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LIVE from the Camino Camino Lebaniego

LesBrass

Likes Walking
Time of past OR future Camino
yes...
Hello Pilgrims - I have been quiet for a few months... lock-down brought me an opportunity to work from home and it has filled my days (and actually continues to do so) and I was very grateful for a project and a distraction during those difficult days.

Tomorrow Spain opens it's border and we are driving from home in SW France to walk the Camino Lebaniego. We have postponed this camino twice this year and had almost gave up hope but... we found a good solution to avoid the stage to stage alburgue COVID-Risk issues... and this has given us confidence to go!

We have rented an apartment near Potes for 2 weeks and we'll drive from home... we can take our own bedding and we can cook for ourselves so we will feel quiet independent. Each day we will walk the camino stage 'there and back again'... so for every kilometre of the route we'll actually walk two! But... we're happy to do this as it's beautiful countryside and it means that we can still walk this camino. We've planned our stages. We'll park the car at the start... walk for around 12-14 km... turn round and walk back... the next day we'll go back to where we stopped... walk 12-14km and then walk back... and so on! Are we crazy? Maybe... but we are so happy to be going!

I wonder though if someone can tell me... do we need a special credential? If so where do we find them? We'll be starting on the morning of the 2nd July from San Vincente de la Barquera... we're going to pick up the arrows on the Norte and walk into town and onwards from there. I do have the Santiago Cathedral credientials and we can use these but it's always nice to have 'specific' credentials.

Thank you in advance and I'll try to remember to post a few photos every day!
 
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You will get the credentials in the cathedral de Santander but perhaps also in the touristoffice or the albergue in San Vicente.
Lucky you! I had hoped to meet you some time on the route in June, since we planned to be there at the same time.
Looking forward to seeing your pictures! Bonne route!
 
You will get the credentials in the cathedral de Santander but perhaps also in the touristoffice or the albergue in San Vicente.
Lucky you! I had hoped to meet you some time on the route in June, since we planned to be there at the same time.
Looking forward to seeing your pictures! Bonne route!

Yes I remember! So sad that you couldn't walk - thanks for the information... We'll try the albergue at San Vincente... and the tourist office if not 🚶‍♀️ :cool:
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
On my second camino, I met a couple who were walking the Leon to Mazarife stage of the Camino Frances, having left their car somewhere for the day, then going back to pick it up at the end of each day and driving to their booked accommodation. I do not think that they walked back every day, so they may have had different plans for each day. I have a vague memory that the husband was responsible for returning for the car. In any case, this worked for them, as an alternative to shipping their gear ahead. They had everything they needed in the car at the end of each day, and their vehicle to drive home in when their camino was over. Some version of this has become more practical in this time of pandemic. Buen camino to you both.
 
Hello Colleen! Good for you! I have to admit that I am somewhat jealous of your plans. I would love to walk a Camino, any Camino, but am reluctant to begin now for fear of the weather getting too hot. I just looked at the forecast for the area where you will be walking and it looks perfect for the coming days. Your itinerary seems well planned. Wishing the two of you a wonderful walk. I will be interested to read your reports and to see some of your lovely photos taken along the way. Enjoy!
 
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I have to admit that I am somewhat jealous of your plans.

I’ve been feeling this way a lot lately, and just to say that though I don’t think English has a good way of expressing what I’m feeling, in Spanish the term is “envidia sana.” Jealous yes, but truly happy for you! Kind of the opposite of schadenfreude.

Looking forward to hearing how it goes for you, @LesBrass. Buen camino, Laurie
 
Two years ago we met four mature brothers who gathered for a month each year. Left their wives home. Three lived in different parts of the USA and one lived in Southern France. That year they decided to walk the camino for two weeks and started in Astorga. The brother living in Provence had a large vehicle which they would leave in a town such as in Astorga for three nights and then walk to their destinations and then return to Astorga via taxi service. Then they parked in Ponferrada, took a cab up to Acebo and walked down. The next day they walked to Villafranca del Bierzo and took a cab back. Splitting the taxi cab fares between four people was quite inexpensive. Not sure how they managed after because we we lost sight of them.
 
Hello Colleen! Good for you! I have to admit that I am somewhat jealous of your plans. I would love to walk a Camino, any Camino, but am reluctant to begin now for fear of the weather getting too hot. I just looked at the forecast for the area where you will be walking and it looks perfect for the coming days. Your itinerary seems well planned. Wishing the two of you a wonderful walk. I will be interested to read your reports and to see some of your lovely photos taken along the way. Enjoy!

Hi there pilgrim! it's surprisingly cool at the moment! We've had an odd year weather wise... very warm in February and March... wet in April and then swinging from hot and dry to wet and cold through May and June. I think it's a bit like that here too? I kind of like it at home as the garden is happy but it's forecast rain all day tomorrow so I would prefer that to stop 😂

I'll make sure I take lots of photos ❤
 
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I’ve been feeling this way a lot lately, and just to say that though I don’t think English has a good way of expressing what I’m feeling, in Spanish the term is “envidia sana.” Jealous yes, but truly happy for you! Kind of the opposite of schadenfreude.

Looking forward to hearing how it goes for you, @LesBrass. Buen camino, Laurie

Thank you ❤ I am so glad we decided to come. we've both been so busy with work over the last few months and had been looking forward to this break for months and months... we had all but given up. When Spain announced the borders were opening we decided that an apartment would be a good compromise. We're not walking stage to stage but we will still be able to walk and enjoy this beautiful trail.

I was so excited to see yellow arrows right outside the house where we are staying... sadly it's not the route we plan to take but we will have to explore this section too now!

The weather is looking quite unseasonal but I have a new RAB coat that I wanted to test; we'll put up with some rain and count our blessings! I know so many people who's lives has been turned inside out this year with the virus... I really do feel that this camino is a special gift for us.
 
Day 1 - Bordeaux to nr Potes

Not a lot to report. We drove for 7 hours in the rain :oops: Once we're through the heavy traffic around Bordeaux the drive is easier. And even better once we see the Pyrenees on the horizon. After walking part of the Norte in 2018 we always get a little thrill now when we see the places that we walked. The Alpenista hill en route to San Sebastian... the little abandoned school en route to Deba where we had a picnic lunch... memories of hills and coastlines and funny stories passes the time and the kilometres fall away.

We stopped for a picnic lunch in the car park of a petrol station, looking across at a Lidl supermarket and a Burger King... counting the number of folks wearing masks... and those not... And still the rain came down :cool:

Turning off from the coast, the drive towards Potes is fabulous. We've been here before but we can't quite remember why we took this particular road... but it's spectacular. Before we know it we arrived. Our apartment is lovely and the lady speaks excellent french which has helped us no end as our Spanish is awful. Books, and rugs and cushions have all been removed but it's still pretty. We had our temperature taken when we arrived and of course we are all wearing a mask but everything was easy and we're very happy in our new home.

I was surprised to see Camino markers along the road to this village. We're not on the traditional route although the lady of the house says this is an alternative? We're in a village called Lomeña... a few kms from Potes... any Camino Lebaniego experts out there who can tell us about this alternative? All the maps and literature have been removed so she couldn't show us.

Tomorrow we're planning to head back to the coast and the start of this walk. The weather forecast is awful but no matter! We'll be starting tomorrow and we're very happy pilgrims indeed!

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Two years ago we met four mature brothers who gathered for a month each year. Left their wives home. Three lived in different parts of the USA and one lived in Southern France. That year they decided to walk the camino for two weeks and started in Astorga. The brother living in Provence had a large vehicle which they would leave in a town such as in Astorga for three nights and then walk to their destinations and then return to Astorga via taxi service. Then they parked in Ponferrada, took a cab up to Acebo and walked down. The next day they walked to Villafranca del Bierzo and took a cab back. Splitting the taxi cab fares between four people was quite inexpensive. Not sure how they managed after because we we lost sight of them.

we had thought about a taxi... and only decided against it because of the virus... but I can see how this would work and I'd consider it in the future.
 
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I was surprised to see Camino markers along the road to this village. We're not on the traditional route although the lady of the house says this is an alternative? We're in a village called Lomeña... a few kms from Potes... any Camino Lebaniego experts out there who can tell us about this alternative? All the maps and literature have been removed so she couldn't show us.
interesting. Looks like you are about 5km south of Potes. Too far south to be on the Vadiniense, too far west to be on the Besaya and too far north to be the Olvidado.
Somewhere, deep in a secret subterranean location - Laurie's equivalent of the Batcave - the red lights of the camino detection command centre will be flashing...
 
I’ve been feeling this way a lot lately, and just to say that though I don’t think English has a good way of expressing what I’m feeling, in Spanish the term is “envidia sana.” Jealous yes, but truly happy for you! Kind of the opposite of schadenfreude.

Looking forward to hearing how it goes for you, @LesBrass. Buen camino, Laurie
My sentiments exactly Laurie - I cannot wait to get back but sadly for us in South Africa it will only be next year - I am so hoping for April/May - stay well and safe XXXX
 
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interesting. Looks like you are about 5km south of Potes. Too far south to be on the Vadiniense, too far west to be on the Besaya and too far north to be the Olvidado.
Somewhere, deep in a secret subterranean location - Laurie's equivalent of the Batcave - the red lights of the camino detection command centre will be flashing...

The actual name of our village is Barrio Basieda ... it would be great to learn more :cool:
 
Day 2: San Vicente de la Barqueta to somewhere after Serdio... and back again

The promised rain never came and we had a fabulous walk... so thrilled to see those yellow arrows! Our plan to drive to and from stages isn't going to be as straightforward but we'll find a way... and we decided to forgo credential... one less thing to share and so one less thing to risk.

I keep a blog if you fancy reading more details and seeing more photos... I took so many photos today! https://thenwewalked.blog/2020/07/02/the-bus-stop/

It felt good to be walking and we had lots of buen caminos... and we counted 15 other pilgrims walking and lots of cyclists... we're certainly not alone.

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@LesBrass
Wow -your photos are so lovely.
- I just checked out your blog. Thanks for taking the time and trouble to update.
It gives us all an opportunity to see ‘in real-time’ just how it is on the ground. Especially those of us who are unable to get there in the foreseeable future.
I’m so glad to read that you are seeing other pilgrims where you are. It certainly adds to a camino / occasional sharing of news and experience and hearing ‘buen caminos ‘. Perfect.
Buen camino
Annie
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Day 2: San Vicente de la Barqueta to somewhere after Serdio... and back again

The promised rain never came and we had a fabulous walk... so thrilled to see those yellow arrows! Our plan to drive to and from stages isn't going to be as straightforward but we'll find a way... and we decided to forgo credential... one less thing to share and so one less thing to risk.

I keep a blog if you fancy reading more details and seeing more photos... I took so many photos today! https://thenwewalked.blog/2020/07/02/the-bus-stop/

It felt good to be walking and we had lots of buen caminos... and we counted 15 other pilgrims walking and lots of cyclists... we're certainly not alone.

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I too am feeling very envious of your walk but so happy for you.
Loved reading your blog and seeing the photos and I share your thoughts about bus stops. We took shelter from the rain on the Norte last year in many bus stops , having a picnic of oranges and muesli bars and often watching the cows walk past. Happy memories.
Buen Camino
 
I too am feeling very envious of your walk but so happy for you.
Loved reading your blog and seeing the photos and I share your thoughts about bus stops. We took shelter from the rain on the Norte last year in many bus stops , having a picnic of oranges and muesli bars and often watching the cows walk past. Happy memories.
Buen Camino

Gerry feels quite vindicated now as lots of pilgrims concur with his choice of bus stops 🤭 :)
 
Day 3 : Cades to Lafuente and back again

The driving to and from our walk is tricky... made harder by the mountains! But we're still coping and we managed a wonderful walk today. One more long drive tomorrow but after that we get a few days that are not too far from our apartment... we saw five pilgrims today which was a surprise considering this is a quiet camino. Lots of road walking but it's undeniably beautiful!

We don't normally walk at this time of year and a feature today has been the incredible display of wild flowers everywhere... so many meadows! quite beautiful.

Here's my blog... https://thenwewalked.blog/2020/07/03/magpies-and-meadows/

A few photos here and lots more in the blog post ❤

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St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Day 4 : Lafuente to Cicera and the Mirador de Santa Catrina... and back again

Why is it whenever I walk I find cows in my way... nonetheless another stunning day... The sun was shining brightly today and it felt like all the farmers decided today was the day to make hay! Glorious walking!

Here's my blog for more photos and stories : https://thenwewalked.blog/2020/07/04/swallows-and-amazon/

(the wifi is not so good here... will try to load the photos later :oops: :cool: )
 
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Hello Pilgrims - I have been quiet for a few months... lock-down brought me an opportunity to work from home and it has filled my days (and actually continues to do so) and I was very grateful for a project and a distraction during those difficult days.

Tomorrow Spain opens it's border and we are driving from home in SW France to walk the Camino Lebaniego. We have postponed this camino twice this year and had almost gave up hope but... we found a good solution to avoid the stage to stage alburgue COVID-Risk issues... and this has given us confidence to go!

We have rented an apartment near Potes for 2 weeks and we'll drive from home... we can take our own bedding and we can cook for ourselves so we will feel quiet independent. Each day we will walk the camino stage 'there and back again'... so for every kilometre of the route we'll actually walk two! But... we're happy to do this as it's beautiful countryside and it means that we can still walk this camino. We've planned our stages. We'll park the car at the start... walk for around 12-14 km... turn round and walk back... the next day we'll go back to where we stopped... walk 12-14km and then walk back... and so on! Are we crazy? Maybe... but we are so happy to be going!

I wonder though if someone can tell me... do we need a special credential? If so where do we find them? We'll be starting on the morning of the 2nd July from San Vincente de la Barquera... we're going to pick up the arrows on the Norte and walk into town and onwards from there. I do have the Santiago Cathedral credientials and we can use these but it's always nice to have 'specific' credentials.

Thank you in advance and I'll try to remember to post a few photos every day!
Good luck and godspeed.
I am planning to walk the Camino Vadiniense late August, following with Salvatore, Primitivo, and Finisterra-Muxia. I will be looking out for your posts about the journey and I hope that it will go all well for you.
Buen Camino.
 
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Good luck and godspeed.
I am planning to walk the Camino Vadiniense late August, following with Salvatore, Primitivo, and Finisterra-Muxia. I will be looking out for your posts about the journey and I hope that it will go all well for you.
Buen Camino.
Wow what an amazing combination... I said to my husband yesterday that we could start in Irun, walk this again, and then do as you plan... you’re going to have an amazing walk :cool:
 
@LesBrass
Very encouraging to see you and Gerry ‘out there in the Picos’. Wow - the views are magnificent- enjoying your blog .. I see that you’re keeping very safe whilst enjoying walking. I hope others are as careful as you are.
Buen camino
Glad you like my meandering thoughts :D we are endeavouring to be super safe... most people are... the group of bikers yesterday were the first we have seen who haven’t... but we just walked on. The one good thing about walkinghere is that we’re alone (with the cows and the sheep:eek:) x
 
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Day 5 on the Camino Lebaniego - lots of sun and mountain trails today 😎

We asked ourselves today how well we would have coped walking stage to stage on this route. Today was very hot and the climb out of Lebana seemed very steep. My husband reminded me we did ok on the Primitivo so maybe it's the walking to and fro and the later starts that makes this more tiring? I think it is easier waking and walking early... but the mountains and the views are majestic and I am glad we came!

https://thenwewalked.blog/2020/07/05/where-vultures-dare/

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I love your blog, but am very glad I'm not there in July. For me, it really is "too darn hot." I look forward to a walk in my own mountains next month, when it is very unlikely to be any warmer than the 17 degrees that you are hoping for tomorrow. Buen camino.
 
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I love your blog, but am very glad I'm not there in July. For me, it really is "too darn hot." I look forward to a walk in my own mountains next month, when it is very unlikely to be any warmer than the 17 degrees that you are hoping for tomorrow. Buen camino.

we've just been saying that July is too hot for us. 17c sounds perfect! Enjoy your walk!
 
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- just finished reading your blog today and I look forward to being ‘uploaded into the picos’ as I read each day. Relying on your photos to appreciate the majestic views but your words have a way of making my senses understand the smells, heat and beauty you’re experiencing as well as lack of sleep. :(
- this experience is definitely ‘your camino’ (borne of necessity in Covid times); and one you’ll never forget.. It might even make ‘normal’ in the future look very tame .

Still, I’m sure you’re missing that camaraderie from the usual ever forward movement.

Do appreciate the effort to take us on your journey with your blog. How long will you be walking ?

Buen camino
Annie
 
- this experience is definitely ‘your camino’ (borne of necessity in Covid times); and one you’ll never forget.. It might even make ‘normal’ in the future look very tame .

Still, I’m sure you’re missing that camaraderie from the usual ever forward movement.

Do appreciate the effort to take us on your journey with your blog. How long will you be walking ?

Buen camino
Annie

totally we miss walking with others... it is the one big drawback of choosing to walk as we have but for these days it was essential.

We have a few more days on the Camino Vadiniense but we're picking our stages as there is a lot of road walking and not so easy to drive over the moutains... but more to follow this week :)
 
Day 6 : the end of the Camino Lebaniego

We had been talking about 'was it right to come' earlier today (and before 'the thread' was posted)... we discussed it because we knew that today we would reach the end of the Lebaniego. It has been a different camino for sure but without doubt is is beautiful. And the end at the Monestary was also quietly fitting.

We have a few more days so we're sticking to our plan as much as we can and continuing onwards to Riano... so there are still a few more days to come!

thank you for the kind words and all the messages... these are indeed difficult days... I just pray for a swift end of this dreadful virus and happier tomorrows.

p.s. I totally love the photo of the monk with his mask... certainly a photo of our time.

Here's today's blog... we only walked 8km today but they were still wonderful. https://thenwewalked.blog/2020/07/06/a-change-of-colour/

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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Loved reading your blog and seeing those gorgeous pictures. I thought Riaño was one of the saddest, most soul-less places I’ve ever walked through. That main square with the apartment buildings surrounding it was just so sad. I had known bits and pieces of the history of the reservoir, but not all the details you gave — thanks for that bit of education!

And btw, if by “tackling the mountain” you mean the Senda da Remoña today, it is glorious! Buen camino, Laurie

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@peregrina2000 yes yes yes... that's where we were! Oh my what a walk! And yes Riano was so sad. I've read so many reports of how beautiful it is... and the surroundings are but the town... as you say, it had no heart... and after reading about it I felt so sad for the folks that lived in the old villages.

@VNwalking ... indeed we were out there.

Today's walk is one of those that we'll always remember... days that we live for. Our planet is so amazingly beautiful. Today's walk was also so so bittersweet for me as I was living this amazing spectacle after learning last night a friend had died.

If you don't read my blog... this is she... my beautiful welsh songbird... gone far too soon. Listen to her sing so that her voice fills all our little corners of our world


There are so many photos today... and tomorrow we tackle the other side of Fuente De.

https://thenwewalked.blog/2020/07/08/were-going-in-a-bear-hunt/

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The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
@peregrina2000 yes yes yes... that's where we were! Oh my what a walk! And yes Riano was so sad. I've read so many reports of how beautiful it is... and the surroundings are but the town... as you say, it had no heart... and after reading about it I felt so sad for the folks that lived in the old villages.

@VNwalking ... indeed we were out there.

Today's walk is one of those that we'll always remember... days that we live for. Our planet is so amazingly beautiful. Today's walk was also so so bittersweet for me as I was living this amazing spectacle after learning last night a friend had died.

If you don't read my blog... this is she... my beautiful welsh songbird... gone far too soon. Listen to her sing so that her voice fills all our little corners of our world


There are so many photos today... and tomorrow we tackle the other side of Fuente De.

https://thenwewalked.blog/2020/07/08/were-going-in-a-bear-hunt/

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Bittersweet. Sorry, for your loss. Thank you for sharing her singing.
 
Oh, Colleen, what a day it has been for you. I've been eagerly reading your blog entries each day and enjoying your wonderful photos along the way. Such beauty and such saddness at the same time today. Your friend's voice was so beautiful. So sad to have lost a dear friend. Hopefully the walking will help you to deal with this loss. Take care.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I´ve really enjoyed reading your blog. All those beautiful pictures and nice discriptions from your walk. I have planned walking in this area for some years and cancelled my plan twice due to family sickness and corona. Your blog makes me feel more certain to begin a third planning when corona admits. Hope to succeed before I´m too old to manage.
 
I´ve really enjoyed reading your blog. All those beautiful pictures and nice discriptions from your walk. I have planned walking in this area for some years and cancelled my plan twice due to family sickness and corona. Your blog makes me feel more certain to begin a third planning when corona admits. Hope to succeed before I´m too old to manage.

we have no regrets with our choice... this is such a beautiful area. It was easier of course because we could drive here and we’ve stayed pretty self sufficient. We want to visit Potes and a few other places but for us they are too busy ... social distancing is def. a priority for us but for our walking this has been easy.

we would come back... our only problem is time and a long wish list of other places to visit!

I hope you find a way to make your visit
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I did the Vadiniense north to south from Potes in 2011 and found it a most memorable if solitary experience (and grateful to Rebekah and Paddy who came up to Cistierna to have lunch with me). Social distancing with other pilgrims was no problem as I was the only one I saw between Potes and Mansilla las Mulas-- there are stretches which I do not recommend to solitary pilgrims as a twisted ankle might mean a day or two before anyone comes along. Of all of the Caminos I have walked, this might well be the most spectacular and otherworldy. Between the monastery of San Toribio and the church of San Miguel de Escalada, there's some very powerful history reaching back a thousand years and more.
 
I just read your blog - Marvellous, I wish I had the patience to do something similar. Perhaps in time, but I loved reading yours (and seeing the marvellous pics)
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
I did the Vadiniense north to south from Potes in 2011 and found it a most memorable if solitary experience (and grateful to Rebekah and Paddy who came up to Cistierna to have lunch with me). Social distancing with other pilgrims was no problem as I was the only one I saw between Potes and Mansilla las Mulas-- there are stretches which I do not recommend to solitary pilgrims as a twisted ankle might mean a day or two before anyone comes along. Of all of the Caminos I have walked, this might well be the most spectacular and otherworldy. Between the monastery of San Toribio and the church of San Miguel de Escalada, there's some very powerful history reaching back a thousand years and more.

Sadly we couldn't walk every step as we've been walking 'there and back' each day to our car but I agree that it's spectacular... would loved to have walked it stage to stage... it can go back on the wish list ❤
 
I just read your blog - Marvellous, I wish I had the patience to do something similar. Perhaps in time, but I loved reading yours (and seeing the marvellous pics)

Thank you... glad you like the blog. I started blogging on my first camino as a way of keeping everyone at home informed of my progress without having to talk to them all... so I could disconnect except write my blog... I continued with my second camino and now it has now become part of my walking. I love the process of writing at the end of the day and putting my thoughts together. I've not blogged on three camino and I really regret that.
 

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