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Camino invierno semana santa 2019

Time of past OR future Camino
Portugués Porto'17,Lisbon'18
Inglés A Coruña y Ferrol '18
Invierno'19
Hello,
This is my first time posting, I thought I would give my thoughts on our camino invierno since I have benefited so much from reading others thoughts.
My 17 year old son and I started the Camino invierno from Ponferrada on Sunday April 14,2019. He is on break from school for semana santa and I had a concert the 13th so we only had/have 9 days, I can't imagine doing this Camino in any less time probably better more time!!

Day one Ponferrada - Puente de domingo florez
My husband drove our son and I to Ponferrada from our home in A Coruña where we have lived for 25+ years, we are American by birth and Spanish by choice. This was an amazing day but too long, I would probably choose the other 9 day itinerary from the guide the next time or allow more days. The climb to Villavieja let me know exactly why I was on camino again, tired body but clear mind, I would not want to have missed this tramo but going all the way to puente de domingo florez it might have been easier to have skipped this. As médulas of course is a sight to see, but we couldn't stop long 8 more km to go and downhill for me is always tougher. We stayed at the Hostal La Torre ll. Our room was sufficient and the food was good as we couldn't walk anywhere else!! The bar opens at 6am for the early risers.

Day two puente de domingo florez - A Rua
We knew we would run into rain so we got an early start, we probably spent half the day in pouring rain but it was still beautiful. We stayed in the Pacio do Sil. A nice place but definitely not in town, for the tired I suggest you get anything you need before walking up since the next day is without services and at least 27km. For us we walked down and back up....the beds, as mentioned by others, were wonderful, I asked the owner the next morning and he said that he gets calls about the mattresses and that he spent his working life walking and needed a good bed so he has them for everyone. He said the manufacturer doesn't matter that you need 'gran confort 35 kilos' if anyone is interested. One other interesting thing, on the back of the door are the rules of the establishment one of which is 'no washing clothes'.....

Day three A Rua-Quiroga
This tramo as mentioned in the guide, is without any services. The first kms are indeed on a road however it was a lovely walk for my son and I. From Montefurado to Hermione is just beautiful but I would not want to do it in the rain, we were there the day after a very rainy day and at one point slipping down a slate trail. We stayed at the Hostal Dimar and it was nice. A'familia' grocery one minute down the street, and a new restaurant opened in March (2019) in the building of the hostal, it smelled great but we didn't eat there, after a long day with out stopping to eat much, we had bread and cheese from the familia and then slept, the long days are catching up, and the longest tomorrow.

Day four Monforte - Chantada
Today, my birthday, we knew we had 35 to go with a forcast of rain after 5pm and 20+ before a place to stop so we started off early. I must admit that this is the one place so far that the guide was confusing it has you 'continue on N120 for serveral km' however I don't believe we ever walk on the N -120 but on the LU-933, because at the intersection we almost got on to the 120 ( thinking we were continuing) instead of crossing to the derelict nightclub, mind you it was still dark so I can't be sure but for those good with maps it is worth a look. In addition to the forum guide we have been using the wise pilgrim app. Today even though it was long we throughly enjoyed it, the climbs were not too tough as the cloudy cool day helped. We arrived in Monforte just as the rain started and we took the way by the train station no mud needed for us!! We stayed at the Hostal Midievo. What a cute place and Lorena was just lovely. I did laundry at a laundromat about 6 min away back on the camino and we ate Telepizza, a perfect way to celebrate my 52 years.

Day five Monforte - Chantada
My favorite day so far, the view across the miño as you walk down a Roman road looking at the walk up the vines you will do.....just timeless. We stayed in the Hotel Mogay no discount during semana santa but it was very nice my son was in heaven. We ate at the Oagocho pizzería-cafetería ( can you see a theme? 17 year old....) I really liked the staff here and the food as well.

Day six Chantada - Rodeiro
I have to say this was a tough day for me with out reason. We walked in complete fog so no view for us at the top of Monte Faro, we couldn't even see the windmills!! We stayed at the Hostal Carpinterías which was nice. They are just finishing up their new Albergue, it will open on April 27,19, with space for 30 and a small kitchen, I took a peek and it looks great for those that want an Albergue.

Day seven Rodeiro - Lalin
Today we chose the road option and we're glad we did. It was nice to arrive before noon and yes it is on the road but there were still nice views to be seen and it was so nice to sit for coffee after just an hours walk!! I like that the Camino isn't a through hike.

I am now sitting in the kitchen of the Hostal Carracas doing laundry (2€ wash 2-4€dry) contemplating the end of another camino. The invierno will end soon after we start tomorrow on our way to Ponte Ulla and Monday to Santiago, then a short drive home to A Coruña. Tuesday will find my son back for his last few weeks of high school and then I will have 3 college kids and one more to get through high school (not easy in Spain). I can't promise to write about the last two days since real life will take over as soon as I step through the door at home. Thank you for reading and please excuse any typos, I'm using my phone and you know auto correct.......
And a huge thank you to everyone for putting yourselves out there and helping us 'readers' you have inspired me to try to help!!
Buen Camino!!!!
MaryEllen
 
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Thank you so much for this information. We are looking forward to this camino in the fall.
 
Hi, MaryEllen,

I'm glad you are enjoying CdI because I'm definitely one of the afficionados of it here on the forum (there are many though). I too walked Rodeiro-Lalin on the main road and it wasn't all that awful. I hope you're having some good food for dinner (OK, pizza might be good too, but...) because Lalin has some very good restaurants.

Wish you nice ending to this Camino!

PS (Very useful info about new albergue at Carpinteiras in Rodeiro!)
 
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Great updates. Thanks, you’ve given some good info for the 2019 forum guide.

Is it possible that the construction of the Albergue In Rodeiro is the beginning of a surge? The owners of the hostal seem like pretty good business people to me so I’m thinking we will see more.
 
I don't know if there is a surge, but the senora I spoke with this morning said 'la gente quiere un albergue'. Yesterday the owner said he would soon have a group of 20. The work they have done is impressive. Oh, and the price she said would be around 12€. However apart from a group of about ten jubilados we ran into on day one near médulas and never saw again we have not seen a single peregrino..... Each hostal we arive to has told us someone has left that morning......it really is a special camino!!
 
Tonight, the night before Easter we’re in O Barco. Pension Do Lar is an ok pension. However, we arrived at 6pm which they knew we would and couldn’t get into room until past 7 when they finally sent someone. We were exhausted and my husband in pain from a foot injury that had significantly slowed us down the last 2 days. So walked the last 3 hours in 81F temps. We were dying. Unseasonably hot for April. Then they let us into the room only to later find the only left us with 1 towel. The bath tub is almost impossible to get into. It’s slides to open about 18 inches and barely fit. I’m not overweight. My husband is 5’9 and overweight and almost broke a bone and the door getting. The most bizarre door I’ve ever seen.
I’ll post a separate thread with our experiences, just wanted to mention this.
Walking during Holy is a pain on this Camino. I’ll explain closures later.
 
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Tonight, the night before Easter we’re in O Barco. Paco do Sil is ok pension. However, we arrived at 6pm which they knew we would and couldn’t get into room until past 7 when they finally sent someone. We were exhausted and my husband in pain from a foot injury that had significantly slowed us down the last 2 days. So walked the last 3 hours in 81F temps. We were dying. Unseasonably hot for April. Then they let us into the room only to later find the only left us with 1 towel. The bath tub is almost impossible to get into. It’s slides to open about 18 inches and barely fit. I’m not overweight. My husband is 5’9 and overweight and almost broke a bone and the door getting. The most bizarre door I’ve ever seen.
I’ll post a separate thread with our experiences, just wanted to mention this.
Walking during Holy is a pain on this Camino. I’ll explain closures later.
Hi Irene,
I responded in your thread but I wanted to ask if the Paco do Sil is the same as the Pacio do Sil which is outside of A Rua your stop tomorrow?the owner was so attentive calling me twice...I'm surprised at the difference if it is the same place. Good luck!!
MaryEllen
 
Hi Irene,
I responded in your thread but I wanted to ask if the Paco do Sil is the same as the Pacio do Sil which is outside of A Rua your stop tomorrow?the owner was so attentive calling me twice...I'm surprised at the difference if it is the same place. Good luck!!
MaryEllen
No in O Barco we stayed at Pension Do Lar. Never met the owner. The place was eventually opened by the bartender. I called the owner at least 10 times and he never answered and eventually shut off his phone. Finally got I TT he room around 7:15pm. Everyone in the bar across the street blamed it on it being a holiday and that he wouldn’t be back until the his restaurant opened at 8:30 pm! Well he never showed. The we get to the room and find only 1 towel! I’m not impressed.
 
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Pacio do sil is a casa rural above A Rua not in O Barco no bar or anything in sight in pretty sure that is where you will be tonight, good luck.
 
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Pacio do sil is a casa rural above A Rua not in O Barco no bar or anything in sight in pretty sure that is where you will be tonight, good luck.
Pacio do Sil is the casa rural where we’re staying tonight. It’s a short walk across the bridge as you enter A Rua. A small town restaurants and markets, bars, Eroski supermarket and train station. It’s the best place we’ve stayed so far.
 
We loved it too, our room in O Pacio do Sil had a big bath tub, last one we have seen and we finish tomorrow... I sure wish I had one tonight!! I hope today's walk was ok for your husband's foot, enjoy tomorrow it really is beautiful.
MaryEllen
 
We loved it too, our room in O Pacio do Sil had a big bath tub, last one we have seen and we finish tomorrow... I sure wish I had one tonight!! I hope today's walk was ok for your husband's foot, enjoy tomorrow it really is beautiful.
MaryEllen
He was able to buy a new insole in Sobradelo so his foot is slightly better. Thank you for asking. This has never happened to him in 40 years of hard hiking. The orthodic was old and he should have replaced it before we left but just never seemed to find the time to go to the podiatrist. He just pitched it and bought one at the pharmacy. It will do for the rest of the Camino. He was an Army Ranger, he just pushes through the pain.
I’m working in the background to reduce the distances for him while still maintaining his honor. LOL. I know it’s funny.
Btw, are these olive or wine orchards?
 
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I'm glad to read he is better, to come so far for a trip......I think....the orchards from the first days are olives, the funny short trees, someone correct me if I'm wrong. The first wine orchards I remember seeing are in Belesar.
 
Hello,
We finished, 263km(on our distance certificates)
9 days. Here are my thoughts on our last two days.

Day 8 Lalin-Ponte Ulla
Another long day, the last one thank goodness!! We left early knowing it would be a hot one. We finally ran into our first pilgrims (3) just past the albergue in A Laxe, we saw each one one more time and that was it for the whole trip. A group of about 10 day one, and these 3, one of which was finishing up from Sevilla on the Plata, the other two I don't know their route. This tramo was easier than I thought it would be (because of the length) the hardest part the decent to Ponte Ulla, my knees are definitely feeling this Camino, even with my trusty pacer poles. It was a pretty walk but we knew we were off the invierno, multiple times my son and I would compare sights to the Inglés or Portugués, he commented 'every minute I feel closer to the capital '. We had coffee as recommended at Casa Leiras in Dornelas, it would be a nice place to stay to enjoy the Galician 'aldea' life. We stayed at O Cruceiro which closes on Sundays at 4pm, so dinner was from the gas station ( knees didn't want to go backwards to find places closed for the holiday) and the prices were not too bad, we bought a fresh baguette and chorizo with cheese. Having read here from one pilgrim, sorry I can't remember which thread, that they had a nice bath, I asked for a room with a tub and was told that all rooms have showers now....actually I only remember one real tub and a couple half tubs in our 8 nights.

Day 9 Ponte Ulla-Santiago
We left early again ready to finish up. The walk was more up and down than I expected, after the climb to Outeiro, and my knees were ready to be done. We arrived just at 11am I got a quick selfie with my son (he was ready to be home) and then off to the office for certificates. We were on the train to A Coruña at 12:07 That includes walking to the train station so no big wait at the office, the Easter rush must be ending.

Ending thoughts
The invierno truly is special and unique. I recommend taking more days than we did. With my concert schedule and my son's school schedule we had exactly 9 days so that is what it took and I'm glad we could get a complete Camino in but we are beat!! I'm lucky to be off the symphony schedule this week but my son will be back in class tomorrow. The forum guide was wonderful as were all the threads describing personal trips. THANK YOU one and all!!
So I guess that's it, now to plan our summer Camino with my youngest daughter going as well, where to go where to go........
Buen Camino
MaryEllen
 
Hello,
We finished, 263km(on our distance certificates)
9 days. Here are my thoughts on our last two days.

Day 8 Lalin-Ponte Ulla
Another long day, the last one thank goodness!! We left early knowing it would be a hot one. We finally ran into our first pilgrims (3) just past the albergue in A Laxe, we saw each one one more time and that was it for the whole trip. A group of about 10 day one, and these 3, one of which was finishing up from Sevilla on the Plata, the other two I don't know their route. This tramo was easier than I thought it would be (because of the length) the hardest part the decent to Ponte Ulla, my knees are definitely feeling this Camino, even with my trusty pacer poles. It was a pretty walk but we knew we were off the invierno, multiple times my son and I would compare sights to the Inglés or Portugués, he commented 'every minute I feel closer to the capital '. We had coffee as recommended at Casa Leiras in Dornelas, it would be a nice place to stay to enjoy the Galician 'aldea' life. We stayed at O Cruceiro which closes on Sundays at 4pm, so dinner was from the gas station ( knees didn't want to go backwards to find places closed for the holiday) and the prices were not too bad, we bought a fresh baguette and chorizo with cheese. Having read here from one pilgrim, sorry I can't remember which thread, that they had a nice bath, I asked for a room with a tub and was told that all rooms have showers now....actually I only remember one real tub and a couple half tubs in our 8 nights.

Day 9 Ponte Ulla-Santiago
We left early again ready to finish up. The walk was more up and down than I expected, after the climb to Outeiro, and my knees were ready to be done. We arrived just at 11am I got a quick selfie with my son (he was ready to be home) and then off to the office for certificates. We were on the train to A Coruña at 12:07 That includes walking to the train station so no big wait at the office, the Easter rush must be ending.

Ending thoughts
The invierno truly is special and unique. I recommend taking more days than we did. With my concert schedule and my son's school schedule we had exactly 9 days so that is what it took and I'm glad we could get a complete Camino in but we are beat!! I'm lucky to be off the symphony schedule this week but my son will be back in class tomorrow. The forum guide was wonderful as were all the threads describing personal trips. THANK YOU one and all!!
So I guess that's it, now to plan our summer Camino with my youngest daughter going as well, where to go where to go........
Buen Camino
MaryEllen

Thank you Mary Ellen,

I always enjoy a report from the Invierno. O Cruceiro is a good place to stay in Ponte Ulla.

But I thought there would be more pilgrims walking in Semana Santa. I walked in old, boring July (9 stages just like you) and I met people almost every day, lots of them converging in Monforte de Lemos and Rodeiro.

Seems like fate will put me back on the Invierno this summer... So I will be able to compare...

Anyway, thanks for sharing your journey

/BP
 
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Thank you Mary Ellen,

I always enjoy a report from the Invierno. O Cruceiro is a good place to stay in Ponte Ulla.

But I thought there would be more pilgrims walking in Semana Santa. I walked in old, boring July (9 stages just like you) and I met people almost every day, lots of them converging in Monforte de Lemos and Rodeiro.

Seems like fate will put me back on the Invierno this summer... So I will be able to compare...

Anyway, thanks for sharing your journey

/BP
I thought there would be more as well, various hostal owners did say that others had checked out the day we checked in and the 10 jubilados we saw day one were going to get to Santiago eventually. Maybe there were more finishing before us as we finished the last day of 'semana santa' I look forward to reading about your summer adventure!!
 
Hello,
We finished, 263km(on our distance certificates)
9 days. Here are my thoughts on our last two days.

Day 8 Lalin-Ponte Ulla
Another long day, the last one thank goodness!! We left early knowing it would be a hot one. We finally ran into our first pilgrims (3) just past the albergue in A Laxe, we saw each one one more time and that was it for the whole trip. A group of about 10 day one, and these 3, one of which was finishing up from Sevilla on the Plata, the other two I don't know their route. This tramo was easier than I thought it would be (because of the length) the hardest part the decent to Ponte Ulla, my knees are definitely feeling this Camino, even with my trusty pacer poles. It was a pretty walk but we knew we were off the invierno, multiple times my son and I would compare sights to the Inglés or Portugués, he commented 'every minute I feel closer to the capital '. We had coffee as recommended at Casa Leiras in Dornelas, it would be a nice place to stay to enjoy the Galician 'aldea' life. We stayed at O Cruceiro which closes on Sundays at 4pm, so dinner was from the gas station ( knees didn't want to go backwards to find places closed for the holiday) and the prices were not too bad, we bought a fresh baguette and chorizo with cheese. Having read here from one pilgrim, sorry I can't remember which thread, that they had a nice bath, I asked for a room with a tub and was told that all rooms have showers now....actually I only remember one real tub and a couple half tubs in our 8 nights.

Day 9 Ponte Ulla-Santiago
We left early again ready to finish up. The walk was more up and down than I expected, after the climb to Outeiro, and my knees were ready to be done. We arrived just at 11am I got a quick selfie with my son (he was ready to be home) and then off to the office for certificates. We were on the train to A Coruña at 12:07 That includes walking to the train station so no big wait at the office, the Easter rush must be ending.

Ending thoughts
The invierno truly is special and unique. I recommend taking more days than we did. With my concert schedule and my son's school schedule we had exactly 9 days so that is what it took and I'm glad we could get a complete Camino in but we are beat!! I'm lucky to be off the symphony schedule this week but my son will be back in class tomorrow. The forum guide was wonderful as were all the threads describing personal trips. THANK YOU one and all!!
So I guess that's it, now to plan our summer Camino with my youngest daughter going as well, where to go where to go........
Buen Camino
MaryEllen
Hi, Mary Ellen
I was the one who praised the bathtub, a wonderful treat on my last night of a 50 day VdlP two years ago. I may consider staying elsewhere, depending on prices, services etc. or bunking down in the downstairs albergue, when I pass through Ponte Ulla on the Invierno this fall. It would just be too much of a letdown. The room was ordinary, but the bathroom was palatial.
 
Hi, Mary Ellen
I was the one who praised the bathtub, a wonderful treat on my last night of a 50 day VdlP two years ago. I may consider staying elsewhere, depending on prices, services etc. or bunking down in the downstairs albergue, when I pass through Ponte Ulla on the Invierno this fall. It would just be too much of a letdown. The room was ordinary, but the bathroom was palatial.
Hi!!
I must say that the new shower was a very nice rain shower plus removable 'telephone' as my friend calls it. But a bath is a bath right??!! Please let us know how your invierno goes in the fall.
MaryEllen
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I dpn't know if all the rooms have a tub...best ask. The couple who run it are elderly and very friendly. Both speak excellent French. A lot. ;)
 
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