a few double rooms off to the left and saved them for peregrinos. Maybe that is no longer the case, but I would definitely try for that. It’s in a very nice wooded location as well, great for lounging around.



And, like you, I also had a great meal in the nice little restaurant, upstairs. I am trying to find the name, both to jog my own memory and help others. There seem to be two close to the train station, the Helio and the Gomez.

I think it was the Gomez, what do you think Grace?
I didn’t note the name, sorry. The lady in the farmacia nearby just said I should walk around the corner and head upstairs when I see the open door.
 

Anthony Rocco

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2014, Ignaciano +Aragones +Parts of Frances 2016, Salvador, Primitivo, Ingles (2017)
Enjoy your Camino! I will be following in your footsteps beginning on 26 September
We're in Segovia. Relief. Took us 9+ hours door-to-door. Relaxing now. Some tips:

1. Be sure to stop at the Church of Santiago in Madrid for a credencial and stamp. Donativo, and both are very cool. I have a stack of credenciales from the Caminos we've walked, and this is my new favorite. Go at 11am to the sacristy.
2. It was raining the morning we were leaving but we didn't want to walk through city anyway. Took an early subway to Plaza de las Castillas, then 726 bus. 724 and 725 also go to Tres Santos and Colmenar. 30 minutes.
3. Stayed at Ray y Ross's in Manzanares, a unique pilgrim experience. I called several days before. There are only five beds, so they can fill up. We had five our night. Call again on arrival and she will pick up. Their place is not in center. Communal dinner. All donativo. They are wonderful. She drives all to the start of the next stage early, before dawn. Not a problem.
4. Lovely walking in the hills all three first days. Amazing beauty.
5. Long day today was worth it. Can be tricky after a few kms. Don't miss the Roman road, Via Calzada off to your right about 3 kms up. No signs, arrows! It takes you all the way to the top.
6. Albergue just beyond Segovia is closed. We chose to pamper ourselves a bit at the Hostal Fornos near the Plaza Mayor. Glad we did. Very nice. Decided to stay an extra night and enjoy Segovia before we make tracks north.

Jim
 

Anthony Rocco

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2014, Ignaciano +Aragones +Parts of Frances 2016, Salvador, Primitivo, Ingles (2017)
Anthony you’ll love this camino. Im in Leon now having finished in Sahagun yesterday (horrrrrrrrible to meet the hoardes after the peace of Camino Madrid)
Advice: contact Ray and Rosa a day or two before you get to Manzanares and make sure you’re in contact via Whatsapp. They go out of their way to accommodate pilgrims and even pickup if convenient. They offer a home cooked meal (donate as you would ) with home grown veggies.
In early Sept the youth hostels in Cercedilla were closed so I stayed in a Hostal Aribel. Basic but at far end of the long Village. Tip: buy your lunch/snacks for the Fuenfria summit from the Dia as you enter Fuenfria. It’s a long walk back otherwise and not much choice at the Hostal Aribel end of town. Eat at the lovely restaurant upstairs, oposite ( a little to the left) if you are standing in the doorway of the train station
Tip: stay in Segovia for at least 2 nights. It’s an awesome wee city to wander and the food ( specialties cochinillo and ternera).
I can recommend restaurant José María.
I’ve heard the Albergue in Zamarramala is nice
I stayed in Santa María la Real de Nueva. Albergue a bit small (4 of us) and town is sweet. Limited supplies. Great walk through pine forests. These days are wonderful. Easy walking.
Next stop was Villeguillo where I had the entire Albergue to myself. It’s a tiny pueblo but the bar is a hoot. If you pre- order the owner will make your dinner at any time. Bar open all day.
Alcazaren was a really clean and pretty Albergue. A couple of bars. The first one as you enter before arriving at iglesia De Santiago has food and a lovely local rose wine
Pick up the key for Albergue from Bar Real ( right on camino in the village)
Favourite pueblo and Albergue: Penaflor de Hornija. Get key from the only bar (Hornija) in main sq. Everyone we met was so friendly. The way after here takes a strange route zig-zagging through hundreds of wind towers under construction- if you follow the arrows. Either use your own or other downloaded paths to take a more direct route. Probably 3km more following the arrows.
The next gorgeous place is Rioseco. No Albergue at the moment but I stayed at Hostal Castilla. Central but a bit lacking in... in... well, in everything. It was a bed and cheap ;)
The next day is beautiful along the right of the canal. Very easy Walk to Cuenca where there is an awesome bar/ restaurant.
Stayed a bit further on in Villalon. Hospitalero in the Albergue all the time. Big and well equipped kitchen. Strange town. The bars don’t really serve food. It’s a town of many older people. Stock up on food in one of the supermarkets for the next day if you’re going all the way to Grajal as there are no bars for 30 km.
If you stop in Santervas the Hospitaleros will prepare you a dinner ( depends on donations from pilgrims day before ;):))
So the highlight was the village of Grajal- the palace Albergue and the amazing bar/ restaurant. Try to arrive for the menu del dia.
Next day a doddle to Sahagun. A train leaves for Leon just before 2pm.
Enjoy, Grace
Fantastic! We're in Segovia now, spending two nights. We also stay ed in the Aribel. We will follow your advice the rest of the way. Interestingly, we had planned to stay at the same towns you indicated except that we are taking the afternoon bus from Alcazaron to Valladolid where we will spend the evening and next morning before taking a bus to resume our camino. Thanks soooo much.

We end in Sahagun. We did the Frances in 2014 and thought it was busy then. We have been doing less traveled Caminos since then. This year we have encountered very few fellow pilgrims on either the Ignaciano or Madrid. It's the villagers who are so warm and helpful that makes these less traveled Caminos so special and unforgettable.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
...
2. It was raining the morning we were leaving but we didn't want to walk through city anyway. Took an early subway to Plaza de las Castillas, then 726 bus. 724 and 725 also go to Tres Santos and Colmenar. 30 minutes.
...
Oh, you complicated your life with that transport a little bit :)
There's Cercanias line C4 directly to Colmenar Viejo/Tres Cantos from Puerta del Sol metro station which is very central given the size of Madrid.

Buen Camino!
 

Anthony Rocco

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2014, Ignaciano +Aragones +Parts of Frances 2016, Salvador, Primitivo, Ingles (2017)
Oh, you complicated your life with that transport a little bit :)
There's Cercanias line C4 directly to Colmenar Viejo/Tres Cantos from Puerta del Sol metro station which is very central given the size of Madrid.

Buen Camino!
Depends on where you are staying. We were a few steps away from the Plaza de Espana. We didn't want to walk in the rain to Sol or take subway there when we could get to Castilla easily. But good for others to know options. We were originally going to stay near Sol but it was booked.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
Depends on where you are staying. We were a few steps away from the Plaza de Espana. We didn't want to walk in the rain to Sol or take subway there when we could get to Castilla easily. But good for others to know options. We were originally going to stay near Sol but it was booked.
The first time I was in Madrid I also stayed in the side street off the Plaza de Espana. But then again I start my Camino walking exactly from there on Gran Via towards Cibeles and Plaza de Castilla. The rest is history ;)
 

Anthony Rocco

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2014, Ignaciano +Aragones +Parts of Frances 2016, Salvador, Primitivo, Ingles (2017)
The first time I was in Madrid I also stayed in the side street off the Plaza de Espana. But then again I start my Camino walking exactly from there on Gran Via towards Cibeles and Plaza de Castilla. The rest is history ;)
We were purists on our first Camino years ago, walking every step. No short cuts. With each new Camino, we tailor them to what we like. Our bus to Valladolid from Alcazren won't be followed by a bus ride back there. We'll bus to Simancas.
 

Anthony Rocco

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2014, Ignaciano +Aragones +Parts of Frances 2016, Salvador, Primitivo, Ingles (2017)
I will also be following on 26th so would love to hear how you go . Buen Camino.
In Valladolid. Three days of long walks. Some tips:

1. While it's a 32 km walk from Segovia center to Santa Maria Real de Nieva, it's worth it. Great albergue there.

When you get to Zumaramalla, especially if you are leaving Segovia early, don't miss the left turn at the church. If you keep going straight, you will be way off the path.

Once you are several kms out of town, the signpost indicates you can left directly to Los Huertos. Take it. Saves a few kms in a long day. Your feet will thank you.

No bars open in any villages along the way. Bring food and water.

While it will be cold in the morning, it gets hot under the sun by 11am. Layer your clothing, peeling off as needed.

When you get to Santa Maria, the albergue is down the street which is just to the right of the church. There is a teeny ermita at the end of the block, turn right and you are there. Call Javier...numbers are on the door. He came in five minutes. Nice set up. We made our own dinners, buying from the well stocked tienda back in town center. Bars were closed because of a fiesta in a nearby town.

2. It was a 29 km walk the next day, but much shorter time. Villeguillo is a must stay. Kikey the bar keep (and everything else) was so much fun. Cooks up a meal you can't possibly finish. Includes drink, coffee and Santiago liquoer, something I never heard of. Foul stuff, however, a bit like grappa.

Nava Asuncion was a bust for us as we arrived too early for the Panaderia Rosana, which opens at 11. Talked to two French pellerin who stayed at the albergue there. Said it was two bunks in a shed on a football field. Showed me photos. Weird. They loved the albergue in Villeguillo in contrast.

We were so far ahead in terms of time on this walk that we spent over an hour in Coca. Great stop. Everything open. Visited the castle, San Nicolas tower and church. Got sellos at the castle and ayuntamiento.

3. Walked to Valkdestillas today. We estimate it was 35kms to the train station. Nothing interesting all day, so that's why kept going caught the 16:22 train for Valledollid. 10 minutes later we were there. No tickets were sold, so it was a free ride.

Valledollid is a delight. Full of life. While we loved Segovia, that's a tourist city. Valledollid rocks.
 

lindam

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, Via de La Plata, Portuguese, Camino Ingles, Fisterra, Muxia, Catalan and Aragones, Norte
Thanks for your very helpful comments. Will definitely be useful in the coming days. Just one question: what is the name of the church you referred to when leaving Segovia?
 

timr

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Several and counting...
Nava Asuncion was a bust for us as we arrived too early for the Panaderia Rosana, which opens at 11. Talked to two French pellerin who stayed at the albergue there. Said it was two bunks in a shed on a football field. Showed me photos. Weird. They loved the albergue in Villeguillo in contrast.
@Anthony Rocco
Thanks for a really helpful post.
I stayed at that albergue in Nava de la Asunción in 2017 (and I think it was new then). Yes it is a bit strange ;) but it really does do the job!! It is a fairly standard 'polideportivo-type' of albergue. Here is what I said at the time...

I called into ayuntamiento who gave me sello and directions for contacting Raúl who would let me into albergue. There was a poster at a noticeboard just before the town with details too. A bewildering number of contact people and phone numbers. The albergue is new(ish) at the polideportivo. There was an earlier one in the bullring it seems. Raúl came promptly when called and let me in and gave me key. You are 'locked in' a football pitch! Spotlessly clean. Four bunks. Microwave. Fridge. Shower and toilet. Hospitalera Clara called later to offer help and collect €5. Excellent. Raúl recommended hotel opposite to eat, Fray Sebastian. I'm sure the guys in the hotel bar would help you contact Raúl or Clara if you were having trouble. Such a good and generous provision by the ayuntamiento.

The hotel was about 50m away. It looked quite imposing - new and smart. It's very friendly though, with the charm of a village bar. I had a couple of cañas and raciones of pulpo and mejillones for 'lunch' keeping a vague eye on Rafael Nadal at the Madrid Open. There was an extremely upmarket restaurant open at lunch time.

But even better, there was a menu del día in the bar at 9pm. Good choice of dishes. €12 including extra drinks. Accompanied by Real Madrid v Atletico Madrid. I only watch a football match about twice a year, but this was quite
emocionante. As a congenital supporter of the underdog I was disappointed by the result. But no one else seemed to be.
 

Anthony Rocco

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2014, Ignaciano +Aragones +Parts of Frances 2016, Salvador, Primitivo, Ingles (2017)
Thanks for your very helpful comments. Will definitely be useful in the coming days. Just one question: what is the name of the church you referred to when leaving Segovia?
It's the one and only church in Zumaramalla, 3km from Segovia. Never caught the name.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
The church in Zamarramala (not Zumaramalla) is Iglesia de Sta.Maria Magdalena. Can't miss it in such small village :)
 

MercedesMadrileña

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Inglés, francés, portugués and Madrid
Thanks for your very helpful comments. Will definitely be useful in the coming days. Just one question: what is the name of the church you referred to when leaving Segovia?
Linda you must be so careful. Make sure you find the PUERTA DE SANTIAGO(follow the ACCESO PEATONAL signs) . The left turn is by the first traffic light you will see passing the iron bridge, you will walk through, parallel to the Zamarramala’s road. The church has a round shape
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
Linda you must be so careful. Make sure you find the PUERTA DE SANTIAGO(follow the ACCESO PEATONAL signs) . The left turn is by the first traffic light you will see passing the iron bridge, you will walk through, parallel to the Zamarramala’s road. The church has a round shape
What you are referring to is not the church IN Zamarramala. Maybe you mean the Iglesia de la Vera Cruz just before Zamarramala which is in fact octagonal and not round ;)

The Camino in/through Zamarramala indeed makes 90 degrees left turn before the Iglesia de Sta.Maria Magdalena.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
What you are referring to is not the church IN Zamarramala. Maybe you mean the Iglesia de la Vera Cruz just before Zamarramala which is in fact octagonal and not round ;)

The Camino in/through Zamarramala indeed makes 90 degrees left turn before the Iglesia de Sta.Maria Magdalena.
And Vera Cruz with its twelve sides https://es.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iglesia_de_la_Vera_Cruz_(Segovia) is reminiscent of Eunate with its eight. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Church_of_Saint_Mary_of_Eunate But minus the lovely tower.

Though I’ve been past and admired both churches several times, I’ve only been able to enter Eunate once and have never been inside Vera Cruz. Did anyone on the Camino de Madrid manage to get inside? I think it may be more difficult than getting inside the church at Wamba (which actually turns out to be not so hard to visit, just my lack of information)
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
And Vera Cruz with its twelve sides https://es.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iglesia_de_la_Vera_Cruz_(Segovia) is reminiscent of Eunate with its eight. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Church_of_Saint_Mary_of_Eunate But minus the lovely tower.

Though I’ve been past and admired both churches several times, I’ve only been able to enter Eunate once and have never been inside Vera Cruz. Did anyone on the Camino de Madrid manage to get inside? I think it may be more difficult than getting inside the church at Wamba (which actually turns out to be not so hard to visit, just my lack of information)
Ups, my bad :D
So it's 12 and not 8, hahaha. Thank you Laurie. Even with my memory for details you can never be sure. Or I can't be ;) Nevertheless both Eunate (which I did see the interior in 2009) and Vera Cruz are beautiful. Wamba is also waiting for another CdM.
 
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timr

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Several and counting...
And Vera Cruz with its twelve sides https://es.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iglesia_de_la_Vera_Cruz_(Segovia) is reminiscent of Eunate with its eight. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Church_of_Saint_Mary_of_Eunate But minus the lovely tower.

Though I’ve been past and admired both churches several times, I’ve only been able to enter Eunate once and have never been inside Vera Cruz. Did anyone on the Camino de Madrid manage to get inside? I think it may be more difficult than getting inside the church at Wamba (which actually turns out to be not so hard to visit, just my lack of information)
No it was closed resolutely when I passed. And I got to Wamba on a Sunday and found it closed too. 😔
BUT not only did I manage a long visit to the church in Eunate in 2009 but also stayed in the very small albergue which was next to it at the time, run by a couple who, at that time, stayed for a year (organized by the diocese. The couple then were Dutch or possibly Belgian I think. It remains one of my standout memories of all Caminos). The couple cooked an evening meal and we went to the church for night prayer afterwards.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
No it was closed resolutely when I passed. And I got to Wamba on a Sunday and found it closed too. 😔
BUT not only did I manage a long visit to the church in Eunate in 2009 but also stayed in the very small albergue which was next to it at the time, run by a couple who, at that time, stayed for a year (organized by the diocese. The couple then were Dutch or possibly Belgian I think. It remains one of my standout memories of all Caminos). The couple cooked an evening meal and we went to the church for night prayer afterwards.
When I was there in 2009 the man that was mending the church that day asked me if I speak Russian when I said I'm coming from Slovenia (former Yugoslavia - everyone from the west thinks that Yugoslavia was behind the iron curtain and occupied by Soviets but it was actually not ;) ). And by coincidence I did learn Russian for four years in high school. I forgot a lot by then but we were still able to exchange some sentences. Although I think he was Spaniard but not sure. Maybe he was hospitalero too.

EDIT:
I checked my notes and he was indeed a local guy, member of a communist party but he still took care of that church in Eunate the day I was there.
 
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Anthony Rocco

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2014, Ignaciano +Aragones +Parts of Frances 2016, Salvador, Primitivo, Ingles (2017)
The church in Zamarramala (not Zumaramalla) is Iglesia de Sta.Maria Magdalena. Can't miss it in such small village :)
More updates on my Camino Madrid walk.

Nice stop in Vallodolid which we loved. In the early morning at a bus stop, a man pulled up in a Mercedes saying he was a devotee of the Camino and gave us a ride to where we left off.

Highlights of the next four days:

1. Lovely walk to Penaflor. Don't miss Wamba. Nice statue of this Visigoth King and a fountain with cool water. Stop at the Bar Rincon. Excellent break. When you are walking in the town, you will pass by a terrace gate labelled Rinconada and you can see tables and chairs inside. The gate is locked. Walk back ten steps and go down the tiny alley. The door is open.

At Penaflor, go straight to the Plaza Mayor and the Bar Hornija. The bar keep will call the senora with the keys to the albergue. 3 Euros per night. Super mercado at the end of the street of the bar, but the bar has a superb menu del dia.

Next day we walked to Medina del Rio Seco. Another easy walk on the meseta. Bar in Castromonte was open for breakfast, and we grabbed bocadillos para levarse. Just before the bridge at the entrance to Medina is the donativo albergue. Walk in the front gate marked Convention, go across the garden a bit right in the open door and ring the timbre. A brother will check you in. Very nice stay. I urge all to explore Medina and especially take either the 4:15 or 5:39 tours of the two churches. The retablo in the church of Santiago is the only one in all of Spain that has his whole in sculpture. Amazing.

The next day started with a pleasant walk along the canal. We stopped to eat in Cuenca. Wonderful bar. Don't forget to congratulate the bar keep on their champion greyhound. You can't miss all the posters on the wall.

Loved the albergue in Villalon. Our favorite. Pepe and Pedro are hospitaleros, and Is non stop fun. Pedro does the cooking. Albergue is 5 Euros.

Today we walked to Grajal. Again, a wonderful albergue...5 Euros...in a 500 year old building.

Tomorrow Sahagun, just 6 KMS away. We plan to arrive around 9:30 expecting the hoardes to have cleared about by then.

Signing out. Loved this Camino. Many fond memories.
 

Anthony Rocco

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2014, Ignaciano +Aragones +Parts of Frances 2016, Salvador, Primitivo, Ingles (2017)
One final note: We arrived in Sahagun, and because we love cultural sights, visited the key ones on this historic town. I want to note that as the Camino de Madrid, unlike other caminos, enters Sahagun at the Monastery where the statue of the Senora Peregrina is housed, it's no effort to stop there. Please do. The office there will present you with an awesome certificate with your name on it. No cost.

Finally (and I mean it this time), we saw more peregrinos on the first ten seconds of entering Sahagun than we had seen on the entire Camino de Madrid. It seemed like an endless parade. When we stopped at a bar for coffee we heard horror stories of having to take a taxi 30 KMS away to get a room.

Fortunately, we were done. We had done our Camino combo for this year (Ignaciano and Madrid), and will continue to do these rather than fight the mobs on the Frances.
 

KinkyOne

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
I'am not perfect, but I'm always myself!!!
One final note: We arrived in Sahagun, and because we love cultural sights, visited the key ones on this historic town. I want to note that as the Camino de Madrid, unlike other caminos, enters Sahagun at the Monastery where the statue of the Senora Peregrina is housed, it's no effort to stop there. Please do. The office there will present you with an awesome certificate with your name on it. No cost.

Finally (and I mean it this time), we saw more peregrinos on the first ten seconds of entering Sahagun than we had seen on the entire Camino de Madrid. It seemed like an endless parade. When we stopped at a bar for coffee we heard horror stories of having to take a taxi 30 KMS away to get a room.

Fortunately, we were done. We had done our Camino combo for this year (Ignaciano and Madrid), and will continue to do these rather than fight the mobs on the Frances.
Oh, yes, I remember this. I got myself a few cans of beer and took the rest in the shade just after Arco de San Benito (if you come from CF) on the righthand side. I was feeling like I came to an airport or a metro station at the best :D :D :D

One really must be prepared for this if coming from less walked routes that merge with Frances.
 

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