This is an after-action report from our trip on the Camino Ingles in May. Our group of 8 left from Ferrol on May 6th and arrived in Santiago on May 10th. We used the Johnny Walker Guide, which was excellent. It was particularly helpful at the start and end of the Camino in Ferrol and Santiago, as there were fewer trail markers. Except in a few places I've noted here, the way is very well marked. In Santago in particular, there were no markers once we entered the city. Without the guide we would have just been winging it.
We got a very late start out of Ferrol, leaving at about 3 or 4 PM. Because we planned to reach Santiago in 5 days, we decided to take the FE-14 bridge. It was very easy to find the turn-off for the bridge. Right where the Camino goes left under a tunnel, we took the ramp on the right onto the path over the bridge. Once we crossed into Fene, it was easy to pick up the trail. We KSO after the bridge until we passed a Gadis supermarket. The Camino was the next right where the Camino passes Bar A Ponte and Cafeteria Lembranza. From there on we were on the usual route.
We arrived in Pontedeume at around 9:00PM. Unfortunately, that was too late for the Albergue, which closed at 6:30 PM. We were able to get rooms at the Pension Norte for very cheap. It was clean and comfortable and tasty Estrella Galicia was available downstairs. For dinner, we ate at the restaurant Compostela, which was pretty good.
We set out the next morning for Betanzos and arrived there in the mid-afternoon. The Albergue in Betanzos is a VERY clean and spacious building with great amenities, including washing machines. It closes at 10PM.
Leaving Betanzos the next day I found the guide a bit vague. If you cross the main square and take the road to the right of the large church you are headed in the right direction. In Presedo there is a beautiful newish looking coffee bar not noted in the guide. Just as you are about to leave town there is a courtyard and a sign for Meson-Museo Xento no Camino. It was amazing. We were also fortunate to hit the famous Bar Julia when it was open. Some Estrellas fortified us for the big climb (in the rain). It isn’t a bad climb and it’s very pretty. I wish they would not change the route. An important update for the guide, the sign that says “1km to albeurge” in Bruma is either gone or maybe we missed it. We kept thinking we had further to go until we actually reached the albeurge. In general, the third day was the most scenic.
The albeurge in Bruma was pretty nice, but it was full that night and a bit cramped. We got the last beds! A welcome addition in Bruma, there is a new restaurant just down the street near the chapel. Based on what we had read, we had packed food expecting no restaurants. The food was great and the service was very friendly.
Day four to Siguero was pretty uneventful. Honestly, it’s kind of boring. We were on straight country roads with no view for miles. Of note the “last stop” Bar Cruciero was not open on Mondays. That sucked, because we passed other places planning to go there. As we entered Siguero, we got briefly lost near the pool in the park. The signage was not great. It was better the next morning leaving town. We stayed at the private Albergue Turistico o Fogar da Chisca., which was amazing. It was spotless and the proprietor was a sweet lady who made us breakfast and the beds had clean sheets.
Finally, we walked into Santiago! As I said already, the marks through Santiago are non-existent. All in all, it was a great trip. I can’t wait to do another Camino as soon as possible.
We got a very late start out of Ferrol, leaving at about 3 or 4 PM. Because we planned to reach Santiago in 5 days, we decided to take the FE-14 bridge. It was very easy to find the turn-off for the bridge. Right where the Camino goes left under a tunnel, we took the ramp on the right onto the path over the bridge. Once we crossed into Fene, it was easy to pick up the trail. We KSO after the bridge until we passed a Gadis supermarket. The Camino was the next right where the Camino passes Bar A Ponte and Cafeteria Lembranza. From there on we were on the usual route.
We arrived in Pontedeume at around 9:00PM. Unfortunately, that was too late for the Albergue, which closed at 6:30 PM. We were able to get rooms at the Pension Norte for very cheap. It was clean and comfortable and tasty Estrella Galicia was available downstairs. For dinner, we ate at the restaurant Compostela, which was pretty good.
We set out the next morning for Betanzos and arrived there in the mid-afternoon. The Albergue in Betanzos is a VERY clean and spacious building with great amenities, including washing machines. It closes at 10PM.
Leaving Betanzos the next day I found the guide a bit vague. If you cross the main square and take the road to the right of the large church you are headed in the right direction. In Presedo there is a beautiful newish looking coffee bar not noted in the guide. Just as you are about to leave town there is a courtyard and a sign for Meson-Museo Xento no Camino. It was amazing. We were also fortunate to hit the famous Bar Julia when it was open. Some Estrellas fortified us for the big climb (in the rain). It isn’t a bad climb and it’s very pretty. I wish they would not change the route. An important update for the guide, the sign that says “1km to albeurge” in Bruma is either gone or maybe we missed it. We kept thinking we had further to go until we actually reached the albeurge. In general, the third day was the most scenic.
The albeurge in Bruma was pretty nice, but it was full that night and a bit cramped. We got the last beds! A welcome addition in Bruma, there is a new restaurant just down the street near the chapel. Based on what we had read, we had packed food expecting no restaurants. The food was great and the service was very friendly.
Day four to Siguero was pretty uneventful. Honestly, it’s kind of boring. We were on straight country roads with no view for miles. Of note the “last stop” Bar Cruciero was not open on Mondays. That sucked, because we passed other places planning to go there. As we entered Siguero, we got briefly lost near the pool in the park. The signage was not great. It was better the next morning leaving town. We stayed at the private Albergue Turistico o Fogar da Chisca., which was amazing. It was spotless and the proprietor was a sweet lady who made us breakfast and the beds had clean sheets.
Finally, we walked into Santiago! As I said already, the marks through Santiago are non-existent. All in all, it was a great trip. I can’t wait to do another Camino as soon as possible.
