Camino Portuguese from Porto

[Martin 888]

Planning a second walk on a different route on the Portuguese from Porto in March '23. I always find it difficult to visualise stages and stops using individual map pages from the guides (I don't like adhering to suggested stages in the guides either). So I cobbled together the attached for my planned route which allows me to see the whole thing laid out on one 'long' page. Thought I would share it as it maybe useful for others.

 

[dougfitz]

I met several pilgrims this year who had crossed to the Central Route from Vila do Conde, and wondered what that might have looked like on a map. Thanks for sharing.

 

[amsm424]

This is helpful. Thank you! I'm planning my Camino for June 2023. I also want to walk the Litoral Route and then switch over at Vila do Conde and continue with the Central Route. When you return, you'll have to describe what it was like to make that switch between routes. (I'm nervous about getting lost on that part.)

 

[trecile]

The app mapy.cz shows the route between Vila do Conde and the Central Route, so you can use it to keep from getting lost. Here's a screenshot from the app - the Camino routes are the dark blue lines, including the connector between the Litoral and the Central.



I walked that route in 2019, and I know that it was marked, but I don't remember how well.

 

[amsm424]

The app mapy.cz shows the route between Vila do Conde and the Central Route, so you can use it to keep from getting lost. Here's a screenshot from the app - the Camino routes are the dark blue lines, including the connector between the Litoral and the Central.

View attachment 138248

I walked that route in 2019, and I know that it was marked, but I don't remember how well.

That is so helpful. Thank you!

 

[dougfitz]

The app mapy.cz shows the route between Vila do Conde and the Central Route, so you can use it to keep from getting lost. Here's a screenshot from the app - the Camino routes are the dark blue lines, including the connector between the Litoral and the Central.

View attachment 138248

I walked that route in 2019, and I know that it was marked, but I don't remember how well.

The OSMAnd+ app also shows the route, but it seems much clearer in the mapy.cz app. I suspect it is in the OSM mapping, so any app that uses that and enables walking and cycling routes will display it.

 

[mike mcbroom]

Planning a second walk on a different route on the Portuguese from Porto in March '23. I always find it difficult to visualise stages and stops using individual map pages from the guides (I don't like adhering to suggested stages in the guides either). So I cobbled together the attached for my planned route which allows me to see the whole thing laid out on one 'long' page. Thought I would share it as it maybe useful for others.

View attachment 138228

Nice

 

[BobY333]

We walked this route in Sept/Oct 2021 and did the crossover at Vila do Conde after having an amazing meal and spending the night there (both at Venceslau). We had no problem with staying on the Camino since it was well marked. We also added the Spiritual Variant which had the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua which was one of the most beautiful Camino days - well worth it!

 

[Charlie Davenport]

The app mapy.cz shows the route between Vila do Conde and the Central Route, so you can use it to keep from getting lost. Here's a screenshot from the app - the Camino routes are the dark blue lines, including the connector between the Litoral and the Central.

View attachment 138248

I walked that route in 2019, and I know that it was marked, but I don't remember how well.

It was well enough for us to not have a problem.. did it also in 2019...

 

[amsm424]

We walked this route in Sept/Oct 2021 and did the crossover at Vila do Conde after having an amazing meal and spending the night there (both at Venceslau). We had no problem with staying on the Camino since it was well marked. We also added the Spiritual Variant which had the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua which was one of the most beautiful Camino days - well worth it!

Oh I have so many questions for you. As of right now, here is my plan. I have an overnight flight booked from Toronto to Lisbon, which leaves June 7th and arrives around 9:30am on June 8th in Lisbon. My plan is to explore and stay the night in Lisbon on June 8th. Then, the next day I will take a bus or train to Porto and get my Pilgrim's Passport and explore Porto, and then start my Camino on June 10th. I'm hoping to be done by June 24th (exactly 2 weeks later) to then meet up with friends and explore Europe.

I want to take the Litoral Route to Vile do Conde and then switch over to the Central Route. If I have time, I'm contemplating taking the Spiritual Variant as well.

Here are my questions:

1. Is walking from Porto to Vila do Conde doable in one day? By my calculations (please tell me if I'm wrong) it's about 32km/20 miles. (I guess you could say that it's dependent on the physical level of every individual.)

2. I realized a few days ago that June 10th is a major national Portuguese holiday. It's their independence day, so many things are shut down and there are street parties, parades, etc. I'm worried about finding accommodation the first night based on this. (Maybe I'll just have to book way in advance, but I'm debating between Labruge and Vila do Conde, hence my first question.)

3. Do you remember how many days it took you and/or your stages to reach Santiago? I'm trying to figure out if there is enough time to do the Spiritual Variant. (I fear I may be a couple days short).


I know you may not be able to answer all of these questions, but I appreciate any insight you may have.

 

[Oliviao]

This is helpful. Thank you! I'm planning my Camino for June 2023. I also want to walk the Litoral Route and then switch over at Vila do Conde and continue with the Central Route. When you return, you'll have to describe what it was like to make that switch between routes. (I'm nervous about getting lost on that part.)

It's very simple - we did it in March. Head to Arcos

 

[Grousedoctor]

1. Is walking from Porto to Vila do Conde doable in one day? By my calculations (please tell me if I'm wrong) it's about 32km/20 miles. (I guess you could say that it's dependent on the physical level of every individual.)

It’s certainly very doable, but it is quite a long day. My wife and I have now done this stage two different ways. On our first Camino, we took the #500 bus from downtown Porto up to Matosinhos where we began walking. Last year, because we had built in some extra time, we took part of a day to walk from the cathedral to the market at Matosinhos and then the next day picked up our walk there and went just past Vila do Conde to Povoa Varzim with no difficulty.

When we walked the Central Route, we took 12 days. One special spot for an overnight is Casa de Fernanda between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima. I’d also recommend breaking up the stage between Tui and Redondela with an overnight in O Porriño. This past spring we walked the Coastal Route and did it in 15 days that included an extra day in Porto and the Variante Espiritual. So, very doable within your timeframe.

 

[trecile]

1. Is walking from Porto to Vila do Conde doable in one day? By my calculations (please tell me if I'm wrong) it's about 32km/20 miles. (I guess you could say that it's dependent on the physical level of every individual.)

Since it's all very flat, and along boardwalks you probably could do it in one day, but there's a lot to see along the way, so I would stop at Matosinhos, Labruge or Praia de Angeiras. I would not skip the walk along the river and then up the coast to Matosinhos.

Porto - Labruge | Camino Portugués de la Costa | Gronze.com

La jornada inicial plantea una disyuntiva: seguir la orilla del río Duero y las playas del litoral atlántico, en un recorrido variado y entretenido, o bien optar por el trazado interior por Padrão da Légua y el aeropuerto, sin alicientes y donde no veremos el mar en ningún momento. Tratándose...

www.gronze.com

​

 

[amsm424]

It’s certainly very doable, but it is quite a long day. My wife and I have now done this stage two different ways. On our first Camino, we took the #500 bus from downtown Porto up to Matosinhos where we began walking. Last year, because we had built in some extra time, we took part of a day to walk from the cathedral to the market at Matosinhos and then the next day picked up our walk there and went just past Vila do Conde to Povoa Varzim with no difficulty.

When we walked the Central Route, we took 12 days. One special spot for an overnight is Casa de Fernanda between Barcelos and Ponte de Lima. I’d also recommend breaking up the stage between Tui and Redondela with an overnight in O Porriño. This past spring we walked the Coastal Route and did it in 15 days that included an extra day in Porto and the Variante Espiritual. So, very doable within your timeframe.

Thank you for the information! I'm hoping not to take any public transportation and walk along the river and then up the coast.

I'm also hoping to stay at Casa de Fernanda (everyone keeps talking about this place). In your opinion, how early should I book? 3 months? 1 month? 2 weeks? A few days?

I'm happy to know that everything seems doable within my timeframe.

 

[amsm424]

Since it's all very flat, and along boardwalks you probably could do it in one day, but there's a lot to see along the way, so I would stop at Matosinhos, Labruge or Praia de Angeiras. I would not skip the walk along the river and then up the coast to Matosinhos.

Porto - Labruge | Camino Portugués de la Costa | Gronze.com

La jornada inicial plantea una disyuntiva: seguir la orilla del río Duero y las playas del litoral atlántico, en un recorrido variado y entretenido, o bien optar por el trazado interior por Padrão da Légua y el aeropuerto, sin alicientes y donde no veremos el mar en ningún momento. Tratándose...

www.gronze.com

​

Yes, I'm planning to walk along the river and then along the coast.

 

[trecile]

Yes, I'm planning to walk along the river and then along the coast.

It's such a nice way to leave Porto.
We stayed in an apartment overlooking the river, and it was fun watching the pilgrims walk by.

 

[amsm424]

It's such a nice way to leave Porto.
We stayed in an apartment overlooking the river, and it was fun watching the pilgrims walk by.

That sounds lovely!

 

[Grousedoctor]

Thank you for the information! I'm hoping not to take any public transportation and walk along the river and then up the coast.

I'm also hoping to stay at Casa de Fernanda (everyone keeps talking about this place). In your opinion, how early should I book? 3 months? 1 month? 2 weeks? A few days?

I'm happy to know that everything seems doable within my timeframe.

I remember contacting Fernanda a couple months out from our Camino. However, we walked early in the year (a March Camino) when there weren’t a lot of pilgrims along The Way. On the particular night we stayed with Fernanda only three others shared her place with us. When you’re walking might be different, but by contacting her a couple months out, she can certainly tell you when would be best to reserve. It was a very special stay there and one I’m sure you will enjoy as well. And, speaking of special places, we overnighted on the VE at the Monastery at Armenteria.

 

[BobY333]

We started on 9/24 late morning after getting our first stamp at the cathedral. It was a beautiful, “short” walk to Matosinhos where we spent the night. Night 2 was Vila do Conde and Night 4 was at Casa Fernanda which is an absolute must-do!

We walked into Santiago on October 6, so just under two weeks. We didn’t really press too much at all on any particular day, so you should be able to fit it all in! Buen Camino!

 

[amsm424]

We started on 9/24 late morning after getting our first stamp at the cathedral. It was a beautiful, “short” walk to Matosinhos where we spent the night. Night 2 was Vila do Conde and Night 4 was at Casa Fernanda which is an absolute must-do!

We walked into Santiago on October 6, so just under two weeks. We didn’t really press too much at all on any particular day, so you should be able to fit it all in! Buen Camino!

Thank you for the help! Do you remember where you stayed Night 3? As of right now, I'm debating whether Casa de Fernanda would be Night 3 or Night 4. I think three nights is doable, but might be too aggressive and doesn't leave much room to "stop and smell the roses" so to speak. As of now, I'm thinking something like this:

June 10th- 1. Porto - Labruge, 24 km
June 11th- 2. Labruge - Rates, 22 km
June 12th- 3. Sao Pedro de Rates - Barcelos, 16 km
June 13th- 4. Barcelos - Casa de Fernanda, 26.5 km

 

[BobY333]

Thank you for the help! Do you remember where you stayed Night 3? As of right now, I'm debating whether Casa de Fernanda would be Night 3 or Night 4. I think three nights is doable, but might be too aggressive and doesn't leave much room to "stop and smell the roses" so to speak. As of now, I'm thinking something like this:

June 10th- 1. Porto - Labruge, 24 km
June 11th- 2. Labruge - Rates, 22 km
June 12th- 3. Sao Pedro de Rates - Barcelos, 16 km
June 13th- 4. Barcelos - Casa de Fernanda, 26.5 km

We had a bit of a splurge and spent night 3 at
Quinta do Convento da Franqueira. It’s usually a two night minimum, but they were kind enough to let us spend just the one night. I can send you our entire itinerary in a dm if you’d like (so as not to bore the whole group!). Getting to Fernanda for night three would be a lot, if you ask me. Enjoy the planning!

 

[gittiharre]

This is helpful. Thank you! I'm planning my Camino for June 2023. I also want to walk the Litoral Route and then switch over at Vila do Conde and continue with the Central Route. When you return, you'll have to describe what it was like to make that switch between routes. (I'm nervous about getting lost on that part.)

I did it, very easy. Some pretty, but narrow walled roads, no footpath, best to go on a Sunday, when less traffic. I did it on a Sunday and was very grateful.

 

[amsm424]

We had a bit of a splurge and spent night 3 at
Quinta do Convento da Franqueira. It’s usually a two night minimum, but they were kind enough to let us spend just the one night. I can send you our entire itinerary in a dm if you’d like (so as not to bore the whole group!). Getting to Fernanda for night three would be a lot, if you ask me. Enjoy the planning!

Thank you for all of the help. If you wouldn't mind sending me a dm of your itinerary, I would greatly appreciate it!

 

[amsm424]

I did it, very easy. Some pretty, but narrow walled roads, no footpath, best to go on a Sunday, when less traffic. I did it on a Sunday and was very grateful.

Great! By pure luck, I will be doing this on a Sunday!

 

[gittiharre]

Thank you for the help! Do you remember where you stayed Night 3? As of right now, I'm debating whether Casa de Fernanda would be Night 3 or Night 4. I think three nights is doable, but might be too aggressive and doesn't leave much room to "stop and smell the roses" so to speak. As of now, I'm thinking something like this:

June 10th- 1. Porto - Labruge, 24 km
June 11th- 2. Labruge - Rates, 22 km
June 12th- 3. Sao Pedro de Rates - Barcelos, 16 km
June 13th- 4. Barcelos - Casa de Fernanda, 26.5 km

I loved staying at campsite Angeiras Orbitur in Lavra, 10 km before Vila do Conde. Just turn up and the mobile homes for pilgrims are very reasonable, half of Booking.com price.
There is a beautiful pool at the campsite and lovely beachside restaurants with the freshest fish., char coal grills etc...
From there lunch in Vila do Conde and on to Rates.
Barcelos is lovely. Worth spending pm in. Then on to Fernanda.

 

[Joe C]

This is helpful. Thank you! I'm planning my Camino for June 2023. I also want to walk the Litoral Route and then switch over at Vila do Conde and continue with the Central Route. When you return, you'll have to describe what it was like to make that switch between routes. (I'm nervous about getting lost on that part.)

I did this a few months ago. There aren't a lot of turns, but some of them occur at somewhat confusing junctures. There is little to no signage after you leave Vila do Conde, because the cut across is not an official route, so you definitely have to have maps and/or apps.

Also, be aware that parts of this are on roads with no shoulders, high walls, and blind curves, so exercise a lot of caution. On your way out of Vila do Conde, there is a spectacular view of one of the old Roman aqueducts.

Arcos has two hotel rurals, which are on the pricier side (for Portugal).

 

[trecile]

Some pretty, but narrow walled roads, no footpath, best to go on a Sunday, when less traffic.

Great suggestion. I did it on a Thursday, and I didn't feel unsafe, but a Sunday would be better.

I loved staying at campsite Angeiras Orbitur in Lavra, 10 km before Vila do Conde. Just turn up and the mobile homes for pilgrims are very reasonable, half of Booking.com price.

The pilgrim rate, which you can't book ahead is 16 Euro for your own little bungalow, which has electricity, including a mini-fridge, but no plumbing. The showers and toilets are down a path

 

[gml]

The Wise Pilgrim app maps the path from Vila do Conde to the central route near Rates. It saved me many times from getting lost.

 

[David Tallan]

Thank you for the help! Do you remember where you stayed Night 3? As of right now, I'm debating whether Casa de Fernanda would be Night 3 or Night 4. I think three nights is doable, but might be too aggressive and doesn't leave much room to "stop and smell the roses" so to speak. As of now, I'm thinking something like this:

June 10th- 1. Porto - Labruge, 24 km
June 11th- 2. Labruge - Rates, 22 km
June 12th- 3. Sao Pedro de Rates - Barcelos, 16 km
June 13th- 4. Barcelos - Casa de Fernanda, 26.5 km

I think those KM are off (particularly the last).
I did:
Oct 1: Porto to Vila Chã, 24.5 km or 26 km, depending on source
Oct 2: Vila Chã to Rates, 20 km
Oct 3: Rates to Barcelos, 15.9 km or 16.3 km, depending on source
Oct 4: Barcelos to Casa da Fernanda, 18.8 km or 20 km, depending on source

As you can see, my first two days were a little off from yours, because I walked a little further the first day. Our third days are about the same. But I found the fourth day from Barcelos to Casa da Fernanda a lot shorter than you are anticipating. It made for a short day to Ponte de Lima on my fifth day, but not nearly so short as if I had walked another 6.5 km!

 

[trecile]

My notes show that my day from Barcelos to Casa Fernanda was 20 km.

 

[gittiharre]

I think those KM are off (particularly the last).
I did:
Oct 1: Porto to Vila Chã, 24.5 km or 26 km, depending on source
Oct 2: Vila Chã to Rates, 20 km
Oct 3: Rates to Barcelos, 15.9 km or 16.3 km, depending on source
Oct 4: Barcelos to Casa da Fernanda, 18.8 km or 20 km, depending on source

As you can see, my first two days were a little off from yours, because I walked a little further the first day. Our third days are about the same. But I found the fourth day from Barcelos to Casa da Fernanda a lot shorter than you are anticipating. It made for a short day to Ponte de Lima on my fifth day, but not nearly so short as if I had walked another 6.5 km!

Ponte de Lima is so pretty, it is worth spending time there.

 

[David Tallan]

Ponte de Lima is so pretty, it is worth spending time there.

I don't disagree. It took the short day from Casa da Fernanda with more time in Ponte de Lima, unlike some fellow pilgrims who pushed on.

 

[Joe C]

I don't disagree. It took the short day from Casa da Fernanda with more time in Ponte de Lima, unlike some fellow pilgrims who pushed on.

Casa da Fernanda is the best!!!

 

[BobY333]

I don't disagree. It took the short day from Casa da Fernanda with more time in Ponte de Lima, unlike some fellow pilgrims who pushed on.

Same! Really nice city.

 

[amsm424]

Casa da Fernanda is the best!!!

How far out from my Camino do you recommend booking?

 

[trecile]

How far out from my Camino do you recommend booking?

I would call her when you are sure of your dates. Her number is +351 914 589 521, and she's not on WhatsApp.

 

[Joe C]

I would call her when you are sure of your dates. Her number is +351 914 589 521, and she's not on WhatsApp.

I just walked in and asked if there were any cancellations, and I lucked out!

 

[Montana Girl]

Casa da Fernanda is the best!!!

Hi. Do you know if they have contact other than their phone number? Will be there early March and am hoping to reserve a couple rooms. Thanks.

 

[trecile]

Hi. Do you know if they have contact other than their phone number? Will be there early March and am hoping to reserve a couple rooms. Thanks.

Just the phone number as far as I know. There is a dorm with single beds for 10 people, and I believe that there was one private room.

Acogida Casa da Fernanda | Albergue de Peregrinos en Vitorino dos Piães | Gronze.com

Información del albergue de peregrinos Acogida Casa da Fernanda, en Vitorino dos Piães: Precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

 

[trecile]

Gronze.com shows a couple of other places to stay near Casa da Fernanda, one of which does have private rooms and is on booking.com.

Casa Rural O Estábulo de Valinhas - Vitorino dos Piães | Casa Rural | Gronze.com

Información del Casa Rural Casa Rural O Estábulo de Valinhas, en Vitorino dos Piães: precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

 

[BobY333]

Just the phone number as far as I know. There is a dorm with single beds for 10 people, and I believe that there was one private room.

Acogida Casa da Fernanda | Albergue de Peregrinos en Vitorino dos Piães | Gronze.com

Información del albergue de peregrinos Acogida Casa da Fernanda, en Vitorino dos Piães: Precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

For that time of year the one private room would be good. When it’s warmer there’s also an outdoor queen(?) size bed off the back of the dorm surrounded by mosquito netting.

 

[Montana Girl]

Gronze.com shows a couple of other places to stay near Casa da Fernanda, one of which does have private rooms and is on booking.com.

Casa Rural O Estábulo de Valinhas - Vitorino dos Piães | Casa Rural | Gronze.com

Información del Casa Rural Casa Rural O Estábulo de Valinhas, en Vitorino dos Piães: precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

Thank you

 

[Lleslie]

I booked for 5 of us about a month ago for early June at Casa da Fernanda. Received a lovely detailed reply the next day

 

[amsm424]

I booked for 5 of us about a month ago for early June at Casa da Fernanda. Received a lovely detailed reply the next day

Thank you for the information! Did you call her, email her, use Whatsapp, or something else?

 

[Lleslie]

I sent a txt message to her number

 

[LisaJS]

I called Casa da Fernanda to reserve for Apr 27 for 2 people. The person I spoke to just took my first name and nationality, but not my phone number or email. Is that usually how it's done? Will our beds be given away if we do not arrive by a certain time?

 

[Lleslie]

Hi LisaJS, this is the reply I got from Fernanda and looking back I see that I only signed off my original request with my first name, city and country! Bom caminho, Linda

 

[LisaJS]

Thank you, Lleslie! I won't worry, then. Maybe I will try to reconfirm a day or two in advance, just to be sure, though. We will probably be on the slower side compared to other pilgrims. This is the only place I'm booking before leaving home. If it seems necessary, we'll book other nights a day in advance.

 

[Camembert]

I called Casa da Fernanda to reserve for Apr 27 for 2 people. The person I spoke to just took my first name and nationality, but not my phone number or email. Is that usually how it's done? Will our beds be given away if we do not arrive by a certain time?

It is usually that Fernanda just note your name and nationality in the reservations book
I stayed at their house many times since 2013 , was hospitaleiro there and answered the phone many times especially when Germans called because Fernanda does not speak German.
Usually you will show up coming from Barcelos between 12 and 13.00 hours
it is very unusual pilgrims show up later than about 16:00 hours and if you booked in advance your bed will be reserved for you.

Fernanda does not answer the phone at some times but next to her albergue she does a lot of social work in the hamlet she lives e.g. caring for sick relatives etc.
She has no Whatsapp but her husband has. If you want to contact her ,give met a pm .
I communicate very often with Jacinto, her husband.

 

[LisaJS]

It is usually that Fernanda just note your name and nationality in the reservations book
I stayed at their house many times since 2013 , was hospitaleiro there and answered the phone many times especially when Germans called because Fernanda does not speak German.
Usually you will show up coming from Barcelos between 12 and 13.00 hours
it is very unusual pilgrims show up later than about 16:00 hours and if you booked in advance your bed will be reserved for you.

Fernanda does not answer the phone at some times but next to her albergue she does a lot of social work in the hamlet she lives e.g. caring for sick relatives etc.
She has no Whatsapp but her husband has. If you want to contact her ,give met a pm .
I communicate very often with Jacinto, her husband.

Thank you, Albertinho. I sent a text to confirm my reservation and received a reply, so I am all set now. But I really appreciate your offer.

Sidenote: I tried to make my reservation over text initially but after several days I had not received a response, so I called. Now I think that my first text didn't go through. All the digits were correct but it looks like my phone did not interpret them as an international number. I entered the number differently for the 2nd text (setting up a contact for Casa da Fernanda first). I could see that the number was formatted correctly and I received a reply later the same day.

 

[amsm424]

Thank you, Albertinho. I sent a text to confirm my reservation and received a reply, so I am all set now. But I really appreciate your offer.

Sidenote: I tried to make my reservation over text initially but after several days I had not received a response, so I called. Now I think that my first text didn't go through. All the digits were correct but it looks like my phone did not interpret them as an international number. I entered the number differently for the 2nd text (setting up a contact for Casa da Fernanda first). I could see that the number was formatted correctly and I received a reply later the same day.

Thank you for the information. I plan to start my Portuguese Camino in June and would love to book here.

 

[HumanistHiker]

Is the number someone posted above (+351 914 589 521) a mobile number for Casa Fernanda to which I can send a text message to book or is it a landline? (In the UK if someone tries to text a landline you get a robotic voice message left on the answerphone - not sure if the same is true in Portugal).

 

[Joe C]

3. Do you remember how many days it took you and/or your stages to reach Santiago? I'm trying to figure out if there is enough time to do the Spiritual Variant. (I fear I may be a couple days short).

Took me 13 days, but I'm slow. I cut over to Arcos from Vila do Conde.

 

[Lleslie]

Is the number someone posted above (+351 914 589 521) a mobile number for Casa Fernanda to which I can send a text message to book or is it a landline? (In the UK if someone tries to text a landline you get a robotic voice message left on the answerphone - not sure if the same is true in Portugal).

It is a mobile number - I reserved by texting her on that number and got a reply the next day. Fernanda speaks excellant english so you could phone her too

 

[HumanistHiker]

Super, thank you Lleslie. I have texted Fernanda in that number to ask about booking