Camino del Norte May 2023

[debalr57]

Hello! I'm Debby from the Chicago area and am thrilled to be walking my third Camino soon ( del Norte this time, May 1, 2023)! I have time restraints and must be in Santiago by the 28th. So I'll need to bus, train or cab part of the way. Any suggestions as to where it's best to miss, and easiest to bus/train/cab, a bit, in order to save time? I want to walk at least 20 - 25 days. I have two Compostelas so maybe miss the closer stages in Galicia, that tend to be most crowded anyway, and not get a Compostela this Camino?
I sincerely appreciate any input and suggestions!
Thank you so much!

 

[Corned Beef]

The rail line on that section is FEVE and is the "commuter" line for the north. Commuter is a bit of an odd term as the rail line runs through the countryside there with lots of great views of the coast. I was on it just this month

The train is like an urban light rail and on some sections, its on-demand as you have to indicate to the driver if you want to get off or on. Also depending on the distance travelled, you might have to switch trains as the trains relay. You get to a station and everyone, including the driver, gets off and switches over the platform. The arriving train does the same. It's very off-putting if you don't know where the switch happens but the drivers/guards (if present) look after you.

You also pay on the train (cash) or at one of the machines (card) in the stations. In the smaller stations staff, if there are any, work for ADIF and not FEVE or Renfe. A lot of the stations have nothing other than a shelter and can be a distance from a village. Locations are determined by the rolling landscape and gradients. There are no trains after Ribadeo where the Norte turns south.

As regards timetables, you can get them on the Renfe website under the Cercanias/Commuter headings. What was far more useful was the ADIF app on my phone which told me which was the local station, it's location and the arrivals/departures in real time. Renfe app is not much good in FEVE countryside.

Timetables

www.renfe.com

Line map

www.renfe.com

I'll leave others to advise on buses but I saw plenty of Monbus vehicles on the route. Some pics from the train.

 

[JerryStroebele]

Take the bus from Gijon to Aviles. Buen Camino

 

[Sr.Bigote]

In 2017, I wanted to hike over the Pyrenees on the Frances (because I winter trekked the Frances in 2016 and Pyrenees were snow-closed and I had to take the valley). I walked "reverse" from Pamplona to SJPP (a fantastic experience -- daily stories of people telling me I was "going the wrong way" or "is there a problem ahead"? (but I digress). I then jumped by bus from SJPP over to Irun and started the Nortero from Irun, and went as far as Bilbao (about a week, if I remember correctly). I admit that although the Nortero was beautiful (this was in May), I got a little bored with the repetitive scenery, day after day. So, I jumped a bus over to Oviedo and hiked the Primitivo into SdC. I really loved the Primitivo (more rustic and fewer pilgrims). Anyway . . . the total trip was certainly less than a month (I believe about 3 weeks or so). That might be an option to consider.

 

[oursonpolaire]

@Corned Beef is so right about the FEVE which is a lot of fun, and can be taken from anywhere to anywhere along the del Norte to Ribadeo. If nothing else, skip the stage or two out of Santander, and the day into and out of Gijon -- although others will disagree.

The first week, from Irun to Bilbao, is gorgeous but is very tough for a beginning stretch. The Galician run into Santiago is satisfying and is much more pilgrimocentric, but is not as dramatic as the coast. I've done the del Norte a few times and the Galician stretch does not get busy until Arzua.

 

[Dan S.]

Its not a huge savings in time/distance, but I'd take the subway from Bilbao to Portugalete.

 

[JerryStroebele]

Agree Metro Bilbao to Portagalete. I’ve walked it twice, each side of the river. Neither good. Metro good. Buen Camino

 

[annmte]

I'm from Chicago as well and I did the Norte in May last year, including almost all of Laurie's alternatives, which added time/days (took me 42 in all). I took a train from Bilbao to Getxo/Portugalete, and frankly thought the walk out of Portugalete was pretty unpleasant as well, at least until La Arena. But I really loved that transponder bridge between Getxo and Portugalete!

I did the coastal alternative between Santander and Boo, which was spectacular - but the section from Boo to Barreda was the worst of the whole Camino for me. Definitely skippable. I didn't go through Gijon (chose to go through Oviedo instead) - so I can't speak to that section either.

You will love it! Buen Camino!