Camino del Norte -Alternative Stage 18 and 19

[Peregrina 2013]

In reading my new "Guía Práctica del Camino de Santiago, Camino del Norte" by Carlos Mencos, he recommends going from Sebrayo to Vega de Sariego, and Vega de Sariego to Oviedo. Mencos emphasizes both a visit to Valdediós (noting that it is not part of the Camino, but it should be), and to Oviedo. He states that it is a disadvantage to not stop at the Cathedral in Oviedo, and visit the Holy Chamber. It does add another day, but the author gives special importance to this alternative route.

I am inclined to follow this advise but knowing there are so many of you that are veterans of the Camino, I thought I´d pick your brain for thought and guidance! Have you done this alternate route? Do you have any insights for me?

Many Thanks,

Mary

 

[TerryB]

Hi Mary,
Speaking as a 'Christian Pilgrim' I would suggest that Oviedo should be part of your itinary. The old saying "Quien va a Santiago y no al Salvador, visita al criado y deja al Senor" (whoever goes to St James and not the Saviour, visits the servant and leaves aside the Master) refers to the Catedral del San Salvador in Oviedo. The Camara Santa there is well worth a visit (free entry for pilgrims and they have a sello for your credential). For more info. google "Sudarium" which is the headcloth of Christ kept in the Camara Santa.
The route into Oviedo is well marked leaving the Norte just after Villaviciosa. From Oviedo back up to the coast can be uninspiring as the shortest route back to Aviles is nearly all through industrial areas.
Can I suggest that you consider using the Camino Primitivo from Oviedo through Lugo (well worth seeing!!) and on to the Francés at Melide (or Palas do Rey or Arzua)?

Blessings on your planning and walking
Tio Tel

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Mary,
I have taken the "detour" you describe. Went from Villaviciosa to Pola de Siero, with a visit to Valdedios, which is quite amazing. When we walked the Norte, there was no albergue in POla de Siero, but now there is, and I hear it is quite nice.

We spent two days in Oviedo, to visit the cathedral, but also to visit the pre-romanesque Asturian jewels up on Naranco, San Miguel de Lillo and Santa Maria del Naranco. They are both incredible monuments. About a half hour walk from the train station.

The day from Oviedo back to the Norte is uninspiring. The first 14 of so kms were fine, as I recall, not on roads, through some wooded areas. In the town of La Posada we lost the arrows and couldn't find any help from anyone -- not in the library, not in the police station. We wound up on the edge of a very busy, narrow road and it was not pleasant, but we had not This was almost 10 years ago now, so maybe people with more recent experiences can comment on whether the way is better marked.

We found that the way into Aviles from the south missed a lot of the heavy industrial areas that you would pass through if you stayed on the norte and walked Villaviciosa to Gijon to Aviles. The actual entrance into Aviles is suburban residential, and the albergue there is in the old part of town and was quite nice when we were there. Don't know what it's like now.

Terry's right that if you drop down to Oviedo, you have a choice to make. Either head back up to the Norte and Aviles, or continue on the Primitivo from Oviedo into Santiago I've done both of these routes and they are both beautiful. It just depends on whether you want to stick to the norte or do a combined Norte/Primitivo. There are some threads on this topic, and the consensus seems to be that either option is a good one, and that you will probably make the decision based on where the people you have formed friendships with want to go.

Here are some now out of date notes on my stages, but maybe they will be of some help: el-camino-del-norte/topic2829.html
Buen camino, Laurie

p.s. I think that the only thing I would disagree with in your post is the guide's statement that the detour adds "another day" to the norte. It actually adds at least a few days, especially if you take time to see the sights.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Just to add to Terry's post re the Cámara Santa. It is open from about 10.00 - 13.00 and 16.00 to 19.00 (18.00 Sats closed Sundays).00. If you enter the cathedral by the door in the West front when leaving go out the door at the far right of the main altar. The entry to the Cámara Santa is through the cathedral shop. Sello is available here, free entry to the chapel and also paid entry to the cathedral museum which is beyond the chapel.

http://www.spainisculture.com/en/monumentos/asturias/camara_santa.html

Also next to the cathedral, to the right of the west front, is the little church of San Tirso http://www.spain.info/en/conoce/monumentos/asturias/iglesia_de_san_tirso.html

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Terry, Laurie & Tía Valeria,

Thank you so much for your valuable and interesting information! This is going to be a Christian Pilgrim!! So a stop at Valdediós, and a 2-3 day visit in Oviedo will be a must for me! Tía Valeria not only your links to the Cámara Santa and the San Tirso church are very helpful but also the additional information!
Terry, thanks for reminding me of that old saying "Quien va a Santiago y no al Salvador, visita al criado y deja al Señor". Nothing else needs to be said! Oviedo it will be!
Love the thread with your pictures Laurie! I am an architecture buff and never tire of churches, cathedrals, monuments, castles, etc. In a different life my occupation would be to study Pre-Romanesque architecture from about the IX Century to the end of the Catalán Modernisme movement of the XIX Century. And travel travel travel!!

The decision to go on the Primitivo or on to Avilés will be a difficult one, no doubt, but hopefully with no regrets, but with the desire to return and try the route not chosen on this upcoming trip

Mary

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Mary,
I've often had the same thought you describe -- that in another life I would have studied visigothic/pre-romanesque/romanesque architecture! But as things turned out, being a pilgrim on the camino is a good place to dabble in that interest, that's for sure. There are so many incredible sites, and many, like Valdedios, are just a stone's throw from one Camino or another. You will love the route, whichever decision you make in Oviedo. When are you starting out on the Norte?

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Peregrina 2013]

Hi Laurie,

My plan is to begin on the 3rd of May. My flight arrives in Bilbao on the 2nd and I will bus to San Sebastián for the night and on to Irún. My thought is to be in Pasajes that night and then I´ll pace myself accordingly! I can´t wait to be there, so much time planning makes your mouth water with desire to see it all
Will you be traveling the Camino this year Laurie? If so, what´s your route and plan? I see you love to post and help so many of us that are newbies, and I find that remarkable. Thanks so much for all your good insight.
Mary

 

[Tia Valeria]

Hola Mary,
We have just sent you a PM
TerryB and Tia Valeria