Camino Portugues - Having Second Thoughts

[GuyA]

Planning on getting back out there and walking in March 2018! Can't believe it's been so long after the various Caminos in 2013/2014.

For some time have been thinking about the Camino Portugues from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela. Given the relative minor elevation gains and a time constraint of just over 3 weeks seems like the right Camino!

In 2013/2014 I walked various Caminos without undue concern for various problems that inevitably arise while walking long distances or Forum comments. All were different...all were fantastic! For some reason I can't quite do the same this time as I read...really tough slogging out of Lisbon, bad stretches along highways, cobblestones are tough to walk on, accommodation challenges past Porto etc. etc. Perhaps being a few years older is the real problem!

Questions such as should I switch to another Camino i.e. a shortened Camino Norte or other routes keep popping up. Simply walking all day, enjoying the freedom of doing so...meeting interesting people has always been good enough in the past!

Welcome any thoughts...

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Perhaps being a few years older is the real problem!

Go more slowly. Lower your expectations, walk the Camino Portugues, and have fun! Don't make it a physical contest...

 

[Anamya]

I walked Porto-Santiago last April and had no issues with accomodation at all, GuyA! If you are open to sleep in albergues, inns or small hotels, there is plenty of options.

There were indeed many cobblestones, and I had the impression it walked on roads more often than the Frances. But nothing absurd.
My husband felt really tired with the stones/asphalt, I did not feel any difference walking on them. So it probably varies from person to person. We are in our late-30s.

Although I've heard beautiful things about other Caminos (and I still intend to walk the Norte and Primitivo), I would not hesitate in recommending the Portuguese Camino. The places are beautiful, the walk is nice and the food is unbelievable!

Whatever you choose to walk, it will be a good choice. It's the Camino. Ultreia!

 

[GuyA]

Go more slowly. Lower your expectations, walk the Camino Portugues, and have fun! Don't make it a physical contest...

Very well spoken and appreciated...

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

GuyA - I think it has all been said, however, I'll put in my two-pennyworth [good old English phrase!!}
I loved the Camino Portuguese - admittedly I walked it in two stages - Lisbon to Porto and Porto to SdC. You can check out both of these on my web site: http://snicholl5.wixsite.com/home-site/santiago as Pilgrimages 1 and 3.
In fact I loved it so much, I'm contemplating the Portuguese Coastal for maybe next April.
Relax. Take your time .... if you get weary, take a bus! Age is nothing to do with it [next April I'll be 79 ]. Just as long as one is physically able.
On both of these caminos, I felt I was going back in time almost 2,000 years, as I walked along the old Roman tracks....



.... and could even see the grooves in the ancient stones, carved by countless cart wheels over the centuries.

So just take it easy, enjoy the planning, and enjoy the walking.
Blessings from the UK, y buen camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Guy, I know there has been a lot of debate on the forum over the Camino Portugues from Lisbon. I walked it way back in 2008 and based on what I read, the changes have been enormous. This camino has a reputation for a lot of asphalt, but having just walked the Norte, my impression is that there is just as much asphalt on that camino. (It is true you can take coastal detours that avoid the asphalt, but most do not venture off the camino). There is still asphalt, but there have been many changes to get people off the shoulders.

There are a lot of forum members who have walked from Lisbon and reported back with very positive reports. I would take a look at @Magwood's blog for a characteristically detailed and beautifully photographed account. And then there is this somewhat old thread that will give some opinions. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/why-start-in-lisbon.29651/.

And one last note -- I think that the opening of the Via Lusitana's albergue in Alpriate https://www.facebook.com/AlbergueAlpriate/ has really helped to give this route more of a "camino feel." It is 20 km from the Lisbon cathedral, a good first day, and from the reports it seems to be a terrific gathering place for those who will see each other over the next few weeks.

I am not trying to convince you to walk from Lisbon, it may not be right for you, and I know there are recent pilgrims who have not liked it, but many do. Just trying to make your decision more difficult, sorry! Bom caminho, Laurie

 

[PEI_Heather]

And @peregrina2000/Laurie, I believe, was involved with several of the private hostels on part of the Lisbon to Porto portion to set up a pick up system where a pilgrim can call, the hostel owner picks the pigrim up returns to the hostel for the night then drops the pilgrim back to the same pick up spot the next day.
You know, if you have trained to walk 25-30 km/day, you really shouldn't have any problems. The landscape for the first number of days is basically flat. There is a bit of roadside walking but be aware of the traffic and you'll be fine. The cobblestones look lovely and oh so romantic, but you will curse them for the pain in your feet. Hot water and salt soaks at the end of the day will help.
But the Camino Portuguese from Lisbon to Porto is really really really special and beautiful. The Portuguese are lovely people and aren't yet jaded by 'all' those pilgrims, I think. The accommodations are tremendous and the food delicious.
I highly urge you to experience this route and not let what you have read sway your decision! Go!!!

 

[shefollowsshells]

Planning on getting back out there and walking in March 2018! Can't believe it's been so long after the various Caminos in 2013/2014.

For some time have been thinking about the Camino Portugues from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela. Given the relative minor elevation gains and a time constraint of just over 3 weeks seems like the right Camino!

In 2013/2014 I walked various Caminos without undue concern for various problems that inevitably arise while walking long distances or Forum comments. All were different...all were fantastic! For some reason I can't quite do the same this time as I read...really tough slogging out of Lisbon, bad stretches along highways, cobblestones are tough to walk on, accommodation challenges past Porto etc. etc. Perhaps being a few years older is the real problem!

Questions such as should I switch to another Camino i.e. a shortened Camino Norte or other routes keep popping up. Simply walking all day, enjoying the freedom of doing so...meeting interesting people has always been good enough in the past!

Welcome any thoughts...

I'll be following this thread closely. I'm taking my two daughters for another Camino, already have flights booked to Lisbon ( after two weeks in Morrocco). I too am second guessing the decision.
We might head around the coast to the primitivo when we go, time is on our side.

 

[Addicted]

Did the portugese in September 2015 from Porto , no problem with finding a bed , have to say there was a lot of cobble and hope to never see another cobble stone lol
Trail was not all that challenging but was a fair bit of road walking. Regardless it was an excellent walk

 

[marjm007]

I walked Porto-Santiago last April and had no issues with accomodation at all, GuyA! If you are open to sleep in albergues, inns or small hotels, there is plenty of options.

There were indeed many cobblestones, and I had the impression it walked on roads more often than the Frances. But nothing absurd.
My husband felt really tired with the stones/asphalt, I did not feel any difference walking on them. So it probably varies from person to person. We are in our late-30s.

Although I've heard beautiful things about other Caminos (and I still intend to walk the Norte and Primitivo), I would not hesitate in recommending the Portuguese Camino. The places are beautiful, the walk is nice and the food is unbelievable!

Whatever you choose to walk, it will be a good choice. It's the Camino. Ultreia!

what kind of food did you find on the Portuguese?

 

[Anemone del Camino]

what kind of food did you find on the Portuguese?

Very similar tomthe food you'll find in Spain.

 

[Rina22]

Planning on getting back out there and walking in March 2018! Can't believe it's been so long after the various Caminos in 2013/2014.

For some time have been thinking about the Camino Portugues from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela. Given the relative minor elevation gains and a time constraint of just over 3 weeks seems like the right Camino!

In 2013/2014 I walked various Caminos without undue concern for various problems that inevitably arise while walking long distances or Forum comments. All were different...all were fantastic! For some reason I can't quite do the same this time as I read...really tough slogging out of Lisbon, bad stretches along highways, cobblestones are tough to walk on, accommodation challenges past Porto etc. etc. Perhaps being a few years older is the real problem!

Questions such as should I switch to another Camino i.e. a shortened Camino Norte or other routes keep popping up. Simply walking all day, enjoying the freedom of doing so...meeting interesting people has always been good enough in the past!

Welcome any thoughts...

I walked the Senda de Litoral from Porto to Santiago and although the cobblestones are difficult on the feet the scenery was stunning along the Atlantic coast. I pre booked all my accommodations in hostels or hotels through booking dot com. You may have less options for open bars/restaurants along the beach corridor in March but in all the towns/cities along the way shouldn't be a problem. Buen Camino. Johnniewalkers guide would be helpful and can be downloaded from Amazon I believe and is quite inexpensive.

 

[walking sticKs]

Hello Guy, I walked the central route from Porto to Santiago this July and found it very pleasant.
Yes, there are cobble stones but they are square not round so I found them easier to walk on.
The accommodations were plentiful and sufficient.
I am 65 with a cranky hip and knee; my last Camino was in 2011 so I spent hours worrying about my fitness (I trained) my daily distance and accommodations. Once I started I found that I had wasted a lot of energy for nothing.

A tip for the stones, if you use sticks put rubber tips on them to keep them from falling into the gaps between the stones.
I also wear Keen Targhee II mids which give me good ankle support and cushion.
Bom Caminho

 

[GuyA]

Many thanks to all who provided comments...much appreciated! Let me see great local people, a new route, good food, peacefulness associated with Camino walking, beautiful countryside in a number of areas...less so in a number of others...some discomfort and much joy along the way.

That's my interpretation of the comments received...which match how I felt about Caminos I have been fortunate enough to walk...all routes quite different...all of which I would highly recommend.

So Camino Portugues in spring 2018 it is!

Thanks

Guy

 

[peregrina2000]

what kind of food did you find on the Portuguese?

Very similar to the food you'll find in Spain.

Anemone, I think there's a difference. Much more fish in Portugal, served with unadorned cooked fresh vegetables. And homemade soup for starters at every single meal, the Portuguese LOVE soup. At least comparing food along the camino portugues with the frances, I would say in Portugal it's less fried and cheaper. And for those with a sweet tooth, the Spanish repertoire of pastries can't hold a candle to the Portuguese!

p.s. Just a heads up -- in Portugal, most restaurants will put plates of nibbles on the table when you sit down. These are NOT free and you will be charged if you eat them. If you don't want them, just wave them away, no one will get upset or care about this. It is not a trick to catch unsuspecting pilgrims, it is the custom everywhere in Portugal.

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

p.s. Just a heads up -- in Portugal, most restaurants will put plates of nibbles on the table when you sit down. These are NOT free and you will be charged if you eat them. If you don't want them, just wave them away, no one will get upset or care about this. It is not a trick to catch unsuspecting pilgrims, it is the custom everywhere in Portugal.

Too true! I've been caught out many times. In other parts of the world - especially Spain - nibbles are part of the meal. Not so in Portugal!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Anemone, I think there's a difference. Much more fish in Portugal, served with unadorned cooked fresh vegetables. And homemade soup for starters at every single meal, the Portuguese LOVE soup. At least comparing food along the camino portugues with the frances, I would say in Portugal it's less fried and cheaper. And for those with a sweet tooth, the Spanish repertoire of pastries can't hold a candle to the Portuguese!

I found it to be the same on the Portugues, in type if not reciepe, except for the tapas and other good meals in the Norte. If walking from Porto, half of the route or just about is in Spain after all. And the person asking about the food was respinding to a person who had walked from Porto. Food maybe different south of Porto.

The restaurant next to Santa Clara albergue in Vila do Conde serves standard pilgrim menu fare. I only found fresh fish on the menu once, and it was salmon and that was in Rates. Din't find veggetables either. In fact, we were so tired of same old fried pork type of food that in Barcelos we jumped at the opputinity to go out for sushi. That is when we discovered they set out stools by the tables for the lady's purses.

I did have a good lunch in Ponte de Lima where they served sarrabulho, but ended up eating a tomato for dinner as I couldn't find much more. Casa Fermanda served fried pork belly fat. Hardly anyone touched it. I remember meals in pontevedra that were standard Spanish bar food, which was really sad because I had spoted some excellent restaurants there, but my companions prefered fried calamari, shrimp in garlicky olive oil, etc. Same food found in Rubiaes and Arousa

In Armenteira quality was better, but this was is a well known restaurant, in the comedor: zamburinas and veal. A nice change. But the real find was seeing an advert on a bar's countertop for vermouth mixed with beer. It was 10 am when I saw it, so I passed, but ordered it in the evening in Tui. It became my afternoon drink from then on, causing Spaniards to shake their heads and not knowing how to price it.

I do have to agree with the prices though, at least for the cafe con leche. Cross into Pain and you go from paying 0.80€ to 1.20€.