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OBSOLETE COVID THREAD Camino Portuguese right now, Lisbon vs. Porto start

OBSOLETE COVID THREAD
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CaliHiker

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Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Frances May/June 2018
We have flights planned to land in Lisbon on June 4th and start a camino from either Lisbon or Porto. Is there a forum topic yet on what things are like right now on the Portuguese Caminos? Specifically, are there other pilgrims. I need to decide where we should start from, and which routes to take. We are fully vaccinated and have verified that we are allowed to enter Portugal. One of the best aspects of my pervious Camino was the people we encountered, and I’d like to meet and see other pilgrims, safely of course!
 
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I will be a month behind you and I'm planning on starting in Lisbon. My understanding is that the Camino south of Porto is a lot less traveled with fewer amenities. Ill be interested in what your experience is now. Have a great day .
 
We have flights planned to land in Lisbon on June 4th and start a camino from either Lisbon or Porto. Is there a forum topic yet on what things are like right now on the Portuguese Caminos? Specifically, are there other pilgrims. I need to decide where we should start from, and which routes to take. We are fully vaccinated and have verified that we are allowed to enter Portugal. One of the best aspects of my pervious Camino was the people we encountered, and I’d like to meet and see other pilgrims, safely of course!
I consider myself a quite experienced walker/pilgrim, but I have to say: I started in Lisbon. The first days I walked on asphalt/highways with heavy, dangerous traffic, with few albergues Used mostly hotels/hostals.. After 5 days I quit, took a train to Porto, and restarted from there. Much better. IMHO, from Lisbon it is underdeveloped and not what you would call a Camino, as most people see it.
 
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My understanding is that the Camino south of Porto is a lot less traveled with fewer amenities.
This is correct. If @CaliHiker wants to meet other pilgrims, the Lisbon-Porto section of the CP during the pandemic is not going to provide much of that. IIRC, we saw 12 or so other pilgrims in 20 days between Lisbon and Porto last September, and some of those we only saw once and never met.
 
This is correct. If @CaliHiker wants to meet other pilgrims, the Lisbon-Porto section of the CP during the pandemic is not going to provide much of that. IIRC, we saw 12 or so other pilgrims in 20 days between Lisbon and Porto last September, and some of those we only saw once and never met.
That’s actually very good feedback for us @jungleboy. If we did “start” from Lisbon, we were already planning to skip ahead to Santarem to actually start there so I know that the first few days out of Lisbon are as @alexwalker says. But knowing there are so few people really influences me to skip on to Porto right away. @Paintboy2 I’ll update the forum users on what we see and experience if I can figure out which thread to post in.
 
That’s actually very good feedback for us @jungleboy. If we did “start” from Lisbon, we were already planning to skip ahead to Santarem to actually start there so I know that the first few days out of Lisbon are as @alexwalker says. But knowing there are so few people really influences me to skip on to Porto right away. @Paintboy2 I’ll update the forum users on what we see and experience if I can figure out which thread to post in.
On my first 5 days out of Lisbon (some places poorly marked), in May 2017 (High-season) I saw exactly 0 - Zero - pilgrims... And due to not many albergues, I skipped, by train, from Santarem to Porto.
 
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I consider myself a quite experienced walker/pilgrim, but I have to say: I started in Lisbon. The first days I walked on asphalt/highways with heavy, dangerous traffic, with few albergues Used mostly hotels/hostals.. After 5 days I quit, took a train to Porto, and restarted from there. Much better. IMHO, from Lisbon it is underdeveloped and not what you would call a Camino, as most people see it.
My own experience from Lisbon in 2019 was quite different from this. I enjoyed the added solitude, but met numerous other pilgrims. And before Porto it was more pilgrims than tourists.
Porto to Tui was also wonderful. After Tui there were a lot of 100k travellers and I did meet some lovely folk among them.
There was some close-to or even on the road walking, but it didn't ruin my experience. I had planned a few rest days along the way, but by doing a few short days ended up not taking a single rest day.
Buen Camino/ Bom caminho
 
I'll be 6 days behind you. Am flying into Lisbon on the 12th. Will be walking Lisbon to Porto as I walked from Porto to Santiago in 2019. Am fully expecting a 'quiet' Camino, with few in any other pilgrims but tbh that's what I've experienced in previous years particularly on the Camino de Madrid last year (0 other pilgrims), although I didn't see many on the Ingles/Muxia/Finisterre the previous year. All part of the rich tapestry. As for accommodation - many of the Albergues before Porto still appear to be shut, although I have reservations in Rabacal and Porto itself. Hostels/hotels/CRs everywhere else. Bom caminho, whichever option you decide.
 
I consider myself a quite experienced walker/pilgrim, but I have to say: I started in Lisbon. The first days I walked on asphalt/highways with heavy, dangerous traffic, with few albergues Used mostly hotels/hostals.. After 5 days I quit, took a train to Porto, and restarted from there. Much better. IMHO, from Lisbon it is underdeveloped and not what you would call a Camino, as most people see it.
Read with interest as I had a very similar experience except I walked only 4 days from Lisbon. Unfortunately torrential rains, poor gear choices, overconfidence and terrible blisters did me in…took the train to Porto…sought medical attention and hobbled my way to Santiago from there.

I will forever remember the moment I told my walking friend that I had to quit…only time I have had to do so in various Caminos and other hikes. I’m the end though it all worked out!
 
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We have flights planned to land in Lisbon on June 4th and start a camino from either Lisbon or Porto. Is there a forum topic yet on what things are like right now on the Portuguese Caminos? Specifically, are there other pilgrims. I need to decide where we should start from, and which routes to take. We are fully vaccinated and have verified that we are allowed to enter Portugal. One of the best aspects of my pervious Camino was the people we encountered, and I’d like to meet and see other pilgrims, safely of course!

We have flights planned to land in Lisbon on June 4th and start a camino from either Lisbon or Porto. Is there a forum topic yet on what things are like right now on the Portuguese Caminos? Specifically, are there other pilgrims. I need to decide where we should start from, and which routes to take. We are fully vaccinated and have verified that we are allowed to enter Portugal. One of the best aspects of my pervious Camino was the people we encountered, and I’d like to meet and see other pilgrims, safely of course!
Hi I am currently walking from Lisbon to Fatima so the same path till you get to Santarem. I'm just going to say enjoy some time in Lisbon which is as great city, though everything not open. The municipal albergues don't seem to be open and I had to miss a stage as no where to stay. I doubt if it was a great loss as the next few days were either industry or flat farmland. I can't say what it's like past Santerem on the Camino Santiago, certainly gets better on the Fatima route.
Personally I'd head for Porto, whichever route from there will be much nicer, I did the literal.
Getting hot now in Portugal about 28° today not pleasant for walking, not many folk around at the moment
 
I’m with those who loved the camino south of Porto. I started in Santarem, avoiding the first two days out of Lisbon. It was very quiet but I saw other pilgrims every day and walked with some great people. It’s a more authentically Portuguese experience IMO.
 
That’s actually very good feedback for us @jungleboy. If we did “start” from Lisbon, we were already planning to skip ahead to Santarem to actually start there so I know that the first few days out of Lisbon are as @alexwalker says. But knowing there are so few people really influences me to skip on to Porto right away. @Paintboy2 I’ll update the forum users on what we see and experience if I can figure out which thread to post in.
I think that JungleBoy knows his stuff living in Portugal. I usually almost always agree with @alexwalker but when he said:
I consider myself a quite experienced walker/pilgrim, but I have to say: I started in Lisbon. The first days I walked on asphalt/highways with heavy, dangerous traffic, with few albergues Used mostly hotels/hostals.. After 5 days I quit, took a train to Porto, and restarted from there. Much better. IMHO, from Lisbon it is underdeveloped and not what you would call a Camino, as most people see it.
I had to really disagree. He is without a doubt a very experienced walker. He is also correct about the first few days walking out of Lisbon not being the nicest of nice days. I did enjoy walking from Lisbon. I enjoyed the solitude and I was never lacking for other Pilgrims along the way and met not as many as you meet after Porto but just as wonderful. There are also some really lovely cities to be in like Tomar and Coimbra. You can also take the variant to Fatima and easily rejoin the camino to Porto. There are less services so I would recommend having a couple of free apps on your phone to check to see what is open or closed like Buen Camino or Wise Pilgrim. The website Gronze.com can be opened on Chrome and translated and there is a wealth of information there. Call ahead as you never know what will be open or closed. When you go from Porto there are options on walking. The traditional route or the coastal to name 2. There is also the Spiritual Variant that is some of the prettiest walking anywhere. Remember when you are going it will be really hot so be prepared.
In my experience many more people in Portugal speak English than in Spain. Also the more time you spend in Portugal the better. To me the Portuguese people are the nicest, friendliest, most generous people you will meet anywhere, and I mean anywhere.
 
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I’ve been reading the forum for many years now, and I think I’m right when I say that the “should we start in Lisbon” question has been the one route question that produces the most strenuous disagreement.

In 2014, Mario of @santaremhostel put together a short video of some of his guests. You can see it here.

Another thread that I think is helpful. And there are many more if you search “starting in Lisbon.”

The most recent “live” thread from @jungleboy is another one that I think is essential reading — especially since so much has changed since I first walked it in 2008! The number of albergues is continuing to increase, the route has been moved more and more off-road, but the one thing that remains the same is that the food is fresh, good, and cheap, and the people are inicredibly kind and helpful. The towns of Tomar, Coimbra, and Santarem have a lot to see and visit. And if you’re into ruins — the abandoned royal estate at Quinta da Cardiga and the Roman ruins at Condeixa are just icing on the cake!

Bottom line is that there are a lot of different opinions and obviously no “right” answer.

One obvious advantage of the Caminho from Lisboa that no one has mentioned is that it is about two weeks LONGER! 😁
 
We have flights planned to land in Lisbon on June 4th and start a camino from either Lisbon or Porto. Is there a forum topic yet on what things are like right now on the Portuguese Caminos? Specifically, are there other pilgrims. I need to decide where we should start from, and which routes to take. We are fully vaccinated and have verified that we are allowed to enter Portugal. One of the best aspects of my pervious Camino was the people we encountered, and I’d like to meet and see other pilgrims, safely of course!
I walked from Lisbon to Santiago in May 2017. The hike from Lisbon to Porto was through a lot of industrial area, however, once in Porto I walked along the Atlantic Seaboard, mostly on boardwalk. If I were to do it again, I would start in Porto. There were not may Pilgrims on the Lisbon to Porto section, however, the Pope had just been in Fatima, and may have had a lot of Pilgrims there. Buen Camino.
 
We plan to start in Porto on June, 28th. Looking forward to it, will be checking your journey over here if you plan to post some updates!
 
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I’ve been reading the forum for many years now, and I think I’m right when I say that the “should we start in Lisbon” question has been the one route question that produces the most strenuous disagreement.

In 2014, Mario of @santaremhostel put together a short video of some of his guests. You can see it here.

Another thread that I think is helpful. And there are many more if you search “starting in Lisbon.”

The most recent “live” thread from @jungleboy is another one that I think is essential reading — especially since so much has changed since I first walked it in 2008! The number of albergues is continuing to increase, the route has been moved more and more off-road, but the one thing that remains the same is that the food is fresh, good, and cheap, and the people are inicredibly kind and helpful. The towns of Tomar, Coimbra, and Santarem have a lot to see and visit. And if you’re into ruins — the abandoned royal estate at Quinta da Cardiga and the Roman ruins at Condeixa are just icing on the cake!

Bottom line is that there are a lot of different opinions and obviously no “right” answer.

One obvious advantage of the Caminho from Lisboa that no one has mentioned is that it is about two weeks LONGER! 😁
Couldn’t agree with Peregrina2000 more. The food and people alone are worth the ‘extra’ two weeks from Lisboa. We walked in 2015 in May and did meet quite a few pilgrims from Lisboa to Porto. If you have the time I think you would enjoy the route from Lisboa. Karen and Dayton
 
I think it's just the first day out if Lisbon that's not great. Otherwise theres some amazing sites.
 
We walked in 2015 in May and did meet quite a few pilgrims from Lisboa
And I remember that we got together near the Cathedral for a sendoff, because I was in Lisbon for a few weeks! Not to derail the thread, @karenhypes, but I remember that your Camino Association had a relationship of support for the albergue in Monesterio on the Vdlp. Any updates on how the priest and the albergue are doing?
 
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We have flights planned to land in Lisbon on June 4th and start a camino from either Lisbon or Porto. Is there a forum topic yet on what things are like right now on the Portuguese Caminos? Specifically, are there other pilgrims. I need to decide where we should start from, and which routes to take. We are fully vaccinated and have verified that we are allowed to enter Portugal. One of the best aspects of my pervious Camino was the people we encountered, and I’d like to meet and see other pilgrims, safely of course!
The Portugal People are amazing, very Friendly and accommodating.
 
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@CaliHiker my website section, the Many Ways on the Camino Portugués has tons of photos where you can see the route and judge for yourself. I loved the walk out of Lisbon, through the former expo site, and along the river Tejo. Yes, there is lots of lonely, flat farmland before Santarém, but in the spring, it was alive with activity. As @peregrina2000 says, the historic sites are amazing and worth seeing! Buen Camino!
 
All of the replies on this thread are, for the most part, correct portrayals regarding starting from Lisbon. I am able to write that I would start from Lisbon a second time but I do not regret for a second having done it once. The more Portugal the merrier in my book and there is a certain satisfaction in not taking the path most traveled. But that might just be the contrarian in me lol. Bom Caminho, regardless. Whatever your choice, it will be a win-win.
 
I'll be one day ahead I think. Land on the 11th and start walking on the 12th. Bom caminho!
And you. Our paths might cross at some point. I land on the afternoon of the 12th and start walking that day.
 
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I'm thinking more and more that IF I do a Camino this year it will Lisbon to Santiago. Probably in September, which I imagine will be rather hot. I can deal with time alone, so long as I know that eventually I'll meet up with other pilgrims. I walked from Porto to Santiago on the Central route in 2019, and it wasn't a long enough walk.
 
I'm thinking more and more that IF I do a Camino this year it will Lisbon to Santiago. Probably in September, which I imagine will be rather hot. I can deal with time alone, so long as I know that eventually I'll meet up with other pilgrims. I walked from Porto to Santiago on the Central route in 2019, and it wasn't a long enough walk.
I walked from Porto too, @trecile, in May 2019.
If you do get a new opportunity to walk from Lisbon in September, I hope you will keep us on the forum abreast with updates along the way!
 
I'm thinking more and more that IF I do a Camino this year it will Lisbon to Santiago. Probably in September, which I imagine will be rather hot. I can deal with time alone, so long as I know.
We had 12 straight days of mid-30s+ Celsius (90+ Fahrenheit) and up to 39 (102) one day on the CP last September. That sounds awful but I didn’t mind it. The hottest time of the day in Portugal is about 4pm. We started before sunrise every morning and avoided the worst of the heat while walking.
 
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Both Lisbon and Porto have very good railway/tram infrastructure (commuter trains north-eastwards along the river adjacent to the Camino, from Lisbon, and trams northwards more or less paralleling the Camino from Porto). This can enable one, for the first few days, to walk onwards each day with just a light daypack, whilst still staying overnight in the same big city hotel or hostel.

Lisbon and Porto have a much wider and more interesting selection of lodging places, restaurants, laundromats, museums, tourist sights, etc., than do the smaller towns to their north.

One could on day one walk northwards for a full day with just a daypack, take the train/tram back to the city, stay overnight in your established hotel, explore the city on day two, on day three take train/tram back to your previous stopping point and walk for a full day again with light daypack, train/tram back to your by-now familiar big city hotel/hostel, etc. Repeat this two-day cycle until you run out of train/tram support, then revert to normal pilgrimage behaviour by walking onwards every day with your main pack (or have it sent forwards). This will help gradually develop hiking fitness for the first few days, without your main pack on your back, while also permitting you to explore those fascinating cities in depth, and also staying in the same familiar city hotel or hostel for the first few nights. It also eliminates the bother of finding lodgings enroute for those first few nights.

I wish I had done this myself but did not realize until afterwards how easy it would have been to do. For me the light bulb came on too late.
 
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I'm thinking more and more that IF I do a Camino this year it will Lisbon to Santiago. Probably in September, which I imagine will be rather hot. I can deal with time alone, so long as I know that eventually I'll meet up with other pilgrims. I walked from Porto to Santiago on the Central route in 2019, and it wasn't a long enough walk.
I wish you God's speed and avoidance of all the truck drivers on the first days out of Lisboa who spent more time on drinking beer/whatever in pit stops than driving on the highways that I had to walk on afterwards, after Lisboa. It was crazy. I'll never walk from Lisboa again. too dangerous.
 
We had 12 straight days of mid-30s+ Celsius (90+ Fahrenheit) and up to 39 (102) one day on the CP last September. That sounds awful but I didn’t mind it. The hottest time of the day in Portugal is about 4pm. We started before sunrise every morning and avoided the worst of the heat while walking.
@jungleboy, those temps are too hot for me! I'm glad you did not mind them and I think you have "youth" on your side.🙂 That said, you are sooo fortunate to be on a Camino at this time when most of us...wait!
 
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I walked from Lisbon in 2016 and loved it. To experience the true Portugal I feel it is important to start in Lisbon rather than Porto. Sure, there is road walking but the reality is that this is the experience on all Caminos.
The scenery after Porto is very similar to Spain and if this is what you want certainly start there but if you want to see the true Portugal start in Lisbon.
 
For those starting in Lisbon and hoping to meet like-minded folks to walk with, you might wish to be aware that (unless I am greatly in error) most Portuguese pilgrims will probably have Fátima as their destination, and have little or no interest in Santiago de Compostela.

This focus on Fátima as THE Portuguese pilgrimage destination was emphasized by my Lisbon-born professor of Portuguese, who politely made clear that Santiago de Compostela is not a focus of Portuguese society. Santiago is, she pointed out, in a different country with a different language and culture.

My experience aligned with her prediction. Between Lisbon and Fátima I encountered a small number of other northbound pilgrims. Upon mentioning Santiago de Compostela as my destination, I received blank looks of incomprehension and our conversations tended to go flat. Consistent with this, as I walked onwards north of Fátima, the Portuguese pilgrims I saw were heading south to Fátima.

In summary, I predict you will find two quite separate types of pilgrims.
 
I'm sorry this is late and your plans are very likely set by now. But I found Lisbon to Porto the best bit of Camino I have walked (Del Norte, Portuguese,Frances, Baztan, Francegina)

I understand the general opinion is that there is much road walking and that it is quiet. I found the arrows less frequent but it was a great walk. The first albergue at Alpriate was lovely. Then Villa France de Xira is a nice well resourced stop. Golega is a lovely little place, as was Santarem at Mario's. Tomar is beautiful, as is Coimbre. In fact I was advised to take days off in both and explore. It really is a lovely walk.

It's funny as we only met a few pilgrims but there was a chance to get to know everyone. All the albergues had beds, were good distances apart, and all were decent quality places. I loved Tomar. By the time I left Porto, it felt like the Frances route with crowds again, and I missed the less busy first section from Lisbon. I think about that walk from Lisbon to Porto many times and walk it over in my mind. But with so many more routes I will keep walking new Caminos before I return.

Regardless of where you start, the Camino Portuguese is lovely.
 
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I'm booked to walk Lisbon to Porto from June 12th so fingers crossed I enjoy it as much as you.
I'm sorry this is late and your plans are very likely set by now. But I found Lisbon to Porto the best bit of Camino I have walked (Del Norte, Portuguese,Frances, Baztan, Francegina)

I understand the general opinion is that there is much road walking and that it is quiet. I found the arrows less frequent but it was a great walk. The first albergue at Alpriate was lovely. Then Villa France de Xira is a nice well resourced stop. Golega is a lovely little place, as was Santarem at Mario's. Tomar is beautiful, as is Coimbre. In fact I was advised to take days off in both and explore. It really is a lovely walk.

It's funny as we only met a few pilgrims but there was a chance to get to know everyone. All the albergues had beds, were good distances apart, and all were decent quality places. I loved Tomar. By the time I left Porto, it felt like the Frances route with crowds again, and I missed the less busy first section from Lisbon. I think about that walk from Lisbon to Porto many times and walk it over in my mind. But with so many more routes I will keep walking new Caminos before I return.

Regardless of where you start, the Camino Portuguese is lovely.
 
You'll love it. The cobblestones are a pain, but the walk overall is great. And not strenuous. Bom voyage!
 
And I remember that we got together near the Cathedral for a sendoff, because I was in Lisbon for a few weeks! Not to derail the thread, @karenhypes, but I remember that your Camino Association had a relationship of support for the albergue in Monesterio on the Vdlp. Any updates on how the priest and the albergue are doing?
I will check and get back to you. Sorry for the delay. Karen
 
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And I remember that we got together near the Cathedral for a sendoff, because I was in Lisbon for a few weeks! Not to derail the thread, @karenhypes, but I remember that your Camino Association had a relationship of support for the albergue in Monesterio on the Vdlp. Any updates on how the priest and the albergue are doing?
Laurie, I spoke to a friend who communicates regularly with Father Miguel Angel who runs the albergue. Doing well with a few more pilgrims now. Attached is a photo of him painting the Albergue with funding from our group, Camino Pilgrims of London, Canada. We are a Chapter of the Canadian Company of Pilgrims. We continue to support his Albergue with funds and donations from any events we have. Thanks for asking. Hope all is well with you. Karen and Dayton
 

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I made the pilgrimage on the Camino in September 2020 from Lisbon via Fatima and Porto to Valenca. It was beautiful, especially from Lisbon to Porto the Camino was not overcrowded for the first time. Nevertheless, I met some pilgrims more often, but it wasn't too bad because there were only a few. I generally walk the Camino in the hope of meeting as few people as possible!
 
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Ich bin den Camino im September 2020 von Lissabon über Fatima und Porto bis Valenca gepilgert. Es war wunderschön, besonders von Lissabon bis Porto war der Camino das erste Mal nicht überfüllt. Einige Pilger habe ich dennoch häufiger getroffen, war aber nicht so schlimm, da es nur einige waren. Ich gehe den Camino generell immer in der Hoffnung auf möglichst wenige Menschen zu treffen!

Hi @PacoFrank welcome here. I see this is only your second post on this forum.

The common language here is English seeing the forum attracts people from all over the world.
I can read and write in German ( albeit only very basic stuff) and I guess other posters can put your posts through a translating machine/ app but do not hesitate to write in English.
I myself am not a native English speaker either but people here are very helpful and generous for those who have English as a second or third language.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I'm booked to walk Lisbon to Porto from June 12th so fingers crossed I enjoy it as much as you.
Postscript - I did love it! Very quiet - only saw 3 other pilgrims until Porto - a German lady, Roberto from Barcelona and Phil like me from the UK. Weather was pretty good and the Portuguese are such a nice bunch of people. Nice to have the first few days relatively flat. But my don't they love cities on steep hills - the 'winner' from my perspective was Coimbra.
 
Postscript - I did love it! Very quiet - only saw 3 other pilgrims until Porto - a German lady, Roberto from Barcelona and Phil like me from the UK. Weather was pretty good and the Portuguese are such a nice bunch of people. Nice to have the first few days relatively flat. But my don't they love cities on steep hills - the 'winner' from my perspective was Coimbra.
you should try the Via Francegina in Italy if you want to end every single day climbing the steepest hill possible. Glad you enjoyed it.
 
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