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LIVE from the Camino Camino Frances in Winter

ieremv

Winter Walker
Time of past OR future Camino
C. Frances: Jan 2023
Hello everyone! I started walking the Camino Francés on 31 December and plan to reach Santiago de Compostela in early February. It’s been an amazing journey so far.

I’m blogging at jeremycamino.wordpress.com as I go, if you’re interested to learn about my “winter” Camino experience. A couple of days behind on posts but trying to catch up! Days and nights have been so full. :)
 
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JimG59

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino de Santiago de Compostela (2022)
Fantastic blog, bookmarked for regular reading. I completed the CF from STJPDP Sept-through October and your blog takes me back. Interestingly you have stayed in a few different towns than us. We have said that when we do the CF again, we will stay in different towns from our first CF.

I thoroughly enjoy seeing your photos and reading your detailed account of your daily activity. Already looking forward to your next update.

I recorded my journey on Polarsteps to give me a good record of my Camino as I travelled across Spain. It’s not too late for you, if you wish, though your blog does similar.
 
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ieremv

Winter Walker
Time of past OR future Camino
C. Frances: Jan 2023
Fantastic blog, bookmarked for regular reading. I completed the CF from STJPDP Sept-through October and your blog takes me back. Interestingly you have stayed in a few different towns than us. We have said that when we do the CF again, we will stay in different towns from our first CF.

I thoroughly enjoy seeing your photos and reading your detailed account of your daily activity. Already looking forward to your next update.

I recorded my journey on Polarsteps to give me a good record of my Camino as I travelled across Spain. It’s not too late for you, if you wish, though your blog does similar.
Thank you! Yes oftentimes we’re staying in different towns because of available places during winter. Forces me to find my own interesting way apart from the Brierley stages.
 

Bradypus

Migratory hermit
Time of past OR future Camino
Too many and too often!
Thank you! Yes oftentimes we’re staying in different towns because of available places during winter. Forces me to find my own interesting way apart from the Brierley stages.
I'm walking the Camino Frances just now. It does feel strange walking past so many closed albergues and bars and hostals. I've just walked a 42km day after my preferred stop at 32km turned out to be unavailable despite an earlier conversation with the hospitalero there. The only open albergue in Fromista is fully booked for tomorrow so I've found a private room there instead. There are huge benefits in walking at this time of year but there are also some challenges which the summer walker might not expect.
 
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FireDragon

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
mid-April 2023 Via Tolosana to Pamplona, Sept CF
I'm walking the Camino Frances just now. It does feel strange walking past so many closed albergues and bars and hostals. I've just walked a 42km day after my preferred stop at 32km turned out to be unavailable despite an earlier conversation with the hospitalero there. The only open albergue in Fromista is fully booked for tomorrow so I've found a private room there instead. There are huge benefits in walking at this time of year but there are also some challenges which the summer walker might not expect.
Benefits versus challenges walking during winter are ????
 

FireDragon

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
mid-April 2023 Via Tolosana to Pamplona, Sept CF
Hello everyone! I started walking the Camino Francés on 31 December and plan to reach Santiago de Compostela in early February. It’s been an amazing journey so far.

I’m blogging at jeremycamino.wordpress.com as I go, if you’re interested to learn about my “winter” Camino experience. A couple of days behind on posts but trying to catch up! Days and nights have been so full. :)
Beautiful photos on your blog and it gives us some idea for the newcomers what lies ahead. Thanks. Buen Camino.
 
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JabbaPapa

"True Pilgrim"
Time of past OR future Camino
100 characters or fewer : see signature details
Our paths crossed very briefly in Roncesvalles, though honestly all I knew of you was "Singapore", though I did at least hear that.

I hope that your Camino is going very well !!

As to the Aprinca, stick to it religiously between Burgos and León, though some Albergues before and after that stretch are open, but not listed.

From Astorga especially, you should look at other lists in a complementary manner, and call up to see if they are open or not. There are also multiple possibilities between Belorado and Burgos not noted in the Aprinca.

Most of the Xunta Albergues in Galicia will be open, despite not being listed on Aprinca.
 

Bradypus

Migratory hermit
Time of past OR future Camino
Too many and too often!
Benefits versus challenges walking during winter are ????
The benefits are primarily those associated with solitude - something in very short supply in peak season. Seeing all the closed albergues and bars simply reinforces that difference. I last walked the Camino Frances in September/October 2016. On the day I left SJPDP in 2016 over 400 people had started on the same day. I'm in Fromista tonight so fairly close to the halfway point. There may be about 8-10 people who walked the stage from Castrojeriz today. About the number I encountered on my second Camino Frances in 2002. A winter Camino is in effect a time-shifting experience. A way for those like myself with very long memories of the Camino to experience the route again without the distraction of huge tour groups or hordes of luggage vans.

The challenges are that your options for food, accommodation and other services are severely limited at this time of year. There is no luggage transport service before O Cebreiro - if you want to walk now then you must be prepared to carry your pack. Which is probably heavier than a summer camino because of winter clothing and waterproofs. That may partly explain why at 60 I am near the top of the current age range. I walked through a brief fall of snow today near Castrojeriz. Many of the smaller villages which in summer have several bars or albergues have NO services in winter. At times you can expect to walk a minimum of 20km between open accomodation. Occasionally more. And there is little or no choice of albergues. Be grateful for what you find. Tonight I am in a hostal room in Fromista because the only open albergue is full. It is a more physically demanding challenge than a summer Camino and one which requires more pre-planning. As a natural solitary I find that price well worth paying.
 

FireDragon

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
mid-April 2023 Via Tolosana to Pamplona, Sept CF
The benefits are primarily those associated with solitude - something in very short supply in peak season. Seeing all the closed albergues and bars simply reinforces that difference. I last walked the Camino Frances in September/October 2016. On the day I left SJPDP in 2016 over 400 people had started on the same day. I'm in Fromista tonight so fairly close to the halfway point. There may be about 8-10 people who walked the stage from Castrojeriz today. About the number I encountered on my second Camino Frances in 2002. A winter Camino is in effect a time-shifting experience. A way for those like myself with very long memories of the Camino to experience the route again without the distraction of huge tour groups or hordes of luggage vans.

The challenges are that your options for food, accommodation and other services are severely limited at this time of year. There is no luggage transport service before O Cebreiro - if you want to walk now then you must be prepared to carry your pack. Which is probably heavier than a summer camino because of winter clothing and waterproofs. That may partly explain why at 60 I am near the top of the current age range. I walked through a brief fall of snow today near Castrojeriz. Many of the smaller villages which in summer have several bars or albergues have NO services in winter. At times you can expect to walk a minimum of 20km between open accomodation. Occasionally more. And there is little or no choice of albergues. Be grateful for what you find. Tonight I am in a hostal room in Fromista because the only open albergue is full. It is a more physically demanding challenge than a summer Camino and one which requires more pre-planning. As a natural solitary I find that price well worth paying.
One reason why I will start my first Camino in mid March…I need to think and not be burdened by hordes of people wanting to taIk. I will be 70 in a few days and for me the Camino is a time for reflection.
 

ieremv

Winter Walker
Time of past OR future Camino
C. Frances: Jan 2023
Our paths crossed very briefly in Roncesvalles, though honestly all I knew of you was "Singapore", though I did at least hear that.

I hope that your Camino is going very well !!

As to the Aprinca, stick to it religiously between Burgos and León, though some Albergues before and after that stretch are open, but not listed.

From Astorga especially, you should look at other lists in a complementary manner, and call up to see if they are open or not. There are also multiple possibilities between Belorado and Burgos not noted in the Aprinca.

Most of the Xunta Albergues in Galicia will be open, despite not being listed on Aprinca.
Thank you for this tip! Did we meet? Where are you now?
 

Walkalong

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Portuguese 2020 & 2022
Frances 2019, 2020 & 2022
Hi Jeremy:
Nice blog, great pictures. I look forward to following you to SdC.
 
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LilleTyksak

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Astorga-Santiago de Compostela (2023)
Hi Jeremy
Just saw your post! I am in another world with crazy wind… first day rain more or less all day, second in winter wonder snow land.

I couldn’t comment on your site, but you can see photos from my days on Instagram: traveler_by_nature.

Buen Camino 🇩👣👣👣
 
Time of past OR future Camino
CF 2006, CP 2013, Salvador2017,
Inglés 2019
Hello everyone! I started walking the Camino Francés on 31 December and plan to reach Santiago de Compostela in early February. It’s been an amazing journey so far.

I’m blogging at jeremycamino.wordpress.com as I go, if you’re interested to learn about my “winter” Camino experience. A couple of days behind on posts but trying to catch up! Days and nights have been so full. :)
I have just begun to read your blog. As others have written, you are presenting it beautifully. I need to stop though, to say your comment on the James Zebedee dude is hilarious... I look forward to the ongoing saga!
 

Marbe2

Active member
Time of past OR future Camino
2015-2019 walked all or more than half of CF 7 times... CP recently cancelled by Covid 19!
If you don't have it already here is a list updated regularly of places that are supposed to be open. Buen Camino, @ieremv !
Don’t only rely on the lIst. Do call ahead and reconfirm the morning you are walking. Weather can suddenly close down an albergue that is is supposed to be open!
 
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ieremv

Winter Walker
Time of past OR future Camino
C. Frances: Jan 2023
DN’tonly relyon thelist! Call ahead and reconfirm the morning you are walking. Weather can suddenly close down an albergue that is is supposed to be open!
Yes fully agreed! We’ve always been calling the day before to confirm.

A mistake I’ve made has been to get a data-only SIM. Not all albergues have WhatsApp. But my fellow pilgrims have been kind enough to do the calls from their phones. I’ll get a full service SIM on my next Camino.
 

Glenshiro

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Le Puy - A Rua, Frances, Invierno (2012 - 2022)
Per Fire Dragon's subscription: "The Three Musketeers," D'Artagnan did exist. It is not certain that Arthos, Portos, Aramis existed with those names but there is a statue of D'Artagnan in the center of the city of AUCH.

Not to derail this excellent blog, but there's a statue of all four musketeers outside the cathedral in Condom in the same departement. On a par with Juliet's balcony in Verona.
 

David Tallan

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Next Camino: Madrid/San Salvador/Primitivo
Per Fire Dragon's subscription: "The Three Musketeers," D'Artagnan did exist. It is not certain that Arthos, Portos, Aramis existed with those names but there is a statue of D'Artagnan in the center of the city of AUCH.

Not to derail this excellent blog, but there's a statue of all four musketeers outside the cathedral in Condom in the same departement. On a par with Juliet's balcony in Verona.
Not to take it further off the rails, but this made me curious. WHile I won't necessarily trust a statue or sculpture as evidence of someone's existence (think of all of the sculptures of Aphrodite!), I will provisionally trust WIkipedia:
Charles de Batz de Castelmore (French pronunciation: [ʃaʁl də bats də kastɛlmɔʁ]), also known as d'Artagnan and later Count d'Artagnan (c. 1611 – 25 June 1673), was a French Musketeer who served Louis XIV as captain of the Musketeers of the Guard. He died at the siege of Maastricht in the Franco-Dutch War. A fictionalised account of his life by Gatien de Courtilz de Sandras formed the basis for the d'Artagnan Romances of Alexandre Dumas, père, most famously including The Three Musketeers (1844). The heavily fictionalised version of d'Artagnan featured in Dumas' works and their subsequent screen adaptations is now far more widely known than the real historical figure.
 

JabbaPapa

"True Pilgrim"
Time of past OR future Camino
100 characters or fewer : see signature details
Per Fire Dragon's subscription: "The Three Musketeers," D'Artagnan did exist.
I have read a part of his autobiography, but stopped because it was quite poorly written.

One of his descendants, part removed, was a landlord of mine once in Paris. A terrible one BTW.
 

Maxsmart

Sierra Peregrina
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances (2015), Camino Frances (2022)
Hello everyone! I started walking the Camino Francés on 31 December and plan to reach Santiago de Compostela in early February. It’s been an amazing journey so far.

I’m blogging at jeremycamino.wordpress.com as I go, if you’re interested to learn about my “winter” Camino experience. A couple of days behind on posts but trying to catch up! Days and nights have been so full. :)
Hi Jeremy, just caught up on your blog and loving it! Last entry is Jan 15 and I’m looking forward to future posts - hope you are still on track!
 
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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that makes the ones you see on your walk.

ieremv

Winter Walker
Time of past OR future Camino
C. Frances: Jan 2023
Hi Jeremy, just caught up on your blog and living it! Last entry is Jan 15 and I’m looking forward to future posts - hope you are still on track!
Appreciate it! Yes I am 4 days behind because every day and night is bringing with it such new and great experiences. Haven’t had a boring day, but hoping to catch up.
 

Ricardo Moretti

Camino Frances x 2: Apr./May 2018 & Apr./May 2019
Time of past OR future Camino
Two Camino Frances:
April-May 2018
April-May 2019
Hello everyone! I started walking the Camino Francés on 31 December and plan to reach Santiago de Compostela in early February. It’s been an amazing journey so far.

I’m blogging at jeremycamino.wordpress.com as I go, if you’re interested to learn about my “winter” Camino experience. A couple of days behind on posts but trying to catch up! Days and nights have been so full. :)
Enjoy your trek.
 
Time of past OR future Camino
CF Spring 2023
Hello everyone! I started walking the Camino Francés on 31 December and plan to reach Santiago de Compostela in early February. It’s been an amazing journey so far.

I’m blogging at jeremycamino.wordpress.com as I go, if you’re interested to learn about my “winter” Camino experience. A couple of days behind on posts but trying to catch up! Days and nights have been so full. :)
Great blog. Lots of great ideas and tips. I think I will also adopt the Rule of the Bench!
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that makes the ones you see on your walk.

truenorthpilgrim

Camino Mermaid 🧜🏻‍♀️
Time of past OR future Camino
CF 2016, 2019, 2023
Podiensis 2019
New one on leaving León just up! Más pronto!!! I am being in the present on the Camino but also trying my best~

Stay present by all means! But also know you now have a fan club ;)
 
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Len Soet

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances
Hello everyone! I started walking the Camino Francés on 31 December and plan to reach Santiago de Compostela in early February. It’s been an amazing journey so far.

I’m blogging at jeremycamino.wordpress.com as I go, if you’re interested to learn about my “winter” Camino experience. A couple of days behind on posts but trying to catch up! Days and nights have been so full. :)
Great blog! Thank you.
 
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donalomahony

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
"Camino from 2013 to 2019" paused for now...
Appreciate it! Yes I am 4 days behind because every day and night is bringing with it such new and great experiences. Haven’t had a boring day, but hoping to catch up.
Thanks for taking the time to write your blog...
 

CWBuff

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances May-June/2022
Finisterre June-July/2022
Just came across it - Great Blog and so happy you are having a wonderful time
I would recommend to check out PhillipATowndrowHikes - Phillip is a fellow Singaporean whom I had a pleasure of walking part of my CF in June 2022. Heck - for all i know you two could be neighbors! 😁

Will continue checking out your blog....
Buen Camino!
 

Phil2866

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Now
Hello everyone! I started walking the Camino Francés on 31 December and plan to reach Santiago de Compostela in early February. It’s been an amazing journey so far.

I’m blogging at jeremycamino.wordpress.com as I go, if you’re interested to learn about my “winter” Camino experience. A couple of days behind on posts but trying to catch up! Days and nights have been so full. :)
Hi My name is Phil I'm planning to start mid feb 2023. Did it snow on the first day over the mountain?
 

Phil2866

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Now
Hello everyone! I started walking the Camino Francés on 31 December and plan to reach Santiago de Compostela in early February. It’s been an amazing journey so far.

I’m blogging at jeremycamino.wordpress.com as I go, if you’re interested to learn about my “winter” Camino experience. A couple of days behind on posts but trying to catch up! Days and nights have been so full. :)
hi Jeremy how are you
 
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FireDragon

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
mid-April 2023 Via Tolosana to Pamplona, Sept CF
Im
Have a check of the webcam at O Cebreiro. Serious bit of snow up there now.

impressive…
 

Bradypus

Migratory hermit
Time of past OR future Camino
Too many and too often!
Have a check of the webcam at O Cebreiro. Serious bit of snow up there now.
I didn't need to check the webcam. Just walked through it! Arrived about an hour ago to find the village full of young families with plastic sledges enjoying the snow. :)

IMG_20230127_164718.jpg
IMG_20230127_165354.jpg

IMG_20230127_164921.jpg

PS. It's still snowing. Might make tomorrow's walking interesting.
 
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Marbe2

Active member
Time of past OR future Camino
2015-2019 walked all or more than half of CF 7 times... CP recently cancelled by Covid 19!
Hi Jeremy, just caught up on your blog and loving it! Last entry is Jan 15 and I’m looking forward to future posts - hope you are still on track!
I Haven’t read the entire trip to date, but what I have read and the pictures have me longing to get out started. Thankyou!
 
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henrythedog

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Many in the past and, God willing; more to come
Really well written blog with great photos. You have tremendous awareness of your surroundings and detail. It took me a while to realise that I was reading it backwards, but it’s that time of night.
 

FireDragon

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
mid-April 2023 Via Tolosana to Pamplona, Sept CF
Winter has arrived and I may leave for Puente la Reina on the CF later than planned. Schedule was to leave France on March 12. Problem is the Semana Santa in Spain…we will see…Crazy weather that’s for sure.
 
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ieremv

Winter Walker
Time of past OR future Camino
C. Frances: Jan 2023
Thank you everyone for the support and kind words on the blog! I’m glad to share that I’ve reached Santiago de Compostela. One week behind on posts, but I will catch up.

Some good news: I have also decided to go to Finisterre and Muxia and will be recording my journey too.
 
How to Successfully Prepare for Your Camino
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Cullo

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Del Norte and Primitivo
Hello everyone! I started walking the Camino Francés on 31 December and plan to reach Santiago de Compostela in early February. It’s been an amazing journey so far.

I’m blogging at jeremycamino.wordpress.com as I go, if you’re interested to learn about my “winter” Camino experience. A couple of days behind on posts but trying to catch up! Days and nights have been so full. :)
Hello from Australia. Just a quick note to say how much my wife (Anne) and I are enjoying your journey. We walked the Camino Frances in 2016 (starting in March) so we have an appreciation of the weather that you are experiencing. We've since walked the Via Podiensis (2018) and the Via Francigena (well that part from Grand St Bernard's Pass to Rome (2019) and can recommend both to you. You obviously enjoy food - a tip....the food on the Via Podiensis was absolutely outstanding!

Your photos are wonderful and really take us back. I have been waiting to see your shots of the section from Astorga into and out of Rabanal (my favourite two days on the CF) and they worth waiting for....thank you so much.

Congratulations on reaching SdC and well done on your wonderful blog. May you get to enjoy more Caminos.
 

ieremv

Winter Walker
Time of past OR future Camino
C. Frances: Jan 2023
Hello from Australia. Just a quick note to say how much my wife (Anne) and I are enjoying your journey. We walked the Camino Frances in 2016 (starting in March) so we have an appreciation of the weather that you are experiencing. We've since walked the Via Podiensis (2018) and the Via Francigena (well that part from Grand St Bernard's Pass to Rome (2019) and can recommend both to you. You obviously enjoy food - a tip....the food on the Via Podiensis was absolutely outstanding!

Your photos are wonderful and really take us back. I have been waiting to see your shots of the section from Astorga into and out of Rabanal (my favourite two days on the CF) and they worth waiting for....thank you so much.

Congratulations on reaching SdC and well done on your wonderful blog. May you get to enjoy more Caminos.
Thank you for this tip! I will look those other Caminos up…after finishing this one!
 

Nomadita

🌟🐚
Time of past OR future Camino
June-July 2021
October 2022
February 2023
Hello everyone! I started walking the Camino Francés on 31 December and plan to reach Santiago de Compostela in early February. It’s been an amazing journey so far.

I’m blogging at jeremycamino.wordpress.com as I go, if you’re interested to learn about my “winter” Camino experience. A couple of days behind on posts but trying to catch up! Days and nights have been so full. :)
Hey! Any tips on must haves for a winter camino? I'm booking to join it in mid Feb where I left it in Frómista in October. So weather was very different!
 
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ieremv

Winter Walker
Time of past OR future Camino
C. Frances: Jan 2023
Hey! Any tips on must haves for a winter camino? I'm booking to join it in mid Feb where I left it in Frómista in October. So weather was very different!
I have a packing list of items on my blog for reference, but I would say essentially a sleeping bag / quilt (I use the latter) for the cold nights.

Commonsensical but different from a summer Camino would be: Some extra layers for morning/night walking (but be sure not to overdo it and weigh down your pack!) Use merino wool or synthetics. And a good rain jacket for potential rain and wind.

I must say that February will present very different weather conditions than January. So just look at the forecast.
 

FireDragon

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
mid-April 2023 Via Tolosana to Pamplona, Sept CF
I have a packing list of items on my blog for reference, but I would say essentially a sleeping bag / quilt (I use the latter) for the cold nights.

Commonsensical but different from a summer Camino would be: Some extra layers for morning/night walking (but be sure not to overdo it and weigh down your pack!) Use merino wool or synthetics. And a good rain jacket for potential rain and wind.

I must say that February will present very different weather conditions than January. So just look at the forecast.
Have you encountered albergues where the dorms were not heated?
 

ieremv

Winter Walker
Time of past OR future Camino
C. Frances: Jan 2023
Yes, a few. Some, like Sahagún, are big as it’s a converted church so they’re not warm by nature of its spacious interior. And one house I stayed in in Itero de la Vega charged €3 for heating (there’s been rising costs in electricity so I don’t fault them). We said no to save money because we were confident in our sleeping bags.
 

ieremv

Winter Walker
Time of past OR future Camino
C. Frances: Jan 2023
Actually, I change my recommendation. You don’t need a sleeping bag – more of a down blanket or quilt for when albergues don’t have warm blankets. You don’t need the bottom insulation of a sleeping bag. I understand a blanket/quilt is a more specialised piece of equipment though, and harder to buy or borrow.
 
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FireDragon

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
mid-April 2023 Via Tolosana to Pamplona, Sept CF
Actually, I change my recommendation. You don’t need a sleeping bag – more of a down blanket or quilt for when albergues don’t have warm blankets. You don’t need the bottom insulation of a sleeping bag. I understand it’s a more specialised piece of equipment though, and harder to buy or borrow.
I will have to see what is a « down blanket » because the term is unfamiliar to me. I had been thinking of a silk bag also called « a bag to place meat inside » made of silk.
 
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Nomadita

🌟🐚
Time of past OR future Camino
June-July 2021
October 2022
February 2023
I have a packing list of items on my blog for reference, but I would say essentially a sleeping bag / quilt (I use the latter) for the cold nights.

Commonsensical but different from a summer Camino would be: Some extra layers for morning/night walking (but be sure not to overdo it and weigh down your pack!) Use merino wool or synthetics. And a good rain jacket for potential rain and wind.

I must say that February will present very different weather conditions than January. So just look at the forecast.
Thanks for the tips Jeremy and glad you made it to Santiago! Quite something for someone from a tropical country! 😊 (I am also, from Brazil but guess got used to the weather here in the UK) Someone else gave me a good tip of taking a seat pad. I've hiked here in the UK in winter, in England and Wales, so can't be much worse!

I've booked my flight to Bilbao on the 13th and will make my way to Frómista, where I left off in October, to finish in León as it's where I started to Santiago in June 2021. I'm just between jobs now so had to take the advantage. I hope I meet other (brave) people along the way!
 

Texas Walker

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Norte (2017-18)
Portugues (2015)
Frances (2014)
Yes fully agreed! We’ve always been calling the day before to confirm.

A mistake I’ve made has been to get a data-only SIM. Not all albergues have WhatsApp. But my fellow pilgrims have been kind enough to do the calls from their phones. I’ll get a full service SIM on my next Camino.
I didn't know that data-only was even an option. We've been getting phone service SIM and foregoing data, assuming that we'd always be where there was wifi when we needed data. That assumption, though, doesn't apply to the Compostela line in Santiago. Nor to various restaurants that don't bother to make menus available any more. (At least in 2021, things may have changed.)

Buen camino
 

TomSawyer

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances x2 + in Cambodia+Thailand. Now VdlP
!Hola! all.
I walked from Burgos yesterday and nothing was open, except for a small bar along the way in the (I think) second village.
When I reached Honantas - where I was told an albergue is open - nothing was open.
Nada.
If you are planning on walking from Burgos, in the next few days - possibly more - you need to be aware that you will need to walk to Castrojeriz for any accommodation option.
I am staying in the municipal, which is run by Paco and his wife.
It is really good here.
Paco and his wife (sorry, I can't remember her name) are legends and treat the pilgrims like pilgrims.
One tip: there is a supermarket in town and a few bars.
If you buy stuff in the small shop in the center, the woman will overcharge you.
This is a recommended place to stay and for 7 EUR it is highly recommended.
 

ieremv

Winter Walker
Time of past OR future Camino
C. Frances: Jan 2023
Thanks for the tips Jeremy and glad you made it to Santiago! Quite something for someone from a tropical country! 😊 (I am also, from Brazil but guess got used to the weather here in the UK) Someone else gave me a good tip of taking a seat pad. I've hiked here in the UK in winter, in England and Wales, so can't be much worse!

I've booked my flight to Bilbao on the 13th and will make my way to Frómista, where I left off in October, to finish in León as it's where I started to Santiago in June 2021. I'm just between jobs now so had to take the advantage. I hope I meet other (brave) people along the way!
I hope so too! But if you do have time, going beyond León might also be quite special this season as compared to June. May you have a good time.

Yes I was walking with someone who had a seat pad. Pretty nifty, although I’ll say we’ll survive most days without it.
 

ieremv

Winter Walker
Time of past OR future Camino
C. Frances: Jan 2023
I didn't know that data-only was even an option. We've been getting phone service SIM and foregoing data, assuming that we'd always be where there was wifi when we needed data. That assumption, though, doesn't apply to the Compostela line in Santiago. Nor to various restaurants that don't bother to make menus available any more. (At least in 2021, things may have changed.)

Buen camino
Oh it was just a very affordable roaming plan from my hometown, not a local SIM. I found it useful in albergues without wifi, for uploading photos for the blog. And to check stuff online sometimes.

Menus are back I think! Only one place made us scan a QR code (although it didn’t make sense when the menu couldn’t load because there was only 3G reception in the restaurant).

When I’m hanging out with other pilgrims, talking again and sharing our lives without masks, I feel so lucky.
 
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JabbaPapa

"True Pilgrim"
Time of past OR future Camino
100 characters or fewer : see signature details
!Hola! all.
I walked from Burgos yesterday and nothing was open, except for a small bar along the way in the (I think) second village.
When I reached Honantas - where I was told an albergue is open - nothing was open.
Nada.
oooh, both Hornillos and Hontanas closed ?

Nasty.

In Hontanas this December, I stayed at the Albergue, but I seem to recall there was some hostelry with a private number you could call. Was even that closed ?
 

Bradypus

Migratory hermit
Time of past OR future Camino
Too many and too often!
oooh, both Hornillos and Hontanas closed ?

Nasty.
There was nothing open in Hornillos or Hontanas a couple of weeks ago when I passed through. No albergues, hostals, bars or tiendas. I had spoken by phone with the Hontanas hospitalero earlier in the day and I thought he had said he would be open. But when I arrived there I waited in the street outside for an hour repeatedly phoning his number and getting no reply. Eventually I walked on to Castrojeriz. As I started that morning from Burgos it was a long day.
 

TomSawyer

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances x2 + in Cambodia+Thailand. Now VdlP
oooh, both Hornillos and Hontanas closed ?

Nasty.

In Hontanas this December, I stayed at the Albergue, but I seem to recall there was some hostelry with a private number you could call. Was even that closed ?
Yes, both Hornillos and Hontanas were closed.
I checked to see if the hotel in Hontanas was open. They had left a notice on the door to ring the buzzer. I rang the buzzer and a woman answered. I asked if they could open up because I wanted to pay to stay the night and she replied that they are not open.
They don't care about the pilgrims. It's just business.
The municipal at Castrojeriz WAS open, though, and I spent two nights there.
It was excellent.
7 EUR per night. 2 EUR for breakfast if you want it.
The hospitalero (Paco) is extremely helpful.
Just one tip: bring some food with you if you can because if you arrive late the only option will be to buy something at the small shop in the center that is run by a woman that overcharges pilgrims.
I was hungry and paid 4 EUR for a small empanada.
Please avoid shopping there if you can because it is a rip-off.
There is a supermarket in town that opens I think around 10am. It's affordable and pilgrim-friendly.
 
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TomSawyer

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances x2 + in Cambodia+Thailand. Now VdlP
There was nothing open in Hornillos or Hontanas a couple of weeks ago when I passed through. No albergues, hostals, bars or tiendas. I had spoken by phone with the Hontanas hospitalero earlier in the day and I thought he had said he would be open. But when I arrived there I waited in the street outside for an hour repeatedly phoning his number and getting no reply. Eventually I walked on to Castrojeriz. As I started that morning from Burgos it was a long day.
There really is no excuse for nothing to be open in Hontanas.
Burgos to Castrojeriz is a very long walk; especially when you are not mentally prepared for it.
The bar in Hornillos is open, and the people running it are friendly and don't overcharge.
Other than that, nothing is open.
Bring supplies with you and mentally prepare yourself for a 45km walk that day.
 

Nomadita

🌟🐚
Time of past OR future Camino
June-July 2021
October 2022
February 2023
There really is no excuse for nothing to be open in Hontanas.
Burgos to Castrojeriz is a very long walk; especially when you are not mentally prepared for it.
The bar in Hornillos is open, and the people running it are friendly and don't overcharge.
Other than that, nothing is open.
Bring supplies with you and mentally prepare yourself for a 45km walk that day.
Where are you now? I'm going to start Tuesday 14th from Frómista. I tried to book but one place said they won't be open due to illness and the other said they don't do bookings, the message was strange, she was like we only cater to pilgrims, you might be looking for something else!
 

jimsheppard

New Member
Hello everyone! I started walking the Camino Francés on 31 December and plan to reach Santiago de Compostela in early February. It’s been an amazing journey so far.

I’m blogging at jeremycamino.wordpress.com as I go, if you’re interested to learn about my “winter” Camino experience. A couple of days behind on posts but trying to catch up! Days and nights have been so full. :)
Jeremy, thoroughly enjoying your blog. Excellent photos and informative descriptions. Not far to go now. enjoy!
 

JabbaPapa

"True Pilgrim"
Time of past OR future Camino
100 characters or fewer : see signature details
There really is no excuse for nothing to be open in Hontanas.
Burgos to Castrojeriz is a very long walk; especially when you are not mentally prepared for it.
The bar in Hornillos is open, and the people running it are friendly and don't overcharge.
Other than that, nothing is open.
Bring supplies with you and mentally prepare yourself for a 45km walk that day.
I *think* there's one place in Tardajos that's not on the Aprinca list, though when I was there, La Casa de Beli was open, which is not the case at present.

Castrojériz to Burgos took me four days, so the current conditions on that stretch would be horrid for me, even though overall some places on the Francès that were closed in late November and/or in December are now open ...

Mansilla de las Mulas is another problem place.
 

J Willhaus

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
2016, 2022
Where are you now? I'm going to start Tuesday 14th from Frómista. I tried to book but one place said they won't be open due to illness and the other said they don't do bookings, the message was strange, she was like we only cater to pilgrims, you might be looking for something else!
Many places don't take bookings and some won't let you stay unless you are walking and carrying your own bag. Did you identify yourself as a pilgrim? There is a donativo for pilgrims in Fromista run by a family that is open only in the winter I believe.
 
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Bradypus

Migratory hermit
Time of past OR future Camino
Too many and too often!
I'm going to start Tuesday 14th from Frómista. I tried to book but one place said they won't be open due to illness and the other said they don't do bookings, the message was strange, she was like we only cater to pilgrims, you might be looking for something else!
Was the second place Betania? Lourdes is something of a Camino legend and a hospitalera of the oldest of schools. I can well believe that she does not accept reservations. Contrary to the usual practice Lourdes only hosts pilgrims in winter when most other places are closed. If you are following the list of open places on the Aprinca website then you will have Lourdes to thank for that. Here's what @Rebekah Scott had to say about her a few years back.

 

bazza7.3

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
.
Hi Ieremv,

I've really enjoyed your blog and your beautiful photos. May I ask is it a phone or camera you use as I am getting ready for my next camino and would love the same quailty.

Thank you.
 

ieremv

Winter Walker
Time of past OR future Camino
C. Frances: Jan 2023
Hi Ieremv,

I've really enjoyed your blog and your beautiful photos. May I ask is it a phone or camera you use as I am getting ready for my next camino and would love the same quailty.

Thank you.
It’s a phone! (And Spanish light.) iPhone 12 Pro Max to be exact. Wanted to keep things light so I didn’t bring a camera for this. The “Pro” versions have wide, normal, and telephoto lenses which gives me a good range to work with.
 

JabbaPapa

"True Pilgrim"
Time of past OR future Camino
100 characters or fewer : see signature details
Was the second place Betania? Lourdes is something of a Camino legend and a hospitalera of the oldest of schools. I can well believe that she does not accept reservations.
She was taking reservations when I was there in late November, though I got in without one. Lourdes is a lovely woman.
 

Nomadita

🌟🐚
Time of past OR future Camino
June-July 2021
October 2022
February 2023
Was the second place Betania? Lourdes is something of a Camino legend and a hospitalera of the oldest of schools. I can well believe that she does not accept reservations. Contrary to the usual practice Lourdes only hosts pilgrims in winter when most other places are closed. If you are following the list of open places on the Aprinca website then you will have Lourdes to thank for that. Here's what @Rebekah Scott had to say about her a few years back.

Yep! I thought it was weird because of course I'm a pilgrim, lol! Can you share the website with the list of open places? I'll have an interview on Thursday so really will need to have a place then!
 
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ieremv

Winter Walker
Time of past OR future Camino
C. Frances: Jan 2023
If you are viewing the site on a mobile phone then just slide the list up and down with your finger. Wasn't completely obvious to me at first!
I’ve been wondering who’s the amazing person behind Aprinca, thank you for enlightening! She does sound like a legend.

I think Rebekah’s account of winter pilgrims is so accurate to my experience, mostly everyone I met felt so special and caring.
 

ieremv

Winter Walker
Time of past OR future Camino
C. Frances: Jan 2023
Great blog again ieremv. Really enjoying retracing my steps.
Thank you so much again Jim for the words of affirmation. :)

I’m back in Singapore with a computer so I’ve made a minor improvement to the site: “Next” and “Previous” buttons on individual posts, which should make for easier reading.

I also upgraded the Wordpress plan because I was running out of space to host the photos (was hoping to save money) but now have a domain too, which should make it easier to access. jeremycamino.blog

Last couple of posts to go to Santiago, then Finisterre and Muxia. :)
 

truenorthpilgrim

Camino Mermaid 🧜🏻‍♀️
Time of past OR future Camino
CF 2016, 2019, 2023
Podiensis 2019
@ieremv want to commend you again for the simple yet eloquent documentation of your winter camino. Having walked the camino twice (and about to embark on another here in a few weeks) I really could feel your camino experience jump off the page. You did a great job in quelling winter camino fears about accommodation, weather, packing gear and lastly, camaraderie with fellow winter pilgrims. It's a great resource for winter pilgrims. Your photos were also stunning.

Welcome back to Singapore. Everything is the same...but also different I bet. ;)
 
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