Camino del Norte in April/May 2015

[Ariel Mallett]

Hi,

I too am considering walking the Camino del Norte solo next year. It seems that the distances are doable, but I am worried about the weather as I'm going in April/May. I have heard that Alberges are open from Easter onwards, so I do not plan to carry a shelter of any type. I can tell that some people put a lot of planing in before hand--but it appears that some don't even take a map and just walk following the arrows.

How much planning, in terms of maps and planned out sections, is necessary? Is it possible to just get a map and plan each walk at the beginning of every day? If so, where do I get a map that is sufficiently detailed of the Camino del Norte? Is this http://www.csj.org.uk/product/camino-de-santiago-maps/ a complete set of maps for all of caminos or is it just for the Camino Frances? Does anybody have any suggestions for good guides of the Camino del Norte?

Does anybody think that the weather in April will be too harsh/cold? Should I plan on having difficulty finding open accommodation that early in the season? I have also heard that things are more expensive in the off season, is this true?

Also (last question, promise!) would it be possible to combine a number of routes? I am torn between taking the Camino del Norte all the way from Irun to Santiago, or taking it from Irun to Oviedo, then from Oviedo following the Camnio del Salvador to Leon where I would connect to the Camino de Frances. The latter would be longer of course, but I'm also worried it might feel to flustered or hectic, changing routes so often. Is it likely to get lost if I change between routes like this?

Thank you!

 

[wayfarer]

Welcome to the forum Ariel. As I have only walked the Frances I am unable to answer your questions but I'm sure someone on here will have the answers for you soon.

 

[lettinggo]

Hola and welcome to the forum

Take a look at this thread which has some answers to some of your questions:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...el-norte-in-april-may-2015.29882/#post-254117

This thread address the quiestion to 'wing it':
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/can-i-just-wing-it.13413/#post-229951

Lastly, weather will 'probably' be fine -> we will know a week before.
Accommodation will be available, most albergues opens after Easter, but many will be open before.

Your plan for a route is fine. Yes, it will be longer, but this can/will/maybe be a great thing.

You will not really know before you are at the 'fork' changing paths, and you know how you feel, the time you have left, the pilgrims you have met, etc.
I can recommend you to look up at Primitivo, which also 'starts' in Oviedo.
That way you know something about your options, once you have to decide.

Getting lost is probably something most pilgrims do at some point at their Caminos.
Getting back on track is not hard, as you get experience or locals will stop you and direct you the right way.
This is not something to be especially concerned about, in my opinion.

There are several maps out there and personally a map with elevation is what I use the most, as it gives an idea about how the effort will be during the day.
Cicerone Guide/map, Anaya Touring Club (Spanish) Guide/map, Michelin Guide/map, ..

This site has stages and elevation to print, but you may want a guide so you have addresses and phone numbers of lodging.
http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/los-caminos-de-santiago/del-norte/

Then again, you can certainly 'wing it' and be just fine.

Happy planing, your Camino has begun.

Buen Camino
Lettinggo

 

[Tia Valeria]

It is possible to leave the decision re Norte or Primitivo until after Oviedo. The last return to the Norte is from La Espina and local advice wil be worthwhile. If there is snow on the passes then the Norte is the option, if no snow then the Primitivo is possible, the usual advice is that the snow line should be over 2000mts. La Espina is between Bodenaya and Tineo and the route to the coast is on the roads. It is probably still best to check the forecast and decide in Oviedo.

 

[MKalcolm M]

Hi,
A few answers to your questions, firstly the weather. Because the Norte follows the Atlantic coast the weather is changeable and difficult to predict, so you will probably encounter everything from glorious sunshine to rain in biblical proportions. The answer to this is carry a good set of waterproofs, warm fleece for the evenings, and some lighter clothes and sunblock. I walked in May / June 2013, which turned out to be one of the wettest springs in North Spain in living memory, and despite the mud and rain, still had a really good walk.

In my experience, very little planning was necessary. Usually people in the alberges talk about the options for the next day, and its easy to work out what your choices are, depending on how long / short day of walking you want and what the weather is like. Some people worry about this and spend ages poring over guides, but I decided early on that I wasn't going to get stressed over it, and just let the camino unfold in front of me, it worked and allowed for spontaneous activities and friendships to form.

There is a good English guide book called The Northern Caminos see this link to find details
http://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/informationSheet.cfm?isbn=9781852846817.
The author Dave is a contributing member to this forum, and posts updates and information on this here.

Having walked in the spring, I returned in the summer the following year and walked a short stretch in the height of the summer, but found it much less enjoyable. For me it was far too hot, very crowded with tourists and much more expensive. because it was so much quieter in the spring, prices in cafes, bars, restaurants were lower and there was always space in the alberges. The beaches were empty and the locals were all helpful. The camino had a very different feel in the spring, there were more older people walking it, in a relaxed and unhurried way. In summer the age range was much lower and everyone was walking faster, to beat the heat of the day and find a bed early, which gave it more of a competitive and less camaraderie edge. I definitely preferred it in the spring.

As mentioned above, one of the simplest choices is to set off on the Norte, and as you progress towards Villavisocia, decide whether to stay on this route, or head along the Primitivo. There is no rush to make this decision, just see how you feel as you walk along.

Please feel free to ask as many questions as occur to you, its what this forum is all about.

Walking the Norte in the spring was one of the best things I have done in many decades, I had more fun and laughs with other pilgrims than I'd ever anticipated, and it allowed space for time for reflection and valuable insights. If you enjoy it half as much as I did , then you are in for a great walk.

 

[shefollowsshells]

Hi,

I too am considering walking the Camino del Norte solo next year. It seems that the distances are doable, but I am worried about the weather as I'm going in April/May. I have heard that Alberges are open from Easter onwards, so I do not plan to carry a shelter of any type. I can tell that some people put a lot of planing in before hand--but it appears that some don't even take a map and just walk following the arrows.

How much planning, in terms of maps and planned out sections, is necessary? Is it possible to just get a map and plan each walk at the beginning of every day? If so, where do I get a map that is sufficiently detailed of the Camino del Norte? Is this http://www.csj.org.uk/product/camino-de-santiago-maps/ a complete set of maps for all of caminos or is it just for the Camino Frances? Does anybody have any suggestions for good guides of the Camino del Norte?

Does anybody think that the weather in April will be too harsh/cold? Should I plan on having difficulty finding open accommodation that early in the season? I have also heard that things are more expensive in the off season, is this true?

Also (last question, promise!) would it be possible to combine a number of routes? I am torn between taking the Camino del Norte all the way from Irun to Santiago, or taking it from Irun to Oviedo, then from Oviedo following the Camnio del Salvador to Leon where I would connect to the Camino de Frances. The latter would be longer of course, but I'm also worried it might feel to flustered or hectic, changing routes so often. Is it likely to get lost if I change between routes like this?

Thank you!

I left the last days of March and walked the whole month Of April...my sassy hat I was dying to wear was not worn once....my gloves were used to wrap fragile shells ...
Weather of course is always unpredictable but that was my experience.
Buen Camino, you will LOVE this Camino!

 

[jpflavin1]

Hi,

I too am considering walking the Camino del Norte solo next year. It seems that the distances are doable, but I am worried about the weather as I'm going in April/May. I have heard that Alberges are open from Easter onwards, so I do not plan to carry a shelter of any type. I can tell that some people put a lot of planing in before hand--but it appears that some don't even take a map and just walk following the arrows.

How much planning, in terms of maps and planned out sections, is necessary? Is it possible to just get a map and plan each walk at the beginning of every day? If so, where do I get a map that is sufficiently detailed of the Camino del Norte? Is this http://www.csj.org.uk/product/camino-de-santiago-maps/ a complete set of maps for all of caminos or is it just for the Camino Frances? Does anybody have any suggestions for good guides of the Camino del Norte?

Does anybody think that the weather in April will be too harsh/cold? Should I plan on having difficulty finding open accommodation that early in the season? I have also heard that things are more expensive in the off season, is this true?

Also (last question, promise!) would it be possible to combine a number of routes? I am torn between taking the Camino del Norte all the way from Irun to Santiago, or taking it from Irun to Oviedo, then from Oviedo following the Camnio del Salvador to Leon where I would connect to the Camino de Frances. The latter would be longer of course, but I'm also worried it might feel to flustered or hectic, changing routes so often. Is it likely to get lost if I change between routes like this?

Thank you!

Ariel:

Albergues are usually open from April 1st through October. There will be exceptions.

Gronze and Eroski are two website with route options and housing information. If you are going to bring an iPad, phone or other device to access the internet you could plan each day the night before or the next morning in any place with wifi access. There is internet access in most towns and many but not all Albergues. You could also buy the Northern routes guide book by Cicerone (sp.). I prefer the internet guides as they are usually more up to date. There will also be other Pilgrims and you can discuss options each evening with them or just follow the arrows.

Weather can vary year to year but last year was very pleasant in April. I had no rain days until I hit Galacia. That said, I would never walk a Camino without good rain gear. There should be no problems with accommodations and pricing is similar to the Frances. You might spend a few more nights in a hotel. The most I ever spent was 30 euro's and that included breakfast.

You could walk as you suggest the Northern route to Oviedo and the the Salvador from Oviedo to Leon and walk the Frances to Santiago. I have walked the Salvador but never backwards. It might be a little more difficult in interpreting the arrows which only point northward. I would make a posting under the Salvador and get some other opinions on this subject. The Salvador is also sparsely walked and you are unlikely to encounter other Pilgrims. Most people who want to walk different Camino's will switch to the Primitivo in Oviedo. This route is well marked and will have other Pilgrims walking in the April/May time frame.

I would suggest you start out on the Norte and when the time comes to make a decision you decide at that time. When I walked this last year most of the people I had been walking with did switch to the Primitivo. I did meet others along the Norte and later in Santiago connected with those that switched routes.

I hope this information helps and I wish you a pleasant journey.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[Ariel Mallett]

Hi,
A few answers to your questions, firstly the weather. Because the Norte follows the Atlantic coast the weather is changeable and difficult to predict, so you will probably encounter everything from glorious sunshine to rain in biblical proportions. The answer to this is carry a good set of waterproofs, warm fleece for the evenings, and some lighter clothes and sunblock. I walked in May / June 2013, which turned out to be one of the wettest springs in North Spain in living memory, and despite the mud and rain, still had a really good walk.

In my experience, very little planning was necessary. Usually people in the alberges talk about the options for the next day, and its easy to work out what your choices are, depending on how long / short day of walking you want and what the weather is like. Some people worry about this and spend ages poring over guides, but I decided early on that I wasn't going to get stressed over it, and just let the camino unfold in front of me, it worked and allowed for spontaneous activities and friendships to form.

There is a good English guide book called The Northern Caminos see this link to find details
http://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/informationSheet.cfm?isbn=9781852846817.
The author Dave is a contributing member to this forum, and posts updates and information on this here.

Having walked in the spring, I returned in the summer the following year and walked a short stretch in the height of the summer, but found it much less enjoyable. For me it was far too hot, very crowded with tourists and much more expensive. because it was so much quieter in the spring, prices in cafes, bars, restaurants were lower and there was always space in the alberges. The beaches were empty and the locals were all helpful. The camino had a very different feel in the spring, there were more older people walking it, in a relaxed and unhurried way. In summer the age range was much lower and everyone was walking faster, to beat the heat of the day and find a bed early, which gave it more of a competitive and less camaraderie edge. I definitely preferred it in the spring.

As mentioned above, one of the simplest choices is to set off on the Norte, and as you progress towards Villavisocia, decide whether to stay on this route, or head along the Primitivo. There is no rush to make this decision, just see how you feel as you walk along.

Please feel free to ask as many questions as occur to you, its what this forum is all about.

Walking the Norte in the spring was one of the best things I have done in many decades, I had more fun and laughs with other pilgrims than I'd ever anticipated, and it allowed space for time for reflection and valuable insights. If you enjoy it half as much as I did , then you are in for a great walk.

Thank you for the advice, I went ahead and got a copy of Dave's guide on Amazon along with a NatGeo map of Northern Spain. Using that and a list of albergues I will plan my route loosely. I think I will take your advice, it was my gut feeling too, to decide on the last leg of the Camino as I near Oviedo. I decided today to carry a 33L pack, with roughly 12-15lbs of gear inside. This minimalist idea has really got me excited for a month or so of walking with a purpose. I'm feeling pretty good about things already! Regarding the weather, do you think that a set of base layers and one fleece will be enough to keep warm on the cool and rainy days? I'll be bringing good rain gear, to protect from the wind and water, as well but was considering bring a lightly insulated jacket as well. Would that be unnecessary?

Ariel

 

[Tia Valeria]

If you also have the CSJ guides to the Norte and the Primitivo they will help with your planning and also have more detailed directions, as well as lists of albergues etc, than the Cicerone guide. We like both but carried the CSJ guides and wrote into them the extras from the Cicerone. Gronze is a good online source of information too. In April the ability to dress in layers is good - double up the layers in the cold, but be sure you can fit everything comfortably in your pack if it turns really warm. Waterproofs are essential. Our choice is always poncho and trousers but no jackets. We carry 2 fleeces for warmth.
Happy planning and buen Camino

 

[shefollowsshells]

Thank you for the advice, I went ahead and got a copy of Dave's guide on Amazon along with a NatGeo map of Northern Spain. Using that and a list of albergues I will plan my route loosely. I think I will take your advice, it was my gut feeling too, to decide on the last leg of the Camino as I near Oviedo. I decided today to carry a 33L pack, with roughly 12-15lbs of gear inside. This minimalist idea has really got me excited for a month or so of walking with a purpose. I'm feeling pretty good about things already! Regarding the weather, do you think that a set of base layers and one fleece will be enough to keep warm on the cool and rainy days? I'll be bringing good rain gear, to protect from the wind and water, as well but was considering bring a lightly insulated jacket as well. Would that be unnecessary?

Ariel

I took no long johns sort of item...
I took one fleece jacket (icebreaker)
I took a rain jacket
On my legs I had a pair of icebreaker black pants that I sent ahead when I became addicted to my Macabi skirt.
I put that on at like day 7 for the first time ever and never took it off...

 

[Tia Valeria]

@Ariel Mallett . In 2010 we had to buy extra fleeces in Oviedo as we were so cold. Since then we have taken 2 fleeces each, one of which is reversible for extra warmth so works like a jacket. I had a pair of easy dry longjohns and needed them in the evening. I wished I had taken 2 pairs because of needing to wash them. The following time on the Primitivo I had the 2 fleeces plus 2 pairs of long-johns and 2 long sleeved vests. The l-js and vests were very lightweight and dried quickly and I was really glad of them for evenings and at night. I would say don't understimate how cold it can get, but don't weigh yourself down with heavy gear.

On both occasions the cold spell was in May and I walked some days with my rain trousers on for warmth, rather than using the longjohns, as I could remove them easily . Other folk have walked in really warm weather at the same time of year...............like Terry did in 2009.

Expense:- most places are charging 'low season' at that time unless it is actually Semana Santa which is high season. Extra expense could come if there is only private accommodation opened rather than albergues. It is also cheaper away from the coast. Again the guides you have might help you see where the places are open and also give some prices.
Buen Camino

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Hi,

I too am considering walking the Camino del Norte solo next year. It seems that the distances are doable, but I am worried about the weather as I'm going in April/May. I have heard that Alberges are open from Easter onwards, so I do not plan to carry a shelter of any type. I can tell that some people put a lot of planing in before hand--but it appears that some don't even take a map and just walk following the arrows.

How much planning, in terms of maps and planned out sections, is necessary? Is it possible to just get a map and plan each walk at the beginning of every day? If so, where do I get a map that is sufficiently detailed of the Camino del Norte? Is this http://www.csj.org.uk/product/camino-de-santiago-maps/ a complete set of maps for all of caminos or is it just for the Camino Frances? Does anybody have any suggestions for good guides of the Camino del Norte?

Does anybody think that the weather in April will be too harsh/cold? Should I plan on having difficulty finding open accommodation that early in the season? I have also heard that things are more expensive in the off season, is this true?

Also (last question, promise!) would it be possible to combine a number of routes? I am torn between taking the Camino del Norte all the way from Irun to Santiago, or taking it from Irun to Oviedo, then from Oviedo following the Camnio del Salvador to Leon where I would connect to the Camino de Frances. The latter would be longer of course, but I'm also worried it might feel to flustered or hectic, changing routes so often. Is it likely to get lost if I change between routes like this?

Thank you!

Hello Ariel,

Distances are doable now that there are so many more albergues than when I first wanted to walk Del Norte 7 years ago. You may have to stay in some pensiones for 20 euros instead of 10 in albergues, but sometimes a better bed or private bathrooms are just what one needs. And in some cases, they may even be only 10 euros, as is the case in Noja at El Cason, where the pension offers special rates for pilgrims in a double room with private bathroom, as long as you are willing to share the room with another pilgrim should one show up.

Regarding the weather ... just be prepared for anything. I have walked on el Frances three times: gorgeous spring and fall weather, twice, super cold and rainy in May another time. Had to go buy gloves and a sleeping back. Not what I had in mind for the CF in May, let me tell you ;0)

As for directions, you can just follow the arrows most of the time. Caveat being when there are alternatives and out of Deba where one of the local land owners likes to pain faux arrows to lead walkers astray. Plus people in the albergue will gladly point you in the right direction, some have even made a map of the following day (Saturino in Hazas for ex.) I also like to have something to learn about the areas I walk through. There is so much history.

The best maps are in my opinion in the German Jakobsweg book published by Rother. The books are tiny, the maps super detailed, including train and bus stations, always handy should you get injured or wonder how to get to where you are flying out of. I don't understand a word of German but I don't need to only to look at a map.

The other guide I would recommend was published in May of 2104 - doesn't get any more recent than that! It's the Guia practica del Camino de Santiago: Camino del Norte (Costa y primitivo). published by Editorial Buen Camino. For albuergues, I use Eroski, read the comments and then plot the ones of interest on my maps. I then take pictures of all the maps and other info I think I may want to access with my cell phone. As a backup (you know... technology...) I make photocopies of the pages shrunk as much as possible while still being readable. I typically end up with something that is 2X3 inches, and I bin them as I go along.

As for changing routes, there really is no way to know if you are on one or the other - it's always just one step in front of the next. I find your idea of del Salvado interesting. Not because I know something about it, but because I don't, other than having talked with hopitaleras in Pobena who are working on reviving it, including making sure directions are well identified.

You are going to have a fabulous time!

 

[Tia Valeria]

As for changing routes, there really is no way to know if you are on one or the other - it's always just one step in front of the next. .........

Not my experience at all. The Norte has wonderful coast with mountains alongside in places and the Primitivo goes up and over mountain passes with amazing views of further mountain ranges and of places you are heading towards in the distance. The Francés is, no doubt, different again but I cannot comment as I have only walked the far sections from Palas de Rei after reaching there from the Primitivo. One foot in front of the other, yes, but always seeing the changing scenery and appreciating how it changes.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Not my experience at all. The Norte has wonderful coast with mountains alongside in places and the Primitivo goes up and over mountain passes with amazing views of further mountain ranges and of places you are heading towards in the distance. The Francés is, no doubt, different again but I cannot comment as I have only walked the far sections from Palas de Rei after reaching there from the Primitivo. One foot in front of the other, yes, but always seeing the changing scenery and appreciating how it changes.

Please allow me clarify. I did not say that all Caminos are the same, far from it, I was simply addressing this part of Ariel's comment: "I'm also worried it might feel to flustered or hectic, changing routes so often". The fact that you have seascape vs mountain or more or less road will not make anyone flustered or hectic. The transition from one scenary to the next is always gradual, not like leaving NYC to arrive in Kamshatka. It is not as if you are on the highways surrounding NY making, having to jump from one to the other to get to your destination and wondering where you'll end up if you miss your exit. It's just one foot after the other, stress free.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Sorry if I misunderstood your comment and thanks for the clarification.