Camino Portugues, or Camino Frances (again)?

[Andy T]

Hi all,

I'm planning a trip this summer and I was debating between doing the Camino Portugues from Lisbon and doing the Camino Frances for a second time (I did it for the first time last summer and LOVED it). I'll be starting July 21st.

On one hand, I'll be coming from Lisbon either way (leaving a friend here to start my Camino), and would love to see a whole new country. On the other hand, I enjoyed how social my Camino was last summer and I've heard the Camino Portugues is very isolated (on these forums, some people say there's plenty of people, and then others will say you can walk for a day or two without even seeing another pilgrim). I also speak some Spanish but no Portuguese. And it would be nice to re-do the Camino Frances with a little bit more experience under my belt, and see the cities again.

Also, is the Camino Portugues beautiful? (Hard to beat those views coming from SJPdP...) And is it hotter?

Also, I have some concerns about not speaking Portuguese and being on a relatively isolated path—for the Camino I did last summer, I met Spanish-speaking pilgrims who helped us sort things out all the time. I'm nervous that there will be times when I'll be the only English speaker in a given village in a given day. I speak some Spanish—some Portuguese speakers I know have told me this would be sufficient for "getting by" in Portugal. Is that true?

Thanks!

Andy

 

[KentuckyJay]

Hi all,

I'm planning a trip this summer and I was debating between doing the Camino Portugues from Lisbon and doing the Camino Frances for a second time (I did it for the first time last summer and LOVED it). I'll be starting July 21st.

On one hand, I'll be coming from Lisbon either way (leaving a friend here to start my Camino), and would love to see a whole new country. On the other hand, I enjoyed how social my Camino was last summer and I've heard the Camino Portugues is very isolated (on these forums, some people say there's plenty of people, and then others will say you can walk for a day or two without even seeing another pilgrim). I also speak some Spanish but no Portuguese. And it would be nice to re-do the Camino Frances with a little bit more experience under my belt, and see the cities again.

Also, is the Camino Portugues beautiful? (Hard to beat those views coming from SJPdP...) And is it hotter?

Also, I have some concerns about not speaking Portuguese and being on a relatively isolated path—for the Camino I did last summer, I met Spanish-speaking pilgrims who helped us sort things out all the time. I'm nervous that there will be times when I'll be the only English speaker in a given village in a given day. I speak some Spanish—some Portuguese speakers I know have told me this would be sufficient for "getting by" in Portugal. Is that true?

Thanks!

Andy

I am on the Portuguese Camino at this writing. Did Leon to Santiago 2 years ago. Speak no Portguese and it was not even a minor concern. Plenty of Portuguese speak English. And the part of the Camino in Portugal is better marked although more road walking is involved. Bom Camino.

 

[Andy T]

I am on the Portuguese Camino at this writing. Did Leon to Santiago 2 years ago. Speak no Portguese and it was not even a minor concern. Plenty of Portuguese speak English. And the part of the Camino in Portugal is better marked although more road walking is involved. Bom Camino.

Thank you! And are there other pilgrims? Are you having a hard time findings hostels?

 

[Deleted member 36903]

Thank you! And are there other pilgrims? Are you having a hard time findings hostels?

Hi Andy T. I can't advise about Lisbo to Porto as I walked from Porto to SdC April 26 - May 7 this year. Planned to do the Coastal route but changed my mind on arrival after a recce, and walked the central Camino. On my first day I didn't see a single pilgrim, but on arrival at the albergue at rates, the place was full to the rafters - I arrived quite late. After that the numbers grew and the accomodation options were good. If you decide to walk this camino you must stay at Casa Fernanda - you will see many reasons why posted by other forum members. The route I travelled was pretty, sometimes scenic but not on the scale of the Frances. Again, those who walked from Lisbon might offer a different view. You need to plan ahead more for food and drink as the cafes are not as plentiful as on the CF, but the restaurants are first class and the food is wonderful and cheap.

 

[Deleted member 36903]

I forgot to confirm KentuckyJay's observation that not speaking Portuguese will not be a problem. Prior to travelling I bought a Portuguese phrase book but it seemed that every time I attempted to use the language the person I was speaking to would switch to English 9perhaps because they preferred not to have to listen to their mother tongue being murdered by my linguistic inadequacy This was particularly so with younger people who have apparently grown up watching tv with English dialogue and Portuguese subtitles. (watching Bargain Hunt in a Portuguese cafe was an interesting experience). The most useful phrase as an opener was 'fala Ingles?' 'do you speak English?'

 

[KentuckyJay]

Thank you! And are there other pilgrims? Are you having a hard time findings hostels?

There are plenty of Peregrinos but have not had trouble finding a place to stay. B-T-W, I forgot to mention that I started in Porto so limit my remarks to that stretch. Sorry for any confusion. And yes do stay at Casa Fernanda, but call ahead. It was the only place that was completely full by mid afternoon. It is special.

 

[PEI_Heather]

There are few hostels between Lisbon and Porto, and those that are are privately owned (and generally amazing). Between Lisbon and Porto, we stayed mostly in 'residenciais' which are like really really good budget hotels...Clean clean clean, some with lovely historic architectural features, some with cafes or restaurants attached (meals are separate). For the pleasure of a bed, fresh clean sheets, pillow, towels, hot shower/bathroom in the room (or maybe not), convenient location, you will pay about 15E. (Oh, it's not a dorm.) If you meet up with someone as you walk, you can share the room. Cost will be about 15E each.
The food in Portugal was delicious, the people so friendly, the scenery wonderful. The cobblestones? Not so much. There is road walking but also diversions (riverside walks, for example) to avoid some of that. There is trail walking. There are walks through woods. There are arrows, there are places you must be vigilant to not miss the arrows!
If you do go to Lisbon, there are many of places to stay and eat. It's a beautiful city--spend some time there. When you want to start walking, find the Cathedral, get your carimbo (stamp)--make sure you have your Credential already if you are starting on a Saturday or Sunday--you won't be sold one at the Cathedral on those days. Once outside of the Cathedral, look at the stairway leading up to the main entrance door...on the lower left of the stairway, you will find your first yellow arrow! (If you can't find it first off, keep looking. It's there!)
If you read @peregrina2000's 2014 guide on the website the Confraternity of Saint James, (www.csj.org.uk) you'll get a much better sense of the Camino Portuguese than my ramblings here. It's a really helpful (and invaluable) guide to read before and during your walk.
The Camino Portuguese was far different than the Frances (for me). I loved it. Fewer pilgrims until Porto. Lots of pilgrims after Porto. You'd get the best of both worlds! (Would I do it again? Oh yes, in a heartbeat!)
Buen Camino, Andy!

 

[Andy T]

There are few hostels between Lisbon and Porto, and those that are are privately owned (and generally amazing). Between Lisbon and Porto, we stayed mostly in 'residenciais' which are like really really good budget hotels...Clean clean clean, some with lovely historic architectural features, some with cafes or restaurants attached (meals are separate). For the pleasure of a bed, fresh clean sheets, pillow, towels, hot shower/bathroom in the room (or maybe not), convenient location, you will pay about 15E. (Oh, it's not a dorm.) If you meet up with someone as you walk, you can share the room. Cost will be about 15E each.
The food in Portugal was delicious, the people so friendly, the scenery wonderful. The cobblestones? Not so much. There is road walking but also diversions (riverside walks, for example) to avoid some of that. There is trail walking. There are walks through woods. There are arrows, there are places you must be vigilant to not miss the arrows!
If you do go to Lisbon, there are many of places to stay and eat. It's a beautiful city--spend some time there. When you want to start walking, find the Cathedral, get your carimbo (stamp)--make sure you have your Credential already if you are starting on a Saturday or Sunday--you won't be sold one at the Cathedral on those days. Once outside of the Cathedral, look at the stairway leading up to the main entrance door...on the lower left of the stairway, you will find your first yellow arrow! (If you can't find it first off, keep looking. It's there!)
If you read @peregrina2000's 2014 guide on the website the Confraternity of Saint James, (www.csj.org.uk) you'll get a much better sense of the Camino Portuguese than my ramblings here. It's a really helpful (and invaluable) guide to read before and during your walk.
The Camino Portuguese was far different than the Frances (for me). I loved it. Fewer pilgrims until Porto. Lots of pilgrims after Porto. You'd get the best of both worlds! (Would I do it again? Oh yes, in a heartbeat!)
Buen Camino, Andy!

Thanks for this amazing and thorough response!! I really appreciate it.

 

[ScottRD]

I am on the Portuguese Camino at this writing. Did Leon to Santiago 2 years ago. Speak no Portguese and it was not even a minor concern. Plenty of Portuguese speak English. And the part of the Camino in Portugal is better marked although more road walking is involved. Bom Camino.

Hi! What are your thoughts on Leon to Santiago VS porto to santiago? I am trying to decide between the two. I leave June 21st.

 

[domigee]

Hi all,

I'm planning a trip this summer and I was debating between doing the Camino Portugues from Lisbon and doing the Camino Frances for a second time (I did it for the first time last summer and LOVED it). I'll be starting July 21st.

On one hand, I'll be coming from Lisbon either way (leaving a friend here to start my Camino), and would love to see a whole new country. On the other hand, I enjoyed how social my Camino was last summer and I've heard the Camino Portugues is very isolated (on these forums, some people say there's plenty of people, and then others will say you can walk for a day or two without even seeing another pilgrim). I also speak some Spanish but no Portuguese. And it would be nice to re-do the Camino Frances with a little bit more experience under my belt, and see the cities again.

Also, is the Camino Portugues beautiful? (Hard to beat those views coming from SJPdP...) And is it hotter?

Also, I have some concerns about not speaking Portuguese and being on a relatively isolated path—for the Camino I did last summer, I met Spanish-speaking pilgrims who helped us sort things out all the time. I'm nervous that there will be times when I'll be the only English speaker in a given village in a given day. I speak some Spanish—some Portuguese speakers I know have told me this would be sufficient for "getting by" in Portugal. Is that true?

Thanks!

Andy

Hi Andy,
I can't comment on the Camino portugues since I have never walked it but you'll find most people in Portugal speak Spanish too...

 

[SYates]

And more Portuguese than Spanish speak English (for historic trade reasons). Buen Camino, SY

 

[mickey.m]

Hi! What are your thoughts on Leon to Santiago VS porto to santiago? I am trying to decide between the two. I leave June 21st.

I walked the Camino from St Jean in early 2013 and from Porto in late 2015. Whilst the Portuguese route does have some interesting bits to see, My personal opinion is that the walk from Leon wins hands down. The Camino from Porto is tailor made for tour groups who by and large stick to themselves whilst on the Francais you will find socialising far easier.

 

[ScottRD]

I walked the Camino from St Jean in early 2013 and from Porto in late 2015. Whilst the Portuguese route does have some interesting bits to see, My personal opinion is that the walk from Leon wins hands down. The Camino from Porto is tailor made for tour groups who by and large stick to themselves whilst on the Francais you will find socialising far easier.

Thanks Mickey! I have decided to finish the camino from Leon - most likely via the Invierno route. Thanks!

 

[Botaivica]

Hi Andy T

I walked both Camino and I say: go from Lisbon

There are pilgrims, but less than CF. There are albergues, but less than CF. There are also bars and cafe, but less than CF.

Or simply said, CP is less commercial than CF . But it is more natural, the environment is beautiful, no ads on every tree, no problem with the agreement and prices in Portugal are cheaper than in Spain. E.g. tea in Portugal is 0,50 €, in Spain I pay 1,00 - 1,40€. Or beer, in Portugal 0.80 - 1,20 € and in Spain 1.40 - 2,50 €.

Another thing, I never used guide. All you need is the internet, you have a lot of information on it.

It is true that CP does not start in Porto, from Lisbon to Porto is much more natural than from Porto to Santiago.

So, choice is yours